Loft Bed as seen on HGTV Saving Alaska

Built in loft bed plans from Ana-White.com featured on HGTV Saving Alaska

Author Notes: 

Well, we still haven't heard back yet from HGTV ....   

And going through this plan is making me hopeful all over again - it was so much fun getting to work with real families, to make their home better!  

We've already shared the desk system plans with you (you can find the CPU base plans here and the bookshelf base plans here),

And today, I'm so excited to finally get to share the loft bed plans with you!

Now this should have been the easiest loft bed ever.  And it will be for you too.

Unless you live in a super insulated home in Alaska.

To make this bed easy to build, I decided to just build a mini floor inside the room (see plans following), using the studs in the walls as supports for the loft bed.

What they didn't show in the episode (and we didn't know until we started building) is the walls in this house aren't standard.  On the inside of the home, over the standard framed walls, an additional layer of 2x boards was run horizontally every 32", and then an additional layer of foam insulation placed between the horizontal boards.

That meant to tie the loft bed directly into the horizontal studs, we'd have to hang the bed at 32" (too low) or 64" (too high by the time we added the framing).  We needed the bed to be hung lower to give enough headroom.

We almost scrapped the loft bed idea ..... but at the last minute, I came up with a plan to use plywood to frame the walls around the loft bed out, making it look like we meant to wrap the walls in plywood.  You know, to protect the walls around the bed and add style points.  Not because I needed to cheat the bed down somehow  wink

Then it got easy.  We just used hangers to hang the loft bed floor joists.  Slid boards into those, topped it with 1x6s,

 

Trimmed the front out and gave it a good sanding and sealed it with clear coat,

 

And suprised ourselves at how we actually liked the bed better with the plywood surround!  

You know what they say, right?  When life gives you super insulated walls with horizontal studs, well, you make a modern loft bed!

You'll find the plans following for this project!  Enjoy!

XO Ana + Crew

NOTE: Guardrail is recommended for this bed.  

 

 

 

Shopping List: 

We used 2x4s to span about 8 feet.  For longer spans, you may wish to use 2x6s for additional support.

2 Joist Hangers per Stud and screws for hanging joist hangers

Screws long enough to attach 2x4s to studs in the wall (we used 4" screws)

1-1/4" finish nails

wood glue

Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
compound miter saw
nailer
countersink drill bit
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Can be built to any size. Standard twin mattress is 75x39 - recommend at least 48" width or a guardrail or both if needed.
Cut List: 

2 - 2x4 @ desired width of bed MINUS 3/4" (wall cleats)

Studs are length of bed MINUS 3"

1x6 decking boards are cut same length as wall cleats

1x6 front trim is full width of front of bed (cut to fit)

Cutting Instructions: 
Step 1: 

Hang wall cleats securely to studs in walls, to as many studs as possible, using 2 screws per stud.  

Step 2 Instructions: 

Use joist hangers to hang the studs to the cleats. 

For added support, we also attached the back 2x4 to studs in the wall.

Step 3 Instructions: 

1x6 decking was then layed on top of the framing, and nailed down with 1-1/4" finish nails and glue.

Step 4 Instructions: 

The front was then trimmed out with a 1x6 board.  We left a slight lip to the top to prevent items from rolling off bed.

 

A guardrail is also recommended to prevent injury.

Step 5 Instructions: 
Step 6 Instructions: 
Step 7 Instructions: 
Step 8 Instructions: 
Step 9 Instructions: 
Step 10 Instructions: 
Step 11: 
Step 12: 
Step 13: 
Step 14: 
Step 15: 
Step 16: 
Step 17: 
Step 18: 
Step 19: 
Step 20: 
Step 21: 
Step 22: 
Step 23: 
Step 24: 
Step 25: 
Step 26: 
Step27: 
Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Finish Used: 
Project Type: 
Room: 
Skill Level: 

Easy, Economical Garage Shelving from 2x4s

Free plans to build garage shelving using only 2x4s.  Easy and inexpensive, but sturdy and functional.  Includes video tutorial from ana-white.com

Author Notes: 

Thanks so much for watching my newest video on building a 20' long garage storage shelving unit!

I hope you enjoyed watching it as much as I enjoyed making the video and the storage unit!  It was fun!

Now it's your turn - here's the plans for the project!

Some project notes:

- You can make your shelving as long or short as you want.  

- The span between leg sets can be altered.  Mine are about 5' appart, and it's plenty strong.  I'd go wider (6') so that you can fit three of those giant storage totes per shelf.  According to the Sagulator you can put about 200 pounds on a six foot long shelf, made of 4 2x4 boards.  

- You can go taller if you want.

- You can add more shelves, at any height.

- Make sure you secure to the wall to prevent forward tipping or racking

Shopping List: 

2 - 10' long 2x4s PER Leg Support (I had 5 leg supports, so I bought 10)

4 - 2x4 - length of shelf PER SHELF (I bought 16 2x4 @ 20' long because I had 4 shelves, 20' long each)

2-1/2" self tapping wood screws 

2 1/2 inch screws
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
circular saw
sander
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions: 
72" tall x 20' long (or desired length)
Cut List: 

PER LEG SUPPORT

2 - 2x4 @ 72"

4 - 2x4 @ 17"

 

 

Step 1: 

Mark out placement of shelf supports on each of the legs.  Attach legs to shelf supports with 2-1/2" self tapping screws and glue.  

Step 2 Instructions: 

Mark out on 4 of the shelf boards the placement of the leg supports.  Attach 2 to top shelf and 2 to bottom shelf with screws.  I attached the outer boards first, flush to the inside of the leg boards.  This will create the basic shape of your shelving unit.

Adjust for square.  Then add remaining shelf boards and screw down.

Attach securely to wall to prevent forward tipping or racking.

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type: 
Skill Level: 

Jilly and Mia Workbench Console

Plans for Industrial Workbench Console from Ana-White.com

Author Notes: 

Oh.My.Goodness.

After so many of you have requested, I have a special plan treat for you today!!!!

I'm sure you've seen this utterly amazing found workbench that Jilly and Mia turned into a beautiful console by adding casters and a finish.

I'm so excited that Jilly and Mia are letting us share plans today so you can also have this beautiful console in your own home!!!!

How exciting is this????

For more photos and details (and to say thank you!) please visit Jilly and Mia here.

Plans follow!

Have a great weekend!

XO Ana + Family

Shopping List: 

8 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
3 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long
4 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long
3 - 2x10 @ 8 feet long
2 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long (could also use 2x4s)
4 - caster wheels
2-1/2" wood screws (get the self tapping torque head ones)
24 3" lag screws (for decorative exposed heads)
1-1/4" finish nails (for attaching bottom shelf boards)
2-1/2" pocket hole screws (you'll just need 8 for attaching bottom apron)

Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
hammer
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
circular saw
nailer
sander
countersink drill bit
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions: 
Dimensions shown above.
Cut List: 

4 - 2x4 @ 34-1/2" (longer leg pieces)
4 - 2x4 @ 31" (shorter leg pieces)
2 - 2x6 @ 22-1/4" (middle leg stretcher - passes through notches)
2 - 2x6 @ 13-3/4" (shorter bottom stretcher)
5 - 2x4 @ 20-3/4" (top "studs")
2 - 2x4 @ 88-1/2" (front/back top aprons)
2 - 2x6 @ 88-1/2" (bottom shelf front/back aprons)
2 - 2x4 @ 31" (center legs)
2 - 2x4 @ 22" (inside center legs)
2 - 2x2 @ 81" (could also use 2x4s - for setting shelf boards on top)
15 - 1x6 @ 20-3/4" (bottom shelf boards)
3 - 2x10 @ 8 feet long (top boards)

Step 1: 

Notch out the 8 leg pieces as shown here.

To notch out, set your circular saw blade to a depth of 3/4". Make cuts in notched area about every 1/4". Use a chisel to remove material from notched out areas after cutting.

Image from MakeZine

Step 2 Instructions: 

Fit the longer 2x6 inside the leg sets, attach with 2-1/2" screws from inside (starting screws on the longer 2x4) with glue.

Take care to make sure you are attaching square - you can use the shorter 2x6 as a spacer on the bottom (see next step) to help you here.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Attach bottom 2x6 with 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws. If you don't have a pocket hole jig you can alternatively attach by screwing at an angle with the 2-1/2" screws or you could notch as done with the upper 2x6 piece.

UPDATE: One of our readers suggested that when you attach this board with 1-1/2" pocket holes, the screw lands between the two leg boards. I suggest drilling 3/4" pocket holes instead (this will move the pocket hole inward enough) you can still use the 2-1/2" pocket hole screws.

Step 4 Instructions: 

Attach top 2x4 in place with 2-1/2" screws and glue. This completes the two leg sets.

Step 5 Instructions: 

Overhanging each end by 3/4" attach the aprons to the leg sets with the 3" decorative lag screws and glue. Be careful to measure and mark out the screw holes as the screw heads will be visible.

Step 6 Instructions: 

Attach 2x4 studs in between top aprons - these guys will support the tabletop in later steps.

Step 7 Instructions: 

Attach center leg to top and bottom aprons with 2-1/2" wood screws and glue.

Step 8 Instructions: 

Fill in void behind center leg with smaller 2x4.

Step 9 Instructions: 

Attach 2x2 cleats to insides of 2x6 aprons, about 3/4" down to allow for shelving boards (see next step).

Step 10 Instructions: 

Start in center and work outward, laying the 1x6 shelf boards down. The end 1x6s will need to be notched out with a jigsaw to allow for the legs to set inset.

Glue and nail down.

Step 11: 

Attach tabletop boards to studs and aprons on top with 2-1/2" screws and glue. Overhangs are even on ends and front/back.

Step 12: 

Attach casters to the bottom of legs.

Step 13: 

For finishing details, please visit Jilly and Mia.

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Skill Level: 

Pages