Very simple to build kids bed frame using 2x4 and 2x6 lumber. Free step by step plans with diagrams and shopping and cut list from Ana-White.com
It's hard to find an affordable, sturdy, nice looking kids bed. If you go affordable, it may not make it through childhood. But it's hard to spend the money for a quality bed, when you know they will outgrow it quickly.
Have you thought about DIYing your own twin bed frame?
For about the cost of a boxspring, you can!
DIY Twin Bed Frame Features
- Very easy to build with basic tools (no pocket holes, simple cuts)
- No box spring or bed skirt needed
- Paint or stain any color - it's solid wood, so accepts stain well
- Sturdy, solid construction is also repairable and refinishable
- Headboard design keeps pillows on the bed
- Footboard design keeps blankets from falling off the bed
- Easy to change sheets
- Lightweight and easy to move around
Twin XL Bed Frame Option
A twin XL bed frame is simply 5" longer. This plan is easy to modify to a twin xl and directions are given in the plan.
Daybed Option
Here's a quick diagram for building as a daybed.
Full Size Option
For the full size option, I recommend center legs. The easiest way is to add a center cleat and then legs off it. You are just looking to take some of the weight off the center, so nothing fancy is required.
Free Plans for Twin Bed Frame
Pin For Later!
Preparation
- 1 - 2x4x10 (2 for full size bed
- 3 - 2x6x10 (4 for full size bed)
- 2 - 2x2x8
- 4 - 1x4x6 - for twin xl bed frame, add another 1x4x6 and four more short screws (5 - 1x4x10' for full size bed)
- 50 - 2-1/2" long self tapping star bit screws
- 32 - 1-5/8" long self tapping star bit screws
2 - 2x4 @ 22-1/2" - footboard legs
2 - 2x4 @ 37" - headboard legs
5 - 2x6 @ 38" - headboard and footboard rails (54" for full size)
2 - 2x6 @ 76-1/2" - siderails (81-1/2" for twin xl bed frame)
2 - 2x2 @ 76-1/2" - cleats (81-1/2" for twin xl bed frame)
8 - 1x3 or 1x4 @ 35" - slats (for twin xl bed frame, cut two more slats)
For full size bed, a 2x4 down the center lengthwise is required to support the slats. A 5th "leg" from the 2x4 will support the center of the mattress.
Cut the boards with a circular saw or miter saw.
A miter saw is quicker, safer and more precise and is recommended.
A circular saw can be used, but you will need a square to mark cuts and be able to make straight cuts with the saw. Practice first, with boards elevated on styrofoam, or scrap wood.
Sand all 2x4 and 2x6 boards first with 120 grit sandpaper. You can also prefinish at this step, or after building the headboard and footboard.
Instructions
Step 1
FOOTBOARD
To build the footboard, work from the top down and use scrap wood 2x4s to help get you spacing right.
On a flat level surface, attach the two footboard legs to the top 2x6 rail, with two long screw per end. Back edges are flush.
Use scrap 2x4 pieces to space the lower rail in the footboard. Attach with two screws per end.
Step 2
HEADBOARD
Repeat the same steps for the headboard, starting at the top and working down.
Step 3
PREFINISH the headboard, footboard, and two 2x6 siderails. The 2x2 cleats and 1x3 slats do not need to be prefinished.
In the room, attach the siderails to the headboard legs and footboard legs with the longer screws. Make sure the headboard and footboard are level as you attach. Screws at slight angles are stronger. Space screws wide, but not to close to edges as this may split the wood (leave about 3/4" from edge).
Twin xl bed frame option: Cut siderails to 81-1/2"
Step 4
Attach the 2x2 cleat to the inside of the siderails with the longer screws.
Twin xl bed frame option: Cut cleats to 81-1/2"
Step 5
Lay slats on cleats and screw down with the shorter screws. Two screws per slat.
Stain or paint as desired.
A light sanding of 220 sandpaper between paint coats will deliver a smooth finish.
