You can build a simple storage bed to elevate a mattress and provide extra storage with these simple plans. Featuring six large, wide cubbies, perfect for fabric bins, toys, or even books and games. This bed has a cubby depth of 12".
6 – 1×12 Boards, 8′ Long (Most economical for stain grade is pine (like the PBTEEN stained bed, and also would work great for painting. You could also use sheets of MDF cut into 1x12s, but you would need to purchase two whole sheets of plywood and only use up 1 1/2 sheets)
1 – Sheet of 1/4″ Plywood cut into 15″ wide strips, 8′ long
6 – 1×2 Boards, 8′ Long (For paint grade, 1×2 Pine Furring Strips would work – and it’s what PBTEEN uses on their bed, for about $1.00 each)
5 – 1×3 Boards, 8′ Long (1×3 Pine Furring Strips are about $1.50 Each and would work perfect)
1 1/4″ Screws
1 1/4″ Nails (optional if you have a nailer handy)
2″ Nails (optional if you have a nailer handy)
CUT LIST FOR THE BOXES
6 – 1×12 @ 15″ (Cubby Sides)
3 – 1×12 @ 12 3/4″ (Cubby Dividers)
2 – 1×12 @ 54″ (End Cubby Top and Bottoms)
4 – 1×12 @ 62″ (Side Cubby Top and Bottoms)
CUT LISTS FOR THE TRIM
6 – 1×2 @ 12″ (Vertical Trim)
2 – 1×2 @ 55 1/2″ (End Top and Bottom Trim)
4 – 1×2 @ 63 1/2″ (Side Top and Bottom Trim)
CUT LIST FOR THE CENTER SUPPORT
2 – 1×3 @ 63 1/2″ (Cleats)
11 – 1×3 @ 30 1/2″ (Slats)
So if you read my blog long enough, you already know that to get a square project, you gotta work on a square surface with square boards. And you also need to check for square after each step. Predrill and countersink your screws. If you are working with MDF, use drywall screws and make sure you drill a pilot hole the entire length of your screw hole to keep your MDF from blowing apart. Be safe, have fun!
Put the back on the end cubby with nails and glue. Don't forget to nail into the center partition as well.
For both backs: You can have the lumber store “rip” your 1/4″ plywood into 15″ wide strips so they are easier to manage, can be hauled in a car, and all you have to do is make a single chop. Have the plywood ripped into 3 – 15″ wide x 8′ long strips. Then cut your plywood for the backs of the end and two for the side cubbies. Use 1 1/4″ nails and glue to fasten in place.
Begin by trimming the tops and bottoms out with the longer boards, as shown above. All outside edges should be flush. Then add your side trim, keeping outside edges flush. Use the 2″ nails if you have a nailer handy. And glue. (If you are staining, it is a good idea to use nails on the face frame so that the holes are super easy to hide. You could also use a Kreg Jig™ to build the face frame, then attach the frame from the undersides)
Lay the slats on top of the cleats, as shown above. Screw in place. Don’t use glue so dissemblance will be a cinch. Also screw the end cubby to the side cubbies ( a couple of blots with washers and nuts would be your best option to keep everything together over time (and make dissemblance a cinch)