The outdoor chaise lounge gets a modern twist! Build your own and save money, using off the shelf lumber and step by step plans from Ana-White.com
Special thanks to Wiscousonian for reader submitted photos.
Fits Standard Cushion Size
This plan fits a cushion size with seat 48" x 30" and back 24" x 30". You can easily alter the dimensions to fit different sized cushions.
Matching Double Chaise Lounge Plans Also Available
We have also created matching double width outdoor chaise lounges plans for your convenience. You can find those plans here.
Matching Leftovers Wood Side Table Plans
You will have some scrap wood 1x4s leftover when you are done. We have created a plan to use the leftover 1x4s to create a side table.
The side table plans are at the bottom of the double chaise lounge plans here (scroll to bottom).
Updated Plans
This plan has been updated to increase the strength of the base (2x4s instead of 1x4s). The overall size changed as well. If you need the old plans, you can find them here.
Preparation
- 2 - 2x4 @ 10 feet long
- 2 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
- 7 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long
- 2 sets of 3" hinges suitable for exterior use
- 2-1/2" exterior self tapping wood screws
- 2" exterior self tapping wood screws
- Exterior wood glue
Main Chair
- 2 - 2x4 @ 75" - frame
- 4 - 2x4 @ 24-1/2" - frame
- 4 - 2x4 @ 11-1/4" - legs
- 2 - 2x2 @ 27" - cleats
- 2 - 1x4 @ 78" - side slats
- 6 - 1x4 @ 48" - main slats
- 6 - 2x2 @ 3" - stop blocks
Back
- 6 - 1x4 @ 30" - back slats
- 4 - 2x2 @ 23-1/2" - back supports
- 2 - 2x4 @ 10" - prop supports
Cut all boards using a compound miter saw or circular saw with guide.
Instructions
Step 1
To build this lounger, you can either use the Kreg Jig (pocket hole recommendations shown above) or self tapping wood screws.
Pocket Holes
The advantage of pocket holes is no visible fasteners. If you are using a cushion, this will cover all the fasteners, so this may or may not be as important to you.
When joining 2x to 2x boards, the setting is 1-1/2" with 2-1/2" pocket hole screws. When joining 2x to 1x boards, use the 3/4" setting and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.
Step 2
Build the frame, using either 2-1/2" screws or the Kreg Jig. Make sure that the frame is very square.
Step 3
Attach legs to the outside of the frame with 2-1/2" screws.
Step 4
Screw cleats inside the frame, four screws per cleat. 2-1/2" self tapping screws.
Step 5
Attach decking to the top of the chaise lounge with 2" self tapping screws.
Step 6
Build the back piece with 2" screws into the backs of the 2x2s.
Step 7
Build the back support as shown. Make sure the 2x4s are set in 2" from the ends of the 2x2s.
Hinge to the back rest.
Step 8
Hinge the entire back piece inside the chaise lounge opening.
Step 9
Install the stop blocks as shown.
You can alter the locations, just make sure the stop blocks don't interfere with the back closing flat.
Step 10
Now take some of the 1x2 scraps and create stops as shown above to hold the prop up in place. You can space these at any desired location.
We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.
Comments
Wiscousonian (not verified)
Mon, 04/25/2011 - 05:15
YAY thanks for making and
YAY thanks for making and sharing these plans ANA! Glad to see you used my photos too!
In reply to YAY thanks for making and by Wiscousonian (not verified)
Ana White
Mon, 04/25/2011 - 10:45
Thank you for sharing your beautiful photo!
You inspired me! Thank you, your photos are just so beautiful! I love how you kept your boards the same, even on the back rest. Clever and classy.
In reply to Thank you for sharing your beautiful photo! by Ana White
cathybchicago
Tue, 04/26/2011 - 08:06
Single Lounger - adding wheels?
Any suggestions on how we could add wheels to the back of this for ease of maneuverability?
wiscousonian (not verified)
Fri, 04/29/2011 - 07:58
Wheels
Not sure about wheels, it might change how sturdy these are. The legs help ground the chair so that it doesn't flex much. With wheels id be afraid of the legs taking a lot of horizontal stress because the wheels will want to fold back, whereas with legs only they cant move so the weight is forced down...make any sense? Also they are not that heavy that they are not movable if you're following the sunny areas around your yard throughout the day.
Amy @ this DIY life (not verified)
Mon, 04/25/2011 - 10:37
So excited for the return of
So excited for the return of plans for the simple modern outdoor collection! My first chair was from this collection and I'm loving this lounger! Time to break in the Kreg!
Guest (not verified)
Mon, 04/25/2011 - 11:10
Type of wood?
What type of wood did you use on this Single Lounger for the Simple Modern Outdoor Collection? I love the lounger and will build this in the next couple of weeks.
Wiscousonian (not verified)
Mon, 04/25/2011 - 12:34
In the above photos I used
In the above photos I used Cedar that i sanded and polyurethaned very thoroughly with about 4 coats. they are very glossy and smooth!
Darb1001
Mon, 04/11/2016 - 06:51
Lounger Cost
Where did you find the materials for less than $50? Just the wood ran almost $70 and that was rough on one side so I had to run it through my planer a couple of times.
Guest (not verified)
Mon, 04/25/2011 - 16:24
Very nice. Thank you for the details.
I really want to build on soon, I have been saving up some cedar for one of these. The photos are great and it is very helpful to see where the holes are put. Thanks again great photos. Love your pool too!
Guest (not verified)
Mon, 06/27/2011 - 21:48
Wheels
Wheels could be mounted on simple struts that would extend out the back of the legs, so they're off the ground when it's in the 'resting' position, but when you lift the opposite end the angle would put the wheels in contact with the ground. Just a thought.