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Planked Wood Sideboard

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Submitted by Ana White on Mon, 02/27/2012 - 08:20
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How to build a wood sideboard inspired by Restoration Hardware Salvaged Wood Sideboard.

Gigantic.

Huge.

Enormous. 

Or how about amazing, beautiful, stunning, glorious?

Hillary's sideboard, inspired by Restoration Hardware Salvaged Wood Sideboard, retailing for no less than $2995, made of reclaimed pine, can be yours with some elbow grease and a flatbed cart full of lumber.

And you can paint or stain it any color you choose.  I love the very deep and lustrous milk paint finish Hillary finished this sideboard with.
I encourage you this morning - if you are building or not this sideboard - to stop over and read Hillary's post.  She's a talented and clever lady, with lots of tips and tricks that could be useful when building most projects.  
And of course, the full plans follow for those of you needing a sideboard in your home.
Dimensions
Dimensions are shown above. Huge - be warned!

Preparation

Shopping List

6 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
2 – 2x6 @ 8 feet long
7 – 1x4 @ 8 feet long
2 – 1x2 @ 8 feet long
1 – 1x6 @ 6 feet long
¼” thick x 3 ½” wide boards for door panels or ¼” plywood or paneling
1 – sheet ¾” hardwood plywood
10 feet of 4 ¼” base moulding
3 – 15” drawer slides
2 ½” pocket hole screws
1 ¼” pocket hole screws
1 ¼” finish nails
2 ½” finish nails
1 – sheet ¼” plywood

Common Materials
3/4 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
1-1/4" Pocket Hole Screws
2-1/2" Pocket Hole Screws
Elmer's Wood Glue
Elmer's Wood Filler
Cut List

4 - 2x4 @ 34 ½” (Legs)
4 – 2x4 @ 10 ½” (Panel ends)
6 – 1x4 @ 23 ½” (Side Panels)
2 – 2x4 @ 75 ½” (Bottom Supports)
1 – ¾” plywood @ 16 ¾” x 75 ½”
2 – ¾” plywood @ 16 ¾” x 30 ¼”
2 – 1x4 @ 18 1/8”
2 – 1x2 @ 75 ½”
2 – 1x2 @ 5 5/8”
2 – 1x2 @ 22 3/8”
2 – 2x4 @ 18”
2 – 2x4 @ 77”
2 – 2x6 @ 77”
8 – 1x4 @ 22 ¼”
8 – 1x4 @ 11”
¼” x 3 ½” hobby stock for backs of doors or ¼” plywood or paneling
2 – 1x4 @ 16 ¾”
6 – 1x4 @ 15 ½”
2 – 1x4 @ 33 3/4” (Measure and fit)
4 – 1x4 @ 15 5/8” (Measure and fit)
1x6 for drawer faces – cut to fit
1 – ¼” plywood @ 77” x 32” (Back)

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Starting on the inside 1x4 panel and working your way out to adding legs, build your ends with 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws, hiding your screws on the insides. Keep all edges flush. Remember that the backs are flush, but the outer side is not, with the 1x4 panel inset.

Step 2

I really wanted this sideboard to NEVER sag in the middle, so these boards are more for support than anything. I recommend attaching with 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws from the back side to hide. Set aside, we'll work on the storage part now.

Step 3

For the storage part, attach plywood dividers to bottom very carefully, making sure joints are square.

Step 4

Then fit the center divider into the base as shown above. Fit flush to back.

Step 5

Step 6

On the front, add trim, being very careful to make sure your trim is square and straight. Remember, we've got drawers to fit.

Step 7

The remaining front trim is flush to the inside of side cabinets, overhanging the center cabinet.

Step 8

Build top as shown in diagram.

Step 9

You can attach top now, or as Hillary recommends, attach top after installing drawers.

Step 10

Cut baseboard, mitering corners to fit bottom. Nail on with glue.

Step 11

Build your door frames as shown above.

Step 12

Then attach hobby stock to centers to complete doors.

Step 13

These are for the drawers.

Step 14

Build drawers to fit openings. Remember, most drawer slides require 1/2" clearance on each side, or 1" overall. It's always a good idea to double check measurements with diagrams before building drawers.

Step 15

Install drawers with slides, set in 3/4" for the drawer faces. Then cut drawer faces and attach to drawers with 1 1/4" finish nails and glue.

Step 16

Add back. I really loved how Hillary inset her back.

Step 17

And finally, add shelves.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type
Console Table Plans
Buffet, Sideboard and Credenza Plans
Room
dining room
kitchen
Style
Farmhouse Furniture

Comments

laceywils

Mon, 08/20/2012 - 15:40

I love this! Hubby and I are going to try to build this for our dining room...any suggestions on a hutch?

Steve Lawrence

Mon, 09/10/2012 - 15:13

New to all of this and already confused! When you call out separate dimensions for the pocket holes and the pocket hole screws, what does that mean. I understand the length of the screw, but looking at the Kreg Jig, aren't all the holes the same size? What's the difference between a 3/4" pocket hole and a 1 3/4 " pocket hole? (Yes, I know the easy answer is 1"; but you know what I mean!!)

Quintin79

Mon, 09/10/2012 - 16:13

The 3/4 is for your 1x dimensional lumber and the 1 1/2 is for your 2x dimensional lumber. Reasoning is if you actually measure a 1x4 it is 3/4x3 1/2. 2x4 is 1 1/2x3 1/2.

BJW1262

Fri, 03/01/2013 - 12:09

Just posted a brag about this project. Thank you for the awesome plans. I inset the back as described in your blog and it worked fantastic. I needed the extra storage space so I opted to remove the drawers and extend the cabinet doors. I had a lot of fun building this one.

JaneAndrews

Tue, 05/14/2013 - 22:24

This looks amazing! I need one for my frozen yogurt store. I want to transform it in a coffee shop too and i have a small hallway and i want to put some of the plates and spoons and cups there. I could also work as a mini-bar for the children too. I will show this to my husband and maybe he'll start the project soon.

mipsda

Tue, 05/21/2013 - 09:57

This is a great project, and you pulled it off nicely! I'm not a very crafty person, but I did take the time to paint bag tags with my 5 year old daughter and we had a great time!

mipsda

Wed, 05/29/2013 - 03:36

I used planked wood to build a play kitchen for my 6 year old daughter, and I noticed it's a reliable material, used in Phoenix doors and in many other wooden accessories you can find at Home Depot. Anyway I love what you did with the restauration of that old cabinet, and I would like to try it myself as soon as I get all the necessary tools.

JaneAndrews

Wed, 06/12/2013 - 06:00

I really like this projects, i also showed the air filter cabinets to my husband and he told me that he will do it next week. You are so inspiring and i can't wait to finish my house. It will look amazing!