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I made the original plan higher and wider, and added an extra shelf. Very pleased with the outcome!

I built this media console from 100% reclaimed shipping pallet wood.  I added 4" steel hairpin legs which I thought went well with the rustic appearance of the wood.  The shelves that are in place are removable.  Although this is not built from one of Ana's plans I really enjoyed working with reclaimed wood and I hope this post will inspire others to do the same. 

- Brad 

Instagram: Timberandsoul 

Since my daughter turned 5, she has joined the ranks of those children (un)fortunate enough to have 2 bedrooms to furnish. In approaching her 6th birthday I asked her mother if there was anything she needed for her new room at her house, and she suggested a new table to do colouring/craft etc at. I was actually searching to buy a table and chairs, and was decidedly underwhelmed by the selection and the quality/cost ratio on offer. 

Thankfully I stumbled across the plans for the Clara Table, and it was precisely what I was after. I have made various tables before, for garden and dining, and have always gone with reclaimed wood and a rustic style, but for this I did just use the plans as-is, and I bought new pine timber purely for the convenience of it. 

The table is simple to build, I already had a pocket hole jig, and the table itself took about 90minutes to build. Most of this time was spent sanding off the foaming glue I decided to use between the planks used for the top. If you are considering using this sort of glue, or indeed any glue, I'd say it isn't necessary. I had neverade a table top of this construction before, and went for the belt and braces approach. In my opinion it's totally unnecessary, doesn't add much security, but adds plenty of time to the project. If you really want, I'd go for bog standard wood glue, but by the time you screw it onto the legs, it's solid as a rock anyway.

It is mentioned to set the aprons back a way, to avoid splitting the legs. I did this, by using an off-cut of the 3x1 as a spacer on the face of the aprons as I screwed them in. Worked a treat, set the aprons back, but not all the way, and gives the illusion of a little more heft to the dimensions.

I then painted the top with chalk based emulsion, distressed and did the signwriting to personalise it, finished it with wax and my daughter was more delighted than I ever thought any child could be by having a table daddy made for her birthday, and at a fraction of the cost of a shop bought one of far lower quality.

Am.so.pleased I stayed on this website, and have already lined up the matching chairs for her as my next project!

Thank you for inspiring me to get back to making things again...it's been a while!

The timber cost me about £20, and the biggest expense was all the paint tester pots for the top!

When I first saw this and showed it to my wife it became number one on my Honey Dew list. I did not like the open space between the bottom shelf and top, saw on this site where someone put a wine rack of shorts as a second shelf. So I did the same I used 1x4 instead of the 1x10 used on bottom shelf. I also used 1x4 for the top to help eliminate the gaps between the boards that the 2x4’s would cause. To help give something for the 2x4’s and the 2x6’s to attach to I screwed 2x2’s to the 1x4’s around the edge. Gives the illusion of 2x4’s and makes for a very smooth and flat surface for the top.

My first real furniture DIY project.  My wife has been asking for a farmhouse table for a couple of years and I found Ana's site 3 weeks ago.  By reading the plans the project seemed simple enough to give it a try.  I modified the plans to shorten the table to 72" to fit in our dining room.  I bought lumber from Lowe's and lumber costs for the table was approx $65 and the bench was right around $20.  My wife loves it and I have had multiple requests to make more tables for other family members.  The project took a week to complete working a few hours each evening after work.  Stained with Rust-Oleum Ultimate in Kona and 4 coats of a Rust-Oleum Polyurethane in Satin finish. A big thanks to Ana for the free plans and for my new hobby of furniture making!    *EDIT*  The table and bench are not as dark as the pictures show. 

I made this rustic vanity and mirror out of pine and stained it with a variety of different stains.

Ana's design caught my eye and I had to build one that was similar. I decided to modify the top because I really like the look of breadboard style tops. So the main difference is that I cut the top boards 41" long and added two 2x6 pieces for breadboards (about 27-27.5" long). So the total width still comes to 52". Turned out pretty cool!

This is a Lego Table that I built my Grandson for his birthday.  I found the plans for it on Rogueengineer.com

https://rogueengineer.com/free-diy-lego-table-plans/

I switched things up a bit by routing all of the edges to soften them, and I added the little mover men casters under each of the legs.

It's one of the better projects that I done recently, and nothing beat the look on his face when he saw it...

This is my first big woodworking project. That being said, there were a lot of mistakes that were made. In the pictures you can see the beginning stages when I was making the base cuts and assembling the table top. The picture with the dark top and natural legs was the beginning of one mistake. I bought gel stain because it was the color I liked but I had no idea how to use it correctly. Because of this I left the stain on and it was waaayyyyy too dark. I had to sand down the entire top and redo it. After fixing that I correctly stained the base, extensions, and bench. The extensions I made are not in the photos because I forgot to make the cuts to slide them in. I'm supposed to do that this weekend... After staining I polyurethaned the base, bench, and extensions to give them a nice shine. The table top I finished with Liquid Glass two part epoxy. That gave the top a super hard surface that shines and makes the normally soft pine top, rock hard. I figured this way when my daughters do homework on it they wouldn't leave their writing indented in my nice, new table. I hope you guys like it and I plan to do many more projects and post my results here. Thanks for taking the time to check this out.

With another baby on the way in a few months, we decided to move our 2+ year old daughter across the hall into her first big girl room. I built big sister the Kendal Extra Wide Dresser, Traditional Wood Toddler Bed, Letter A Shelf and a Dollhouse Bookcase and matched the colors with her new comforter, lamps and princess canopy tent from the Land of Nod outlet.

While I have built drawers with other projects (with less than spectacular results), it took some time and trial and error, but this is the first project that I was able to install drawers with any sort of success in lining them up (kind of) and getting them to work properly. Of course, bookcase drawers in a child's room are succeptible to a lot of wear and tear, so hopefully, they will hold up on us. We definitely have been satisfied with the result and love how it turned out.

Dining Room table and benches tops built from reclaimed Douglas Fir and table and bench bases built from 4x4 posts.

This is my first ever wood project. I helped my dad frame his basement a couple years ago and figured that a hand built table would be a nice piece of furniture to have as my wife and I begin to start a family. I've been gathering tools for a few months to begin making furniture and I chose to start with this piece.

I had read that a few people found that the 2x6's on the table top caught crumbs so I picked up a cheap, used table saw and squared off the edges so that the table top would be more consistently flat.

For the legs, I wanted to use 4x4 untreated posts but could not find them so I used the table saw to cut down the 2x4's so that, when screwed together, they formed 3x3 legs. I then used a 0.25 inch round router bit to sound off all the edges on both the legs and all exposed edges around the outside of the table.

I finished with two coats of early american stain and in between applied a distressing technique I picked up from one other blog post.

I am 95% happy with how the table has turned out. Structurally is it very sound. If I was to do it over I would have screwed the entire tabletop in with pocket hole screws to eliminate holes on the surface.

This angle frame Twin over Full bunk bed with a trundle was made of yellow pine and stained with a dark minwax stain from Homedepot. 

I believe I built this to spec from the original plans without much deviation using higher-grade pine boards (straight and not too many knots).  It took an afternoon to build.  I primed then painted with 3 coats of "Mocha" paint.  There are 3 antique bronze hooks which are hard to see, but go well. The biggest challenge was finding baskets to fit, after the fact.  I happened to get lucky with baskets for the bottom bench, but never did find anything to fit the top, at least in the way I envisioned.  I wish I'd have located a set of baskets first, then measured and built the bench and shelf to suit the baskets.  The bottom baskets actually stick out the back of the bench by about 3/4". Any rectangular baskets I found for the shelves seemed to stick out the front a couple inches.  I highly recommend getting your baskets FIRST, then adjusting your measurements to accomodate them.

How I Spent My Spring Break Well, it was a long week but I finally finished. I made 2 complete sets of loft beds for my oldest son and my daughter. The plans were great and easy to follow. A few notes; the actual width of a 1 x 8 is 7.25 inches (not 7.5) and a 1 x 12 is actually 11.25 inches (not 11.5). I noticed this when constructing the legs and putting the optional shelf supports on the large bookcase. It's not a huge deal, it's only a quarter of an inch. Also, if you are going to assemble and paint in the room, paint the interior of the bed area BEFORE attaching the slats. That added a lot of extra painting time for me. I made a few modifications as well. For the desk, my wife suggested that the width of a 1 x12 was a bit narrow, so I cut a 1 x 6 and biscuit joined it to the desk front. I cut a 22.5 degree angle on the end that meets up with the small bookcase that is attached to the desk. The straight edge lines up with the face of the other small bookcase, like a puzzle piece. I then covered the desk top with a piece of plexiglass to make the surface smoother and to hold picture (slide under the plexiglass). In addition, I bought an LED light system (about $40 from IKEA) and installed under the 2 top shelves of the large bookcase. Really cool effect and the kids love it! Overall, I am very happy with the project results. Looks great, very solid and lumber on cost about $400 for 2 complete sets. Just need to put in some sweat...