6 Cube Organizer

Submitted by Ana White on Tue, 01/07/2020 - 13:09
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Build your own 6 cube organizer bookcase designed to fit standard fabric cubes!  The cubby design helps with organization and keeping items separated.  We love the legs - so it's more like a real piece of furniture.  Solid wood construction is easy to paint or stain. Free step by step plans from Ana-White.com

DIY 6 Cube Organizer Plans

Built and photographed by Hillary from The Friendly Home

6 cube organizer dimensions shown in diagram
Dimensions are shown above


Shopping List
  • 1 1x12, 12’ Long
  • 1 1x12, 8’ Long
  • 5 1x2s, 8’ Length
  • 2” self tapping wood screws or 1-1/4" pocket hole screws
  • 1 1/4” and 3/4" brad nails
  • Small Tube Wood Glue
  • Medium Grit Sandpaper
  • Finishing Supplies including wood filler, paint or stain of choice

Shopping List is for One 6 Cube Organizer Bookshelf

Cut List
  • 1- 1x12 @ 40 1/2” Top
  • 2- 1x12 @ 26 3/4 “ Sides
  • 2- 1x12 @ 39” Shelves
  • 4- 1x12 @ 12 1/4” Cubby Dividers
  • 4- 1x2 @ 31” Legs
  • 6- 1x2 @ about 37 1/2” Side Shelf trim - you should measure and cut these pieces to fit
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Circular Saw
Power Sander


Step 1

Mark out all of your joints as shown in the diagram on the cut pieces. Predrill and countersink all screws, using 2” screws and glue. Adjust for square.

NOTE: You can also use 1-1/4" pocket hole screws and a Kreg Jig for construction.

Step 2

Attach the bottom shelf divider pieces to the bottom shelf with 2" screws.

Then attach bottom shelf to sides (with glue where the vertical cubby dividers line up).

A 1x2 will be added to further strengthen this joint.

Step 3

Attach legs to the sides, flush on all sides, with 1-1/4" brad nails and wood glue.

Step 4

Measure and cut the horizontal trim to fit on the front and backs of the bookshelf. Repeat for back.

Step 5

Attach back with 3/4" brad nails and glue.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Sand the project with medium grit sandpaper.


MacDaddy (not verified)

Sun, 08/26/2012 - 17:19

You can substitute plywood of just about any type just fine - you'll just need to cut it to your dimensions. (Many lumber or hardware stores will offer cutting services for you, so be sure to ask)

LindseyA (not verified)

Sun, 04/17/2011 - 18:47

Do you have any suggestions for adding doors?  I would love to do this project with doors on either end for some hidden storage.  Thanks for your time!


Tue, 05/31/2011 - 21:28

Okay, we made the cubes bookcases this weekend and OMG, I clearly am lame! How do you successfully get your cubbies square?! We used a speed square but it's embarrassing! I almost (really) don't want to post pictures!


Sat, 09/27/2014 - 01:35

If your cubies are fixed and you can  screw your 2 sides to the top square. The easy way for me is to cut a piece of scrape the height of the shelfand use that as a spacer. Then using pocket hole screws attach  shelves in to sides.Then move spacer down to align the next shelf .and repeat unil  all shelves are done . I hope this help .

remember : There is no soch thing as a stupid question!!


Wed, 06/01/2011 - 07:46

When you first start out, that's a major challenge. I have some horrendous practice joints to prove it. Eventually you will develop a very practical understanding of geometry and a greatly reduced dependency on numbers.

To make sure my shelf dividers were vertical, here's what I would do:

1. Arrange my top and bottom pieces so that their back edges touched, and the faces that would touch the vertical dividers were both up. Assuming that the pieces were the same size, I would make sure the ends were aligned.

2. On -one- of the front edges, mark off where the vertical dividers will go. Establish that this will be either the right or left edge of the divider.

3. Using a framing square (the really big metal ones), extend those lines back across both faces. If the shelves are deeper than the framing square can handle, mark as much as I can and then extend it with a good metal straight edge. There's no skimping on the straight edge though, it needs to be at least as long as the two faces combined.

4. During assembly, use these reference lines to line up the edges of the dividers and secure them. And always remember to keep the same side of the divider, on both top and bottom, on the same side of the reference line.

Because I'm not very trusting of my ability to line things up against a line and keep it there while fastening, I'd probably cut a dado, or shallow groove, to hold the vertical dividers. That's a mildly advanced topic though.


Fri, 12/09/2011 - 16:19

This looks so awesome, simple and easy to make, it's classy and I love it. I've been searching for a good while a present for my sister's new how and it looks like I am in the right place for some orientation. I've also found this interior design Westchester resource that I rely on.


Wed, 03/07/2012 - 04:58

The diagram mentions using shelving instead of 1x12s to save money. How would you do this? What type of shelving?


Wed, 03/07/2012 - 05:44

You can find pre-finished shelves at most home improvement stores. Menards has huge piles of them in varying lengths and widths.

You'd use them just like a 1x12, cutting them to the appropriate length and attaching them with pocket screws just like you would a 1x12. The material is typically particle board, usually with melamine veneer on the faces.

livetalk (not verified)

Sat, 07/14/2012 - 01:34

I have learned to substitute a lot of things. I made the $4 stackable chairs and Clara's table and had to improvise on a lot of things! I finally found countersink bits for the drill, but at $20 a piece, I have had to learn to join my boards in a different way!!! But my most current problem is not being able to purchase 1x12's. I can buy 1x7's and then I have to cut them to the width that I need. I am new to building, but I LOVE it!!!. vpn server

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