Community Brag Posts

Simple Square Cedar Outdoor Dining Table

Submitted by Finns-Dad on Mon, 03/12/2012 - 17:58

I've been planning on building a patio table for this coming spring and summer, but didn't know where to begin. I found Ana's wonderful site and now I don't know where to stop! So many great ideas.
After seeing ewood's great table I decided to make one similar. I made my square table based on Ana's and ewood's basic designs. Thank you both. I also made a bench based on Ana's design.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
300--475
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Semigloss Spar Urethane
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

7CsShepherds (not verified)

Thu, 03/29/2012 - 07:37

I have a family of 7 (soon to be 8, I hope), and was trying to figure out how to fit us all on the rectangular table. This is the solution! I can simply make 4 benches to go with it! Thanks for the idea and the picture!

Guest (not verified)

Mon, 04/09/2012 - 07:24

Love this table and your modifications to ewood's table. I was wondering what size are the legs on your table - I can't tell if they are 4x4s...which is sort of what I'd like to have on mine. And they are under mounted, which I love because I want to make ours with the ability to remove the legs for reduced storage space in the winter. If you could would you mind putting a few close up photos of how the outside corner came out and the underside of the corners. It would be much appreciated.

K_W (not verified)

Mon, 04/09/2012 - 07:27

Love this table and your modifications to ewood's table. I was wondering what size are the legs on your table - I can't tell if they are 4x4s...which is sort of what I'd like to have on mine. And they are under mounted, which I love because I want to make ours with the ability to remove the legs for reduced storage space in the winter. If you could would you mind putting a few close up photos of how the outside corner came out and the underside of the corners. It would be much appreciated.

In reply to by K_W (not verified)

Finns-Dad

Sat, 04/14/2012 - 13:35

Hi - sorry it took a little while to get back to you. Yes the legs are 4x4's. I used knotted cedar 4x4's for the legs and made them 29" tall. I wanted to be able to disassemble the table and put it away for winter, so I attached the legs using carriage bolts, 2 per side (4 total per leg). I drilled holes using a pilot bit, then used a spatter bit to make the larger holes for the carriage bolt.

I didn't bother to counter sink them, but if I made another I think I would try that to make a more polished look. The legs are sturdy, the table doesn't wobble at all, but I am sure that someone with more furniture building experience might have a different/better idea.

I've added a couple more photos showing the corners, outside and underneath. I've also added my very basic plans that I used to make the table, one of these days I will study Ana's post of how to use sketch-up, until then this is what I worked with.

Joni

Wed, 06/06/2012 - 09:26

Can you tell me what size (width) boards you used on the frame pieces of the table, and what size on the inner boards? From your diagrams, it looks like the frame is made of 1x4s, but the inner pieces look smaller. Thank you !!!

Your table is absolutely beautiful. It looks like a very high-end piece of furniture. One of my favorite things is how the carriage bolts are installed -- I wouldn't change a thing on them!

In reply to by Joni

Finns-Dad

Tue, 07/30/2013 - 16:36

Sorry it took so long to reply - I didn't see your post. So far the table is holding up well.

You're right, the top is made from 1x4's, including the inlaid slats. To support the top, I cut 1x4's down to 1x3's so they remain hidden by the side 1x4's of the frame.

Aussie Paul (not verified)

Tue, 10/16/2012 - 18:02

Love the table - looks absolutely fantastic! I have been looking for a decent square outdoor table for ages and this one certainly fits the bill.

Can you please add a photo of the underside of the table and advise how you fastened inner boards on table top. Thanks.

In reply to by Aussie Paul (not verified)

Finns-Dad

Tue, 07/30/2013 - 16:40

I added a new photo of the bottom. Hopefully this will help show how I attached the top. I have a number of additional photo's I can send to you if you like - this site limits the number of photos I can add.

Everything is attached from the bottom to hide the screws. I used a kreg jig and it helped so much - i really recommend it.

Belmo

Wed, 08/14/2013 - 12:35

I love the look of this table, man - I think I'm gonna steal some ideas from this.

I have a question about your top, though. The slats look to be 1x4s, which I can understand, but the edges seem to be a bigger size.

Did you use 1x6 boards for the edges? 1x8s? Something else?

Thanks for your help.

Finns-Dad

Mon, 09/02/2013 - 11:03

Thank you - please take any ideas from it that you can. That is what I love that about Ana's site. You can take these great ideas and make them fit your own style...

You're right - the table top is made of 1x4's and 1x6's. When i put the top together I made the frame first. Then I added the exterior 1x6's. Next I added the center 1x6. Lastly I cut each 1x4 to size and added them.

livingston.140

Sat, 05/17/2014 - 07:15

This is an amazing table, it is beautiful! I am somewhat new to wood working and was wondering if there was a material list? I plan on creating this in AutoCAD first, so I have a visual to work off of. Also what did you use for spacing in between the boards or what was the allowance of space.

Thanks again, your work is beautiful!

livingston.140

Sat, 05/17/2014 - 07:15

This is an amazing table, it is beautiful! I am somewhat new to wood working and was wondering if there was a material list? I plan on creating this in AutoCAD first, so I have a visual to work off of. Also what did you use for spacing in between the boards or what was the allowance of space.

Thanks again, your work is beautiful!

leitaf

Wed, 04/22/2020 - 20:37

In looking at the plans and the underside of the table, there are some measurements missing that make it a little hard to decipher. It would be good to know the lumber sizes e.g. 1x4x8 etc. the underneath side seems to have some additional boards that don’t seem to be in the drawing. I was just wondering if it might be possible to get some additional details?

@njhorseplayer

Sun, 05/24/2020 - 08:05

This is a beautiful table and I'm going to try and replicate in a rectangular version. Primary question I have is what length screws you used to affix the framing pieces underneath to the top side so that the wood doesn't split and that the screws don't pop thru the top. Any help you can provide would be appreciated, if even you still look at this page. Thanks in advance!

Daughters blue Playhouse

Submitted by rysos81 on Thu, 07/23/2020 - 08:55

I used the basic framing plan for the project, but extended roof overhangs, added engineered siding / trim and cedar shake roofing. I put 2x4 bracing on for the platform.

Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate
Seasonal And Holiday

Rustic Sideboard / Buffet Table

This was our second project (though I'm proud to say that I was able to put the bulk of it together all by myself...and that's because of the miracle of the Kreg Jig pocket hole kit!)

First I had to modify the plans so that the sideboard wasn't as deep (about 16" deep...so just a couple/few inches off the original plans). Then we bought the wood. My husband helped me cut most of the pieces, and then I started drilling pocket holes. It felt like it took forever! But once that was done, I was able to put it together so quick...like an IKEA furniture! BUT! I really should have checked for SQUARE better than I did, b/c once it REALLY started coming together, things were a little off kilter... Thank goodness my husband had the patience to SAND THE HECK out of the bottom of the poor thing to level it back out. :P

The door fronts took forever...and the drawers took a while to fit in correctly (all of which my hubs did). We had left our lumber on the patio, and the second day it got rained on. It might have helped if our lumber didn't get wet (to help keep things straight and square).

The things that took the longest: squaring, leveling, doors and drawers, and the base molding (I ended up using a 2x4 and 1x2 to build my own base along the bottom...we wanted to stain the wood instead of paint it, and didn't want to pay the $$$ for paintable molding).

I used the same Rustoleum Dark Walnut stain that I had used on our Farmhouse Table...but I didn't shake it enough before using it, then left it on longer than I should have, so it is much darker than our table. Eventually may want to paint over it since it was so hard to get stain in all the nooks and crannies.

I didn't think to stain the inside of the doors. I will have to go back and paint it someday. We used particle board for the bottom and inside shelf (much cheaper than plywood). I tried staining the bottom piece, but it just soaked in the stain. So I used some dark brown spray paint instead. Worked like a charm. Planning on painting/covering the shelves one day, too.

OH! AND, I couldn't find the wider "bead board" (or whatever it is that everyone else used on their sideboards), so we used plywood as a backing, then attached some thin Poplar boards on the front for the appearance of planked boards. VERY painstaking. Would recommend a different method for that part.

(Timing: We started building this around the beginning of November, brought it in and used it before it was finished...then finished it a couple days before Christmas. Just the other day I added some drawer liners).

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$200-300 for lumber.
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Rustoleum Dark Walnut
Deft Clear Satin, 1 coat.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

hillarylouise

Wed, 02/06/2013 - 15:20

I saw your comment on my blog and had to come take a peek! It sounds like it was a challenging project, but you did a fantastic job. Beautiful!

Outdoor Sectional

I scaled back the length of the sofa by a few inches and I made the sectional only one seat to fit my space on the deck. This was my first woodworking project that I did by myself. I got the cushions for more than 1/2 off at Ikea so the whole project cost about $150 ($80 for the cushions). It took me about a week to complete but the total time was less than 10 hours to build and stain. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.

Estimated Cost
$150
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Pittsburgh Paints Stain & Sealant in One for Decks, Fences, & Siding in Walnut. I brushed on the exterior stain just like a paint. I did the top part of the sofa first, then flipped it over and stained the bottom. Read instructions on the label.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

lawn and garden shed

Submitted by brittanyj on Wed, 08/19/2015 - 13:17

Needed a shed to store bikes and mowers, etc, so I'd have more room in the woodshop : )  I made a lot of modifications to the plan to fit my space and make it much larger.  The completed size is 7 foot tall at the peak, 6 feet deep and 5.5 feet wide.  I made it as a 3 sided shed, using the wall as the 4th to save on cost, increase air flow, and make the exterior house wall accessible.  I also made an egress in the back of the shed in order to get behind the shed if needed. 

Instead of roofing shingles, I opted for ribbed metal sheets and one clear sheet in the middle to make a skylight, so there would be light in the shed.  This is my favorite part of the project.  It was a huge pain to attach the roofing from a ladder with very limited access, but it looks great and I love the light coming in.  We have very little rain in CA, so I'll have to wait until winter/rainy season in order to test out its waterproofing. 

Since the shed sits between the house and the neighbors block wall fence, and I wanted to use as much of the space as I could, I decided to design the shed to have the side wall against the house rather than the back wall, as shown in the plan.  This took a large amount of modifications, but with careful planning and measuring, it can be done.  This also meant blocking off access to behind the shed, so I cut an egress in the back wall and added hinges so you can lift the back cut out panel, and rest it on a stop block attached to the fence behind it in order to have access.  That's what woodworking is about- problem solving.  Love it. 

As you can see by the full shed picture, it fits a large amount of stuff- 2 adult bikes, mower, edger, trimmer, chainsaw, hedge trimmer, garden tools, shovels, etc, with plenty of room for more.  I now have a free corner in my garage that I've already filled with a DIY rolling workbench and more pegboard space for tool hanging.  Woodshop increased space= happy Brittany. 

I should also mention that building the frame and adding the pickets was quite a quick and easy job.  The hardest and most time consuming part was the roof (I didn't have metal cutting tools), rolling each very heavy wall to the site (I was alone) and the previous 2 weeks in which I built the paver patio the shed sits on.  Hard work, but worth it.  I love it!

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$280
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

brittanyj

Mon, 01/25/2021 - 13:15

It has been incredibly useful for storing! One thing about the skylight- Over time the sun has warped it and there is now a hole and crack there. So I wouldn't plan on the clear roofing being a long term solution- I will be replacing it with either thicker clear roofing or 2 layers.

Finally Built a Platform Bed!

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Mon, 07/25/2022 - 10:39

I've been wanting to build this bed for awhile and finally got around to it. I made a few small changes to the plans:

-I used 2x8's instead of 2x6s, so it wouldn't be so low to the ground.
-I ripped 3/8" off of the 2x8 supports in the middle so the mattress would nest inside the frame and not slide around
-I didn't add the headboard because it seemed a bit chunky/rustic for my taste. I will come back and do something else for the headboard. Maybe a cool paneled wall with built in sconces? We'll see!

Love these plans though, appreciate it!

Comments

6 seater L shaped sofa,

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 06/09/2023 - 14:37

Made this about 7 years ago from Ana's plans. Very easy to follow. I actually extended it to be a 4 and 2 seater set. Still a perfect today. Love it
Wicklow
Ireland.

Comments

Big Boy Toddler Loft Bed!

You can see the final project here: http://crabandfish.blogspot.com/2012/10/lil-archers-bed-its-done-its-do…

It was time for our son to move to a big-boy bed! We looked at tons of plans, but none were quite what I wanted. In the end, fish modified plans for Ana White's Camp Loft Bed with Stair. We wanted to make it a bit shorter because we only have 8' ceilings and there is a ceiling fan in the room. We spent about $80 for the lumber and invested in a kreg jig as well. The bed is stained with Minwax Golden Oak. We bought a 10" deep twin-sized foam mattress for the bed - if you are adding a coil mattress and boxspring, the bedside rails would definitely need to be higher.

Our son LOVES it! He is almost three and is easily able to navigate the stairs, which I don't believe will become too "baby-ish" as he grows older. If they do, the steps can easily be removed from the frame without losing structural integrity.

The underbed area has a great "cool" factor - we hang blankets to create forts, and it has become a place our son gravitates to for reading, playing, anything!

Estimated Cost
$100 for lumber and stain. Also invested in kreg jig.
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Minwax Golden Oak
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Farmhouse Storage Bed With Hidden Drawer

Submitted by Beekeeper on Wed, 12/10/2014 - 17:35

Ana, thanks for these plans! They inspired me to make my first bed build. I also want to thank all of you that added brag posts! They gave me ideas for some of the modifications that I made. I did this build by mixing your Queen Farmhouse and Queen Farmhouse Storage bed plans. I also added a number of modifications to suit my own preferences. The drawer boxes I changed by building a faceplate (I didn't want the plywood ends exposed), and by increasing in depth to maximize some additional storage. Since I increased the drawer sizes, I went with the euro roller bearing slides. I increased the foot-board height to be slightly higher than the mattress. I also designed the footboard to have a removable inner section with hidden latches on the inside. I did this because I wanted to make use of the "dead space" between the drawer boxes. I then used this space to house a hidden drawer, that is approx six feet deep (I couldn't help myself-I love hidden drawers wink). Because I added the hidden drawer, I changed the opptional center support to 4X4 blockes that were pocket screwed under the center of the boxes. I ended up using birch plywood and fir for this build. For my first bed build I'm fairly happy with how it came out. Thanks again!

Estimated Cost
I didn't keep exact track of the cost of this bed, but I think it was about $800.
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
I haven't got there yet, but I am planning on putting a mahogany stain and then a polyurethane. All
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

spiceylg

Thu, 12/11/2014 - 07:41

This is your first build and you did all of those awesome modifications?! Really impressive and it looks perfect! Congrats and welcome to the community!

In reply to by spiceylg

Beekeeper

Sun, 12/14/2014 - 06:03

Thanks for the compliments! It was a fun learning experience. Making all the modifications definitely slowed down the build, but also made it more rewarding!

beckbg

Fri, 12/12/2014 - 13:18

I just started my bed (mostly out of Baltic Birch) and am wondering where you were able to find such nice 4x4s. Your bed is gorgeous! No luck here. I bought redwood, but really wanted fir for the sharper edges. It's my first project, too. I also bought same drawer slides, but the soft close. Didn't want the slam. I figure building it will be the easy part compared to procuring nice 4x4s! Hope you can help!

In reply to by beckbg

Beekeeper

Sun, 12/14/2014 - 06:01

Thanks! The 4x4s I found at a place called Better Living Building Supply. They had a pretty nice assortment of fir, including the 4x4s, so that is why I chose it for the build. Finding the 4x4s slowed down my start on the build. Our local Lowes only had them in treated pine.

athingvall

Sat, 09/05/2015 - 20:47

Thank you for the pictures, the bed turned out Awesome.  I was wondering about the latching system for the foot of the bed.  Do you think a piano hinge on the lower would work too?  Also on the center drawer did you use rollers or is it just friction?  Can't wait to start the build.

Thanks

Codding58

Mon, 02/15/2016 - 14:11

This is excellent!!!   I really like this, so much in fact that the wife is going to have to get used to it too. lol   But really, GREAT work!    Any chance you could post a pic and or comment about how you attached that removeable end?    i think this is the best part!    Cheers!

Kmaynard19

Tue, 12/10/2019 - 08:42

Beekeeper,  Awesome build!!!  Have you posted your altered plans anywhere?  I'm very interested in your build, I was wondering about some aspects of it and how you approached it.  Plans would clear it up instead of bothering you with all my questions.

NinjaPinky

Sat, 06/20/2020 - 09:06

I, like many others, have been wondering if you'd share your plans for this modification. It just looks so great!

tammis50401

Mon, 11/16/2020 - 15:42

Bed turned out awesome. I was wondering if you have the plans for the bed with a list of supplies it took to make this bed. I so want this bed it's just what we are needing

Great job

Outdoor bar table

Submitted by hueybp on Tue, 07/21/2020 - 20:06

Not quite finished but love the table already. Trying to decide how to stain/paint it. The Kreg jig was a must for this project. It was my first of hopefully many! I used cedar for the 4x4s and 2x6 top pieces. The 2x4s are treated lumber (only because there were no more cedar ones....apparently lumber is getting hard to get lately!!!). Anyway....thanks for the great plans and motivation for this project.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
Lumber was about $150 bucks (I bought mitre saw and kreg jig, too)
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
Will probably use semi transparent stain
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Square Farmhouse Table

Submitted by eddingsr on Sun, 01/08/2017 - 13:17

I built this table for a friend who wanted a rustic, plank-top kitchen table. She wanted a square table with 4x4 legs. Since I don't have clamps, I used pocket holes and wood glue for the table top. Also, I only have a 7&1/4" miter saw, which means the 4x4s were too thick to cut. So I made one cut in the legs, then flipped them and made another. It worked! :) I sanded down the sides of the table top with 80 grit. They needed to be evened up since some of the planks were a little longer than others. I back braced underneathe the top with (3) 1x3s. Then, I sanded all over with 120, vacuumed, then wiped it down with a damp towel. Fun build!! 

Estimated Cost
~$100 for lumber, screws, wood glue, sandpaper, and finishing products.
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
For the finish I used Minwax wood conditioner, then a coat of Minwax stain in Provincial. I went back and put a second coat of stain on a few of the premium pine pieces, because they soaked up the first coat really well, and I wanted some darker pieces on top. I let those soak for about 15 minutes. Afterwards I did 2 coats of Polycrylic all over, then a third coat for the top only. I dry sanded between coats with 600 grit sandpaper.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Footbridge

Submitted by sooz122 on Tue, 04/26/2011 - 18:36

I wanted to make a footbridge for my mom so she wouldn't get muddy when she crosses a small drainage ditch when goes walking on the trails behind her house. I didn't have a plan and this was my first build and I loved it! I just wanted to give everyone an idea of something to build. Can't wait to build more.

Estimated Cost
45
Estimated Time Investment
Afternoon Project (3-6 Hours)
Finish Used
Dark Minwax Walnut with a couple coats of poly.
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

2x4 modern Adirondack Chair (modified)

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Thu, 07/02/2020 - 17:45

I was so excited to find the plans for these awesome chairs, I’ve built 7 this season already—the modification happened as an accident, but I loved the result !

Estimated Cost
$30
Estimated Time Investment
An Hour or Two (0-2 Hours)
Finish Used
MinWax Aged Oak and Black paint
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Seasonal And Holiday

Farmhouse King Bed- Beetle Kill Pine

This was our first build and it was quite a big project to take on to start with. We had so much fun and learned so much along the way. 

Our biggest lessons were to hand pick our wood and make sure we get the straightest pieces possible. We had to wrestle some wood to make this bed work!  Clamp everything especially when using large bolts as the pieces would pull apart from each other. We even used a ratchet strap at one point becuase our small clamps weren't cutting it. I'm sure there's a better way and we'd love to hear about it but we made what we had work. We also had to figure out how to attach the side rails and at what height. We ended up using 3 4-inch screws on each end to screw them into the posts.  

We love this bed not only because it was a labor of love but because its such a solid beautiful piece. 

Estimated Cost
$200
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Minwax Polycrylic Water based - 4 coats, sanded using a 220 grit sanding block in-between each coat.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

Huffaker6971

Sun, 08/18/2019 - 13:47

This is exactly what I've been looking for. Are there plans for this build?

sxewhodey

Sun, 03/01/2020 - 11:29

Very nice! I love the lighter wood too, but my wife likes the darker stain, so we compromised in the middle for the finish. Why  arethe post always so red? I can appreciate the natural tendency of nature to add color, but the 4*4's are always red-er in color. Do they always use a different pine or certain part of the tree for those?

Designer Shoe Shelves on a Budget

When we first bought our house, one of the things that appealed to me was the walk in closet off the upstairs foyer. A walk in closet in a house from the 20′s? That’s unheard of! I know I could have designed this in a way that fit more, but I switch out my shoes seasonally, and I personally wanted slanted shelves. Come on, they’re so much prettier! Shopping List 1 – sheet of 1/2″ plywood (4 x 8′ sheet) 2- Primed 1×2′s @ 8′ 1 – 1/2″ Square Wood Dowel (like this) 2- Chair Rail @ 8′ (like this) Kilz Paint Primer Behr Semi Gloss White Paint Indoor Caulk Wood Putty 2″ Screws 2″ Nails Cuts Plywood- 5 pieces at 23″ wide and 12″ deep. Cut either of the 23″ end at a 45 degree angle. Plywood- 1 piece at 23″ wide and 12″ deep 1×2′s- 10 pieces at 12″ with ends cut at 45 degree angle. Then measure 1″ down from the top of the front piece, and cut it straight across. 1×2′s- 2 pieces at 12″ 1×2′s- 1 piece at 21.5″ Wooden Square Dowel- 3pcs at 23″ Chair Rail- 6 pieces at 23″ How To Build 1. I first figured out how far apart I wanted my shelves to be. I don’t have particularly tall shoes, so I had the first shelf 17″ off the ground in the front, and then they were set approximately 12″ apart after that. I located the studs, and screwed in the 1×2′s on the walls directly into the studs. 2. I then added the wooden dowels to the tops of 3 of the shelves. I didn’t even nail these down, just used wood glue and caulk. I set the wooden dowel 2.5″ from the back of the shelf. 3. After that I dry fit the actual shelf on top of the 1×2′s. This was probably the hardest part because of course this house doesn’t have even walls. Why would anyone ever need even walls? What a silly concept. I ended up having to sand a lot of the edges to make them fit. Caulking will help fill in those gaps! I then nailed in the shelves to the 1×2′s from above. 4. I slowly worked my way up the wall. When I got to the top shelf, I knew that I wanted a flat shelf to store boxes of shoes. I also added an extra 1×2″ to the back wall just in case I really decided to stack those shoes high. I followed the same process as I did for other 1×2′s, and screwed this into the stud. Closet 1x2 All Shelves 5. Then I used the chair rail and aligned it at the bottom of the 1×2″ and nailed it to the front of the shelf. It sticks up higher than the front of the shelf, which is great for catching shoes that tend to slip down. 6. After this I, I ended up using wood putty and caulk to fill any gaps. They work miracles on wood. 7. Finally I just painted everything and viola! Budget 1 – sheet of 1/2″ plywood (4 x 8′ sheet) – $28.97 2- Primed 1×2′s @ 8′- $5.98 1 – 1/2″ Square Wood Dowel - $1.75 Chair Rail - $16.00 Kilz Paint Primer- already owned Behr Semi Gloss White Paint- already owned Indoor Caulk- already owned Wood Putty- already owned Screws- already owned Nails- already owned TOTAL: $52.70

Estimated Cost
$50.00
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
White Semi Gloss Behr Paint
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

DIY Famhouse Table

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Wed, 07/05/2023 - 08:24

I used the farmhouse table plans, with a few modifications. I made two benches to go along with it. This was my first big wood project and I'm pretty proud of it. My daughter bought her first home and needed a table custom sized to her space so this was perfect. I love all of Ana's plans, so easy to follow.

Scrap Wood Cart

Submitted by Scrivman33 on Sun, 02/25/2018 - 13:45

Saw the other project and based everything off of that. I made some adjustments on the shelf side to ensure I could lay down 3 layers of 2x6's without it hanging off too far. At first I wasn't going to go with the rail shelf system, but I couldn't find anything that I liked at the store to make actually shelves. I did cut a 2* angle on the bottom and top of the shelf framing. I figured if I put enough weight on those shelves, I woudln't want it messing with the frame of the cart too much. On the bin side, I decided to just do different heights instead of angled because I know I'll have plenty of 3' plus. I chose to put a scrap bin on the end for anything smaller than a foot. Many of those joints were done with my Kreg setup, but not all of them. The last fix I did was add a 2x4 to the insde of the shelf frame. This was to move the shelf hangers in so that an 8' board wasn't just edge to edge (I found that to be a problem when I put some of the 1x4's on there...they would be on 2, but not always all 3). So moving each side in around 1.5" gives you about 3" to play with as far as 8' lumber goes. This enabled me to turn my old storage into bench and shelves and I'm ready to get moving on projects!

Estimated Cost
$200-$250
Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Finish Used
None
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

King Bed Frame for adjustable base

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Tue, 10/08/2019 - 05:50

I could not find a frame which would accommodate my new adjustable king base. Modified Anna's plans by increasing the height of the headboard and footboard. Finished with chalk paint and antique finish for a rustic look. Side rails attached with mortises to allow for moving bed in 4 pieces if needed. Love my new bed

Estimated Cost
$300
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Chalk paint (purchased from Habitat for Humanity re-store) using recycled paint. Finished with three coats of Annie Sloan wax
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

khowe791

Sat, 11/30/2019 - 03:31

Hi! We are making this headboard this weekend. We want to increase the headboard height and footboard as well. Do you happen to know the cut measurements or how you adjusted the height of the 1x6 (or 1x8 as others used) to make it work? Yours looks perfect! Thank you in advance for any feedback! 

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