Clubhouse Bed
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About Project
Build a clubhouse bed! Free plans from ana-white.com
Do NOT be like me.
Last winter, stuck inside for months and months while we waited for the sun to return to Alaska, Grace and I were really missing her original playhouse bed.
Now that I blog, our spare bedroom has turned into my office slash room of shame and the only place we have for guests to sleep is Grace's bed. A couple of years ago we decided NOT to force our guests to sleep up in Grace's playhouse bed and replaced it with the Hailey storage bed.
All has been good, and it's great having somewhere for guests to stay.
But then last winter, Grace saw the Eli Fort Bed in Pottery Barn Kid's catalog and asked if we could build it for her.
I drew the plans up.
And they sat on my computer for months.
And months.
When my dear friend Jaime from That's My Letter wrote me saying it was her Buddy Boy's turn to get a new bed and, I knew Jaime would get the bed done and posted and shared.
We worked on refining the plans, and you will thank Jaime when you build this bed for her brilliant suggestion to sister up 2x4 legs for added strength. This also allows for the bed to be assembled in easy pieces.
One week later, the clubhouse bed is done.
Be like Jaime.
DIY this bed today.
Your kids are growing every day, and one sad sad day, they won't want a clubhouse bed anymore :(
Well, if I haven't lost you already - no offense taken - Jaime really built an amazing bed! - I have one request: Please stop over and read all the details from Jaime on how she built this bed.
Jaime added a fort area underneath. She sewed those cute curtains! You can check out the details here.
And she made this surfboard sign too! Check out her tutorial here.
And she added window grids that hinge open! You can get the instructions on making these window grids here.
So PIN THIS project right now to your DIY board and make it happen!
And of course the plans follow! Thank you Jaime!
Dimensions
Materials and Tools
2 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long
4 – 1x3 @ 8 feet long
8 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
5 – 1x4 @ 8 feet long
2 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
15 – 1x6 @ 8 feet long
1 ¼ and 2 ½ PH screws
1 1/4 finish nails
Wood glue
3” screws or bolts for assembly
2” screws for slats
Slats (7 – 1x3 @ 8 feet long)
NOTE: Jaime recommends the following changes to the shopping list because her 1x6 board ran a little wide on the front and she wanted gaps between the wood slats.
- add 2 - 1x5 @ 8'
- decrease 1x6 quantity to 14
Cut List
NOTE: This plan assumes your 1x6 boards are less than 5 1/2" wide. Jaime found that she needed to substitute two of the 1x6 boards on front and back for 1x5 boards to create gaps between the wood slats.
SIDE WALLS (BUILD 2)
4 – 2x2 @ 36”
14 – 1x3 @ 25 ½”
4 – 2x4 @ 68” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
4 – 2x4 @ 17” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, NOT parallel)
2 – 1x4 @ 43 ½”
BACK WALL
2 – 2x4 @ 68” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 37 1/4” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x5 (Jaime recommends using the 1x5s here instead of 1x6) @ 40 3/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 43 1/2” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 46 3/4” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 49 7/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 53 1/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
1 – 1x6 @ 54 1/2” (top end cut to dogeared point 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
1 – 1x4 @ 78”
2 – 1x4 @ 49” (one end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
1 – 1x2 @ 71”(slat rail ledge)
2 – 2x4 @ 12” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel)
FRONT WALL
2 – 2x4 @ 68” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 37 1/4” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 40 3/8” (Jaime recommends swapping these out for the 1x5 boards) (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 13 7/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 17 1/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
4 – 1x6 @ 17 5/8” (under windows)
2 – 1x6 @ 49 7/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 16” (doorway)
1 – 1x4 @ 78”
2 – 1x4 @ 49” (one end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
4 – 1x2 @ 13” (window trim - recommend cutting to fit)
1 – 1x2 @ 71” (slat rail ledge)
2 – 2x4 @ 12” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel)
- add 2 - 1x2 @ 14.5" (lower window trim interior - add to inside of windows)
LADDER
2 – 1x6 @ 38” (both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, ends are parallel)
3 – 1x6 @ 14 ½”
1 – 1x4 @ 14 ½”
SLATS
Recommend cutting 1x3 @ 40 1/2” long
General Instructions
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Step 1
Build the walls with 3/4" PHs and 1 1/4" PH screws. Use scrap 1x3 to help with spacing. Fill upper holes with either PH plugs or wood filler.
Step 2
Now add the legs.
Step 3
And then add the cross supports. Jaime used 2 1/2" PH screws through 1 1/2" PHs to attach.
Step 4
And the trim to the base.
NOTE: Attach 34” up NOT 34 ¼”
Step 5
Build your back wall. I suggest leaving gaps between the wood boards to get that "clubhousey" look but you could also PH them together. Up to you! Either way, I'd recommend laying out all the boards first and going from there.
NOTES FROM JAIME: as in plans 13 slats @ 5 1/2" = 78.5" which is 1/2" too much width, change out 40 3/8" slats to 1x5 which allows for 1/8" spacing between slats (these changes have been made in the cut and shopping list above)
- PH screws first slat (37 1/4") to legs, then use 1x4 @78" trim piece and screw slats to trim from inside, then same at top angled trim pieces
Step 6
Attach top and bottom trim.
Step 7
This is for the slat system. You can use a 2x2 here too.
Step 8
And the cross supports.
Step 9
Lay out your front wall as you did the back wall.
Step 10
And add the trim.
Step 11
I'd cut the window trim a little long here.
NOTES FROM JAIME:
screw on front trim from inside then screw added interior window trim from inside from strength (my kids will definitely lean on this sill and without any side support in the slats I needed to add the extra longer interior trim piece).
- I also added a short 1x2 @ 4" piece across the top point on the interior to hold the joint where the angled trim pieces meet, not to mention it provides a sturdy hook for decor.
Step 12
And the bottom supports and cross supports.
Step 13
Now move the pieces into the room. For the large walls, try going in upside down, and getting one leg through at a time.
NOTES FROM JAIME: I used 3/8" lag bolts @ 3 1/2" in 3 spots on each leg
Step 14
Add the slats or bunkie board or box spring.
Step 15
And then build your ladder and attach.
NOTES FROM JAIME: gap between rungs is 8", attached with 2 - 3/8" carriage bolts @ 3"
Step 16
For the window grid tutorial and lots other tips and construction photos please read Jaime's build post here.
Finishing Instructions
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Rustic X Console
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Additional Photos
About Project
Build a rustic X console! Free step by step plans from Ana-White.com!
Hi everyone!
Did you have a good weekend?
I can't tell you more about my weekend just yet other than the fact that I'm pretty darn sore. A DIY life sure keeps you in shape, doesn't it?
I'll give you a hint - it has to do with 2x4s.
Lots of 2x4s.
Speaking of 2x4s - aren't they awesome???? So sturdy and strong and cheap, and for today's plan, beautiful!
Yep, those are 2x4 legs!!!!
My friend Hillary from The Friendly Home has been asking for plans for a substantially sized X Console like this one from another friend of mine's home - Kate from Centsational Girl:
Hillary and I worked really hard on this design to get it JUST right. She wanted something a little more rustic, and I had received numerous other plan requests for an X console inspired by Pottery Barn's Belmont Buffet.
And this is what we came up with! Now I say we as in I just drew a plan up. Hillary took a simple plan made up of 2x4s, 2x2s, 2x6s and 1x12s and turned it into a heirloom piece filled with heirlooms.
Like the beautiful handmade console, each of those quilts has a story too. I encourage you to take a second to stop over to The Friendly Home and read more about Hillary building this console, the finish she used, and the story behind those beautiful quilts!
Dimensions
Materials and Tools
6 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long
3 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1x12 @ 12 feet long
3 – 2x6 @ stud length or 8 feet
Corner hardware/decorative bolts
1 1/4" and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws
2 1/2" screws
Cut List
12 – 2x2 @ 30”
6 – 2x4 @ 28 1/2"
2 – 1x12 @ 63 1/2"
5 – 2x4 @ 11 1/4"
2 – 2x2 @ 11 1/4"
2 – 2x2 @ 22 1/2" (long point to short point, ends parallel, cut at 60 degrees off square)
4 – 2x2 @ 11 1/4" (longest point to shortest point, long end cut at 60 degrees off square, short point cut at 30 degrees off square, angles are in same direction)
3 – 2x6 @ 74 1/2"
General Instructions
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Step 1
First build two frames as shown in diagram.
Step 2
Then attach frames to shelves. NOTE: I recommend drilling 3/4" PHs with Kreg Jig around all sides of each shelf for attaching all shelf trim with 1 1/4" PH screws later on.
Step 3
2x4 supports need to be the same width as your 1x12 boards - expected to be 11 1/4" wide. Attach to frames and shelves. For attaching to frames, use 2 1/2" PH screws through 1 1/2" PHs.
Step 4
And then just trim out sides of shelves.
Step 5
Now the fun part. I recommend building the Xs first and fitting. Once built, you can simply glue in place or add a few nails. The Xs will add extra support, but are primarily decorative.
Step 6
And then add the top! You can build top first with 1 1/2" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws and then attach to top through 2x4/2x2 aprons or just plank the top for a rustic look - it's up to you. TIP: Just use your 2 1/2" PH screw to attach the top so you don't have to go out and buy more 2 1/2" screws.
Finishing Instructions
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Well, Well, Well .....
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Momplex Stats
The other day Gracie was blowing bubbles up at the Momplex and I noticed something.
Did you notice it too?
Something is a little different up at the Momplex.
There's a pipe sticking out of the ground.
So I asked the Ram.
Did you know there's a pipe sticking out of the ground up at the Momplex?
Well, well, well.
Apparently, while I was away at SNAP this truck came.
And parked right next to the Momplex.
And two men hopped out.
And threaded a giant drilling thing into heaps of huge steel pipes.
And then welded each pipe together.
240 feet of huge pipes welded together.
And inside those welded pipes is a huge drill bit, drilling a hole in the ground, spitting out rocks and dirt.
Apparently it was very loud.
And went on for days.
And apparently, there is a $12,000 charge to my credit card.
The things that go on when you leave for a week!
Mom, you've got water.
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