Community Brag Posts

Loft Bed

Submitted by btsmith76 on Thu, 06/27/2013 - 08:08

We built this loft bed for my daughters fourth birthday and she loves it.
I customized the plans to a full-size bed instead of a twin, simply so I didn't have to buy new mattress down the road. We also integrated a 16 gal saltwater aquarium, since she loves Nemo so much. It is a simple design that we feel we can customize as she grows.

Estimated Cost
$200 - $250 (wood & paint)
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Valspar Gloss White (2 Gallons)
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Marie320

Fri, 07/19/2013 - 11:47

I saw your post on the full size loft bed. I've only seen the plans for a
twin size. what are the plans or how do I modify to a full size? really want
to keep my sons mattress. and I love the flat panel on the side by the way
and the curtain

In reply to by Marie320

btsmith76

Thu, 08/08/2013 - 07:32

The original plans show a 44 1/2" width for a twin size mattress. I modified the width to 59 1/2" to fit the full size mattress. The original length of the bed was 75", I extended this to 77". Also, keep in mind the overall height of the loft bed. The mattress we purchased is 12 1/2" in height/thickness. So I also modified the overall bed height from 65 1/2" to 72" and 45" clearance underneath. Hope this helps.

ldulitz

Wed, 08/07/2013 - 16:59

i like how you have the extra 2x6 at the top. did you lower the height of the overall bed to do this? how high to you have it, and how much space did you leve between the "rows"?

In reply to by ldulitz

btsmith76

Thu, 08/08/2013 - 07:37

I actually added more height to the bed. The original plan bed height was 65 1/2", I modified that to 72". I added that piece because of the mattress height. We purchased a mattress that was 12 1/2" in height / thickness. The space between each row is 3".

bhoppy

Thu, 01/02/2014 - 14:03

I love all the modifications you made. Do you mind answering a few questions? What width of wood did you add to make the aquarium wall? Is it 1/4 inch plywood or thicker? I also noticed that you did not add another cross piece on the back, is that because the wall added stability and you didn't need it? Also I noticed you added 2x4's under the front side 2x6. Was that for stability as well? I want to make the full size version as well and appreciate your help:-) Thanks

In reply to by bhoppy

btsmith76

Fri, 01/10/2014 - 06:41

I used 1/4 inch plywood for the aquarium wall. The cross piece in the back was not needed. This is where our daughter gets in and out of the bed. The 2x4's in the front are just for aesthetics. They are not needed for stability. I used them to hide the end of the curtains. Hope this helps and good luck.

roccaburro

Sun, 03/02/2014 - 16:17

Do you happen to have a copy of the plans with your modifications done to it? Just I am trying to figure out how to convert the plans for a full size bed just not having an easy go with it LOL

btsmith76

Tue, 03/04/2014 - 08:12

I'm sorry I do not have the plans anymore. The original plans show a 44 1/2" width for a twin size mattress. I modified the width to 59 1/2" to fit the full size mattress. The original length of the bed was 75", I extended this to 77". Also, keep in mind the overall height of the loft bed. The mattress we purchased is 12 1/2" in height/thickness. So I also modified the overall bed height from 65 1/2" to 72". Hope this helps.

debduhadway

Wed, 04/13/2016 - 17:48

Do you think there is a way to make the steps double hinged so they could fold up on the landing?

Bike Storage

Submitted by vendo on Wed, 10/13/2021 - 10:10

I live in a smaller rental with limited garage space, so I needed a place for my kids bikes. This is what I came up with. It required minimal screw holes in the treated fence posts and I attached a rail system(rubbermaid fasttrak) for the bikes to hang from. I used Ana's easy shelves plan for the upright supports and then just added some corrugated roofing and cedar fence pickets (which I had on hand) to finish off the top.

Mini Cedar Storage Shed

Submitted by jakevdp on Sun, 06/09/2013 - 23:10

I loved the idea of re-purposing fence pickets as siding for a cedar shed, but the plans on the website were much too big for the space I have. I ended up modifying the design to make a smaller shed, with approximately a 4 foot by 2 foot footprint. It turned out beautifully! Cedar is expensive, but I was able to save money on the project by buying much of the material at local salvage and second-hand stores.

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$140
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

HOWsMom

Thu, 04/30/2015 - 05:44

This is exactly the size I want - did it take much to modify the plans to be smaller like this ?

RenoRustic

Tue, 05/19/2015 - 11:19

My mom just asked me about building her a garden shed in a small area. This looks perfect for what she is looking for. I'll have to show her this. Great job!

BeckfordRVA

Sun, 03/29/2020 - 09:59

I'd also love to know what modifications you made to create the mini version. Did you just take out one of the sections of the back frame and adjust the side widths? Thanks!

Farmhouse Table with Extensions

This was my first build and I learned A LOT and watched A LOT of youtube diy videos. The main take-away from this project is not to build in the freezing cold if the finished project is for inside. I finished this project in below freezing temperatures and I noticed that the wood expanded (increasing slightly the gap between the finished boards on the top) when it was brought inside.

I built this from the original farmhouse table plans with no kreg jig although I did buy and use a pocket kreg jig to make the extensions. The main modifications were using 4x4s such as were used in the Country Living magazine spread that inspired this build and also making modifications to allow the addition of 15" extensions at each end of the table's bread boards.

My first challenge was figuring out how to build with the 4x4 legs instead of the 2 2x4s screwed together. In order to accomplish this i had to use a chisel to create the corner lip that the table top frame would sit on. I added photos of this so I hope it will help someone. Chiseling these 4 corners (one on each post) only took an hour or two and was so worth it for the look of the 4x4s. Just measure carefully and work carefully with a sharp chisel. I actually removed half the wood by sawing off the corner at a 45 degree angle. Remember when cutting your boards for the table ends that a 4x4 has different dimensions than 2 2x4s screwed together. Compensate for this in your cuts.

Another challenge was hiding the screws on the table legs and table top. I was leaving the finish natural so didn't want to use wood fill. I accomplished this by getting a countersink bit and then buying wooden dowels the same diameter. For these screw holes, after finishing screwing, I put a dab of wood glue in the countersink hole, inserted the dowel as far as it would go, used a fine hand saw to cut off the dowel flush with the table and then used a hammer to make sure the dowel was in tight and flush.

I had trouble figuring out how to attach the table top frame to the table legs with the long screws from the plans so I included a picture of this step. Its really easy but I was not able to use three screws as the plan calls for. I used two instead and it has been very solid. I used the long screws as proscribed.

Finally, I wanted to build extensions (2 2x8 boards kreg jigged together) so I could increase seating up to a max. of 12 persons, so I needed to cut out 2x2 gaps on the table ends. I also included a picture of these in place. To make room for the 2 2x2s that extend under the bread boards and table top to brace the extensions, I left out one of the 2x2 cross beams at each end of the underside of the table (the boards that the table top boards screw into).

I hope this is helpful to you!

Estimated Cost
$250
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Vinegar and Steel Wool Solution (soak steel wool for 24 hours in vinegar and be sure to test on a sample) to "age" the wood. Tung oil over this sealed the stain/wood. over this I applied a wax finish. First I used Briwax Liming Wax to enhance the gray finish and leave a slight white wash patina. This finish was enhanced because I had steel brushed with the grain to remove some soft wood so the liming wax would enhance the grain. I finished the project with clear briwax. We have been using this as our everyday table since February and there are no stains or problems with this finish.
Recommended Skill Level
Starter Project

Comments

dyemond47

Mon, 02/10/2014 - 11:55

Great job on the table! I love...I had visions of this table before I saw it. I wanted to use the 4x4's for the legs as well, the same finish. I am concerned now about the 4x4's because I am an amateur and I think that may throw too many wrenches into my plan. I started with the bench, finished in 3 hours I have patted myself on the back. Plotting on a Kreg jig right now.

epweigel92

Sun, 07/24/2016 - 09:57

Love the look of this table! Just to make sure I'm following correctly, the extensions are ones you can add and remove, not fixed? Do you have a pic of how they slide in or out?

Outdoor Sectional

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Fri, 04/28/2023 - 05:24

This was my seventh outdoor couch but my first sectional. My very first couches were all inspired by Ana White's plans and I have gotten so much better with my skills that I building other things as well. Thanks Ana for all your inspiration!

Comments

Outdoor Sofa and Chair with Slanted Back

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sun, 07/16/2023 - 10:22

OK, I think this build may be my biggest project yet! It is definitely the heaviest. With the strong winds we can get here in Florida we needed substantial outdoor furniture.
I did make some modifications along the way measurement-wise so the sofa would fit my front porch better. All in all, this took 2 full days. I built the sofa first, stained it the next day and then decided (due to trying to get stain in all the nooks and crannies) to stain the chair pieces first before putting it together.
I am so happy with the results and so far, almost a year later, this furniture looks great and hasn't moved an inch in any of the thunderstorms we've had! Thank you Ana!!

Daughters blue Playhouse

Submitted by rysos81 on Thu, 07/23/2020 - 08:55

I used the basic framing plan for the project, but extended roof overhangs, added engineered siding / trim and cedar shake roofing. I put 2x4 bracing on for the platform.

Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate
Seasonal And Holiday

Two-Toned shabby chic 4X4 Truss dining Table and Benches

4c4 truss with dark walnut top 4" thick, base stained dark walnut with white wash and shabby etching.

Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Dark walnut, white paint, matte pily
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

thewoodbuilder

Tue, 11/18/2014 - 04:55

I know right, i think looks even more amazing when seen in person.  I did 2 chairs to match as well. which i will load up now.  :0)

White Bunk beds with ladder instructions

I redid this whole room for less than $600! Make sure you take your time with cuts and fitting. I did this with my father in law (my daughter even got to help out!), and it's less than perfect due to some rushing! More details on my blog.

I also couldn't find any 4x4's. Instead of doubling up on 2x4's, I just used one. That allowed me to change the tops of the head/foot boards to only 48" instead of 50 1/2. You can get enough for a head and foot board out of one board this way.

After looking at a TON of bunk bed ladders online, I designed my own. Just some leftover 2x4's. The sides are 47 1/2 inches long, and the rungs are 13 1/2 inches long. It's screwed to the bunk bed from the back so you don't see the screws.

Estimated Cost
$300
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
Sanded the heck out of everything, then two coats of Behr primer, followed by 2-3 coats of Behr semi-gloss in New Day Dew (it's a Disney color)
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

First nightstand

Submitted by juliec on Sat, 04/02/2011 - 13:24

We used ana's plan but modified the top

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$35
Estimated Time Investment
Weekend Project (10-20 Hours)
Finish Used
We will use espresso general finishes and several top coats of poly.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

bridgetschaefer

Thu, 05/30/2019 - 13:00

This is EXACTLY what I'm looking for but I can't find the plans that were used to build it. Do you happen to still have the link for them?

John's Washer/Dryer Pedestal

Submitted by coveyjt on Sun, 06/12/2016 - 10:59

The wife has a hard time bending down so she wanted pedestals for the washer and dryer.  The metal ones with a drawer were too tall.  I showed her Sausha's and she really loved that design.  I basically used the same construction plans idea from Sausha's project and some tips from Ryan's brag post.  But, I wanted to beef it up some.  I didn't like the L-bracket to attach the top and 4X4 legs.  It didn't seem sturdy enough for me.  I used my table saw to square the edges on the 4X4 posts and the 2X6 rails.  Then I used my Kreg jig and glued and screwed everything together.  I liked Ryan's trim ideas, so I used baseboard trim for the bottom and flipped it for the top trim.  I made a 1/2" lip so if it were to vibrate, the washer/dryer would not fall.  I put the trim on the bottom of the legs and was considering putting on the top but I put some different trim all the way around the bottom of the 2X6 rails.  The wife liked that.  I also added some carpet on the top to cut down on vibration and to help keep the units in place. I also put some 4X4 pieces of carpet on the bottom to keep the noise down and to help in moving it. I primed and used an gravity sprayer to paint it.  Then I put 3 coats of polyacrylic to help in cleaning and to cut down on scratches from the laundry baskets. 

laundry pedestals diy

Estimated Cost
150.00
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Paint
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

zoolander

Wed, 06/29/2016 - 14:31

I think you could probably drive a truck on top of yours.  :)  I was a bit concerned about the strength of the construction when I first decided to build it, but I decided that since it would be stationary once I have it in place and the only force would be straight down, it would be fine.  Once I got it put together, it was actually sturdier than I thought it was going to be...from a horizontal force perspective.  Virtically, that thing could hold 100 washer/dryer pairs...the plywould would give out before the 2x4s and 4x4s would even budge.

Anyway, nice work!  I love the Kreg Jig...I need one of those. 

2x4 outdoor couch

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Sat, 07/18/2020 - 18:46

I used cedar and added the extra boards so the cushions would stay put. We also made the arms 2x6 boards so we wouldn’t need end tables for the couch. The plans were super easy to follow. I mostly used pocket holes so the screws wouldn’t be visible. Love how it came out! Thank you for the plans, Ana!!

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Time Investment
Day Project (6-9 Hours)
Finish Used
Nothing yet. Deciding on whether to let it grey on its own
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Big Boy Toddler Loft Bed!

You can see the final project here: http://crabandfish.blogspot.com/2012/10/lil-archers-bed-its-done-its-do…

It was time for our son to move to a big-boy bed! We looked at tons of plans, but none were quite what I wanted. In the end, fish modified plans for Ana White's Camp Loft Bed with Stair. We wanted to make it a bit shorter because we only have 8' ceilings and there is a ceiling fan in the room. We spent about $80 for the lumber and invested in a kreg jig as well. The bed is stained with Minwax Golden Oak. We bought a 10" deep twin-sized foam mattress for the bed - if you are adding a coil mattress and boxspring, the bedside rails would definitely need to be higher.

Our son LOVES it! He is almost three and is easily able to navigate the stairs, which I don't believe will become too "baby-ish" as he grows older. If they do, the steps can easily be removed from the frame without losing structural integrity.

The underbed area has a great "cool" factor - we hang blankets to create forts, and it has become a place our son gravitates to for reading, playing, anything!

Estimated Cost
$100 for lumber and stain. Also invested in kreg jig.
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Minwax Golden Oak
Recommended Skill Level
Beginner

Comments

Rustic Sideboard / Buffet Table

This was our second project (though I'm proud to say that I was able to put the bulk of it together all by myself...and that's because of the miracle of the Kreg Jig pocket hole kit!)

First I had to modify the plans so that the sideboard wasn't as deep (about 16" deep...so just a couple/few inches off the original plans). Then we bought the wood. My husband helped me cut most of the pieces, and then I started drilling pocket holes. It felt like it took forever! But once that was done, I was able to put it together so quick...like an IKEA furniture! BUT! I really should have checked for SQUARE better than I did, b/c once it REALLY started coming together, things were a little off kilter... Thank goodness my husband had the patience to SAND THE HECK out of the bottom of the poor thing to level it back out. :P

The door fronts took forever...and the drawers took a while to fit in correctly (all of which my hubs did). We had left our lumber on the patio, and the second day it got rained on. It might have helped if our lumber didn't get wet (to help keep things straight and square).

The things that took the longest: squaring, leveling, doors and drawers, and the base molding (I ended up using a 2x4 and 1x2 to build my own base along the bottom...we wanted to stain the wood instead of paint it, and didn't want to pay the $$$ for paintable molding).

I used the same Rustoleum Dark Walnut stain that I had used on our Farmhouse Table...but I didn't shake it enough before using it, then left it on longer than I should have, so it is much darker than our table. Eventually may want to paint over it since it was so hard to get stain in all the nooks and crannies.

I didn't think to stain the inside of the doors. I will have to go back and paint it someday. We used particle board for the bottom and inside shelf (much cheaper than plywood). I tried staining the bottom piece, but it just soaked in the stain. So I used some dark brown spray paint instead. Worked like a charm. Planning on painting/covering the shelves one day, too.

OH! AND, I couldn't find the wider "bead board" (or whatever it is that everyone else used on their sideboards), so we used plywood as a backing, then attached some thin Poplar boards on the front for the appearance of planked boards. VERY painstaking. Would recommend a different method for that part.

(Timing: We started building this around the beginning of November, brought it in and used it before it was finished...then finished it a couple days before Christmas. Just the other day I added some drawer liners).

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$200-300 for lumber.
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Finish Used
Rustoleum Dark Walnut
Deft Clear Satin, 1 coat.
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

hillarylouise

Wed, 02/06/2013 - 15:20

I saw your comment on my blog and had to come take a peek! It sounds like it was a challenging project, but you did a fantastic job. Beautiful!

lawn and garden shed

Submitted by brittanyj on Wed, 08/19/2015 - 13:17

Needed a shed to store bikes and mowers, etc, so I'd have more room in the woodshop : )  I made a lot of modifications to the plan to fit my space and make it much larger.  The completed size is 7 foot tall at the peak, 6 feet deep and 5.5 feet wide.  I made it as a 3 sided shed, using the wall as the 4th to save on cost, increase air flow, and make the exterior house wall accessible.  I also made an egress in the back of the shed in order to get behind the shed if needed. 

Instead of roofing shingles, I opted for ribbed metal sheets and one clear sheet in the middle to make a skylight, so there would be light in the shed.  This is my favorite part of the project.  It was a huge pain to attach the roofing from a ladder with very limited access, but it looks great and I love the light coming in.  We have very little rain in CA, so I'll have to wait until winter/rainy season in order to test out its waterproofing. 

Since the shed sits between the house and the neighbors block wall fence, and I wanted to use as much of the space as I could, I decided to design the shed to have the side wall against the house rather than the back wall, as shown in the plan.  This took a large amount of modifications, but with careful planning and measuring, it can be done.  This also meant blocking off access to behind the shed, so I cut an egress in the back wall and added hinges so you can lift the back cut out panel, and rest it on a stop block attached to the fence behind it in order to have access.  That's what woodworking is about- problem solving.  Love it. 

As you can see by the full shed picture, it fits a large amount of stuff- 2 adult bikes, mower, edger, trimmer, chainsaw, hedge trimmer, garden tools, shovels, etc, with plenty of room for more.  I now have a free corner in my garage that I've already filled with a DIY rolling workbench and more pegboard space for tool hanging.  Woodshop increased space= happy Brittany. 

I should also mention that building the frame and adding the pickets was quite a quick and easy job.  The hardest and most time consuming part was the roof (I didn't have metal cutting tools), rolling each very heavy wall to the site (I was alone) and the previous 2 weeks in which I built the paver patio the shed sits on.  Hard work, but worth it.  I love it!

Built from Plan(s)
Estimated Cost
$280
Estimated Time Investment
Week Long Project (20 Hours or More)
Recommended Skill Level
Intermediate

Comments

brittanyj

Mon, 01/25/2021 - 13:15

It has been incredibly useful for storing! One thing about the skylight- Over time the sun has warped it and there is now a hole and crack there. So I wouldn't plan on the clear roofing being a long term solution- I will be replacing it with either thicker clear roofing or 2 layers.

Finally Built a Platform Bed!

Submitted by Anonymous (not verified) on Mon, 07/25/2022 - 10:39

I've been wanting to build this bed for awhile and finally got around to it. I made a few small changes to the plans:

-I used 2x8's instead of 2x6s, so it wouldn't be so low to the ground.
-I ripped 3/8" off of the 2x8 supports in the middle so the mattress would nest inside the frame and not slide around
-I didn't add the headboard because it seemed a bit chunky/rustic for my taste. I will come back and do something else for the headboard. Maybe a cool paneled wall with built in sconces? We'll see!

Love these plans though, appreciate it!

Comments