You can build this desk with just a few tools and off the shelf lumber. This farmhouse style desk looks like a million bucks, but only cost $55 to build. Free plans with step by step diagrams, shopping and cut list by Ana White.

Preparation
- 5 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
- 1 – 1x4 @ 8 feet long
- 2 – 2x12 @ 6 feet long OR 4 – 2x6 @ 6 feet long
- 2 ½” self tapping wood screws for countersinking
- 2 ½” Pocket Hole screws
- 2 – 2x4 @ 20”
- 4 – 1x4 @ 18”
- 8 – 2x4 @ 10 ¾” (long point to long point, both ends cut NOT parallel at 45 degrees off square)
- 4 – 2x4 @ 21” ¾” (long point to long point, both ends cut NOT parallel at 45 degrees off square)
- 4 – 2x4 @ 21”
- 4 – 1x4 @ 3 ½”
- 3 – 2x4 @ 59”
- 2 – 2x4 @ 30 ¾” (long point to short point, both ends cut parallel at 45 degrees off square) - CUT TO FIT
- 2 – 2x12 @ 72” OR 4 2x6 @ 72” - Tabletop
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Instructions
Step 4
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Comments
annalea
Mon, 08/27/2012 - 12:17
Wow.
I really love this one . . . I wonder if a set of square 3.5" "bun" feet would push this over the top to astounding. I LOVE it as it is, though.
(Like maybe some of these? http://www.osbornewood.com/Square-Feet.cfm)
townsean
Mon, 08/27/2012 - 12:36
lovely!
I loooove this plan! I am needing a craft table and this would look perfect! If I wanted to increase the height to make it more appropriate for crafting use would I increase the height of the cross bars and legs by the same measurement?
townsean
Mon, 08/27/2012 - 13:31
The more I think about
The more I think about it...it would end up widening the table as well :(
Q (not verified)
Fri, 11/23/2012 - 22:10
At a glance, I think you
At a glance, I think you could adjust the height of the center straight 2x4 on the end, then cut your angled 2x4's accordingly, without widening your base. You will need mitre saw. Good luck!
smacneil
Mon, 08/27/2012 - 12:56
That's it!!! My anniversary present to hubbster!
I'm buying the materials TODAY and starting on this. I'm not even joking. This is PERFECT! I've been trying to modify the Rustic X console into a computer table but it just wasn't looking right.
This is bang-on. Way to go ladies!
Warren (not verified)
Tue, 08/28/2012 - 00:42
Great Lathe Stand as well.
Great plan Ana, i plan to make this one as a stand for an old Lathe i was recently been given, if i thicken everything up it should be stable i think.
smacneil
Tue, 08/28/2012 - 07:33
question... I don't get the measurement here
"2 – 2x4 @ 30 3/8” ¾” (long point to short point,..."
30 3/8" at parallel 45deg I get... but what's the 3/4" long to short point?
(see, I wasn't kidding... I'm cutting right now! LOL)
egroth@hartene…
Mon, 09/21/2015 - 05:35
Is it 30 3/8 or 30 3/4?
I don't understand the measurement for this cut either and am unable to see the previous response. Is it 30 3/8" or 30 3/4"?
The-Crafty-Cowgirl
Tue, 08/28/2012 - 18:23
How to Attach Top
I have now found my Labor Day Weekend project! And just in time to be completed for this semester's first round of tests!
But I did have one question, what would be the best way to attach the top? I have a pocket hole kit - I would obviously use that to attach the table top pieces together, so would I add pocket holes to the inside of the top piece attached in step 4?
smacneil
Tue, 08/28/2012 - 19:04
note... might want to get 1 extra 2x4
I'm not sure if it's because I am not advanced enough in my cut planning but I ran short of 2x4. I got one more to cover what's left.
Also, for the Canadians reading this, as always make sure you adjust the plans for your local dimensions. Our studs are not the same dims as in the USA.
I finished a dry-fitting assembly of mine (minus the back cross supports whose dimensions I haven't yet worked out) and it built very well.
I had to go with 2x6s for the top and some of them worped by the time I got to them. other than a planer does anyone have any ideas on how I could straighten them?