Rustic X End Table

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Rustic X End Table

Build a Rustic X End Table from 2x4s and lumber! Free easy step by step plans from ana-white.com

HANDMADE FROM THIS PLAN >>

Projects built from this plan. Thank you for submitting brag posts, it's appreciated by all!

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Author Notes: 

Hi everyone!!!

What a treat we have today!

Remember this beautiful X Console Table, built by Hillary?

And then this beautiful X Coffee Table, also built by Hillary?

Well, Hillary used up her scraps and built X End Tables!!!!!

And we've got the plans right here!!!

PS - Love Hillary's Oxidized Finish? Get the step by step tutorial here!

PSSSS - Did you notice the beautiful black entertainment center in the background of Hillary's living room?

Those plans are available in our book!

Shopping List: 

2 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x12 @ 3 feet long
2 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
2 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long
corner bracket hardware
decorative bolts
2 1/2" and 1 1/4" PH screws
wood glue

Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
compound miter saw
sander
countersink drill bit
General Instructions: 

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Dimensions: 
Dimensions shown above.
Cut List: 

8 - 2X4 @ 22 1/2"
4 - 2X2 @ 16"
2 - 1X12 @ 16"
2 - 2X2 @ 26 1/2" (LONG POINT TO SHORT POINT, ENDS ARE PARALLEL, 50 DEGREES OFF SQUARE)
4 - 2x2 @ 13 1/4" (Longest edge, one end cut at 50 degrees off square, other end cut at 10 degrees off square, see diagram)
5 - 2x6 @ 27"

Step 1: 

Start by building two ends as depicted in diagrams. You can also attach with countersunk 2 1/2" screws and glue.

NOTE: Yellow board width should be 22 1/2"

Step 2 Instructions: 

Next attach the 2x2 sides.

Step 3 Instructions: 

And then build your bottom shelf and attach to bottom of console.

Step 4 Instructions: 

Now it's time to fit your cross braces. A standard miter saw should cut a 50 degree angle off square. If not, you will need to mark it with a square (remember 50 degrees is off square, so that means the angle off the board edge would be 40 degrees. Another trick is to just hold the board in place, mark the angles, and cut :) These aren't support boards or anything like that, so some glue and a few nails or countersunk screws from top/bottom will do the trick!

Step 5 Instructions: 

And then add the smaller pieces. The easiest way to join at the center is with 1 1/2" PH and 2 1/2" PH screws hidden out of sight.

Step 6 Instructions: 

Next build your top ... and attach in place with countersunk 2 1/2" screws. If you have the PH screws on hand, I just use a few of those!

Step 7 Instructions: 

And then add the decorative hardware!

Preparation Instructions: 
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type: 
Skill Level: 
Style: 

Comments

I am DYING for your book! It feels like forever away. I'm so eager to get my hands on it so I can go lumber shopping ;) Just a few days ago I was musing, "I really need to get some nails." My husband quips, "You know, most girls mean a manicure. You're the only one I know who is talking about a nail gun!"

I think we need to complete the set on this one ;) I've got no clue how this would translate into a dining table, but if anyone can do it, Ana can!

And how about some lovely benches to go with that dining table...?
I would definitely build the whole Rustic X Collection!!

Just FYI for anyone thinking about building this to go next to a sofa...be sure to measure the height of the arms of your sofa first. I think my sofa arms might be abnormally high, and the table was designed to fit my sofa. You might need to take an inch or two off the legs to make it fit right. :)

You're killing me with all of the X furniture, I love it all so much! I'm actually considering modifying the design to create a changing table for my coming baby!

I have been waiting for these side tables!!! Thank you, thank you, thank you!! I'm working on my farmhouse bed with the canopy. BUT, as soon as I am done with that I am totally starting on the X furniture. I just can't wait!! Thank you soooooo much!!!!

Definitely not pressure treated -- no need for that. The drier the better. You can tell the moisture content by how cool the wood is to the touch and/or by how heavy it is. Look for the straightest wood you can find, but the wood called for in these plans is pretty rough stuff so you may have to go through quite a few boards to find ones you're happy with. It's stud-grade wood, not wood that is meant to be made into furniture.

This will be my very first furniture project. This design is awesome! In step 6 it says build top first with 1 1/2 Ph ( does ph mean phillips head?). What does build top first mean? Combine the 1x6's to themselves and then attach to table? If so what technique do you use to combine them to one another?

PH = Pocket Holes. One great tool to add to your toolkit is a pocket hole jig. Kreg makes several nice sets, and I have the Kreg Jr., which has been very handy on a number of benches, odd jobs, and deer blinds. It has been well worth the money.

Where it refers to 1 1/2 PH - that is refering to the size screws for the pocket holes. You use the pocket holes and screws to join the 1x6's together.

Thank you for the quick lesson. Looks like I will be picking up the kreg tool from lowes. The pocket holes for the 1x6. If I take two boards and lay them next to each other I will drill the pocket hole along the seam? Do that until all are joined and then attach to top by screwing along apron from underneath? Ok I believe last question. The bottom shelf you will join together by pocket holes along Sean similar to 1x6? Then pocket holes along outer from underneath?

Thank you for the quick lesson. Looks like I will be picking up the kreg tool from lowes. The pocket holes for the 1x6. If I take two boards and lay them next to each other I will drill the pocket hole along the seam? Do that until all are joined and then attach to top by screwing along apron from underneath? Ok I believe last question. The bottom shelf you will join together by pocket holes along Sean similar to 1x6? Then pocket holes along outer from underneath?

Yes, you have the concept now. I would suggest watching a few videos on the Kreg site or check Ana's videos. Also try it out on scrap wood once you have your jig..

Hi!

I was wondering you could elaborate on securing the smaller pieces of the X. It says to attach the screws out of site but where would that be?

I can't seem to see where they are screwed in the picture (which is a good thing I guess!)

Any input would be much appreciated!

Thanks!

Hi, Jon. I just attached the x pieces using screws wherever I could reach. For me, that was on top of the top x pieces and on the underside of the bottom ones -- I think I flipped the table over to do the bottom ones. I also used dark screws for that, so that they wouldn't be obvious. You can find them if you're looking for them, but they don't stand out. A pneumatic nailer would probably be better, but I didn't fee like firing up my air compressor!

I have made furniture before, however the top warped.. What kind of wood are you using for this project? How do you get your projects from warping?? Any help would be great!
Thanks!!!!

I've actually not had that problem unless the wood I bought was already warped. I'm pretty picky about what I bring home, especially if it is for a project that isn't meant to look rustic.

Buying the driest wood you can find will help. If it is cool to the touch and if it is especially heavy, it is still wet. Sometimes only wet wood is available, especially when you're buying 2x4s and 2x6s like for this project. Also, I think center-cut boards are supposed to warp less? Looking at the end grain to see the growth pattern can sometimes give you a clue. That would be a good thing to Google -- I know there is lots of info out there about it. Good luck!

I have never used a Kreg Jig before, but I just bought one. So with good wood and the kreg.. maybe it wont warp... Thank you so much!

You will love the Kreg Jig. When I first got mine I was confused but watched a video on the Kreg site and the heavens parted. I was drilling PHs today with the jig and got to thinking how many times I have used it and asking shouldn't it be worn out? Just one point and that is to make sure your pieces are securely in place (clamped) as the pocket hole screws can produce a lot of torque and all of a sudden you are out of line. You may also experience one piece moving away from the other as you drill the screw but keep going and they will come together nice and tight. My shelf pin jig should arrive tomorrow and I can finish my version of Ana's four cubby bookshelf.

Jake

I love the shape, weight of 48 lbs, size and ruggedness of this table. Built it but left off the Xs because I just could not get them right. Not yet finished so no BRAG yet. I would like to add a photo of the unfinished table here but apparently you cannot. I think I will add 2x2s to enclose the bottom shelf and add ceramic tile to the shelf. Just a thought at the moment.

Jake

I just made two of these side tables yesterday and it was simple, quick and they look fantastic. So excited to have somewhere to tuck away the kids toys. Thank you for the great plans!

Can someone point me in the right direction where to get the decorative bolts and the corner brackets in black or any decorative type of color.

You will not find much at Big Blue or Big Orange so the best way is to check the internet. I use a firm called Kennedy Hardware. They have a great selection but you have to order enough to justify the shipping charge. www.kennedyhardware.com

Jake

The hardware are just standard bolts and L-brackets that have been painted black. See below excerpt from "The Friendly House":

"There are two kinds of decorative hardware on the table. Down at the bottom of each leg is a 1/2" x 1" hex bolt, available for under fifty cents each at hardware stores. To attach them, I drilled 1/2" holes in the table legs where I wanted the bolts to go and then used wood glue to keep the bolts in the holes. The brackets at the top are simple L-brackets that cost a few bucks each. They don't come with screws -- I used #8 one inch screws to attach them to the corners of the table. Both the bolts and the brackets came in a shiny steel finish which I sprayed with flat black spray paint. Once the corner brackets were attached, the heads of the screws were painted with the same black paint,"

http://thefriendlyhome.blogspot.com/2012/07/oxidized-x-coffee-table.html

Well I just looked through the electronic catalog until I found what I was looking for. There are other sites that offer special hardware so just do a search. Some are really expensive so look around.

Jake

Its amazing to see someone put so much passion into a subject. I’m glad I came across this. I’m glad I took the time to read on past the first paragraph.You’ve got so much to say, so much to offer. I hope people realize this and look into your page.
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Its amazing to see someone put so much passion into a subject. I’m glad I came across this. I’m glad I took the time to read on past the first paragraph.You’ve got so much to say, so much to offer. I hope people realize this and look into your page.
clipping path

I created pocket holes in my bottom shelf as directed, but when I attempt to attach to the 2x4, my screws are entering at an angle that forces them up and through the 2x4, being very visible on the finished piece. Has anyone else had this issue and if so, how'd you fix it? Or am I doing something incorrectly?

Just wondering where the use of counter sink drill bits come into play when making this design? And also what size drill bits are needed. Thanks, love your furniture!

Is there a trick to use with the xs. My table must not have been square and I had a hard time cutting the xs to fit in there snuggly. I still have an end table and a coffee table to build.

I'm very excited to start making this, but I'm a bit confused why all the images say 1 1/2" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws. What does this mean? I'll be buying a kreg jig when I buy the lumber.

I'm very excited to start making this, but I'm a bit confused why all the images say 1 1/2" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws. What does this mean? I'll be buying a kreg jig when I buy the lumber.

PH means Pocket Hole screw. The thickness of the lumber being joined with a pocket hole screw determines the length of screw you should employ. Kreg has a chart you can print out that tells you which length screw to use depending upon the lumber being joined.

Since you are new to using pocket hole joinery let me add that you need several clamps to hold the boards in place when you drive the screws. Otherwise they will take over. This is especially the case if you are connecting a mitered joint. When you near the end of driving the screws do it in little spurts with your drill to firmly seat the screw but also to prevent driving the screw through the board. It happens. Last always complement PH screws with a good wood glue like Titebond II or III.

Jake