Farmhouse Bedside Table

PDF versionPDF version
Dimensions: 
Dimensions are shown above.
Dimensions: 

1 – 1×12 @ 6 feet long
2 – 1×6 @ 8 feet long
4 – 2×2 @ 8 feet long
2 – 1×2 @ 8 feet long
1/4″ plywood scrap, at least 24″ x 8″ (minimum, ideally 26″ x 8 1/2″)
2 1/2″ Screws or Pocket Hole Screws
1 1/4″ Finish nails or Screws
Wood Glue, wood filler and finishing supplies
2 Knobs

Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
circular saw
sander
level
countersink drill bit
Cut List: 

2 – 1×12 @ 8 3/4″ (Sides)
2 – 1×2 @ 11 1/2″ (Side Trim – needs to be width of your 1x12s)
4 – 2×2 @ 26 1/4″ (Legs)
2 – 2×2 @ 11 1/2″ (Side Stretchers, same width as your 1x12s)
6 – 2×2 @ 23″ (Front/Back Trim)
1 – 1/4″ Plywood or paneling or other sheet goods @ 26″ x 8 1/2″ (back, optional)
3 – 1×2 @ 11 1/2″ (Top Supports)
3 – 1×6 @ 28″ (Top)
2 – 1×6 @ 22 3/4″ (Front and Back of Drawer)
2 – 1×6 @ 11 1/2″ (Width of 1×12 – Sides of Drawers)
1 – 1×12 @ 21 1/4″ (Bottom of drawer)
1 – 1×12 @ 26″ (Bottom Shelf)
2 – 1×2 @ 23″ (Bottom Shelf Trim)

Room: 
Collections: 
Skill Level: 
Estimated Cost: 
Style: 

Step 1

Sides

Build the sides by screwing or nailing from the insides into the back sides of the 1×2 trim, as shown above. Remember that the 1x2s are on the outside, so hide your fasteners on the back side. Use glue. Make sure trim is flush on top and ends with the 1×12. You will need to build two of these.

Step 2

Legs

Next add the legs to the project as shown above. Predrill holes and use glue and 2 1/2″ screws. Finish with the bottom stretcher. You will need to do this on both sides.

Summary: 

A bedside table to match our Farmhouse Beds. Features one large bottom shelf and one large drawer.

Step 3

Front/Back Trim

Join the two side pieces with the front and back trim as shown above. Use 2 1/2″ screws and glue.

Step 4

Back

This could even be a stiff cardboard or hardboard if that’s what you have on hand. Try asking at your hardware store for a scrap piece of plywood or a damaged sheet to save extra money. Tack on with either 1 1/4″ finish nails or screws and glue.

Step 5

Top Supports

Attach the top supports as shown above with 2 1/2″ screws and glue.

Step 6

Top

The top needs to overhang the base by 1″ on all sides. If you have a pocket hole system, build your top, then screw the base to the top through the supports. Otherwise, screw the supports to the top, starting with the middle top board, and minimizing gaps between the boards as you screw the outer boards to the supports.

Step 7

Drawer

Build your drawer as shown above. Use screws and glue. The bottom is inset, with all sides screwed into the bottom. The front is merely false cuts made with a circular saw with the saw blade set at 1/8″.

Step 8

Drawer Slides

What I would start with is screwing the drawer slides in place, flush with the bottom of the sides. Then fit the drawer in and unscrew the drawer slide and adjust until the gap around the top and sides is even and the drawer slides in and out nicely.

Step 9

Step 9 Instructions: 

Front Trim

Attach the front trim to the legs as shown above, leaving an even gap on the underside of the drawer.

Step 10

Bottom Shelf

You can lay the bottom shelf on the side stretchers, or you can screw to the legs as shown above.

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions: 
For a stained finish, be very careful to not let glue dry on any exposed seams or areas. Sand and stain, followed with wood filler that matches the stain, followed with a light sanding, a second coat of stain, and a clear top coat.

Have you ever found yourself lingering in front of your projects, admiring all your hard work, still in disbelief that you actually made it?  That's me today on my new bedside table.

It's sadness that I was unable to convey the beauty of this piece fully in a poorly lit Alaska winter photo.  I truly wish we were neighbors, so you could come over, and barely get a hello out before I'm dragging you in to see my latest creation, my Farmhouse Bedside Table.

But what I would be most proud of is the super smooth sliding drawers.  Only my friends that know me from my blog could understand the satisfaction and pride in something as simple as a smooth sliding drawer in a handmade nightstand.  I did some thinking, some testing, so redoing, and I'm so proud today to show you a different method to drawers.

Rolling Industrial Shelves

PDF versionPDF version

Additional Photos

Dimensions: 
Dimensions: 75.5″h x 69.25″w x 18″d
Dimensions: 

15 – 2×6 Pine Boards, 8 foot length (6′ would be even better, but I’m not sure they make that size!)
4 – 2 x 4 Pine Boards, 8 foot length
10 – 1×2 Pine Boards, 6 foot length (again, I’m not sure they come in 6′, if they don’t, you will need to buy the 8 footers!)
2 – 1 x 2 Pine Boards, 8 foot length
1 – 2 x 2 Pine Boards, 10 foot length, OR 2 – 8 foot boards
OPTIONAL: dowel, metal rod or cabling Qty. 4 at 67.25″L
OPTIONAL: 4 metal angle brackets
4 – 4″ to 6″ Caster Wheels (metal ones are best)
2″ Screws
2″ Finish Nails
Wood Glue and Finishing Supplies

Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
circular saw
sander
level
countersink drill bit
Cut List: 

15 – 2×6 @ 64.75″ (Shelves)
10 – 1 x 2 @ 66.25″ (Shelves Front Trim)
10 – 1 x 2 @ 16.5″ (Shelves Side Trim)
10 – 2 x 2 @ 11″ (“Ladder” Sides)
4 – 2 x 4 @ 75.5″ (“Ladder” Legs)
4 – 67.25″ Dowel or Metal Rod

Skill Level: 
Estimated Cost: 
Style: 

Step 1

Start by building FIVE shelves.

Red = 2×6 @64.75″ Shelvf board
Blue = 1×2 @16.5″ Shelves Side Trim board
Yellow = 1×2 @ 66.25 Shelves Front Trim board

If you have a pocket hole system, attach your shelves together using pocket holes. If not, then end 1×2 (blue) will keep everything together, but there will not be a joint between the 2x6s. An easy work around would be to use wood dowels or small metal brackets on the underside.

Step 2

Ends

If you have a pocket hole system, attach the 2×2 end trim to the legs. These boards are optional and are not necessary for the structure of the shelf. If you like the looks of the end trim, you can simply add it after you add the shelves.

Green = 2×4 @ 75.5″ “Ladder” legs
Pink = 2×2 @11″ “Ladder” sides

Summary: 

Roll these industrial shelves into your dining room or living room for a little extra storage with a lot of style. Features industrial hardware, rustic design, and five large shelves.

Step 3

Decorative Rods

If you choose to use the decorative rods, mark the back legs as shown in the diagram above. Predrill holes with a bit that matches the diameter of your rods (ANA NOTE: I’ve been on enough concrete pours to know exactly what I would use here – Rebar is cheap, easy to cut, and has the rustic, industrial look. Ask for it in the concrete section of your home improvement store) Cut your rods to fit.

Step 4

Assembly

Attach the bottom shelve to the side ladders (or legs), as well as gluing all of your dowels into place as you attach the bottom shelve. Continue attaching the shelves with 17″ of space between each one.

I'm REALLY nervous to post this - this is my first plan and I just know Ana and all of you will have a bunch of ideas on how to improve the design. :) Which is great! I'm hoping to post this plan along with some questions so that we can figure it out the best way to build it together.
I'm REALLY nervous to post this - this is my first plan and I just know Ana and all of you will have a bunch of ideas on how to improve the design. :) Which is great! I'm hoping to post this plan along with some questions so that we can figure it out the best way to build it together.

Ana mentioned wanting to make up these plans ("inspired" by the Wisteria Recycled Pine Wood Bookcase - but I honestly couldn't wait (those darn buildies!) and I know how busy she is so I thought I'd take the plunge!

Perfect Cubby Bench

PDF versionPDF version
Dimensions: 

2 – 1×12 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1×3 @ 8 feet long
Scrap 1/4″ plywood for the back (optional)
2″ screws or 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws
1 1/4″ brad or finish nails
wood glue
wood filler
sandpaper
paint and primer
3 Fabric Drawers (make sure yours fit!)

Tools: 
measuring tape
square
pencil
safety glasses
hearing protection
drill
circular saw
jigsaw
sander
level
countersink drill bit
Cut List: 

2 – 1×12 @ 21″ (Sides)
3 – 1×12 @ 34 1/2″ (Shelves)
2 – 1×3 @ 34 1/2″ (Footer/Back)
2 – 1×12 @ 11″ (Cubby Dividers)
2 – 1×12 @ 2 3/4″ (Top Cubby Dividers)
1/4″ plywood or other backing @ 36″ x 21″ (Back, optional)

Room: 
Skill Level: 
Estimated Cost: 
Style: 

Step 1

Box

Start by rounding off the top corners of the sides with a jigsaw. Clamp the two cut edges together and sand as one to get the same curve. Then mark then sides for the placement of the shelves. Predrill holes and attach the shelves to the sides with 2″ screws and glue or pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 2

Front/Back

Attach the front and back as shown in the diagram. For the bottom piece, make sure you also attach from the top into the top edge of the footer.

Summary: 

A perfect cubby bench, featuring three cubbies sized to fit standard fabric drawers.

Step 3

Back

Attach the back with 1 1/4″ finish nails and glue. If you have some smaller nails on hand, attach to the top. Otherwise, glue and clamp in place. Don’t worry, we’ll be adding more shelves to help with attaching the back better. The back is also optional.

Step 4

Cubby Dividers

This should be pretty easy – just mark, place your cubby dividers in place, and predrill holes. Screw down.

Step 5

Seat

Attach the remaining shelf as you did the other two shelves

Step 6

Top Dividers

Now this step isn’t so much as tricky, but will require some trust in glue. Measure out the placement of the final dividers and apply glue. Slide the dividers in place. Screw the dividers down through the seat and with 2″ screws. Let dry. They won’t budge. Not when the dividers are that s

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