Community Brag Posts

Loved the simple lines of this project - the first one I attempted! I used a 1x10 instead of a 1x12 (because it fit better in my space) with the called for 1x6's. I looked for an interesting piece of knotty pine to add some interest. Two stains were layered and a top coat was added. Timeline is total time but spread out - includes time with a paint brush but not drying time.

This took much longer than it should have but I am very happy with the results. Finishing this with a brush was especially tedious. Time to try to to sell my wife on an HPLV sprayer... I breadboarded the ends to try to match our grown up version of this table. I wish their was an alternate plan that would allow me to drill an umbrella hole.

I love this storage bench!  I modified the cut sizes to make it a coffee table also.  I made it shorter and thinner.  Now I can put my feet up on it, put a drink on it, and store some toys or garden tools in it!  You can check out modifications by clicking here.  Thank you Ana for the great plans!

This was our first real project. We are pretty happy with how it turned out.

Things we learned:
1. Always trim the ends of the stock from the store. We missed one. Twas a bummer.
2. Clamp, Clamp, Clamp. Always clamp before you drill.
3. Sand and Finish all of the cut stock before you assemble it.
4. Drill the sides to the top basket first. That way, if your side is bowed, it will leave a space at the bottom.
5. We ended up using a hand screwdriver to assemble it. If your pilot holes are deep enough, this should be easy and more predictable.

countersink bit is a must have

When we resurfaced our deck last year we had to remove the built-in benches due to code regulations, so I knew I would get to make new benches this year. We wanted them to be a flexible size so we could rearrange the deck easily for eating, entertaining, enjoying the sun and the shade. Based on the size and shape of our deck, a square table for 6-8 people was going to be the best option.

After looking at a couple design plans, I decided to combine a few plans to get exactly what we wanted. To get a mid-sized square table I used the leg structure of the Fancy X Table with the construction method and the stability from 2x6s of the Square Pedestal Table. The top is joined from seven 45.5" lengths of 2x6 and two lengths of 2x4s. It ends up being 52.5" square. It is snug for eight people, but comfortable for six. We didn't end up using the skirt boards so there would be more knee room. The base is mounted on the diagonal for the same reason.

For the benches, I used the supports from the Fancy X Benches, with the bordered top from the Triple Pedestal Farmhouse Bench, since it would match the table top better. The benches are 48" long, and only two supports were used for each, inset 5" from the end of each bench. Likewise, I used a single stretch of 2x4s for the seats rather than seam them in two parts like the 106" long original plans. I did add an extra 2x2 support board under the seat platform to keep the 2x4s even over time. Overall, I made five benches - four for around the table and one for next to the BBQ. They are blue so they provide some color against the brown deck and green tree tops that surround the deck.

For both the table and the benches, I pre-stained the surfaces that make up the inside of the Xs. It made it easier to get good coverage there.

I also made a quick flip-down BBQ prep station, on similar lines to the Flip-down Wall Art Desk out of two 5/4x6 and two 5/4x4 cedar boards. The shelves are on adjustable pegs.

The costs broke down - with all hardware, screws, putty, sandpaper, stain, etc. - as: $90 for BBQ station (lots of hardware), $200 for 5 benches, and $155 for the table. I did a lot of sanding and filling to get the rough 2x4s smooth. In the end, there was about 50 hours in the benches, and 20 in the table. The BBQ station was less than a day, including mounting.

My wife and I made this based, after being inspired by Ana's plan. Very pleased with the result.

It didn't take me long at all to make these. I enjoyed making them and all my neighbors love them. They have a nice amount of space. I actually had to make mine smaller than the instructions. I had most of the wood on hand.

With the remodel budget for my powder room only being $300, I needed to get creative with the vanity. The room is tiny, so the vanity needed to fit well in the space and allow us to still move around. I had rescued this board from the dumpster at church when it was being remodeled and kept it in my garage until inspiration struck.
I'm not a carpenter, I try and I'm learning as I go, but the vanity turned out great for me. I made it to fit the $15 Craigslist vessel sink and the little nook in the bathroom. The towel bar was $1 at my local restore. It's nice and sturdy attached to the studs with "L" brackets.

For the tutorial on how I built it using one board, visit my blog.

We have a limited amount of counter space in our kitchen, while also having a large open space that is unused. We've always planned on including an island once we renovate, but we didn't want to wait. We decided to build a butcher block-style island with open shelving underneath - a simple design that would give us all the counter space we needed and some additional storage space.

We bought a premade bamboo tabletop, as well as 4x4 cedar posts for the legs, 2x4s for the framework, and 1x2 slats for the shelf.

You can see all of the details of how we built it in the blog post, but here are a few of the features:

- an interior framework that connects to the tabletop and outer framework so that no screws are visible on the outside

- countersunk GRK structural screws used to attach the legs htat look like carriage bolts

-feet are angle cut so that floor is less likely to be scratched if the island is moved

We're really proud of this build and are enjoying having so much extra counter space. It's amazing what you can get done in a weekend!

This project goes together very easily. Had my adult son come by and make it for his daughter.

Did make one adjustment ... the supporting bar on the small frame ... the one that determines the opening angle ... at 6" the chair was too open ... at 6 1/2" it was more comfortable for the little ones. We used glue and air-gun brads for joining ... once dry I was able to sit in the chair without collapse!