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posted by Ana White

DIY trundle drawers for under a bench by ana-white.com

Under Bench Trundle Drawers - Mudroom

Handmade from this plan >>

Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!

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About Project

Author Notes: 

Thank you so much for all the positiveness surrounding one of our latest projects - a new mudroom for Grandma!  We are glad you loved it as much as we all do too!  

We've had a few request to break the drawers down into plans, to make them even easier to build. 

And since I'm definitely hoping you build this mudroom too, happy to do that for you today!

Drawer plans follow!  

XO Ana + Family

PS - Check out the wall hook organizer shelf plans here, and the bench tutorial here, and the drawer post here.

Dimensions

Dimensions: 
Under Bench Trundle Drawers - Mudroom
Dimensions: 
I am showing the dimensions I used, but alter to fit the space under your bench.

Materials and Tools

Shopping List: 

1x8s for the drawer box is what I used, but you could also use 1x6 or 3/4" plywood etc
1/4" plywood for bottom
4 caster wheels (I used 1" tall ones)
1x3s and 1/2" plywood for the drawer face
1-1/4" pocket hole screws to build drawer and drawer face
1-1/4" nails and screws for attaching drawer face
2 handles or knobs

Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
circular saw
nailer

Cut List

Cut List: 

Cut to fit your dimensions

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Step 1

Under Bench Trundle Drawers - Mudroom

The first step is to do a little planning. I measured the space under my bench, and figured out how big to make my drawers. I recommend 1 or 2 drawers, so there's no middle drawer(s). With 1 or 2 drawers, the drawers can follow the wall as they are wheeled in and out.

If you are working between walls, measure between walls at front and back - walls are notoriously not square, especially basement walls.

Get a depth and height measurement too so you can figure how deep the drawers should be, what size material to make the drawer sides out of, and then how big to make the drawer face.

I made my drawers 1/2" smaller than the space to allow a little wiggle room. Consider the height of the caster wheels when you determine how tall the drawer boxes are (I used 1x8s for a 12" high space).

Through this plan, I'll be sharing my drawer dimensions, but alter to fit your needs.

Step 2

Under Bench Trundle Drawers - Mudroom

Once you have your drawer size figured, simply build a box out of 1x boards. I used pocket holes, but you could also countersink screws or nail and glue.

Step 3

Under Bench Trundle Drawers - Mudroom

Then add a bottom to the box with nails and glue. For larger drawers, 1/2" or 3/4" plywood might be better. And for especially heavy loads, you may consider adding a 5th center caster wheel for additional support.

Step 4

Under Bench Trundle Drawers - Mudroom

Attach the caster wheels to the base of the drawers. I used these caster wheels.

Step 5

Under Bench Trundle Drawers - Mudroom

I used this tutorial to build the drawer faces - quick and easy! Then with the drawers positioned in place, I attached the drawer faces first from the outside with a couple of finish nails, and then strengthened things up by adding a few screws hidden from the inside of the drawer box.

You can check out more details on how I did this here.

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
posted by Ana White

Free plans to DIY a kitchen cabinet open end shelf by Ana-White.com

Open Shelf End Wall Cabinet

Handmade from this plan >>

Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!

No brag posts have been found yet. Have you built this project? Please help other by submitting brag posts.

About Project

Author Notes: 

Hello DIY Friends! 

We are so close to being done with the second Momplex kitchen!  But not quite, so just sneak peeks today :)

One of my favorite parts of this kitchen (as opposed to the first Momplex kitchen) is the open end shelf we made above the bar area.  

We did this for two reasons:

We built a bar, so access to a cabinet above would have been limited.  But it would have looked unbalanced to end the kitchen without the open end cabinet.

And we built an open wall cabinet on the other end of the wall cabinets.  The kitchen is more balanced with the two open wall cabinets on each end.

This is also the easiest cabinet to build  - you'll be amazed at how easy it is to add open end wall cabinets to your kitchen!

Enjoy the plans following!

XO Ana + Family

Dimensions

Dimensions: 
Open Shelf End Wall Cabinet
Dimensions: 
Dimensions shown above - alter to fit your cabinets!!!

Materials and Tools

Shopping List: 

1 - 1x12 @ 30" long or 3/4" plywood @ 11-1/4" x 30" (MATCH YOUR CABINETS!!!)
1 - 1x8 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x2 @ 4 feet long
1-1/4" nails or staples
Screws for hanging to adjacent cabinet and studs in wall

For painted cabinets, use poplar
For stained cabinets, choose a wood species to match your cabinets or plywood (maple, oak, alder etc)

Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
circular saw
nailer
staple gun

Cut List

Cut List: 

1 - 1x12 @ 30" or 3/4" plywood @ 30" x 11-1/4" (MATCH YOUR CABINETS SIDES!!!)
1- 1x8 @ 30"
4 - 1x8 @ 10-1/2" (ADJUST TO FIT!!)
2 - 1x2 @ 7-1/4" (or width of 1x8)
2 - 1x2 @ 9-3/4" (ADJUST TO FIT!!)

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Step 1

Open Shelf End Wall Cabinet

We stapled this entire cabinet together because we did not want any pocket holes showing. The cabinet is plenty sturdy. Here we used glue and 1-1/4" staples.

The side panel should match your other cabinets, including a face frame and the back if your other cabinets have one. Also check the height of your existing cabinets - 30" is standard.

IMPORTANT: Make sure you assemble your cabinet in the correct configuration for installation - As shown, we built a cabinet that is open to the left.

Step 2

Open Shelf End Wall Cabinet

Build the top and bottom shelves first with staples or nails and glue. We used 1-1/4" staples here.

Step 3

Open Shelf End Wall Cabinet

Then we glued and attached the top and bottom shelves to the backs.

Step 4

Open Shelf End Wall Cabinet

Then we added the remaining two shelves.

We hung the cabinet by attaching it to both the neighboring cabinet and studs in the wall. If no studs, use a drywall anchoring system.

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
posted by Ana White

DIY Kitchen wall cabinet plans by ana-white.com

Open Wall Cabinet - 36" Wide x 30" Tall

Handmade from this plan >>

Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!

No brag posts have been found yet. Have you built this project? Please help other by submitting brag posts.

About Project

Author Notes: 

It took great thought, time and careful planning to build this here cabinet.

Yes, we sure did spend hours considering exactly how "off" we should build the face frame from the carcass.  Not only is the carcass several inches too tall, the face frame is an extra inch wide.  

Many hours.  Of careful planning.

To get this cabinet built just right.

And we are so proud of it!

Here's why.  In the corner of this kitchen, there is a return air duct smack dab where the top of the kitchen cabinet would go.  

We'd have to move the air duct to fit a cabinet in there that matched the rest of the cabinets.

Or we'd have to build a wonky cabinet around the air duct.

If it's a choice of doing drywall or making sawdust, well, that's a no brainer.

We'll take the sawdust.

So we decided to make the carcass of the cabinet as tall as the ceiling height to allow the air duct to fit inside the cabinet, BUT keep the face frame the same height as the neighboring cabinets for consistency.  Since this cabinet is in a corner, we also used a 1x3 at the left edge to tie into the neighboring cabinet at 90 degrees.

We cut a hole out in the back of the cabinet for the air duct, and hung the cabinet.

Then we blocked on top of the cabinet with 3/4" material (in the open space above the face frame)

And also added blocking for all the other cabinets to support our crown moulding (it's not actually crown, it's the same stuff we used for our window and door headers, flat on the back side).

Then we just cut the crown and fit it,

Nailed it up,

And you'd never know that this cabinet actually at one point looked like we'd forgotten how to read a tape measure.

I'm sharing with you the plans for an open 36" wall cabinet below, but just in case you find yourself in a corner with a duct in the way, here's the mods we made:

Enjoy the plans following!

XO 

Ana + Family

Dimensions

Dimensions: 
Open Wall Cabinet - 36" Wide x 30" Tall
Dimensions: 
Dimensions shown above

Materials and Tools

Shopping List: 

3/4" plywood (18 linear feet) ripped into depth of cabinet (we did 10-1/4" but you can choose any width just make sure the width is consistent from cabinet to cabinet)
1/2 sheet of 1/4" plywood
scrap plywood piece for top support/hanging cabinet
3 feet of 1x3s
8 feet of 1x2s
1-1/4" nails for attaching face frame (unless you use pocket holes) or fixed shelves
3/4" nails for attaching back
Glue
1-1/4" pocket holes for building and attaching frame
shelf pins if you use adjustable shelves
edge banding for front edges of shelves

Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
compound miter saw
table saw
nailer

Cut List

Cut List: 

2 - 3/4" plywood @ 10-1/4" (or your rip width) x 30" (sides)
2 - 3/4" plywood @ 10-1/4" (or your rip width) x 34" (top and bottom)
1 - 3/4" plywood or 1x4 @ 34" (can be different width, this piece is just used for hanging on wall)
1 - 1/4" plywood 30" x 35-1/2" (back)

FACE FRAME
1 - 1x3 @ 36"
1- 1x2 @ 36"
2 - 1x2 @ 26"

SHELVES
Fixed with front edgebanding - cut 36" long and trim front edge back 1/8" for edge banding
Adjustable with front edgebanding - cut 35-3/4" long and trim front edge back 1/8" for edge banding

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Step 1

Open Wall Cabinet - 36" Wide x 30" Tall

Build your carcass by attaching top and bottom to sides. Remember to keep all pocket holes on outsides - the neighboring cabinets or end panels will finish out outsides when you install your kitchen.

TIP: Drill 3/4" pocket holes facing forward along all top, bottom and side edges for attaching face frame in later steps.

Step 2

Open Wall Cabinet - 36" Wide x 30" Tall

You'll need something for hanging the cabinet on the wall. We use scraps from the carcass plywood (but you could use a 1x4 here too) attached from the back with pocket holes.

Step 3

Open Wall Cabinet - 36" Wide x 30" Tall

Attach back with nails and glue. We use 3/4" nails.

Step 4

Open Wall Cabinet - 36" Wide x 30" Tall

Build the face frame first with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, then attach through the pocket holes you drilled in step 1 with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. The face frame will overhang the sides by 1/4", but is flush to top and bottom of sides.

Step 5

Open Wall Cabinet - 36" Wide x 30" Tall

For fixed shelves, nail or staple in place from outsides (don't do pocket holes, they will be visible from underneath). For adjustable shelves, drill shelf pin holes.

The shelves should be cut to width for fixed shelves, but trim off 1/8" on front for edgebanding and apply the edge banding.

For adjustable shelves, trim off 1/4" in overall length so the shelves are easy to place inside, and 1/8" on front edge for edge banding. Apply edge banding to front of shelves.

Step 6

Open Wall Cabinet - 36" Wide x 30" Tall

Hang cabinet through top back support to studs in walls.

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

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