21" wall kitchen cabinet plans from ana-white.com
8 feet of 1x2s for face frame
3/4" plywood ripped into strips 10-1/4" wide
1x4 or plywood scrap for the back support
1/4" plywood for back
1-1/4" pocket hole screws
3/4" finish nails for attaching back
edge banding for finishing shelf fronts
shelf pins for adding shelves
DOOR and 1-1/4" concealed hinges for FACE FRAMES
2 - 3/4" plywood @ 10-1/4" x 30" (Sides)
2 - 3/4" plywood @ 10-1/4" x 19" (Top/Bottom)
1 - 3/4" plwyood OR 1x4 @ 19" (Back Top Support)
1 - 1/4" plywood @ 30" x 20-1/2" (Back)
2 - 1x2 @ 30" (Face Frame)
2 - 1x2 @ 18" (Face Frame(
Shelves should be cut to fit depending on attaching and if you use edge banding
FULL OVERLAY DOOR SIZE 20-1/2" x 29"
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
First, make up your sides by drilling shelf pin holes on the insides for adjustable shelves (I use a Kreg Shelf Pin Jig) - it's much easier to do this now than after assembly - and drill 3/4" pocket holes facing the front for attaching face frames in later steps (I use a Kreg Jig for drilling pocket holes).
For taller shelves, you would simply just cut the sides taller. For deeper shelves, you would simply adjust your plywood rip width.
The back support is very important because you will use it to hang the wall cabinets on the wall. We used prefinished plywood for the plywood, and simply used the scrap leftover for the back support (it ended up being about 3" wide). A 1x4 would also do the trick but just don't forget, you will be able to see this board when the cabinet is open.
TIP: For especially wide cabinets or cabinets with expected heavy loads, a second bottom support is recommended for additional attachment to studs in walls.
We cut all of our shelves 1/4" less in width and depth than the top and bottom to allow for shelf pins and adding edge banding.
You can see how we added edge banding here.
For the doors, we opted for full overlays with concealed face frame hinges. The end goal of the cabinets with full overlay doors is a 1/2" reveal of the face frames when done. So this means 1/2" gap to bottom and top and 1/4" side to side (since a neighboring cabinet will also have a 1/4" gap).
I'll be sharing a post soon on how we hung the cabinets - so stay tuned for that!
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.