This stunning (and extra sturdy!) Farmhouse King Bed frame costs just a fraction to build vs buy. It's made of solid wood and you won't need a ton of tools to whip it out. You'll love the step by step diagrams, shopping list and cut list.
We also have Queen Farmhouse Bed Plans, and check out our full room build with this bed and matching nightstands.
The very first real project that I ever tackled all by myself was this EXACT Farmhouse Bed in King size.
I remember being stunned at how well the project turned out. And here we are, over a decade later, and it's still just as beautiful, just as sturdy, and I'm just as stunned.
The farmhouse beds have been built thousands of times and is a reader favorite.
What Wood Do You Use
We use standard off the shelf lumber to build - just framing lumber and common boards. You can of course build with any type of wood, just make sure your material dimensions match dimensional lumber sizes (for example a 2x4 is actually 1-1/2" x 3-1/2").
Matching Nightstands
This bed is quite substantial and deserves matching nightstands. I have put together nightstand plans that are designed to match - so you can get a full bedroom furniture set!
Updated Farmhouse King Bed Plans
We have updated these plans to be easier to build and not require pocket holes. You can still access the old plans here.
If you need a different sized farmhouse bed, check out all our farmhouse bed plans here.
Preparation
2 - 4x4, 8 feet long
1 - 2x2, 8 feet long
7 - 1x6, 8 feet long
4 - 1x4, 8 feet long
2 - 2x6, 8 feet long OR stud length
2 - 1x10 OR 2x10 @ 8 feet long
18* - 2x4, 8 feet long OR stud length
2 small L brackets (1-1/2" wings)
2 straight brackets (6" overall length)
150 - 1-1/4" brad nails
150 - 2-1/2" self tapping wood screws (try SPAX or similar)
*Includes 11 2x4s for the mattress slats. You can substitute 1x4s, 1x3s, ripped plywood etc for the slats if you have other materials on hand
HEADBOARD CUT LIST
2 - 4x4 @ 54" - headboard legs
2 - 2x2 @ 30" - headboard cleats
14 - 1x6 @ 30" - headboard panel
2 - 1x4 @ about 77" - measure and cut to fit
1 - 2x4 @ about 84" - measure and cut to fit
1 - 2x6 @ about 86" - measure and cut to fit
FOOTBOARD CUT LIST
2 - 4x4 @ 21" - footboard legs
2 - 2x2 @ 8" - footboard cleats
2 - 2x2 @ 3" - footboard cleats
14 - 1x6 @ 15" - footboard panel
2 - 1x4 @ about 77" - measure and cut to fit
1 - 2x4 @ about 84" - measure and cut to fit
1 - 2x6 @ about 86" - measure and cut to fit
MATTRESS SUPPORT FRAME/SIDERAILS
4 - 2x4 @ 83-1/2" - mattress supports
1 - 2x4 @ ~77" - headboard tie in - cut to fit
4 - 2x4 @ 12-1/2" - center legs
2 - 1x10 or 2x10 @ 80"
11 - 2x4 @ ~77" cut to fit - mattress slats
Instructions
Step 1
Attach 2x2 cleats flush to the back of the legs, with 2-1/2" screws
NOTE: Pocket hole users can skip this step
Step 2
Layout the 1x6 headboard panels, and measure the overall width.
Cut 1x4 boards to this measurement.
Attach 1x6 boards to the 1x4s with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails from the back side to hide nail holes.
Make sure you apply glue between the 1x6 boards as you go.
Check to make sure that the panel is constructed square (NOT a parallelogram)
POCKET HOLE USERS: Attach 1x4s to the 4x4 legs with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. Then nail the 1x6s to the 1x4s inside the headboard panel.
Step 3
Attach panel to the 2x2 cleats with 2-1/2" screws and glue. Also attach with a few 1-1/4" nails through front side into the 2x2 cleat where there is no 1x4.
POCKET HOLE USERS can skip this step
Step 4
Measure the top overall width. Cut a 2x4 to this width. Attach with glue and screws to top of headboard.
Step 5
Cut a 2x6 2" longer than the 2x4.
Attach with 1" overhang on all sides with 2-1/2" screws and glue.
This completes the headboard build.
Step 6
The footboard is constructed the same as the headboard, with the exception of the 2x2 cleats on the back so that the siderail cleats can notch in.
If you have trouble with your smaller 2x2 splitting try predrilling holes.
Step 7
Finish construction of the footboard exactly as you did the headboard.
Step 8
Attach siderail cleats inside the footboard and to the headboard legs. Use 2-1/2" screws to secure.
This completes the footboard.
Consider painting or staining your footboards and headboards and siderails now - then move all the pieces into the room for final assembly.
Step 9
Attach headboard support piece between the siderail cleats.
Step 10
Build the center legs - space the legs about 1/3 the way down - you don't have to be exact here.
Step 11
Attach the center legs inside the bed, splitting the spacing by about 1/3
Step 12
Attach siderails to the siderail cleats.
We recommend using brackets to attach siderails at the top to the headboard and footboard.
POCKET HOLE USERS: Drill a pocket hole at the top and attach.
Step 13
Cut slats and lay about 4" apart in the bed.
Screw down with 2-1/2" screws.
Comments
justinorr (not verified)
Sun, 09/19/2010 - 12:45
Just finished my king size
Just finished my king size farmhouse bed. It looks great! Thanks for the plans Ana. It can be seen in the photos section. (My Farmhouse Bed 1 and My Farmhouse Bed 2). It has the red and white plaid comforter. I used a flat black paint and attempted to distress. Also I found a good altenrative to the 1x8's is using a product called "Barn Siding" that I found at Lowe's. I think this will make the project cheaper and easier. On to night stands.....
Guest (not verified)
Mon, 05/09/2011 - 17:01
Barn Siding
Curious about the barn siding. Cannot find pictures of your finished product. Could you post a link?
Ginny Haines (not verified)
Sat, 10/02/2010 - 06:14
Please don't call this King
Please don't call this King Size if it is not the plans for the standard orientation of a king size bed! You suggested to a previous poster that they just need to re-size the head and foot-boards, but having plans, a buy list and a cut list would be much appreciated for REAL king size. Please reformat the plans for standard king size if you have some spare (ha!) time.
Christy Allen (not verified)
Sat, 10/16/2010 - 05:45
I LOVE this bed but do not
I LOVE this bed but do not have the skill to convert these measurements to a normal king size bed 76 w x 80 L. Could you please post these in a buying and cutting list.
Thanks soooo much.. I was just introduced to this site and it is phenomenal!
kyrsteno (not verified)
Thu, 10/28/2010 - 15:13
I just have a quick question-
I just have a quick question- how would you replace the individual panel peices, for a full panel peice?
Mags (not verified)
Sun, 10/31/2010 - 04:10
Why are you letting your
Why are you letting your daughter sleep in your bed with you?
ashlee (not verified)
Tue, 11/02/2010 - 16:31
because mags- cosleeping is
because mags- cosleeping is amazing, and one of the best things you can do to build and maintain a close family bond! children will move to their own beds when they feel secure enough in them to do so!!
ana..!!!! THANK YOU! loove it.
Parie (not verified)
Tue, 11/09/2010 - 17:23
Hi there! Your talents are
Hi there!
Your talents are incredible! I visit your blog often hoping that someday I will actually tackle one of the plans. I have a question...are the plans on this page for the 80x60 or 76x80. I have never attempted to build anything myself and I want to make sure I'm doing all the right measurements.
Thank you,
Paralee
Katrina (not verified)
Sun, 11/28/2010 - 08:16
I have noticed that quite a
I have noticed that quite a few people have requested plans for a standard King size bed and not plans for one that has been turned side ways. Has anyone figured out the measurements or has it been posted somewhere on the web site. I am another one of the followers that is intimidated and frustrated trying to figure it out myself and I don't want to waste a bunch of money buying wood and messing the bed up. Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
Bed Building |… (not verified)
Mon, 11/29/2010 - 08:21
[...] found some plans online
[...] found some plans online at Ana White’s blog (the blog star formally known as Knock-off Wood) and they provided just enough info for Jeremy to [...]