Add storage and seating, with a custom fit built in banquette bench with flip up storage. Can be made as a corner bench, breakfast nook bench, or window seat.
This detailed plan walks you through the steps with diagrams, videos tutorial, and material lists. Free plans by Ana-White.com
Here's How I Built this Bench
I built frames to fit the space using 2x4s, then elevated the frames with legs.
I covered the frames with 1/4" thick plywood.
Then I trimmed it with 1x3 boards and added a 3/4" thick plywood top.
Watch the Quick Build Video
How Has this Built-In Bench Held Up?
We have this bench in a short term rental, and after a couple of years of use by guests, it still looks brand new! I did build a new table for the bench that we are still loving. We are very happy with this project.
Can I Build Any Size?
Yes, this bench plan is designed to be custom fit to your space. Your 2x4 frames will determine the size, and everything past that is just measuring and cutting to fit.
How Much Did it Cost to Build?
For this bench, about 8 foot x 10 foot, 2 feet deep (it's huge!!!) I used about 10 2x4x8s, 1 sheet of 1/4" plywood, 1 sheet of 3/4" plywood, and about 10 1x3x8 boards. I used a half a gallon of paint, screws, alot of nails and inexpensive hinges. Overall cost was under $300. Similar sized benches are upwards of $5000!
How Long Did it Take to Build?
Three days total, the first day was getting materials, prepping the space, and then I got the benches framed up. The second day I pretty much finished building it. The third day was painting it.
Can I Build at an Angle for a Dining Nook?
Yes, you'll still build the same way, just leave dead space in the angled areas. It will be a little tricky on the trim out - this may require a compound miter saw.
Can I Build a Straight Bench?
Yep, even easier. Just build a single straight bench. But maybe consider attaching to the wall behind to keep it in place.
Can I Keep My Baseboard Trim?
Yes, in this project, I kept the baseboard, and simply scribed the trim around it. You can remove the baseboard too.
Free Plans to Build this Banquette Bench
Here's the step by step plans, designed to be modified as a corner bench, nook bench, window seat bench - whatever you need!
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Preparation
- 2x4s for frame
- 1/4" plywood for sheeting sides
- 3/4" plywood for top panels (can also use project boards or similar)
- 1x3s for trim (most of the trim is 1x3)
- 1x2 and 1x4 recommended for trimming corners
- 2-1/2" long self tapping star bit screws for 2x4 framing
- 3/4" and 1-1/4" brad nails for trim, attaching 1/4" plywood
- edge banding if using 3/4" plywood for top
- Hinges and hinge supports (as shown, use surface mount hinges)
- Finishing supplies - wood filler, 120 grit sand paper, primer and paint
Cut to fit space and desired dimensions
Instructions
Step 1
Determine how deep you would like your benches to be. I choose a 24" depth, so my 2x4 frame ends are 20" long. I would not recommend smaller than 18" deep (14" cut length), it will be difficult to access the storage area and not much seating area. These are the light blue boards in the diagram.
Build 2x4 frames in the shape of the banquette seating. If doing multiple benches (corner or angled), start with one bench, then measure and cut the second and third benches to fit.
If keeping baseboard, the frames can be fit to the overall wall length, as they will sit over the baseboard.
Add center supports for spans over 4 feet.
Use 2-1/2" screws for attaching frames together.
Step 2
Cut legs all to same length, as shown 17-1/4".
Attach legs to insides of frame with 2-1/2" screws.
Make sure the bench frames are level and set square on the floor. Make any modifications now.
Step 3
Along the bottoms, add framing to tie the legs together and also to create a nailer for attaching the plywood and trim in later steps. The lengths should match the upper framing boards, as color coded in the diagram.
In cases where you are building around baseboard trim, place the end base 2x4 to the insides of the legs, and cut the end front 2x4 to the end of the leg, not the full length.
Attach with 2-1/2" screws.
Step 4
Add scrap wood blocking at the back to support the hinges and top with the 2-1/2" screws.
Add additional legs for spans more than 4 feet to prevent sagging.
Screw to the wall if needed.
Make sure the frame is level and does not rock or wobble.
Step 5
Rip 1/4" plywood to the height of the bench.
Then cross cut pieces to fit over the frames.
Remember the ends and corners will all be trimmed, so this step is very forgiving.
Attach with 3/4" brad nails and glue.
Step 6
Measure and cut to fit 1x3s to trim out the top and bottom.
Attach with 1-1/4" brad nails and glue.
NOTE: Consider the most visible sides, and trim last, so butt ends are less visible when finished.
Step 7
Fill in the upright trim pieces.
For inside corner, a 1x4 to 1x3 works well. For outside corners, a 1x2 to 1x3 works well.
Use the trim to cover the gaps at the ends where the banquette meets walls.
Use 1-1/4" trim and glue to secure.
Step 8
Begin top trim by attach 1x3s at top, with 3/4" overhangs on front and sides. If butting against a wall, set flush to wall.
Use 1-1/4" brad nails and wood glue.
Step 9
Trim back with 1x3s.
If walls are bowed, out of square etc, an upper trim board can be added (like a countertop backsplash) to hide any differences between the wall and the back trim. This can be anything from a shoe moulding piece, or a taller 1x4 or 1x6.
Step 10
Rip the 3/4" plywood pieces into the width of the bench seats, accounting for a 1/4" gap at the hinge placement. Apply edge banding to the front edge.
Cut the first piece and fit.
Then cut the next piece.
Longer runs can be broken up into multiple hinged tops, just make sure the ends are fully supported.
Adjust as needed, the 1/4" gaps in between the top pieces are designed to help with needed adjustments.
Attach with hinges.
Hinge supports can help prevent heavy tops from slamming shut.
Then I sanded with 120 grit sandpaper.
I then vacuumed sanding residue off the project.
Between coats and after final coat, very light sanding with 220 grit sanding block.
Comments
jennievh
Thu, 12/01/2022 - 20:44
Love this!
This is great! I've been wanting to put in seats like this in a bump-out in my living room.
- How hard would it be, do you think, to put in drawers instead of flip-up tops? I like the idea of not having to remove the cushions to access the space.
- Would these work for sleeping, in a pinch? I looked at small mattresses at IKEA for cushions but then they'd be about 33" deep instead of 24", and that might not be comfortable for seating any more.
Also, any hints on how to make them level if your floor is not level? (House is 100+ years old!)