DIY wood Christmas tree base cover from Ana-White.com

Author Notes: 

Well, here we are, well into December, well past Thanksgiving .... and no tree up yet.

I've been dreading putting a tree up.  

And here's the reason:

The one in the little HAPPY suit.

His arms are much longer than they look.

So what to do?

The only thing I could think of short of building a gate around the tree was to elevate the tree with some sort of wood base crate thingy.

I love this one from That's My Letter (full tutorial here)

And this one from The Turquoise Home (nice tutorial here)

But I needed something a little taller, a little more enclosed ... and it's Sunday (which means all the stores are closed within 100 miles of me, so I gotta use scraps and work with what I have on hand).

So I came up with this!

Not bad for a couple hours work and TWELVE BUCKS in lumber.

Yes, that's right.  

I love cedar fence pickets.  And 1x3 furring strips.  

So here's how I made it -

After cutting all my boards (I used a compound miter saw), I applied glue to the 1x3s,

I loaded up my Ryobi Airstrike stapler with 1" staples (if you don't have one of these bad boys, seriously, beg Santa for one)

Then attached the two outer boards to the 1x3 from the back.

Being square is always a good thing. NOTE: If you measure diagonally from outside corner to outside corner, the two diagonals should match.  If they don't you are out of square and need to adjust by pushing the longer diagonal end points together.  Do this before you put tons of staples in or let the glue dry.

Then I just centered the last remaining board in the middle and nailed it down.  This is the smaller side panel complete.

To build the two larger panels that need to cover the corners of the smaller panels, I took a quick measurement of the 1x3 plus the paneling, and cut my next 1x3 sets that much longer (times two for each end).

Then I marked this distance in on the 1x3s - for those of you with eagle eyes, I did not have enough cedar fence pickets so I made my own out of 1/4" thick plywood ripped down in size for this project, but this plan calls for the fence pickets because they have more character and are easier to work with because you don't have to rip them to size.

Then I just stapled the remaining two end panels together, leaving the 1x3 to overhang the ends as measured.

I then predrilled two holes on each end of the 1x3s where they overhang,

And used 2" wood screws to attach together the four panels at the corners through the predrilled holes.  I opted not to use glue here so I can take the stand appart after the holidays are over.

To cover the top, I just added a few 1x3 cleats inside, and rested more panels on top.  That way I can get in there and water the tree easily (and it will also remove and store flat with the rest of the tree cover stand)

For the tree trunk hole, I drilled holes in the two remaining panel pieces with a hole saw bit,

And then just used my compound miter saw to cut the hole out to the side.

With the two pieces cut like this, 

The tree trunk just sits in the middle,

And the two pieces just slide together to cover the opening.

For added detail, I stapled rope around in an X shape.

All done and ready for a tree!!!

The plans follow, if you build, please share!  I'd love to see your Christmas tree stand cover too!

XO Ana + Family

Shopping List: 

4 - 5-1/2" x 72" cedar fence pickets
2 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long

2 inch screws
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions: 
Dimensions shown above
Cut List: 

12 - cedar fence pickets @ 17" long
6 - 1x3 @ 17" long
4 - 1x3 @ approx 19-1/2" long CUT TO FIT!!!
4 - cedar fence pickets @ 16" long

Cutting Instructions: 
Step 1: 

Build the two smaller panels.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Build the two larger panels, with 1x3 ends overhanging enough to cover the ends of the panels built in step 1.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Add a cleat inside the larger panels for the top to sit on.

Step 4 Instructions: 

Attach the panels together at corners with 2" screws predrilled at corners.

Step 5 Instructions: 

Place top panels on cleats.

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Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
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Simple DIY dollhouse wall shelf plans from ANA-WHITE.com

Author Notes: 

Happy Friday!!!

Of course, that means it's Handmade Holiday time!

This holiday season, my dear friend Jaime from That's My Letter and I are teaming up to bring you a new gift plan every Friday until Christmas!  Make sure you check out all of our previous projects here.

Today we are delighted to share with you plans for a wood dollhouse wall shelf!

Perfect for all those little trinkets and treasures!

Make sure you check out Jaime's building tips and lots more photos here - she's full of bright ideas and clever techniques!

Enjoy the plans following!

XO Ana + Family

Shopping List: 

1 sheet of 1/2" thick plywood, ripped into strips 5" wide x 48" long

Trim screws (about 1-1/2" length) or brad nails or staples (1")

Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions: 
Dimensions shown above
Cut List: 

2 - 1/2" plywood @ 5" x 19-1/2" - longest point measurement, one end cut at 30 degrees off square

2 - 1/2" plywood @ 5" x 8-11/16" - long point to short point measurement, both ends cut at 30 degrees off square PARALLEL

6 - 1/2" plywood @ 5" x 14"

3 - 1/2" plywood @ 5" x 3"

2 - 1/2" plywood @ 5" x 5"

3 - 1/2" plywood @ 5" x 4"

Step 1: 

Build the outer frame of the dollhouse shelf.  

Step 2 Instructions: 

Add shelves.  Use the shelf dividers as spacers to help you place the shelves.

NOTE: Jaime actually attached her dividers first - that worked better for her.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Attach dividers with brad nailer at front and back (you should be able to fit the nose of your nailer in there). 

Step 4 Instructions: 

Optional - add a back.

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. 
 
 It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
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Easy to make wood gallery wall frames from 1x2 furring strips.

Author Notes: 

This year, I finally did it!

I'm such a DIY gal, it's hard for me to admit that there are times when I can't or shouldn't do everything myself.  

Case in point - family photos. 

Back when there was just one baby, the old click the timer and run trick was good enough for a couple of photos with everyone in it, and then a whole bunch more with one parent missing.  

Now with two kids?  I knew it would take a great deal of luck to get the whole family in a photo with eyes open and happy, exactly when the timer goes off on the camera.  And I am definitely not lucky in that way.

So we worked with a photographer this year to capture our family this holiday season.

 

I'm so thankful that Heather was able to capture our family this Holiday season.  We so loved how these photos turned out, I decided to frame the prints into a gallery wall.

I loved these gallery frames, but knew I could come up with something alot more reasonably priced - a set of 20 frames would cost me $418 on sale.  Here my chance redeem my DIY self!

So I built 20 wood frames for about $30 - mats included.  In fairness, I did not add glass which would have added to the cost, depending on the size.  I will probably cut my own out of acrylic glass after I finish making a few bigger frames too.

Aren't the photos so much more beautiful with the wood frames?  

I used 1x2 furring strips for the wood - they are so inexpensive ($1 here in Alaska for 8 feet) and have so much character.  

I stained the wood with Rustoleum Early American.  It's a nice rich color on pine.

This was such a fun and easy project that will have meaning to our family for years to come.  These little frames will make great gifts too!

I'm sharing the plans for this project below for you to use with your own photos.  And stay tuned, I will be sharing soon a video tutorial as well!!!

Thank you and Happy Holidays!

Ana + Family

 

 

Shopping List: 
1 1/4 inch finish nails
Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions: 
Fits 5x7 photo
 This plan can be easily modified to fit any size
Cut List: 

2 - 1x2 @ 8" (cut to width of mat)

2 - 1x2 @ 10" (cut to length of mat)

2 - 1x2 @ 9-1/2" (cut to width of mat PLUS 1-1/2" - measure and cut to fit is recommended)

Cutting Instructions: 
Step 1: 

Clamp the shorter 1x2 board to a tabletop and then nails with 1-1/4" nails and wood glue the 10" 1x2 to the 8" 1x2.

Step 2 Instructions: 

Measure the outside of the frame and cut two additional 1x2 boards to fit.  Glue and nail to frame.

Step 3 Instructions: 

Stain or paint the frame.

 

Glue mat to frame.  You can use craft glue or hot glue.

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Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. 
 
 It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Finish Used: 
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Estimated Cost: 
Skill Level: 
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