Build this end table! DIY this end table with free plans from Ana White!
Can you believe that these end tables were built for $33?
Considering this design is inspired by Pottery Barn Sawyer end tables, retailing for $399 + $20 surcharge a piece, also made of pine ...
I'll do the math for you ...
[$399 + $20] X 2 = $838
Guess what this end table was made for?
$16.50.
Or two for $33.
That's an over $800 price difference.
And bonus - you can stain or paint any color of your choice.
If you haven't already picked up a saw and started cutting, grabbed a drill and started building, I'm encouraging you to give it a go.
If you don't have the tools, experience, or even a work space, do not despair. Look around your home and draw inspiration from how you would like to make it better for your family. Cling to that inspiration, and call your dad, ask your neighbor, beg the nice person at the home improvement store - do what you need to to make your home better, no matter your budget or circumstances.
I worked with Ashley from Shanty2Chic on this project. Like many of us, Ashley is a working mom, with children at home. She wrote me last night saying, I'll have pictures to you after baseball is over. Because Ashley, like me, is just another mom trying to improve her home on a budget. If we can do this, you certainly can as well.
I can't wait to see your handmade Truss Tables! They are going to be lovely.
PS - If you are interested in designing your own plans, I'm sharing my most secret tips, today's tip is on drawing angles the easy way.
PSS - If you like this graphic, I show you how to make these graphics the super quick way, using software that you probably already have!
PSSS - Of course the coffee table is DIY too! Build your own with these free plans!
Preparation
2 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
2 – 2x3 @ 8 feet long
1 – 2x2 @ 6 feet long
1 – 1x2 @ 4 feet long
1 1/4” and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws
*If you can't find 2x3s - a 2x6 can be ripped in half to make two 2x3s. They should measure 2 1/2" wide x 1 1/2" thick.
4 – 2x3 @ 27” (Both ends cut at 10 degree bevel/5 degree angle, parallel, long point to short point)
2 – 2x3 @ 9 3/4" (both ends cut at 5 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel, long point to long point)
2 – 2x3 @ 13" (both ends cut at 5 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel, long point to long point)
2 – 2x2 @ 26 1/4" (both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel, long point to long point)
5 – 2x4 @ 31 1/2"
2 – 1x2 @ 24” (cut angles in last step)
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Instructions
Step 1
I always do this because with small angles - especially double angles - it will get confusing which way is which. It's the little things that save the time!
Step 2
With the legs marked, add the aprons. Pay close attention to this diagram. The top apron is flush on top to the outside, but will NOT be on the inside, which is hidden under the seat.
Build two that are identical.
NOTE: Pocket hole users may wish to drill 1 1/2" pocket holes along top INSIDE edge of each end for attaching top in step 4.
Step 3
Once you have the ends built, it's time to add the side supports.
Step 4
I recommend building your tabletop first with pocket holes - 1 1/2" PH with 2 1/2" PH screws - and then attaching to leg sides.
Step 5
Step 6
For more photos and tips, and finishing information, please visit Ashley at Shanty 2 Chic.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Comments
Dawn Samuels (not verified)
Tue, 03/27/2012 - 12:06
Truss End Table
Love this! I have admired these for years but always croaked at the price. I am hoping to give them a shot this spring!
Guest (not verified)
Tue, 03/27/2012 - 12:19
truss table
can't pull up the PDF file - it gives an ERROR message
Ana White
Tue, 03/27/2012 - 12:30
Awesome Dawn! Glad this plan
Awesome Dawn! Glad this plan will help you out!
For PDFs - I am trying to get the issue fixed - so sorry for the trouble. An alternative method is to view printer version http://ana-white.com/print/5104 and then print that version as a PDF to save for building.
sueslager
Tue, 03/27/2012 - 13:15
YES!!
I love these ... I've been wanting to branch out from 90degree angles ... this may be the reason!
thanks for so many awesome plans ... we too live where you make it or make do (or pay too much to have it shipped) ... i'm finding so many great ideas to fill our home!
Guest (not verified)
Tue, 03/27/2012 - 13:23
bevel for trusses
great plans!!! looks straightforward till the last step - are the trussed bevelled and angled? if so, what is the bevel (5 or 10 degrees)? shouldn't the `top' just be angled (sitting against the level table top)?
Ana White
Tue, 03/27/2012 - 13:50
The truss part ends are just
The truss part ends are just beveled. The ends are only cut at 36 and 26 degree bevels - no double bevel here. However, it's kinda funky to cut these because the measurements differ. What I suggest doing is cutting one end with a 26 degree bevel, then just move your board down without rotating the board, adjust the saw to a 36 degree bevel, in the same direction (so just move the saw bevel over 10 degrees in the same direction) and cut the second bevel. Make sense?
In reply to The truss part ends are just by Ana White
4U2C
Thu, 07/12/2012 - 14:25
Having so much fun making virtual saw dust in Sketchup
Having so much fun making virtual saw dust in Sketchup while trying to duplicate some of these great projects but, I am having a problem that I hope Ana, or someone can answer.
I understand the 10 degree bevel/5 degree angle on a real miter saw, but am having a hard time reproducing this in Sketchup. Please tell me what I'm doing wrong ;)
In Sketchup I perform the following steps:
1. Draw a 2"x3" square
2. Extrude this 27"
3. (here's where I think I'm going astray) I select the protractor and click on the top left corner of a 3" wide edge, then click again to the right along the same 3" edge, I then rotate 10 degrees and click to confirm the angle. I repeat this on both sides of the 3" faces.
4. Draw a line from the starting point of where the protractor drew a line, to the point where the end of the 3" side intersects at 10 degrees (which appears to be 1/2") and repeat on both sides
5. Looking at the 2" side, I draw a line from the 10 degree intersection I previously made, clicking straight across a second time, then rotating 5 degrees and creating a marker.
6. Create a line that intersects the 10 degree intersection and the newly created intersection that was created with the 5 degree marker.
I can delete each polygon and have the shape I need for the face (top of the 2"x3" piece), but I do not have a face on the end... appears hollow. How do I close this? I can't extrude or move the edges... when I select all 4 edges that I want to create a polygon on, the selection disappears when I select push/pull or move.
I wrote this as I created the object to hopefully give the best description... hopefully there is a simple fix?
Thanks
Matt
ksperk01
Fri, 07/12/2019 - 05:25
Angles and Bevels
Do you have or would you consider doing a tutorial on bevels and off square cuts?
Oosumsauce
Tue, 03/27/2012 - 13:51
Bevels
I'm new to all this and haven't even put my hands on my (I mean my husbands) saw yet so I'm confused about this bevel thing. Can you explain it to me?
In reply to Bevels by Oosumsauce
Ana White
Tue, 03/27/2012 - 15:06
Hi an angle would be like
Hi an angle would be like cutting a piece of a pie, where the cut is made at an angle. A bevel would be instead of cutting with the knife at an angle, you instead angle the blade so the cut is straight across, but as it goes down, angles to one direction or another. Make sense? The saw will do most of the work for you if you have a compound miter saw.