Community Brag Posts

When we first bought our house, one of the things that appealed to me was the walk in closet off the upstairs foyer. A walk in closet in a house from the 20′s? That’s unheard of! I know I could have designed this in a way that fit more, but I switch out my shoes seasonally, and I personally wanted slanted shelves. Come on, they’re so much prettier! Shopping List 1 – sheet of 1/2″ plywood (4 x 8′ sheet) 2- Primed 1×2′s @ 8′ 1 – 1/2″ Square Wood Dowel (like this) 2- Chair Rail @ 8′ (like this) Kilz Paint Primer Behr Semi Gloss White Paint Indoor Caulk Wood Putty 2″ Screws 2″ Nails Cuts Plywood- 5 pieces at 23″ wide and 12″ deep. Cut either of the 23″ end at a 45 degree angle. Plywood- 1 piece at 23″ wide and 12″ deep 1×2′s- 10 pieces at 12″ with ends cut at 45 degree angle. Then measure 1″ down from the top of the front piece, and cut it straight across. 1×2′s- 2 pieces at 12″ 1×2′s- 1 piece at 21.5″ Wooden Square Dowel- 3pcs at 23″ Chair Rail- 6 pieces at 23″ How To Build 1. I first figured out how far apart I wanted my shelves to be. I don’t have particularly tall shoes, so I had the first shelf 17″ off the ground in the front, and then they were set approximately 12″ apart after that. I located the studs, and screwed in the 1×2′s on the walls directly into the studs. 2. I then added the wooden dowels to the tops of 3 of the shelves. I didn’t even nail these down, just used wood glue and caulk. I set the wooden dowel 2.5″ from the back of the shelf. 3. After that I dry fit the actual shelf on top of the 1×2′s. This was probably the hardest part because of course this house doesn’t have even walls. Why would anyone ever need even walls? What a silly concept. I ended up having to sand a lot of the edges to make them fit. Caulking will help fill in those gaps! I then nailed in the shelves to the 1×2′s from above. 4. I slowly worked my way up the wall. When I got to the top shelf, I knew that I wanted a flat shelf to store boxes of shoes. I also added an extra 1×2″ to the back wall just in case I really decided to stack those shoes high. I followed the same process as I did for other 1×2′s, and screwed this into the stud. Closet 1x2 All Shelves 5. Then I used the chair rail and aligned it at the bottom of the 1×2″ and nailed it to the front of the shelf. It sticks up higher than the front of the shelf, which is great for catching shoes that tend to slip down. 6. After this I, I ended up using wood putty and caulk to fill any gaps. They work miracles on wood. 7. Finally I just painted everything and viola! Budget 1 – sheet of 1/2″ plywood (4 x 8′ sheet) – $28.97 2- Primed 1×2′s @ 8′- $5.98 1 – 1/2″ Square Wood Dowel - $1.75 Chair Rail - $16.00 Kilz Paint Primer- already owned Behr Semi Gloss White Paint- already owned Indoor Caulk- already owned Wood Putty- already owned Screws- already owned Nails- already owned TOTAL: $52.70

Platform (Pedestal) with Drawers for front-loader Washer & Dryer. Cheaper than buying the manufacturer's plastic pedestals and more fun to build anyway! The drawers are also much wider and deeper than the manufacturer's pedestals. We can usually fit about 3 full loads of laundry in each drawer. (That's 6 loads of laundry before we have to start folding!) It's a very easy and basic DIY project. I made a 2nd one for my brother using these plans (sans the drawers). I gotta say, the drawers are SO nice to have though. But you could just leave the front open, without drawers, and slide some laundry baskets underneath for an even quicker project. We've been using this platform now for over 2 years and there is still no squeaking or rattling. The washer & dryer haven't moved from the vibration even in the slightest. They're exactly where I placed them on the pedestal 2 years ago. There's also zero problem with the weight of the washer either...it really is a strong frame. (After finishing, I jumped up and down on it!) A couple small tweaks I would make doing it over is raising the drawers a 1/2" in. off the floor to tuck a rug underneath (as is, they sit about 1/8" in. off the floor). Also, I would cut out a couple of square holes in the back panel to access those socks that fall behind (I can't access the sides of my W&D in our particular laundry room). Lastly, I would have painted with a quality paint (I just used a few cans of white spray paint to be quicker). Step-by-Step Plans and Materials List (PDF) and many more photos found at the Blog Link below...I'm certainly no professional "Plans Writer" so email if you have questions! Happy DIY-ing! Estimated Cost: ~$200 (2x6 lumber, plywood, drawer trim, nails, screws, paint)

I used deck boards instead of 2x6 for the top and seats; this lightened the table overall while negating the need to sand and finish the boards.

I also used a cedar-tone treated board so staining wasn't necessary.

Kelly S.

THANK YOU Ana's your plans are a life saver and pocket book saver as well. You make your plans so easy to follow and use. For my project I used the cedar fence pickets and redwood 2" x 2" stakes that where on sale at the orange box store for "6 pack bundle" for only $.50 each. All I can say is SCORE! ;') Since we live in Arizona I treated all the lumber with a outdoor weather proofing wood finish (Cedar Color), lined all the interior beds (only the Wood Sides) with 4 mil plastic to keep the cedar from absorbing all the water and wired mesh on the bottom of the garden prior to adding dirt. This keeps my local rabbits/other creatures from eating my roots from the bottom up. And I have my dog from the top side. We are already a 100 degrees here and we needed to get our seedlings in a garden asap. Thanks Again for the Plans, Ana! I will be making more of these garden boxes to come.

Just finished this beauty, entirely made with 2x4, plans were modify to match our outdoor sofa and coffee table. I think our best looking project so far ;) Thank you for inspiring me to build !!!