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posted by Ana White

DIY Kitchen wall cabinet plans by ana-white.com

Open Wall Cabinet - 36" Wide x 30" Tall

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About Project

Author Notes: 

It took great thought, time and careful planning to build this here cabinet.

Yes, we sure did spend hours considering exactly how "off" we should build the face frame from the carcass.  Not only is the carcass several inches too tall, the face frame is an extra inch wide.  

Many hours.  Of careful planning.

To get this cabinet built just right.

And we are so proud of it!

Here's why.  In the corner of this kitchen, there is a return air duct smack dab where the top of the kitchen cabinet would go.  

We'd have to move the air duct to fit a cabinet in there that matched the rest of the cabinets.

Or we'd have to build a wonky cabinet around the air duct.

If it's a choice of doing drywall or making sawdust, well, that's a no brainer.

We'll take the sawdust.

So we decided to make the carcass of the cabinet as tall as the ceiling height to allow the air duct to fit inside the cabinet, BUT keep the face frame the same height as the neighboring cabinets for consistency.  Since this cabinet is in a corner, we also used a 1x3 at the left edge to tie into the neighboring cabinet at 90 degrees.

We cut a hole out in the back of the cabinet for the air duct, and hung the cabinet.

Then we blocked on top of the cabinet with 3/4" material (in the open space above the face frame)

And also added blocking for all the other cabinets to support our crown moulding (it's not actually crown, it's the same stuff we used for our window and door headers, flat on the back side).

Then we just cut the crown and fit it,

Nailed it up,

And you'd never know that this cabinet actually at one point looked like we'd forgotten how to read a tape measure.

I'm sharing with you the plans for an open 36" wall cabinet below, but just in case you find yourself in a corner with a duct in the way, here's the mods we made:

Enjoy the plans following!

XO 

Ana + Family

Dimensions

Dimensions: 
Open Wall Cabinet - 36" Wide x 30" Tall
Dimensions: 
Dimensions shown above

Materials and Tools

Shopping List: 

3/4" plywood (18 linear feet) ripped into depth of cabinet (we did 10-1/4" but you can choose any width just make sure the width is consistent from cabinet to cabinet)
1/2 sheet of 1/4" plywood
scrap plywood piece for top support/hanging cabinet
3 feet of 1x3s
8 feet of 1x2s
1-1/4" nails for attaching face frame (unless you use pocket holes) or fixed shelves
3/4" nails for attaching back
Glue
1-1/4" pocket holes for building and attaching frame
shelf pins if you use adjustable shelves
edge banding for front edges of shelves

Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
compound miter saw
table saw
nailer

Cut List

Cut List: 

2 - 3/4" plywood @ 10-1/4" (or your rip width) x 30" (sides)
2 - 3/4" plywood @ 10-1/4" (or your rip width) x 34" (top and bottom)
1 - 3/4" plywood or 1x4 @ 34" (can be different width, this piece is just used for hanging on wall)
1 - 1/4" plywood 30" x 35-1/2" (back)

FACE FRAME
1 - 1x3 @ 36"
1- 1x2 @ 36"
2 - 1x2 @ 26"

SHELVES
Fixed with front edgebanding - cut 36" long and trim front edge back 1/8" for edge banding
Adjustable with front edgebanding - cut 35-3/4" long and trim front edge back 1/8" for edge banding

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Step 1

Open Wall Cabinet - 36" Wide x 30" Tall

Build your carcass by attaching top and bottom to sides. Remember to keep all pocket holes on outsides - the neighboring cabinets or end panels will finish out outsides when you install your kitchen.

TIP: Drill 3/4" pocket holes facing forward along all top, bottom and side edges for attaching face frame in later steps.

Step 2

Open Wall Cabinet - 36" Wide x 30" Tall

You'll need something for hanging the cabinet on the wall. We use scraps from the carcass plywood (but you could use a 1x4 here too) attached from the back with pocket holes.

Step 3

Open Wall Cabinet - 36" Wide x 30" Tall

Attach back with nails and glue. We use 3/4" nails.

Step 4

Open Wall Cabinet - 36" Wide x 30" Tall

Build the face frame first with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, then attach through the pocket holes you drilled in step 1 with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. The face frame will overhang the sides by 1/4", but is flush to top and bottom of sides.

Step 5

Open Wall Cabinet - 36" Wide x 30" Tall

For fixed shelves, nail or staple in place from outsides (don't do pocket holes, they will be visible from underneath). For adjustable shelves, drill shelf pin holes.

The shelves should be cut to width for fixed shelves, but trim off 1/8" on front for edgebanding and apply the edge banding.

For adjustable shelves, trim off 1/4" in overall length so the shelves are easy to place inside, and 1/8" on front edge for edge banding. Apply edge banding to front of shelves.

Step 6

Open Wall Cabinet - 36" Wide x 30" Tall

Hang cabinet through top back support to studs in walls.

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
posted by Ana White

This is almost as bad as the time that I admitted that I secretly like minivans ... (shh, don't tell, but seriously, automatic sliding doors, easy to put car seats in, plenty of room for friends ... you had me at hello low lift gate!). 

I'm admitting, straight up, that I like laminate countertops. As an owner of a granite countertop, and a busy mom, here's why: 

- Laminate is softer and more forgiving. The granite (and I imagine marble or tile or other hard surfaces) is so unforgiving. And when you are a busy mom like me, doing dishes while cooking dinner and helping your older kid out with homework all at the same time, the countertop always wins. That's why we've got three drinking glasses and no stoneware left. 

- Laminate is easier to maintain and clean. No need to seal or use special cleaner on laminate - just a sponge, household cleaner and a quick wipe down! No polishing, no scrubbing grout lines, no regular sealing required!

- Laminate is durable. One of my friends keeps thinking she wants to redo her countertops, but resists because there's really nothing wrong with her laminate countertops except she doesn't like it, but can't justify destroying something that is still in great condition after 20 years. And it's true - laminate will last and last, through raising kids, hot pots and pans, and sadly enough, through design trends.

- Laminate has grown up.  The new patterns and colors that you can get laminate in can be very timeless and now. Even though a laminate countertop could last from the 80s (or should I say 90s now?  Are the 80s back in yet?), you can pick patterns that are very much 2014.

- Laminate is much more DIY friendly.  We can DIY a full countertop in a kitchen with just a few hand power tools and materials you can buy at your local home improvement center.

- Laminate is much less expensive. Compared to marble or granite, laminate can by 1/10 the cost! 

Grandma who likes to sew LOVES her laminate countertops that we DIYed for her last fall.  So when it came time to pick the countertops for Unit A of the Momplex, we once again turned laminate.

This time, we choose a large, marble pattern, and we LOVE how it turned out!!!

We were able to order the laminate (it arrived in 3 DAYS!!!) so that there's not a seam on any of the countertops.  

Not. One. Seam.

This entire countertop cost about $400 for us to DIY, and took us about 1 day to make.  You can see our DIY Laminate countertop tutorial here.

We kept things pretty similar to the kitchen on Unit B, but did decide to add a bar behind the sink.  We love how it turned out!

To support the bar top (and add a little bit of a decorative element) we purchased three corbels for $14 bucks a piece from The Home Depot.

I attached them to a piece of hardwood plywood (it's PureBond Birch, also available at The Home Depot for about $50 for a full sheet).  We opted to add the back plywood piece because it will help us tie our corbels into studs in the bar, and also gives the bar a more finished look.

We primed and painted the entire piece on sawhorses.

While the paint was drying, we had something else to take care of -

We had stubbed electrical wires out for in between the regular countertop and the bar height countertop for outlets.  But when we added an inch to the floors by installing an in-floor heat system, this brought the lower base cabinets up 1".  Now suddenly there's not room for an electrical box in that wall.  So what to do?

Make room of course!

So now there's power outlets on either side of the sink (as opposed to an extension cord draped over the sink).  

Once that little issue was taken care of, we can move on to actually installing the countertops.

Having the plywood behind the corbels lets us screw the plywood into the studs in the bar wall (and place the corbels anywhere the heck we want).

We attached the plywood to studs in the walls using 3" wood screws.

The corbels will support the countertop overhang, but I also love how the look.

To attach the countertops, we applied glue to the tops of the corbels and bar wall.

Nothing like a guy who can haul a marble countertop around by himself!

On Momplex Unit B, we actually had a channel made into the bottom of the countertop to slide it over the bar wall.  But this time, we'll be able to screw through the corbel tops, so no need.  We just put the countertop down,

Make sure it's in the right position,

And screw through the corbels into the underside of the countertop.

And then it's time to find something heavy to hold the countertop down while the glue dries.

Hmmmmm ... what could we have on hand that is very heavy? 

Backsplash tile of course!

For the rest of the countertops, we attached them as we did in Momplex Unit B - by screwing through the tops of the cabinets into the undersides of the countertop.

So what do you think?  How does $400 on a durable and low maintenance countertop that looks like this sound?  

Happy DIY-ing!

XO 

Ana + Family

PS - Still skeptical? Check out my friend Kate from Centsational Girl's post on why she loves laminate here.

posted by Ana White

Grandma-who-likes-to-sew got home from her trip at 1:00 AM ... and just six hours later, she was spoiling the kids with hugs, kisses and gifts .... and gushing about her new mudroom!

(For those of you who missed a post this past week, Grandma's been traveling, so we decided surprise her with a mudroom makeover in her side of the Momplex.)

Just to refresh, here's what the space looked like before we started working on the mudroom projects ...

And here's what it looks like now -

Yes, Grandma loves her new mudroom!

And even though it looks like a million bucks, we only spent about $200 on it! 

The bench is just a 2x4 "floor" framed into the studs in the walls,

Covered in plywood and boards that we pre-painted.  The bench is almost seven feet long and super sturdy.  We spent $43 on it.

The organizer is just a giant shelf that we built (it is HUGE!!!) and somehow hoisted it up there and screwed it to studs in the walls.  

The organizer costs about $113 - so now we are up a little over $150.

But it looks a little empty under the bench, so I thought building some drawers underneath would be the perfect way to add hidden storage for shoes and other stuff.

I decided to build trundle drawers underneath to keep the costs down, the building simple (we are proud parents of a new baby, so time is pretty tight right now), and the storage ample.

Here's how I built these trundle drawers -

Since the trundle drawers are custom made for under the bench, I carefully measured the width of the space, depth and height.  Note that when you are working with walls, make sure you measure the width at the front and back - walls are not always square.

Once I had my space measured, I then decided to build two drawers under the bench.  Unless you have a very wide space, I recommend one or two trundle drawers.  Once you start getting middle drawers that can't "ride" alongside a wall, the drawers won't slide in and out as easily.  I made the drawers 1/2" less than the opening to allow some room for the drawers to slide and move.

Once I knew the size of my drawers, I cut the sides and front and back.  

I used 3/4" plywood ripped into strips 8" tall (had 12" overall clearance).  You want to leave enough room underneath for the caster wheels.

The sides are the depth of your drawers.

The front and back are the width of your drawers minus the thickness of your wood times 2 (for example if you are using 3/4" plywood, and the width of the drawer is 24", you would cut the fronts and backs at 22-1/2").

I built my drawers with pocket holes, set at the 3/4" setting.  I just drilled two pocket holes on each end of the FRONT and BACK boards.

Then I attached the front and back boards to the side boards, with the pocket holes on the outsides.  Your drawer faces will cover the front pocket holes and the back pocket holes will be on the back of the drawers, hidden.

Once I had my boxes built, I nailed and glued 1/4" plywood to the bottom of te boxes.  

With the boxes done, I can now work on my drawer faces -

I used this tutorial to build the drawer faces - it's basically a piece of 1/2" plywood framed with 1x3s, all pocket holed together on the back.  I built my drawers bigger than the boxes (height-wise) to cover the caster wheels and fill the gap under the bench, but the same width (because my drawers are snug fitting under the bench).

Then I attached my hardware to the drawer faces on the ground - it's easier to do this now than when there is a giant drawer attached to the back of the drawer face.

Now back to the drawer boxes -

I screwed the caster wheels to the base of the boxes.  I purchased the caster wheels here from Amazon for $4.24 a set - they are actually nice wheels that roll really well!  I was surprised at that price!

Two of the wheels are fixed, and two swivel.  I put the two swiveling wheels to the back (like car tires where the front tires turn and the back tires don't).

Then I positioned the drawers under the bench, in their final location - 

And attached the drawer faces with a finish nailer from the outside.  I just put two nails in each drawer to get the face in position.  I made sure the gap between the bench and the drawer face was even all the way across.  

Once the drawer faces are on with a couple of nails, I pulled the drawers out and added screws from the inside to make sure that drawer face wouldn't get pulled off.

And now for the most time consuming part ......  I stepped back and admired my work!  Man, does it ever feel good to finish a project and love the results!

Here's a few more pictures, because I can't help myself!

It's actually a pretty big bench, those standard sized pillows look tiny!

The drawers slide really well,

Offering tons of storage inside.

This has been one of my favorite projects ever!  It was fun, simple and inexpensive.  Here's a breakdown of the cost of the drawers - 

Lumber for drawers - $20

Plywood for bottoms - $10 (I used half a sheet)

Handles - $17 (ouch, those were pricey!)

Caster wheels - $9

Total - $56

Adding in the cost of the bench and organizer, for a grand total of $212!!!

That's about the cost of just one Alaska-worthy down coat!  Speaking of down coats .... I'm dreading the pile of coats that will soon cover this mudroom up - but function trumps form, right?

Thanks for reading and following along!  We hope this post was useful to you and might help you with your own DIY projects.

XO Ana + Family

Also wanted to give a quick shout-out to Ryobi for providing the tools to build this mudroom bench.  Thanks Ryobi!

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