# Corner Cupboard

Difficulty
Intermediate
|

This corner cupboard can turn an empty corner into a storage and display spot. Cleverly designed to minimize board waste and to be easy to build.

Special thanks to Tamara for sharing her photos with us.

Thank you Mamma_joy for not only requesting this plan, but actually believing that I might have the ability to come up with a simple way to build it.  So many of you have requested corner cabinets, and I've been listening.  But like Erin says in her project suggestion, how would we build this one without beveling the sides, requiring a table saw?  Definitely required some deep thinking, and I'm so proud to publish this plan AND also say, it's pretty simple, totally buildable, and you don't have to have a table saw at your disposal.

I tried to keep the dimensions close to Erin's suggestion for the plan

But it's a no brainer to modify the corner cupboard to be a little wider

Just use a 1x12 for the back instead of a 1x8 as the plan calls for.  For both plans, the shelves are made of 1x12s, so the shelves will only be approximately 11 1/2" deep.

So go measure your corner.  Do you have 21 1/2" of space?  Then the question is, do you have some beadboard?

Dimensions
72" tall. Width and Depth can vary as built.

### Preparation

Shopping List

2 – 1x12s, 6 feet long
1 – 1×8, 6 feet long
1 – 1×4, 6 feet long
1 sheet of beadboard, preferably 1/4″ to 3/8″ thick
3 – 1x3s, 8 feet long
1 – 1×2, 3 feet long
1 – 36″ long crown moulding or other moulding

Cut List

1 – 1×8 @ 72″ (Back)
6 – 1×12 @ 30 1/2″, both ends cut at 45 degrees off square (see step 1)
2 – 1×3 @ 72″ (Front Side Trim)
2 – Beadboard @ 16 1/4″ x 72″ (Measure for exact fit)
2 – 1×4 @ 26 1/2″ (Top and Bottom Trim, measure for exact fit)
1 – 1×2 @ 26 1/2″ (Tabletop trim, measure for exact fit)
top moulding – measure to fit
Doors – see step 6.

### Step 1

Cut Shelves

This step would be really straight forward if widths of boards didn’t vary so much depending on where you live. So take your 1×8 pine boards and measure how wide they are. Can be anywhere from 7″ to 7 1/2″. Note this then start cutting your shelves by cutting one end of the 1×12 at 45 degrees. Then measure the width of the 1×8 (in the example above that is 7 1/2″) and a 45 degree cut PERPENDICULAR to the first cut. Then continue making cuts to make all your shelves. In this manner you can easily adjust the width of your back to the width of a 1×12 or 1×10. You will need to cut six shelves totally.

### Step 2

Back

Now mark the back as shown in the diagram above. All shelves need to be fixed. Predrill your holes or pocket holes and apply glue. Attach back to shelves with 2″ screws and glue.

### Step 3

Front Side Trim

Mark the front side trim 1/2″ in all the way down the length of the back side of the side trim. Then mark all shelf locations as indicated in the above diagram. Predrill holes. Consider the depth of your screws and the angled shelf cuts as you place your screws – 2″ screws on the inside and 1 1/4″ screws on the outer edge, 2 screws per shelf. Use glue. Don’t stress this one too much, the sides are going to get beadboard (super strong) over them. The main thing is to get these lined up just right.

### Step 4

Measure the width of the open spaces on the back sides, and cut your beadboard to fit. Shown above is the perfect dimensions for 1x12s that measure 11 1/2″ wide. Try to get a nice tight fit. Apply glue to the shelf edges that are exposed and use 1 1/4″ screws to attach the beadboard to the shelves. Keep the beadboard first and foremost flush to the back 1×8, as this is the seam that will be most visible. The front seams are hidden behind the front side trim.

### Step 6

Top Moulding

Measure the top and tack the crown o

### Step 7

Doors

The doors are the most difficult part because most of us don’t have routers or tablesaws. If you do have a router or table saw, you can build your doors inset as shown above. because of the shelf behind the doors, the doors must be no more than 3/4″ thick, so you will have to inset the panel in the frame of the door. There are other options.

### Step 8

You can build an overlay door. Simply build a frame out of 1x3s, either using a Kreg Jig™ or 3″ fine screws to build the frame. Then tack beadboard to the back, but make sure the beadboard would fit in the opening in the shelf.

### Step 9

And you would want to add the center post to remove any gaps between the doors.

Project Type
Room

In reply to by shelley (not verified)

Sat, 02/11/2012 - 15:30

### Pressure Treated

Pressure treated wood is a terrible choice for any furniture project. It's 100% guaranteed to warp, twist and crack. It's fine on a deck, where you're willing to accept that in return for not rotting. You don't want that in furniture in your house.

The toxicity issue is also worth considering. If the wood is still wet it will definitely stain your floors. Painting does seal the toxins in and makes them safe, unless your children develop a sudden need to eat the entire board (in which case the long-term toxicity effects are the least of your worries).

But the wood will not make a satisfactory material for indoor furniture. Please also see my standardized rant on purchasing lumber.

Sat, 02/11/2012 - 19:30

### thank you

thank you so much for your insight and your input on this sight. i am new to all this and am learning as i go. i went to the big box place today and couldn't find the 4x4 posts for the twin farmhouse. all they had was that pressure treated stuff. i will check local mom and pop places and see what i can find. i enjoyed your rant on purchase lumber i had a good lol moment with the 5 o'clock shadow bit!! : ) i saw a modification for this by gluing 2x4's but i don't think it looks good. would i have to putty the seam or add a veneer to hide the jointed wood since it faces the front. what would you recommend? i am trying to make it with with no mortise rail fittings. thanks!

Sun, 02/12/2012 - 04:53

### 2x4 Glue Up

You can make a glue up look nice if you trim the rounded edges off. Unfortunately that requires either a table saw with a very good rip blade, which you probably don't have, or a good jack plane (which you probably also don't have, but costs a lot less and takes a lot less room).

Tue, 12/28/2010 - 04:56

### Add this one to my list!

Add this one to my list!

Tue, 12/28/2010 - 05:44

### Yay! Yay! and

Yay! Yay! and Yay!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Tue, 12/28/2010 - 06:46

### I wouldn't use pressure

I wouldn't use pressure treated (PT) for several reasons, the #1 being the chemicals they use.

Other reasons I wouldn't are:
* PT is several times heavier than untreated wood.
* PT is generally harder to cut with regular blades. I'm not saying it can't be done, but you might have a hard time if you don't have a sharp blade.
* PT is usually very wet feeling and needs a while (weeks) to dry, even outside.

I really just don't think its worth trying, but you may have better luck.

Tue, 12/28/2010 - 07:00

### Ana, I just fell in love with

Ana, I just fell in love with you again. I am hopeful that you will have plans for kitchen cabinets up before DH and I start building them ourselves. Of course all a kitchen cabinet is...is a bookshelf with doors.

Tue, 12/28/2010 - 07:17

### LOVE LOVE LOVE LOVE LOVE

LOVE LOVE LOVE LOVE LOVE this!!! Thank you so much! :)

Tue, 12/28/2010 - 07:45

### It's low-quality wood, hard

It's low-quality wood, hard to cut, stinky, and doesn't paint or stain worth a darn.