Adjustable Height Wood and Metal Stool

DIY Adjustable height stool made of hardware store parts and 2x2s.  Free plans from ana-white.com

Author Notes: 

Hello Awesomest DIY Folks Ever, and Happy Monday!

Toliy (who's been sorta interning with me this summer) will be working with us for another couple of weeks before he heads back to college, and he's been wanting to make an adjustable height stool to match the sawhorse desk we made a while back.

To refresh - this sawhorse desk goes from desk -

To a tallish coffee table by just adjusting bolts.  You can find the plans here.  Yup, 2x4s and all-thread.

Now for a stool to match ...

After quite a few tweaks and trips to the hardware store ...

I think we finally nailed bolted it!

It ended up being much simpler than we had thought.  We just attached a floor flange to the underside of the seat (I suggest a more comfortable seat if you plan on sitting on this stool for long periods of time), and then screwed a piece of all-thread into that flange.

Then made a base out of 2x2s, and drilled holes in it to hold the all-thread,

And then just used bolts and washers to secure the all-thread to the stool at the top and bottom of the cross supports.

Once we got this stool figured out, it's acutally pretty easy to build!  

Enjoy the plans following!

Ana

 

PS- I'd love to make a taller stool too!  If you'd like to see a taller stool, let me know in the comments.

Shopping List: 

1 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long

1 - piece of scrap plywood 6" x 6"

1 - 2x12 or 1x12 cut into a round circle (you can also buy a plywood round for a stool top at most hardware stores)

1 - 3/4" All-Thread 16" long (if you can't find 16" all-thead, you can cut it down easily with a jigsaw or handsaw with a blade designed to cut metal)

1 - 3/4" Floor Flange to match all thread (also recommend pipe thread tape for securing all-thread into the flange)

2 - bolts and washers to match the all-thread

2-1/2" pocket hole screws

3" screws or lag bolts (heads will be visible) for attaching cross supports to the legs

Tools: 
measuring tape
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
jigsaw
compound miter saw
sander
countersink drill bit
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions: 
Adjusts between seat and counter-height stool heights.
Cut List: 

1 - 3/4" thick plywood, 6" x 6"

4 - 2x2 @ 15-1/2" long, long point to short point, both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, parallel to each other

4 - 2x2 @ 8-3/8" long, long point to long point, both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel to each other

Step 1: 

The best way we found to attach the legs to the base is with 1-1/2" pocket holes from underside, using 2-1/2" pocket hole screws and glue.

Take a second to confirm the outside to outside measurement of the legs matches the diagram.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Now this is the harder part of making this stool.  There are easier ways but we felt that this was the right balance between difficulty and getting a nice looking project in the end.

Use either a tablesaw or circular saw to notch out the cross support pieces (note that you notch one on top and one on bottom), 3/4" deep.  You can do this by making multiple cuts with saw blade set at 3/4"  in the area to notch out, and then remove any excess material with a chisel.

Test the pieces to make sure they fit together.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Attach the cross supports to the legs.  Do not attach the actual cross supports to each other, as a bolt will need to pass through the center of them.

Step 4 Instructions: 

Attach the floor flange to the center of the seat (we used a scrap 2x12 cut with a jigsaw) and thread the all-thread into the flange.

Step 5 Instructions: 

Drill holes in the base just big enough to allow the all-thread to pass through.  Place seat with all-thread into base, with a nut and washer on each side of the base.  Tighten nuts to secure.

Step 6 Instructions: 

Turn the seat to adjust up or down.  NOTE: Once you have the seat where you want it, make sure the nuts are still tight.

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type: 
Skill Level: 

Industrial Style Wood Slat Closet System with Galvanized Pipes

DIY wood closet - free plans!  From ana-white.com

Author Notes: 

So I got a baby, a second grader, a blog, a husband out moose hunting (you get it, what Mom isn't this busy?) and piles of laundry and no where to put it since we moved

I need a closet.  And I need it fast.  And it has to be inexpensive, sturdy, but it's gotta look pretty too.  Oh, and I need to make it before my sister leaves the next day, so she can help me with kids.  

Yeah, I know.  I'm a picky client!

After building this garage storage unit in a few hours - with kids - 

I thought, why not a master closet with the same building style (inspired by tradditional Swedish wood shelving) but use 1x4s for the legs and shelves for more refinement, stain the boards, and use industrial pipes for closet rods?

It all seemed almost too simple, and I almost didn't build this project.  Almost wrote it off as too plain.

But I talked myself into it, reasoning that even if it did turn out too plain, too IKEA, there's gotta be at least one person out there that would appreciate an inexpensive and easy to build closet - even if it doesn't look all that great.

So I gave simple a chance.

And simple suprised the heck out of me.

 

I couldn't be more pleased with how this closet turned out.  I feel like I am in an expensive clothing store when I get dressed, just without the designer clothes and shoes.  Although, the jeans are authentically distressed with real paint splatters wink .  

And the best part?  I was able to build it in a few hours, and all for about $200!

  • Lumber (all new) - $120
  • Pipes for closet rods - $60
  • Stain and screws - $20

For the closet rods, I used iron pipes, available at most any hardware store -

I used all 3/4" fittings.  Per each rod, I purchased:

  • (1) 36" pipe
  • (2) Ts
  • (4) 8" nipples
  • (4) end caps

This was definitely the most expensive part, but the splurge was absolutely worth it!  

Costs could be cut down by using a smaller pipe (1/2") or having less individual rods, and using longer pipes as the cost is in all the fittings.

But one thing to consider is the shelves above and below the pipes shouldn't span more than about 3 feet or they will start to sag, so I opted to make my closet rods using 36" pipes.

The plans are ridiculously simple, check them out below.  You just make those shelf supports (plan for a shelf support every 3 feet or so), attach the closet rods, and then place the shelving on top.

To make finishing easier I just stained all my boards first, using Rustoleum Early American, and then touched up after installation.  These photos show the stain a little lighter than the closet is in real life.

Enjoy the plans following!

 

XO Ana + Family

 

PS - My sister not only helped with kids, she also made a video of this project plan too!  Check it out -

PSS - To make closet building even easier, my friends at Ryobi are giving away THIS SAW to one of you!!!  

Just click here to sign in or sign up!  That's it!

 

PSSS - Love this?  Please pin!

 

 

 

Shopping List: 

PER LEG SUPPORT (You'll need at least two leg supports, and additional leg supports every 3 feet or so)

2 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long (for the legs)

64" of 2x4s (for the shelf supports)

 

SHELVES

4 - 1x4 @ length of closet PER SHELF 

Additional 1x4s for smaller shelves if using

 

I stained all of my boards first, before cutting.  I let them dry overnight.  After completing the project, I touched up unstained areas (cut ends).

1 1/2 inch screws
2 1/2 inch screws
wood glue
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
circular saw
sander
countersink drill bit
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions: 
This closet can be customized to any length. Leg supports should be placed about every 3 feet to avoid shelf sagging. Note that this closet is most likely too tall to fit inside doorways and will need to be assembled in the closet (after you make the leg supports). If your closet is really tight, you may wish to shorten the entire closet by a few inches (measure you doorways).
Cut List: 

PER LEG SUPPORT

4 - 2x4 @ 15-1/2" (shelf supports - make sure you measure your pipes first to figure how deep the closet needs to be to work with the iron pipe closet rods)

2 - 1x4 @ 81-1/2" (legs - you may wish to shorten these to pass through doorways)

SHELVES

Per each shelf - 4 - 1x4s cut to length of closet

SMALLER SHELVES

2 - 2x4 @ 15-1/2"

4 - 1x4 cut to width of smaller shelf

 

Step 1: 

 

Build leg supports using 2-1/2" self tapping screws and wood glue.  

Since I was using the metal pipe closet rods, I installed them at this step.

Step 2 Instructions: 

I cut all my shelving to the length of the closet.  Then I threaded two shelving boards on bottom shelf and two on second to top shelf.  

I screwed the shelving boards to the outside leg supports, flush to the inside of the legs (will come back and add the middle shelving boards).  Once the two outside leg supports were screwed down, I used a level to place the remaining two legs, with the closet rod determining where the legs should go.

Then I added the remaining shelving boards, screwing those down.  Attach the outer shelving boards first, then evenly space the middle two shelving boards.  I used 1-1/2" screws here.  Once everything was tied in, it was pretty secure, but just for added security, I also screwed the shelving unit to the walls to prevent racking or forward tipping.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Finally I simply measured the distance between the middle two legs, cut a shelving boards and more 2x4 shelf supports, and added two additional shelves.

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type: 
Room: 
Skill Level: 

Loft Bed as seen on HGTV Saving Alaska

Built in loft bed plans from Ana-White.com featured on HGTV Saving Alaska

Author Notes: 

Well, we still haven't heard back yet from HGTV ....   

And going through this plan is making me hopeful all over again - it was so much fun getting to work with real families, to make their home better!  

We've already shared the desk system plans with you (you can find the CPU base plans here and the bookshelf base plans here),

And today, I'm so excited to finally get to share the loft bed plans with you!

Now this should have been the easiest loft bed ever.  And it will be for you too.

Unless you live in a super insulated home in Alaska.

To make this bed easy to build, I decided to just build a mini floor inside the room (see plans following), using the studs in the walls as supports for the loft bed.

What they didn't show in the episode (and we didn't know until we started building) is the walls in this house aren't standard.  On the inside of the home, over the standard framed walls, an additional layer of 2x boards was run horizontally every 32", and then an additional layer of foam insulation placed between the horizontal boards.

That meant to tie the loft bed directly into the horizontal studs, we'd have to hang the bed at 32" (too low) or 64" (too high by the time we added the framing).  We needed the bed to be hung lower to give enough headroom.

We almost scrapped the loft bed idea ..... but at the last minute, I came up with a plan to use plywood to frame the walls around the loft bed out, making it look like we meant to wrap the walls in plywood.  You know, to protect the walls around the bed and add style points.  Not because I needed to cheat the bed down somehow  wink

Then it got easy.  We just used hangers to hang the loft bed floor joists.  Slid boards into those, topped it with 1x6s,

 

Trimmed the front out and gave it a good sanding and sealed it with clear coat,

 

And suprised ourselves at how we actually liked the bed better with the plywood surround!  

You know what they say, right?  When life gives you super insulated walls with horizontal studs, well, you make a modern loft bed!

You'll find the plans following for this project!  Enjoy!

XO Ana + Crew

NOTE: Guardrail is recommended for this bed.  

 

 

 

Shopping List: 

We used 2x4s to span about 8 feet.  For longer spans, you may wish to use 2x6s for additional support.

2 Joist Hangers per Stud and screws for hanging joist hangers

Screws long enough to attach 2x4s to studs in the wall (we used 4" screws)

1-1/4" finish nails

wood glue

Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
compound miter saw
nailer
countersink drill bit
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Can be built to any size. Standard twin mattress is 75x39 - recommend at least 48" width or a guardrail or both if needed.
Cut List: 

2 - 2x4 @ desired width of bed MINUS 3/4" (wall cleats)

Studs are length of bed MINUS 3"

1x6 decking boards are cut same length as wall cleats

1x6 front trim is full width of front of bed (cut to fit)

Cutting Instructions: 
Step 1: 

Hang wall cleats securely to studs in walls, to as many studs as possible, using 2 screws per stud.  

Step 2 Instructions: 

Use joist hangers to hang the studs to the cleats. 

For added support, we also attached the back 2x4 to studs in the wall.

Step 3 Instructions: 

1x6 decking was then layed on top of the framing, and nailed down with 1-1/4" finish nails and glue.

Step 4 Instructions: 

The front was then trimmed out with a 1x6 board.  We left a slight lip to the top to prevent items from rolling off bed.

 

A guardrail is also recommended to prevent injury.

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Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Finish Used: 
Project Type: 
Room: 
Skill Level: 

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