My daughter asked me for a dresser, the only problem was the dresser cost $1800 before tax and freight! So I built it for about $250!
This dresser features four large drawers, one medium and two small drawers, perfect for organizing everything! This is an oversized dresser, with lots of storage and a very substantial feel.
I built it using solid wood, so there's true character and unique wood grains. Because it's wood, I was able to pick the wood stain color of my choice!
I think it turned out pretty good! The free plans follow!
Preparation
- 7 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
- 1 - 1x3 @ 10 feet long
- 2 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
- 4 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long
- 1 - 2x2 @ 10 feet long
- 2 - 1x8 @ 10 feet long (cut longest pieces first)
- 1 - 1x10 @ 10 feet long
- Half sheet of 3/4" thick hardwood plywood
- 1 full sheet of 1/4" thick plywood or underlayment, ripped into two strips 20" wide x 8 feet long
- 3/4" and 1-1/4" brad nails
- 1-1/4" and 2-1/2" pocket hole screws
- 7 - 20" euro drawer slides (I used these from D. Lawless)
- 12 knobs (I used these from D. Lawless)
- wood glue
- wood filler
- finishing supplies
Carcass Cut List
- 6 - 1x2 @ 33-1/4" - vertical trim
- 7 - 1x2 @ 53" - rails for trimming between drawer faces
- 2 - 2x2 @ 53" - top rail on both front and back frames
- 4 - 1x2 @ 7-1/2" - inner styles, top row of drawers
- 2 - 1x2 @ 9-1/2" - inner styles, middle and bottom rows of drawers
- 1 - 1x2 @ 19-3/4" - inner style, back frame lower drawers
- 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 20" x 33-1/4" - side panels
- 3 - 1x8 @ 57-1/2" - top
- 2 - 1x3 @ 20-3/4" - side base
- 1 - 1x3 @ about 57-1/2" - front base, cut to fit
- 5/8" cove moulding is mitered and cut to fit
Drawer cuts - drawer front and backs should be measured and cut to fit, drawer sides are all 20" long
- 6 - 1x4 @ 20" - upper drawer boxes sides
- 4 - 1x4 @ 9-3/4" - small upper drawer boxes front and backs
- 2 - 1/4" plywood @ 20" x 11-1/4" - small upper drawer box bottoms
- 2 - 1x4 @ 24-1/2" - middle upper drawer box front and backs
- 1 - 1/4" plywood @ 20" x 26" - middle upper drawer box bottom
- 8 - 1x6 @ 20" - lower drawer box sides
- 8 - 1x6 @ 23-5/8" - lower drawer boxes front and backs
- 4 - 1/4" plywood @ 20" x 25-1/8" - lower drawer boxes bottoms
- 2 - 1x8 @ 12" - smaller upper drawer faces
- 1 - 1x8 @ 26-3/4" - middle upper drawer face
- 4 - 1x10 @ 25-7/8" - lower drawer faces
The dresser can be built in the steps shown in the video, but I thought after building this dresser, it would be easier to tackle in a different way. The below steps are this different way.
Instructions
Step 1
Use glue and nails to match up two 1x2s into a corner. Build two identical.
Step 2
Drill pocket holes in the ends of the 2x2 (top) and 1x2s (lower three).
Layout the front frame, so that the pocket holes are orientated facing downward. Attach first together with 1-1/4" brad nails and wood glue, careful to not nail in locations of pocket holes, or where pocket hole screws will intersect.
After attaching with nails, attach through the predrilled pocket holes with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.
NOTE: The diagram does show a 1x2 at the top. This is incorrect - the top should be a 2x2.
Step 3
Use glue and nails to attach the stiles in between as shown. For some, you may need to use pocket holes to join where there is an intersecting board.
It is very important that the pieces are placed perfectly, as the drawer slides are attached to this framing and your drawer won't slide right if spacing is not correct.
Step 4
Back frame - the back frame will be much easier to build, you can use glue and 1-1/4" brad nails to assemble. Be careful to space boards out exactly as shown, so the drawer slides slide straight.
Step 5
In the 3/4" plywood panels, drill 3/4" pocket holes on the inside top edge, for attaching the top in later steps. Avoid placing the pocket holes where a frame will be attach in the next two steps.
Attach the plywood panels to the front frame with 1-1/4" brad nails and wood glue.
Step 6
Place the back frame between the two plywood panels. Position if necessary inward so that your drawer slide cabinet member holes line up with the back frame as shown in the diagram.
Step 7
Build the top with the three 1x8s, with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws, taking great care to make sure the top panel is square.
Carefully position the carcass on the underside. Make sure the overhang on the front and sides is 3/4", and even all the way down - this is important because the top squares up the entire project.
Attach through the predrilled pocket holes with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Attach in other places, use blocking if needed.
Step 8
Attach the side base 1x3s to the plywood side panels with 1-1/4" brad nails. Measure and carefully cut the front 1x3. Attach with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails.
Step 9
Cut the cove moulding for the top and bottom, mitering the outside corner, and attach with 3/4" brad nails and wood glue.
Step 10
Measure the drawer openings and adjust the cut lists if necessary for the drawer boxes. All drawer sides are 20".
Build the drawer boxes with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue, attaching the bottoms with 3/4" brad nails and glue.
Install the drawer member hardware on the drawers, flush to the front, wheels to the back.
Install the cabinet member hardware on the inside of the carcass, so the front of the cabinet hardware is 3/4" in from the front face of the dresser. Here is a video showing how to install this type of drawer slide:
Step 11
Cut the drawer faces so there is a 1/8" gap on all sides of the drawer faces. Attach with 1/8" gap all the way around with 1-1/4" brad nails.
Further attach with 1-1/4" screws from the insides.
Step 12
Measure and mark the location of the drawer pulls. Drill out for the drawer pulls and attach. If the screws are not long enough, then drill out with a larger bit on the inside of the drawer.
