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How to Build a Floating Table with a Door

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How to Build a Floating Table with a Door
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Difficulty
Beginner Projects
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If you are looking for a fast simple modern table to build, this just could be it. Using an inexpensive hollow core door and simple legs, you can build this table. Cut list has been updated to reflect reader comments (thank you readers!).

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How to Build a Floating Table with a Door

Dimensions
How to Build a Floating Table with a Door
32" Wide x 80" Long x 30" High

Preparation

Shopping List

Flush Hollow Core Door (no holes cut out of it or hinges) measuring 32″ x 80″ 4 – 1×3, 8′ Long 4 – 1×4, 8′ Long 1 1/4″ Screws 2″ Screws Wood Glue Finishing Supplies

Common Materials
Elmer's Wood Glue
Elmer's Wood Filler
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List

7 – 1×3 @ 29″ (Under Table Supports) 2 – 1×3 @ 78 1/2″ (Inner Apron) 4 – 1×3 @ 28 1/8″ (End Legs) 4 – 1×4 @ 28 1/8″ (Side of Legs) 2 – 1×4 @ 73″ (Side Aprons) 2 – 1×4 @ 25 1/2″ (End Aprons)

Cutting Instructions

MODIFICATIONS Hollow core doors come in a variety of widths, from 24″ to 36″. You can use any of these door sizes, you will just need to adjust the cut list for the door size. I love the idea of using a 24″ wide door and hacking yourself a office desk that is almost seven feet long! You could hide some caster wheels in the legs too. NOTE From our reader comments, you will need to adjust the measurements of the plan to the exact dimensions of the door that you purchase. Please review all comments attached to this plan.

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Circular Saw
Power Sander
General Instructions

Work on a clean level surface, be safe, and have fun! And check for square after each step. Predrill all of your screwholes to avoid splitting the wood.

Instructions

Step 1

TABLE FRAME
Construct the table frame as shown above from 1x3s using 2″ screws and glue. Screw through the inner aprons into the under table supports. Leave about 12″ space between the supports.

Step 2

END LEGS
Use 1 1/4″ screws and glue to attach the end legs as shown above. Leave the 1/2″ gap on the tops (shown above as the bottom). Check the legs for square. These are the 1×3 boards.

Step 3

SIDE LEGS
Attach the side legs to the table frame using 1 1/4″ screws and glue. Then attach to the end legs down the side, keep outside edges flush.

Step 4

Keeping the top edge (shown above as the bottom edge) of the aprons flush with the legs, leaving a 1/2″ gap from the top of the table frame and fasten in place with 1 1/4″ nails and glue (you can also use screws, but it’s not a support issue, so nails would be quicker and easier to hide).

Step 5

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
With a wood filler, fill all your nail holes and let dry completely. Overfill the holes because wood filler tends to shrink when dry. Then sand, starting with a coarse grit sandpaper and work your way to a fine grit sandpaper. Prime. Then paint as desired.
Project Type
Desk, Desk Systems and Project Table Plans
Dining Table Plans
Room
dining room
Style
Modern Style Furniture Plans

Comments

McCarty and Company (not verified)

Wed, 06/02/2010 - 18:45

I pray you are not sick. You said time is precious to you now. :-( I hope that all is well with you and your family.

Ana White (not verified)

Wed, 06/02/2010 - 18:50

Oh, I'm so sorry to have written that and given anyone the impression I'm not healthy! Thanks so much for thinking of me, but it's really just that I'm so busy, any free second I have is precious and goes to my family (as opposed to building a table just for fun). Blessings, Ana

Janell @ Isabe… (not verified)

Wed, 06/02/2010 - 19:05

A friend just sent me the link to your blog, fantastic! Just added it to my blogroll, I look forward to watching your projects!
Janell

Bobishi (not verified)

Wed, 06/02/2010 - 20:02

Oh my gosh! Exactly what I need! A thin table:) Thanks Ana xx WIll definately be building this one:)

Aubergine (not verified)

Wed, 06/02/2010 - 23:28

wanted to say I am currently using hollow doors as table tops in my office and if there is more money available consider a solid door, the hollow ones fill weak or flimsy.

Lindz Sims (not verified)

Thu, 06/03/2010 - 02:54

Awesome! This will be my first project...I think I'll make it a desk. I can't wait to have room for my computer plus sewing space too! Ana you are amazing. I can't believe I'm asking my husband for tools for my birthday and our anniversary!

Kate (not verified)

Thu, 06/03/2010 - 03:40

Oh my gosh, that's so funny that you posted it right now and mentioned about the 24" door to make a desk, Young House Love just blogged yesterday about doing just that! Good timing!

Kevin (not verified)

Thu, 06/03/2010 - 03:53

Nice plan! why not score a reclaimed hollow core door get some car body filler [bondo!] and fill those holes job done...

Greers (not verified)

Thu, 06/03/2010 - 06:12

You have literally read my mind! I decided yesterday that I needed to build a long skinny desk (Inspired by YHL) and I was going to use a door - I even priced it out! LOVE LOVE LOVE your site - have told everyone I know about it. You rock!

Aaron (not verified)

Thu, 06/03/2010 - 07:01

Cool design, I have a solid coreluan door I have sitting around just because I liked the woodgrain and thought it would make a neat tabletop. One flaw in this design (at least for my door) is that the unfinished edges where the veneer isn't applied, would show. I'm thinking the door needs to be trimmed out along the edges first....does this make any sense?

Tsu Dho Nimh (not verified)

Thu, 06/03/2010 - 08:57

Anna -
Hollow core doors are likely to dent if you do a table dance :) or if the toddler whacks it with a truck.

The 'skin" on the door is very thin and the reinforcement inside is just cardboard.

A solid-core door will cost a bit more, but be a lot sturdier.

Tsu Dho Nimh (not verified)

Thu, 06/03/2010 - 09:00

ADDING:
I have a birch door for a desk top.

I finished the edges with molding nailed and glued to the sides of the door. It's not quite birch, but it's close enough.

Kelley Jones (not verified)

Sun, 06/06/2010 - 15:45

Ana, I just built this table (still need to sand and paint). Anyway, I wanted to let you know that I had to buy 6 1x3's, NOT 4. Thanks for all your plans and inspiration! This was my second project from you and definitely NOT the last! :)

Belinda (not verified)

Sat, 07/17/2010 - 16:04

Hi Ana,

I recently came across your site, and I have to say - you saved me!
I am living on the small Caribbean island of Grenada, and furniture is not only very expensive, but also very ugly (most of all the more "reasonable" items, which are not cheap either). Since I will move to an unfurnished apartment soon, and can't really afford to buy all the furniture, I decided to try your plans. I am already addicted!!! So far, we (me and my boyfriend, who was a great help since we have to cut all the pieces manually) built a coffee table (the spa bench) and are now almost done with the floating table.

I have one remark to this one:
I bought a 30"x80" hollow core door, and I was lazy and didn't measure it first, but only realized later on, that it would not be floating on top, but would be too narrow for the frame!! The door was only 30", not 32" like yours. But we solved it somehow, but now the tabletop is wider than the frame, which is OK.

The next project will be the stackable Outdoor Chair, which I will use indoors as dining chair. I will make cushions for them, so they should be alright I guess ;)
Will post pictures once we are finished!

Once again - THANKS a lot for your amazing blog!!!!!!

Warm and sunny greetings to Alaska.

Bobby (not verified)

Wed, 11/10/2010 - 16:38

Hey Ana,
A friend of mine showed me this site I was planning on building a dining room table and this one was perfect! I modified the sizing and used red oak 2x8 boards for the top but the concept is the same.

Thanks for the help!

Michael H. (not verified)

Sat, 11/13/2010 - 17:33

I just built this as my first project, and it was super easy! I used a 24x80 door because this is going to be my desk in the home office. It is the perfect size to fit all my stuff and have plenty of room to work. I still have to prep and paint, but I'll post finished pictures once its all done.

Thanks for the great post. Your site is really awesome! I think the A-frame bookshelves will be my next project.

Pat (not verified)

Fri, 12/17/2010 - 14:51

Ana,

I think Kelley is correct. It should be 6 1x3, 8' long boards.
Thanks for the great plans...hope to make it this weekend.

Crystal Monkman (not verified)

Fri, 03/11/2011 - 16:02

Ana,
I see that you updated this plan since my last note on this but it's still not right. If you go to the store and buy a door marked 32" it will actually be 30" wide. The plan used to say that and then in the actual instructions showed a 32" wide door. When I was half way done building and found my top was two inches too narrow I of course immediately thought--I'll go buy a 34" door and that will be that BUT they don't sell 34" doors standard at the Home Depot so I was back home rebuilding for a couple more hours.

Crystal

Jake

Tue, 12/18/2012 - 03:57

Assuming I am using a non-solid core door. Is it ok to attach the door to the frame with PH screws from the frame into the perimeter of the door?

I am also thinking of putting a vertical divider down the middle of the door (1x6 on edge) so each grandkid will have their personal side of the desk. It will be placed perpendicular to the wall and will be shorter than in your plan but the concept you put forth is really helpful.