Big Ur Farm Table and Bench
Help us get rid of spam!
Big Ur Farm Table and Bench
A substantial leg modern version of the Farmhouse Table.
Today I had a photo shoot for Fresh Home Magazine (make sure you get signed up for your free issue so you'll get to read the article when it publishes) and the set just needed something . . . more than a honeysuckle pink bench . . . . it needed a farm table. And you know me, if I get a chance to build a farm table, I'm building it!
It just so happens that I was in The Home Depot last week and spotted these gorgeous 4x4 posts, just $12 for a 10' long post. Some quick math 30" x 4 legs = 10 feet, and I was tracking down an orange apron and begging the associate to cut the post down into exactly 29 7/8" pieces (saw blade takes up the other 1/8"). The associate looked at me like, of course, lady, we do this every day, and made perfect cuts for me.
So I need a farm table, had 4 - 29 7/8" long 4x4 posts . . . you take a guess. What Farm Table should we build?
Many of our readers have been requesting plans for a table inspired by Crate and Barrel's Big Sur Collection. This is what they would call a win-win-win situation.
Me especially wins :) I'm having a hard time NOT moving this table into my teeny dining space or moving my computer and other office mess on top of it.
We had scrap 2x4s leftover (yes, can you believe these are the scrap pieces?) so I used them as a tabletop - thus the breadboard on the end. Aren't those 4x4s beautiful? I just sanded the whole table and haven't decided on a finish yet. For the photo shoot, au natural was best. What do you suggest?
The plans here will show you how to build a 65" x 35" x 30" dining table, but I'll also give measurements for the bench in this post. I can't show you more of the table just yet because it's part of the photo shoot, but you get the idea.
The beauty of this table is highly dependent on your access to high quality 4x4 posts. If you can't find beautiful 4x4 posts at Lowes or Home Depot or Menards, try a specialty hardwood dealer. Also, for those of you excited about spring being just around the corner, you could use cedar 4x4s and make this an outdoor table. For water drainage, I suggest spacing the tabletop boards about 1/4" apart, and also cedar boards for the tabletop and supports.
1- 10′ long 4×4 Post, cut into 29 7/8″ pieces
10 – 2×4, 8 foot or stud length
4 – 2×2 @ 8 foot long
1 – 2×3 @ 6 foot long
2 1/2″ Screws
Wood Glue and Finishing Supplies
4 – 4×4 Post @ 29 7/8″ (Legs)
6 – 2×2 @ 30″ (Joists)
8 – 2×4 @ 65″ (Tabletop Boards)
2 – 2×4 @ 58″ (Tabletop Side Boards)
2 – 2×3 @ 28″ (End Joists – you could use 2x2s here if you cannot find 2x3s)
2 – 2×2 @ 58″ (Side Aprons)
Bench mods as shown above.
For those of you with a Kreg Jig™, you will want to build your tabletop first (all 10 tabletop boards) with a Kreg Jig™ and then add the supports. For those of you without a Kreg Jig™, the pocket holes will make your joints between the tabletop boards smooth and tight (like mine in the photo) but if you just can’t afford one, you can screw through the supports into the underside of the tabletop boards, minimizing the gaps between the tabletop boards as you go. Use 2 1/2″ screws and glue. For those of you looking for that super smooth tabletop – you could run your 2x4s through a table saw and trim off any rounded edges first but beware that this will change the dimensions of your support boards. I did not run mine through a tablesaw, and think that’s what a farm table is all about – being a little rustic and obviously made of real boards. Predrill all holes.
Add the top ends as shown above. Minimize the gap between the tabletop boards and predrill and screw down with 2 1/2″ screws and glue.
Now add the side aprons by screwing to both the tabletop end boards and the joists. Use glue and 2 1/2″ screws. Predrill all holes.
I used pocket holes to attach the legs, but you can accomplish the same thing with a countersink bit. Just carefully predrill a hole with the countersink bit at an angle from the underside of the table into each of the legs. Then attach the legs with screws and glue as shown above. The more different directions that you can put screws into the legs, the less likely the leg will wobble in the future. Don’t forget the glue.
There should be no exposed holes visible on the outside of the table. I simply sanded my table with 120 grit sandpaper and vacuumed clean. Make sure you stain or seal your table to keep the wood from accepting food or other unwanted stains.