DIY Greenhouse

Submitted by Ana White on Mon, 03/04/2019 - 16:31
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DIY Greenhouse plans - build your own DIY greenhouse, free step by step plans by


Building your own greenhouse is something you can tackle and save a ton.  We built this greenhouse about six years ago, and it still looks brand new and is as sturdy as ever.  We are happy to share our plans with you - see below.

Here's some photos of the build -

Near completion of the framing stage. We used 12' long pieces of corrugated metal roofing for the side walls.

We ran the corrugated roofing horizontal.  This was very easy to install and we have had zero issues with this design.

We also trimmed the corners out with metal flashing to make everything look nice and finished.

The greenhouse plastic wrapped right over the corrugated metal - like it was meant to be!

The only part that was slightly tricky was the ends - but really no big deal to add the greenhouse plastic panels.

Our DIY greenhouse turned out great and we are so excited to share the plans with you.

Please post a pic or share if you build!

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DIY Greenhouse

Greenhouse plans
Dimensions are shown above for the DIY Greenhouse. It's a good size for a standard family of 4 or 5


Shopping List
  • 3 - 2x4 @ 10 feet long - use on back wall
  • 5 - 2x4 @ 12 feet long - use on sides/ridgepole DO NOT CUT
  • 32 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
  • 11 - 12 foot x 26" standard corrugated plastic greenhouse panels
  • 1 - 8 foot long x 26" wide standard corrugated plastic greenhouse panel (use on door side)
  • 3 - 12 foot long tin panels (use on sides and back)
  • 1 - 8 foot long tin panel (use on front)
  • Tin screws
  • 28 - 4' long ribbing strips
  • L flashing (optional for the corners)
  • You'll need either metal gussets for the trusses or to cut plywood ones from 1/2" plywood
Common Materials
3 inch screws
Cut List

Cut list is in plan at each step

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Drill Bit Set


Step 1

Back wall framing.  Cut 2x4s as listed below.  Screw together with 3" screws or nail together.

  • 2 – 2x4 @ 118 3/8”
  • 6 – 2X4 @ 32”


Step 2

Side Wall Framing - Build TWO

  • 4 – 2X4 @ 144”
  • 14 – 2X4 @ 32”


Step 3

Front Wall Framing

  • 4 – 2X4 @ 32”
  • 4 – 2X4 @ 42 ½”
  • 2 – 2X4 @ 81 ½”
  • 1 – 2X4 @ 33 3/8”

Build the front walls as shown.

Step 4

Attach the four walls together with 3" screws at corners.

Step 5

Step 6

  • 1 – 2X4 @ 117 7/8” (BOTH ENDS CUT AT 22 1/2" DEGREES, ENDS NOT PARALLEL)
  • 1 – 2X4 @ 55 3/8 (TOP CUT TO DOGEARED POINT, 22 ½ DEGREES)

The back truss is built same as front. See next step for close up of the center cuts

Step 7

This board was a little tricky to cut - practice first!

Step 8

1 – 2X4 @ 141”

NOTE: If you use gussets - we used 1/2" plywood - this will affect your ridgepole length. 

Step 9



  • 10 2X4 @ 47 1/4” (BOTH ENDS CUT AT 22 ½ DEGREES ENDS NOT PARALLEL) - shorter rafters go up to meet the ridgepole.  I marked all shorter rafters to avoid confusion.


For the common rafters of this barn style greenhouse, we ended up using plywood gussets to save money. After cutting quite a few, I figured out how to cut gussets the super quick and easy way - got gusset cutting down to less than a minute each.

We put gussets on both sides of each rafter joint with glue and screws. We made all of the small trusses first on the ground, then it was just a matter of stacking them on the ridgepole and attaching to the studs. We used 8 screws per gusset. Common rafters are installed flush to top of ridgepole and flush to outside of side walls. We had to "toenail" the screws in - meaning they are screwed in at an angle. We used glue and 3" screws from both sides.

Step 10

The plan will get you through the framing.

At this point, you could use plastic paper, lexan glass panels, you name it to seal the frame in.

We used the corrugated plastic panels detailed earlier for installation. IMPORTANT: If you do not use panels you will need some sort of lateral support to keep the greenhouse from swaying side to side. Try 12 foot long 2x4s. 

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.



Mon, 01/14/2013 - 03:42

When you want to get a project done you should start as soon as you can or else you have to keep postponing it every time. But before you start you should do a little research on the project, you have to be sure of the materials that you need and their quantity. When it comes to paint colors you learn about the The Hottest Paint Colors and pick the one you like best.

Amyah (not verified)

Tue, 01/15/2013 - 12:29

What a wonderful project. Where I live -- I rent -- there was a greenhouse, once upon a time, but it collapse as nobody took care of it. Sad! But, the huge ciment pad with drainage and else is still there as wel as the anchors all around. it would be a great idea to do something with this. Electricity, water is still there and working.

Hope you will post some photos of the wonder in full production! Will you? As for the inside, will you put just tables all around or make raised beds?

Other question... I see you put a metallic frming all around. Did you put some insulation also to go further in time in your production?

Looking forward to read about the evolution of your project


Sun, 01/27/2013 - 10:59


I just discovered this plan. Yes, yes, please, oh, please on the shed plans. We really need a shed now that my newly found love of building has taken over the garage. I would really like to build a shed and I love this design, maybe with a few of the clear panels for skylights?

Thank you for everything you do and for inspiring me to learn the best hobby ever!


Fri, 04/19/2013 - 12:13

For venting you could use an old storm door with screened window instead of a solid door if your door dimensions are standard.


Mon, 10/14/2013 - 13:20

The Lexan / SunTuff Corrugated Panels need to be installed horizontally and foam gaskets / inserts used instead of wood. They are called the Greco Profile.
Rain or snow water and moisture eventually rot the wood because water will leak in. Also snow will pile up causing stress on the rafters, rain will not run off and will leak into the gable ends.
Here's a link for Lexan Corrugated Polycarbonate panel installation.

Here's a video to help you:

Actually the metal side walls should be vertical as well but that is not as critical as the corrugated panels being propely installed.
The Gambrel frame is okay but I don't understand why they didn't use a waterproofing stain even on the interior,
It seems you get a lot of visitors so you need to tell them to do it correctly or your followers will be sorry they used your plans. I'm not trying to be a boor just trying to help. I build cedar greenhouses covered with Lexan Corrugated. Anna if you need advice or assistance you can email me


Sat, 04/26/2014 - 12:49

I found this greenhouse last year when I was searching for plans. I added it to my list. Well, a year has come and gone, and I am going to build it this summer. I read the comments about the way you ran the Lexan, and I am just has your greenhouse held up? I was going to follow your plans exactly, but if you have had any problems with it, I'll apply the Lexan vertically. It just looks easier to do it the way you have it in the plans. And, if it is doing well, why should I fix something that isn't broken. LOL


Mon, 06/16/2014 - 08:57

Curious to know if the open door is all you would need for ventilation, since it's a smaller greenhouse?

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