Build your own sawhorse storage leg desk - free plans from ANA-WHITE.com

Author Notes: 

Hi everyone!

Well, I think this one is my favorite.

If you are new here or haven't been following along, we created a modular desk system that consists of a desktop with storage -

And then added the simple 2x4 trestle base plans -

I've got a few more base options on the way for your building pleasure and use, so you can get the perfect study desk.

But I gotta say - this is the one I love the most.

It's practical, stylish, simple and inexpensive to build.  

And it stores an impressive amout of stuff!!!

The tapered shelves are perfect for storing different sized books, baskets and craft supplies too.

The plans for the bases follow.  You can find the easy to make desktop here.

Please share if you build - really makes my day!!!

May your weekend involve sawdust.

XO Ana + Family

Shopping List: 

1 - 24" x 48" sheet of 1/2" thick plywood
6- 2x2 @ 8 feet long

Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
Table Sawor Circular Saw with Kreg Rip Cut
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions: 
Dimensions shown above
Cut List: 

8 - 2x2 @ 26-5/8" with both ends cut at 5 degrees off square, ends ARE parallel, long point to short point measurement
4 - 2x2 @ 7-1/4" with both ends cut at 5 degrees off square, ends are NOT parallel, long point to long point measurement
4 - 2x2 @ 9-1/4" with both ends cut at 5 degrees off square, ends are NOT parallel, long point to long point measurement
4 - 2x2 @ 11-1/4" with both ends cut at 5 degrees off square, ends are NOT parallel, long point to long point measurement
8 - 2x2 @ 20"
2 - 1/2" plywood @ 24" x 8-3/4"
2 - 1/2" plywood @ 24" x 10-3/4"

Step 1: 

Build four of the leg sets with your Kreg Jig set for 1-1/2" pocket holes and attach with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws. Use glue. One pocket hole per joint should be enough.

Once you build one, use it as a pattern for laying out the remaining three.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Attach leg sets together to create the sawhorse frame.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Use the circular saw with Kreg Rip Cut or a table saw to cut the shelving pieces. Attach on top of 2x2s with glue and 1-1/4" nails or screws.

Step 4 Instructions: 

From inside the desktop, attach to the 2x2 tops. Use 1-1/4" screws, at least 8 screws total.

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type: 
Skill Level: 
Style: 

Free plans for pretty nightstand inspired by Ballard Designs Isabella Nightstand. Plans by ANA-WHITE.com

Author Notes: 

Wow.

Can you believe this beautiful nightstand is DIY - even the pretty moulding pieces are DIY?

My friend Jen Woodhouse from The House of Wood wanted to build nightstands for her friend, so she asked me to team up with her for plans.  Jen's friend Emily loved these nightstands, but the curved moulding was not something that we could easily source or purchase on a DIY budget.  So Jen actually cut all of those moulding pieces with a scroll saw!

What a huge difference the moulding made - this nightstand is otherwise just a box!

The turned legs don't hurt either!

I love all the storage!

And the perfectly petite drawer - only big enough for a magazine or book or a phone. 

Here's from Jen -

My friend Emily and her husband recently bought their first house and I was excited to help her furnish it. First on the list was bedroom furniture so I made these nightstands for her (matching dresser plans coming soon!). When we couldn't find an affordable option for the curved panel moulding, Ana suggested that I make them from scratch. I used a scroll saw for this (my first time!) and it was pretty awesome - I love the precision of this tool.
 
 
The extra detail was a little more work, but totally worth it. Emily loves her new nightstands! Thank you Ana for working with me on this project!

Thanks Jen!

 Jen's been kind enough to put together a post on her building experience, complete with lots more photos and buidling tips and tricks.  Please take a second to check out Jen's building post here.  

And of course, plans follow!  Enjoy!

Ana

 

PS - We'd love it if you shared or pinned this project!!!

Shopping List: 

1/2 sheet of 3/4" plywood
1/4 sheet of 1/4" plywood
2 - 1x2x6'
1 - 20-3/4" of 1x3
4 Osborne Wood turned legs
Iron-On Veneer edging
3/4" x 3/4" cove moulding
moulding for the drawer face
3/4" brad nails
1 set of 14" drawer slides
4 knobs
4 hinges
Hanger bolts/tee nuts or lag screws
4 turned feet, 6" long (we got ours from <a href="http://www.osbornewood.com/cabinet-and-furniture-feet.aspx" target="_blank">Osborne Wood</a>

Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
Table Sawor Circular Saw with Kreg Rip Cut
Iron for Attaching Edge Banding
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions: 
Dimensions shown above
Cut List: 

Cut List:
3 - 3/4" plywood @ 22-1/2" x 17-1/4" (bottom &amp; sides)
3 - 1x2 @ 21" (carcass supports)
1 - 3/4" plywood @ 24" x 18" (top)
2 - 3/4" x 3/4" cove moulding @ 24" (top and bottom trim)
4 - 3/4" x 3/4" cove moulding @ 18" (top and bottom trim)
2 - 3/4" plywood @ 17-1/4" x 10-3/8" (doors)
4 - 1/2" x 1/4" moulding @ 14-3/4" (trim)
6 - 1/2" x 1/4" moulding @ 10-1/4" (trim)
4 - 1/2" x 1/4" moulding @ 6-3/4" (trim)
12 - curved moulding (cut out of 1/4" plywood - see diagram)
1 - 1/4" plywood @ 23-1/4" x 22-1/2" (back)
1 - 3/4" plywood @ 21" x 16-1/2" (optional shelf)

Drawer:
2 - 1x2 @ 18-1/2" (drawer front/back)
2 - 1x2 @ 14" (drawer sides)
1 - 1/4" plywood @ 20" x 14" (drawer bottom)
1 - 1x3 @ 20-3/4" (drawer face)
2 - moulding @ 20-3/4" (drawer face trim)
2 - moulding @ 2-1/2" (drawer face trim)

Step 1: 

If it's easier (depending on your legs and how they attach) you may want to attach the legs now.

Step 2 Instructions: 

You'll want to edge band the front edges of the side panels. If you are a perfectionist, you'll want to take about an 1/8" off the front edge (you'll need a tablesaw) to allow for edgebanding (depending on thickness of your edgebanding). If you are painting, you can also fill the front edges of the plywood with wood filler, sand and paint.

Drill 3/4" pocket holes facing upward for attaching the top in later steps on the insides.

Attach side panels to base with 3/4" pocket holes along bottom inside edge with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Attach top supports at front and back - also drill 3/4" pocket holes facing upward for attaching the top in next step.

Step 4 Instructions: 

Attach top to sides and top trim with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 5 Instructions: 

Apply trim around top and bottom plywood edges, nailing on with brad nails (18 or 23 guage is recommended, 3/4" long). Miter corners.

Step 6 Instructions: 

Build the drawer to fit your drawer slides and openings - the drawer shown is for drawer slides that require 1/2" clearance on each side (total of 1" clearance) and if your opening is true to width. Place pocket holes on outsides - they will be hidden by drawer face. Attach 1/4" plywood to bottom with nails (3/4") and glue.

Step 7 Instructions: 

Install drawer 3/4" inset, and place drawer face on top and nail on in a few places (avoid areas where you will add hardware), leaving 1/8" gap to top and sides. Remove drawer and add a few 1-1/4" screws from back side.

Step 8 Instructions: 

Attach drawer bottom trim with 1/8" gap above, so all around the drawer is 1/8" gaps. Use 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws to attach.

Step 9 Instructions: 

Cut doors out of 3/4" plywood and attach with hinges.

Step 10 Instructions: 

Create a pattern for the moulding and cut out with a scroll saw.

Step 11: 

Attach moulding to drawer faces with 3/4" brad nails and glue.

Step 12: 

Attach back plywood with 3/4" brad nails and glue.

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type: 
Estimated Cost: 
Skill Level: 
Style: 

DIY industrial style adjustable height bar stools - plans by Ana-White.com

Author Notes: 

Hi everyone!!!

Last summer, Toliy (our favorite design college student) worked with me to create this super cool little adjustable height stool -

We were pretty bummed when Toliy had to head back to college in the fall, never getting enough time to make matching bar stools.

So when Toliy texted this Christmas break, saying he was back home for a few days and wanted to work on those stools, I said, uh, I'll take three!!!

We ended up adding the bottom side pieces to act as a foot rest -

I love how they turned out!

We used scrap wood (including 3/4" construction grade plywood) and 2x2s ripped from 2x4 scraps (you can use off the shelf 2x2s) to make these stools.

We stained the stools using Rustoleum Dark Walnut -

Really love the color!

One thing that complicated this build was we knew these stools would get a ton of use, and since they are significantly higher than the original stools, didn't want to just use a floor flange.  So we welded 3/4" nuts to 1/8" thick metal plates.  If you don't have a welder, call your welding shop and drop a few nuts off and have them weld to scrap metal plates - it will probably be cheaper than buying flanges anyways (those can get expensive).

We love these stools and how they turned out, but they are not a beginner project. Please don't attempt as a first project.

Plans follow - enjoy!

XO Ana + Crew

 

Shopping List: 

2 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long 3/4" plywood scraps for the top plate

12" round or 2x12 for the seat

18" - 5/8" all thread

5/8" flange or top plate (we diyed ours with scrap metal and nuts welded together)

4 - 5/8" nuts and washers

Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions: 
Dimensions shown above
Cut List: 

2 - 2x2 @ 12-1/2" - both ends are cut at 10 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel, longest point to longest point measurement
1 - 3/4" plywood @ 8-1/2" x 8-1/2"
4 - 2x2 @ 23-1/2" - both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, long point to short point measurement, ends ARE parallel
4 - 2x2 @ 9-5/8" - both ends cut at 45 degrees, ends NOT parallel, longest point to longest point measurement
1 - 12" round (we cut ours from 1x12s and 3/4" plywood scraps glued together to get the 1-1/2" thickness - these are also available off the shelf

Cutting Instructions: 
Step 1: 

Cut the 3/4" plywood to an 8-1/2" x 8-1/2" square, then cut corners off at 45 degrees.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Set a circular saw blade to 3/4" depth and notch out the 2x2 cross supports as shown above, cutting the long side on one and the short side on the other.

Glue (don't screw or nail) the two pieces together.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Build the stool using either 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws or countersinking wood screws (2-1/2" long would work).

Step 4 Instructions: 

Attach the outer foot rest with 2-1/2" screws countersunk from outside. You'll only need one screw per joint. Use glue.

Step 5 Instructions: 

Drill holes in the top plate and the center X to match your all-thread. Secure all thread to seat bottom and stool using washers and nuts.

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Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Finish Used: 
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