How to Build a Floating Table with a Door

Submitted by Ana White on Wed, 06/02/2010 - 18:37
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If you are looking for a fast simple modern table to build, this just could be it. Using an inexpensive hollow core door and simple legs, you can build this table. Cut list has been updated to reflect reader comments (thank you readers!).

32" Wide x 80" Long x 30" High


Shopping List

Flush Hollow Core Door (no holes cut out of it or hinges) measuring 32″ x 80″
4 – 1×3, 8′ Long
4 – 1×4, 8′ Long
1 1/4″ Screws
2″ Screws
Wood Glue
Finishing Supplies

Common Materials
120 grit sandpaper
wood conditioner
paint brush
Cut List

7 – 1×3 @ 29″ (Under Table Supports)
2 – 1×3 @ 78 1/2″ (Inner Apron)
4 – 1×3 @ 28 1/8″ (End Legs)
4 – 1×4 @ 28 1/8″ (Side of Legs)
2 – 1×4 @ 73″ (Side Aprons)
2 – 1×4 @ 25 1/2″ (End Aprons)

Cutting Instructions

Hollow core doors come in a variety of widths, from 24″ to 36″. You can use any of these door sizes, you will just need to adjust the cut list for the door size. I love the idea of using a 24″ wide door and hacking yourself a office desk that is almost seven feet long! You could hide some caster wheels in the legs too.

From our reader comments, you will need to adjust the measurements of the plan to the exact dimensions of the door that you purchase. Please review all comments attached to this plan.

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Circular Saw
Power Sander
General Instructions

Work on a clean level surface, be safe, and have fun! And check for square after each step. Predrill all of your screwholes to avoid splitting the wood.


Step 1

Construct the table frame as shown above from 1x3s using 2″ screws and glue. Screw through the inner aprons into the under table supports. Leave about 12″ space between the supports.

Step 2

Use 1 1/4″ screws and glue to attach the end legs as shown above. Leave the 1/2″ gap on the tops (shown above as the bottom). Check the legs for square. These are the 1×3 boards.

Step 3

Attach the side legs to the table frame using 1 1/4″ screws and glue. Then attach to the end legs down the side, keep outside edges flush.

Step 4

Keeping the top edge (shown above as the bottom edge) of the aprons flush with the legs, leaving a 1/2″ gap from the top of the table frame and fasten in place with 1 1/4″ nails and glue (you can also use screws, but it’s not a support issue, so nails would be quicker and easier to hide).

Step 5

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
With a wood filler, fill all your nail holes and let dry completely. Overfill the holes because wood filler tends to shrink when dry. Then sand, starting with a coarse grit sandpaper and work your way to a fine grit sandpaper. Prime. Then paint as desired.
Help Improve This Plan

We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.


Aaron (not verified)

Thu, 06/03/2010 - 07:01

Cool design, I have a solid coreluan door I have sitting around just because I liked the woodgrain and thought it would make a neat tabletop. One flaw in this design (at least for my door) is that the unfinished edges where the veneer isn't applied, would show. I'm thinking the door needs to be trimmed out along the edges first....does this make any sense?

Tsu Dho Nimh (not verified)

Thu, 06/03/2010 - 08:57

Anna -
Hollow core doors are likely to dent if you do a table dance :) or if the toddler whacks it with a truck.

The 'skin" on the door is very thin and the reinforcement inside is just cardboard.

A solid-core door will cost a bit more, but be a lot sturdier.

Tsu Dho Nimh (not verified)

Thu, 06/03/2010 - 09:00

I have a birch door for a desk top.

I finished the edges with molding nailed and glued to the sides of the door. It's not quite birch, but it's close enough.

Kelley Jones (not verified)

Sun, 06/06/2010 - 15:45

Ana, I just built this table (still need to sand and paint). Anyway, I wanted to let you know that I had to buy 6 1x3's, NOT 4. Thanks for all your plans and inspiration! This was my second project from you and definitely NOT the last! :)

Belinda (not verified)

Sat, 07/17/2010 - 16:04

Hi Ana,

I recently came across your site, and I have to say - you saved me!
I am living on the small Caribbean island of Grenada, and furniture is not only very expensive, but also very ugly (most of all the more "reasonable" items, which are not cheap either). Since I will move to an unfurnished apartment soon, and can't really afford to buy all the furniture, I decided to try your plans. I am already addicted!!! So far, we (me and my boyfriend, who was a great help since we have to cut all the pieces manually) built a coffee table (the spa bench) and are now almost done with the floating table.

I have one remark to this one:
I bought a 30"x80" hollow core door, and I was lazy and didn't measure it first, but only realized later on, that it would not be floating on top, but would be too narrow for the frame!! The door was only 30", not 32" like yours. But we solved it somehow, but now the tabletop is wider than the frame, which is OK.

The next project will be the stackable Outdoor Chair, which I will use indoors as dining chair. I will make cushions for them, so they should be alright I guess ;)
Will post pictures once we are finished!

Once again - THANKS a lot for your amazing blog!!!!!!

Warm and sunny greetings to Alaska.

Bobby (not verified)

Wed, 11/10/2010 - 16:38

Hey Ana,
A friend of mine showed me this site I was planning on building a dining room table and this one was perfect! I modified the sizing and used red oak 2x8 boards for the top but the concept is the same.

Thanks for the help!

Michael H. (not verified)

Sat, 11/13/2010 - 17:33

I just built this as my first project, and it was super easy! I used a 24x80 door because this is going to be my desk in the home office. It is the perfect size to fit all my stuff and have plenty of room to work. I still have to prep and paint, but I'll post finished pictures once its all done.

Thanks for the great post. Your site is really awesome! I think the A-frame bookshelves will be my next project.

Pat (not verified)

Fri, 12/17/2010 - 14:51


I think Kelley is correct. It should be 6 1x3, 8' long boards.
Thanks for the great plans...hope to make it this weekend.