Modern bookcases that display and store. Works with our Mod Modular Collection.
Do you ever feel like our site is just a little skewed toward furnishings suitable for little girls?
There is actually a good reason for that.
Technically, three good reasons. If you haven't met my inspiration, here is my daughter Grace (the one in the hand-me-down leggings) and the girl that made the holes in the leggings, my niece, Hannah, and quite possibly the cutest little strawberry blonde ever, my niece Clara. Oh, and the other cutie is the hubs otherwise known as the real Alaska Man (or RAM).
So this is why you see lots of pink, playhouse beds, dollhouse bookcases, and just about every photo I share is taken in a pink room.
But today, I thought I would work on something more geared toward those that are not three years old.
The intention to put together an office set of plans in an edgier, more modern, more West Elmish vibe has been nagging at me for months. And today, when my West Elm catalog showed up in the mail, I found some major inspiration from this bookshelf.
And how about shortening it to an end table, like this end table? Same height, but just 20" shorter. All you would have to do is subtract 20" from the top, bottom, shelf, long legs and side trim. Everything else stays exactly the same. Come to think of it, you may just have the scraps leftover to build it as a bonus from the bookshelf!
I wanted this design to have the chunky look like West Elm's, so I added a frame to the sides. Also, I love using frames because it takes away the need for edge banding for a stained product. Don't get me wrong, I love edge banding. But if given the choice, framing is cheaper, easier, longer lasting and creates more structure to your piece than edge banding. That said, in the diagram, I did not face frame the shelves, so you may need to apply edge banding there or to add face framing (I'll leave that up to you) if you choose to stain your finished product.
5 feet of 1×10 boards
1 Sheet of 3/4″ Plywood (for Staining) or 3/4″ MDF (for painting), cut into 15 1/2″ wide strips, 8′ long
2 – 2×2 Boards, 8′ Long
4 – 1×2 Board, 8′ Long
2″ Screws or 1 1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws
2″ Finish nails
Edge banding for staining
1 – 1×16 @ 47 1/4″ (Top)
1 – 1×16 @ 46 1/2″ (Bottom)
1 – 1×16 @ 24 1/4″ (Middle Divider)
1 – 1×16 @ 25 3/4″ (Closed End)
1 – 1×16 @ 37″ (Long Shelf)
2 – 1×10 @ 26 1/2″ (Small Shelf Sides)
1 – 1×16 @ 8 3/4″ (Small Shelf)
4 – 1×2 @ 37 3/4″ (Side Trim)
4 – 1×2 @ 23 1/2″ (Closed End Trim)
2 – 1×2 @ 17″ (Small Shelf Trim)
2 – 2×2 @ 46 1/2″ (Floating Base Sides)
2 – 2×2 @ 12 1/2″ (Floating Base Ends)
Have your hardware store cut your plywood into three 15 1/2″ wide strips, 8′ long. These boards will be called 1x16s throughout this plan (and this entire site) and all scraps can be used for any plan calling for a 1×16 board.
Build the Box
Measure the joints and mark out on all boards. If you are using a Kreg Jig™, drill pocket holes (you will need 1 1/4″ pocket holes screws). If you are using 2″ wood screws, predrill screw holes. Add glue and screw together.
Closed End Trim
Attach the closed end trim to the closed end. Also, if the shelf is not fixed, attach to the shelf. Use 2″ finish nails and glue. If you are using a Kreg Jig™, build your face frames separately, then nail the entire face frame on as a whole.
Small Bookshelf Trim
Attach the bottom and top trim to the small bookshelf. Use 2″ finish nails and glue. If you are using a Kreg Jig™, build the face frame first, then attach the entire face frame using 2″ finish nails and glue.