Reindeer Rocking Chair

DIY Reindeer rocker chair with template and plans from ana-white.com

Author Notes: 

Happy Friday!!!

You know what that means .... new Handmade Holiday plans today!

And these plans are especially cute and unique!

Jaime from That's My Letter and I teamed up this week to bring you plans for a DIY rocking chair!

Head on over to That's My Letter for detailed building steps and lots more photos!

And of course, plans follow!

Have a great weekend!  May it be full of sawdust!

 

XO Ana

 

Shopping List: 

2 - 24" x 24" pieces of 1/2" thick MDF (or on 48" x 24" piece)

1x3 @ 12"

1x10 @ 12"

1x6 @ 12"

1x4 @ 53"

1-1/4" pocket hole screws or 2" wood screws

3/4 inch screws
1 inch screws
Tools: 
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions: 
Dimensions shown above - suitable for 2-4 year olds
Cut List: 

2 - 1/2" mdf @ 24" x 24" (reindeer cutouts & antlers)
1 - 1x3 @ 12" (seat apron)
1 - 1x10 @ 12" (seat)
1 - 1x6 @ 12" (seat back)
2 - 1x4 @ 26" (rockers)

 

 

Cutting Instructions: 
Step 1: 

On one sheet of the 24" x 24" MDF, draw grid lines every 4".  Transfer the template diagram above to the MDF using the grid lines as a reference.

Carefuly cut out with a jigsaw.  Reserve the piece between reindeers legs for the antlers.

Trace pattern on to second piece of MDF and cut. 

A few tips when tracing and cutting the pattern -

- Trace from the side that you marked the pattern on as a jigsaw blade can bevel when you cut, resulting in a difference from one side of the pattern to the other

- Cut the traced line on the second side

- Clamp both pieces together and sand cut edges

Step 2 Instructions: 

Jaime built with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.  

 

If a Kreg Jig is on your Christmas list, you can also build with countersunk screws in the meantime, but you'll have to hide screw holes and it will be a little tricker to find the placement of the screws from the outside.  What I would do is add 1x2 cleats under the seat and behind the backrest.  You can also predrill holes through both patterns at the same time to make sure your screws line up.

 

NOTE: Make sure you predrill all non-pocket hole screws through the MDF.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Make sure when you attach the second reindeer to the seat and back rest that they are attached exactly in line with the first and the seat is level.

Step 4 Instructions: 

Cut the rockers from the 1x4s and sand until they match exactly.  More details on cutting rockers can be found in this plan.

Attach with 1" screws from inside of the reindeer's legs.  NOTE: You may wish to clamp the rockers on first and test how the reindeer balances, and reposition until it balances just right.

Step 5 Instructions: 

The antlers are cut from the scrap piece under the reindeer's belly.  As you did the reindeer bodies, cut the antlers to match and attach with 3/4" screws and glue to top of reindeer.

Noses are 2" rounds - you can cut them from the MDF scraps.

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Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
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Turned Leg Traditional Desk

DIY Desk inspired by Pottery Barn Printer desk - free step by step plans from ana-white.com

Author Notes: 

Hi everyone!

 

Meet Elisha from Pneumatic Addict!

I'm Elisha From Pneumatic Addict Furniture. I'm a mom of twins and wife living in sunny Arizona.  I started blogging two years ago with the goal to demystify the hardware store for women. I love power tools and am convinced that you don't need a Y-chromosome to build like a boss. I offer in-depth tutorials on topics like, furniture building and refinishing, home improvement, power tools, and home decor. If something inspires you, do your research, then give it a shot! 

 

Build like a boss.  I want that t-shirt.

And does Elisha ever!  Here's a few of her projects -

Coffee Table with DIY Pulley Wheels (because who can ever afford to buy wheels this big?)

 

Midcentury Card Catalog Bookshelf

DIY Entertainment Center

 

Pretty amazing stuff, yeah?

Well, wait until you see the project that Elisha is sharing with us today!

This desk.  Yes, this desk is completey DIY.

Here's from Elisha about this desk:

 My poor husband has been a full-time student, putting in countless hours of homework for years without a proper desk. For his birthday this year, he asked if I would please build him a study space. After searching the internet and pinning dozens of ideas, I decided I wanted a traditional, stained wood desk that would stand the test of time. I chose the Printer's Keyhole Desk from Pottery Barn as my inspiration. I love what I ended up with! A large, solid wood desk for a fraction of the price as the Pottery Barn version. Although this desk is a little complex to build, it went together very smoothly and wasn't very difficult. 

Elisha is sharing more photos, tips and tricks on her blog here, please go visit her now!

And make sure you follow her as well so you can be inspired and learn of new projects she posts -

 

Shopping List: 

1 - sheet of 3/4" plywood (rip two strips 13-1/2" wide x 8 feet long and save scraps for drawer faces)

4 - turned legs (Elisha used these ones)

4 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long

1 - 1x12 @ 10 feet long

1 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long

1 - 1x4 @ 3 feet long

5 - 1x6 @ 6 feet long

1/4 sheet of 1/4" thick plywood (for drawer bottoms)

3 - 16" Euro Drawer slides (the white cheap ones)

2 inch screws
3/4 inch finish nails
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions: 
Dimensions shown above - this desk is very deep, ideal for center of room use
Cut List: 

1 - 3/4" plywood @ 13-1/2" x 56" (back)

2 - 3/4" plywood @ 13-1/2" x 24" (sides)

2 - 3/4" plywood @ 13-1/2" x 28-1/4" (inner sides - must notch top out for 1x2 - recommend edge banding front edge)

1 - 1x2 @ 56" (front top)

2 - 1x2 @ 12-1/4" (front side trim)

2 - 1x2 @ 14-3/4" (front bottom trim)

1 - 1x2 @ 25" (front center drawer bottom trim)

2 - 1x2 @ 26-3/4" (drawer slide supports)

 

DRAWERS - CUT TO FIT OPENINGS!!!

For the 2 Large Drawers, can also be made from 1x10 or 1x8 boards

4 - 1x12 @ 16" (sides)

4 - 1x12 @ 11-1/2" (front/back)

2 - 1/4" plywood @ 13" x 16" (bottoms)

2 - 3/4" plywood @ 13-3/4" x 12" (faces)

For the 1 smaller drawer

2 - 1x3 @ 16" (sides)

2 - 1x3 @ 22-1/2" (front/back)

1 - 1/4" plywood @ 24" x 16" (bottom)

1 - 1x4 @ 24 - 3/4" (Face)

 

TOP

5 - 1x6 @ 60-1/2"

1x2s cut to fit around top

 

 

Step 1: 

Drill 3/4" pocket holes on inside ends of all side and back plywood pieces.  Attach with 1/2" space to legs.

OPTIONAL: Also drill 3/4" pocket holes facing upward in sides to attach to top in later steps

 

TIP: Use a piece of 1/2" thick plywood as a spacer to help guide you.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Attach 1x2 to front of cabinet at top.

Check for square and adjust for square.  

Step 3 Instructions: 

Nail or screw 1x2 trim to the front legs, inset 1/2" from front.

Step 4 Instructions: 

Notch drawer area sides out at top front for a 1x2 to pass over top.  Edge band the front edge of the plywood piece.  Attach with pocket holes on inside to back, 14-3/4" away from nearest leg.  Take great care to make sure this piece is attached parallel to the outside plywood piece.

 

Step 5 Instructions: 

Attach trim for bottom of drawer.

Step 6 Instructions: 

These boards are used for attaching drawer slides to.  You may wish to place after drawers are built and you are installing the drawers.  NOTE: For multiple drawers, add more where your drawer slides will need to be attached.  See Elisha's post here for more details on how she did multiple smaller drawers.

Step 7 Instructions: 

Build your drawers to fit your drawer slides and openings.  Install drawers with drawer slides.  Adjust by shimming if necessary until drawers slide easily.

IMPORTANT: Drawers should be installed inset 3/4" to allow for drawer faces to be added in next step.

For more details on how Pneumatic Addict installed a printer slide out tray and multiple smaller drawers, please go here for more information.

Step 8 Instructions: 

Attach drawer face to front of drawers, 1/8" gap around all sides.

For more information on how Pneumatic Addict added overlay door faces, please go here.

Step 9 Instructions: 

Build top seperately with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.  Trim with 1x2s.  Attach to desk top.

For more information on how Pneumatic Addict finished her top, please go here.

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type: 
Estimated Cost: 
Collections: 
Skill Level: 
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2x2 Indoor Playhouse Frame

Hi everyone!!!

You know what Friday means!

 

New Handmade Holiday Plans!!!

After last weeks indoor playhouse plans, Jaime and I wanted to also create plans for you for a simpler, less expensive indoor playhouse option.  We were both inspired by this playhouse for these plans.

 

For under $20 you can make this indoor playhouse!

I can just see my daughter covering this frame in sheets and "decorating" it herself!

Jaime and I purposely made this playhouse just less than 54" wide, so you could use 54" fabric to cover the side walls and roof easily (how about peel and stick velcro?).

And I adore how Jaime used a flat sheet to cover hers!

 

We've got you covered with the plans below - check them out - AFTER you go check out Jaime's building post here with LOTS more pictures!

Have an awesome weekend!!!

Ana

Shopping List: 

8 - 2x2, 8 feet long

2-1/2" pocket hole screws

2" finish nails

wood glue

Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions: 
Dimensions shown above
Cut List: 

2 - 2x2 @ 37"

4 - 2x2 @ 44" (longest point measurement, one end cut at 30 degrees off square)

4 - 2x2 @ 23-1/8" (both ends cut PARALLEL at 30 degrees off square, long point to short point measurement)

5 - 2x2 @ 48"

Step 1: 

Build the two gable ends.  You can use 1-1/2" pocket holes or 2-1/2" pocket hole screws and glue or countersink 2-1/2" screws.  Jaime used nails at the top to attach together.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Now simply attach the two end frames together.  You can use 1-1/2" pocket holes and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws and glue or countersink 2-1/2" screws through ends.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Jaime also added a chimney to the top for added detail.

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type: 
main_category: 
Skill Level: 
Style: 

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