Classic Storage Wall, Extra Wide Media Unit

Submitted by Ana White on Tue, 01/19/2010 - 22:40
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This extra wide media base is sturdy and solid, featuring ample storage. If you need more storage, simply add storage bases and hutches to create an entire media suite from other plans in the Classic Storage Collection.

Special thanks to our readers for sharing their photos.

62" Wide x 25" Deep x 22 1/2" Tall


Shopping List
  • 2 – Sheet of 3/4″ A1 Plywood in desired Species or MDF if you are painting 
  • 1 – 1×3 at least 62″ Long 
  • 2 – 1×2 
  • 1 – 2 1/2 base moulding (optional) 
  • 1 – sheet of 3/8 Plywood or MDF (matching your A1 if you are staining the project) 
  • 2 – Sets of either butterfly hinges or Face Frame Euro Hinges 
  • 2 – Pulls or Knobs 
  • 8 – Shelf Pins
    Edge Banding (If you are staining the project)
Common Materials
1 1/4 inch screws
2 inch screws
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
wood conditioner
paint brush
Cut List
  • A) 1 – 1×24 @ 60 1/2″ (Bottom) 
  • B) 2 – 1×24 @ 19 1/4″ (Middle Partitions) 
  • C) 2 – 1×24 @ 21 3/4″ (Sides) 
  • D) 1 – 1×24 @ 62″ (Top) 
  • E) 1- 3/8″ Plywood or MDF @ 62″ x 22 1/2″ (Back) 
  • F) 1- 1×3 @ 62″ (Bottom Trim) 
  • G) 2 – 1×2 @ 62″ (Top Trim and Top Edge Trim) 
  • H) 2 – 1×2 @ 17 3/4″ (Side Trim)
    Optional Base Moulding, 2 1/2″ overall height, 62″ Long
    2 – 1×24 @ 28″ (Shelves)
    Door Cut List – Recommend measuring the opening in the drawer and building the drawer 1/4″ smaller thean the overall opening. Remember that the door will cover the middle partitions, as shown in the diagrams. These dimensions give are the ideal door dimensions. 
  •  I) 2 – 3/8″ Plywood or MDF @ 17 1/4″ x 15 1/4″ (Backs of Doors) 
  • J) 4 – 3/8″ Plywood or MDF @ 1 1/2″ x 15 1/4″ (Rails on the Doors) 
  • K) 4 – 3/8″ Plywood or MDF @ 1 1/2″ x 14 1/4″ (Stiles on the Doors)
Cutting Instructions

A 1x24 is simply 3/4" plywood ripped into 23 1/2" wide strips, 8 feet long. You can get two 1x24s out of each sheet of plywood. This system is used to ease building, creating straighter cuts, and conserve wood. Most plans on use standard width boards for these reasons and more.
If you cannot find 3/8″ plywood, you can use 1/2″ plywood for the backs and 1/4″ stock (for example maple 1/4″ thick x 1 1/2″ wide). Hobby stock is available at our local Blue store in a wide variety.

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Cut your 3/4″ Plywood or MDF into strips 23 1/2″ wide by 8′ long. These strips become 1×24 boards. From 2 of the 1×24 boards, cut the the top and a shelf, and the bottom and a shelf. Then cut the remaining sides and middle partitions out of a third 1×24. You will have one 1×24 leftover for future projects.

Work on a clean level surface. You can fasten with nails or screws, depending on your tools and the use of this piece. Screws will hold better, nails are easier. My general rule is screw anything that will be “used” like chairs and benches, and nail sedentary pieces like bookcases and hutches. I will leave this up to you. If you are screwing, make sure you predrill and countersink your screws. If you are using MDF, avoid fastening within 1″ of the edge of the MDF. Do not use wood screws on MDF. Wood screws do not have a straight shaft and will split your MDF. I have had luck with drywall screws (after all, drywall is very similar to MDF). Make sure you predrill the entire distance of the screws. It’s going to screeech, so wear hearing protection. And glue, glue, glue.

My favorite option is to screw the “box” together, and then use finish nails to add the frame. That way the frame does not have blemishes, but the piece is built sturdy.

Make sure you take a square of the project after each step. Measure and mark out any joints before fastening. Be safe, have fun.


Step 1

Bottom and Middle Partitions. Fasten with 2″ fasteners the bottom, A, to the middle pieces, B (green) as shown above.

Step 2

Sides. Use the 2″ fasteners to fasten the sides to the bottom as shown above. There will be a 1 3/4″ clearnance under the bottom shelf.

Step 3

Top. Fasten the top to the sides and middle partitions, as shown above. Use the 2″ fasteners. Make sure you fasten the middle partitions to the measurements shown above.

Step 4

Back. Fasten the back with 1 1/4″ fasteners to the top, bottom, sides and middle partition, as shown in the above diagram.

Step 5

Step 6

Top Trim. Fasten the top trim in place, as shown above. Be sure to fasten to the middle partitions and the sides. You will not be able to fasten to the top. See next step.

Step 7

Top Edge Trim. Fasten the top edge trim in place, as shown below. Make sure you fasten through the face of the trim into the top of the project.

Step 8

Side Trim. Fasten the side trim to the base unit, as shown above. Keep outside edges flush.

Step 9

Doors. Test your backs to make sure they fit in the openings. Notice how the doors cover the middle partition. Use 5/8″ fasteners, lots of glue and clamps to fasten the rails to the back of the doors, as shown above.

Step 10

Door Stiles. Fasten the stiles, as directed in step 9, to the doors. Lay flat to dry, preferably with something heavy on top. If you are staining the project, you will need to add edge banding to the top and inside edges of the doors. This is easy and inexpensive to do (see HOW-TO section for a post on Choosing your Wood).
After you have finished the project, attach the doors to the cabinet using either butterfly hinges or euro hinges for face framed cabinets.

Step 11

Optional Base Moulding. If you would like to dress the base up, add moulding as shown above. The moulding will need to be less than 2 1/2″ in overall width.

Step 12

Shelves. Determine where you will place your shelves. Drill holes 1″ from the front and 1″ from the back on both middle partitions, 1/2″ deep, with a 1/4″ drill bit, where the base of the shelf will sit. Insert shelf pins and place your shelf in the base unit. If you are staining your base unit, you will need to add edge banding to the front edge of the shelves.

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Ana White (not verified)

Wed, 01/20/2010 - 07:49


Please refer to this post in the HOW-TO section:…

If you are wanting the stained look, you will need to use A1 plywood in maple, birch, oak or your desired hardwood. You then might as well frame the face in the matching hardwood, because there is only a few boards required for the frame. This is the more expensive route. You will also need to edge band your exposed plywood edges and the doors. This is very simple to do, and there is more information on edge banding in the link above.

On the doors, you will need to use 3/8" matching hardwood plywood, and also glue 1/2" cove base mouldings to the inside edge of the rails and stiles.

Sounds like alot, but this is going to be beautiful. The extra trim on the insides of the doors will make the piece stunning.

Plan on spending about $150. Not the 90% off that we can do on some other pieces, but a huge savings from Pottery Barn's $800 price tag.

Anonymous (not verified)

Wed, 01/20/2010 - 08:08

Thank you so much! I have been checking this site many times daily since I discovered it on Apartment Therapy. Your blog is amazing! I am so excited for the plans for the two side cabinets (or bases) - they look awesome!

Anonymous (not verified)

Wed, 01/20/2010 - 09:17

Hee hee hee - I thought that you were going to tell me about a tool in your garage which intimidated you. But no, it was a grater. :)

Glad you figured that one out. Now you can make masterpieces in the kitchen and the workshop.

Lauren (not verified)

Thu, 01/21/2010 - 08:17

Hi Ana!
We just found your site and plan on making the media bench this weekend as our first project. I'm sooo excited! I've been drooling over these for ages. I have a quick question and pardon me if its somewhere in the blog or seems very basic or silly. I've been trying to go back and read posts, but I haven't seen anything. When you say cut list, do I get these items cut at Home Depot (which is not always exact) or do I use a saw that I rent/buy? And then if I use a saw that I rent/buy do I have to set up a special bench etc to get these cuts. I'm printing everything out so we can head to the store tommmorrow and was confused. I guess I don't understand which saw you would cut the MDF with. Thanks and love your site!

Room to Inspire (not verified)

Thu, 01/21/2010 - 20:35

I just wanted to let you know I stumbled upon your blog recently and I am in love! I received my very own power tools for Christmas and I have been super excited, but ever time after I visit your blog I am truly inspired. Thanks!


Shae (not verified)

Mon, 01/25/2010 - 09:31

I just wanted to say I have never been so thankful to find a blog in my life. My Dad and I work together alot on projects and I am absolutely so excited to know I can actually build this stuff. Thank you so much! You are such a talented woman! Thank you, thank you, thank you!

Christy (not verified)

Wed, 01/27/2010 - 18:24

Hi Ana,

I've been working on this unit off an on for the past couple of days. I'm stuck on the cabinet doors. You have the measurement of the height at 7 and 1/4" for the door backs. However, when I put them on the front of the base, they're about 1/2" too short. Should they be 7 and 3/4" like the side trim? Please let me know ... I'll have to go and get some more MDF to have cut the right length if so. Thanks!

Christy (not verified)

Wed, 01/27/2010 - 18:26

Apparently, leaving comments late at night is not my strong point. LOL! I meant 17 and 3/4" for the height of the door backs (not the 7 and 3/4" that I originally said). Sorry about that.