Reclaimed Wood Headboard, Queen Size

Submitted by Ana White on Mon, 02/05/2018 - 11:20
| Print this plan

Easy DIY planked wood headboard - no special tools required!  Free plans by


These beautiful photos are from the amazing Cynthia and Nicole. Simplicity and the beauty of soild wood come together in this headboard to transform a room. This project can be completed in just a few hours. Available in all standard bed sizes.

Easy to build, all you need is a saw and nails - you can even use a hammer and nails!  

Most builders are spending about $50 making this beauty.  Be sure to check out brag posts.  Thanks to our site users for sharing their photos.

Free plans follow!

57 1/4" x 65 1/2" - suitable for most queen sized mattresses


Shopping List

2 – 1×2 – 8′ Length

7 – 1×3 – 8′ Length

4 - 1×4 – 10′ Length

1 – 1×4 – 6′ Length

1 – 1×6 – 16′ Length

1 – 2×4 – 8′ or Stud Length

Common Materials
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
Cut List

6 - 1×3 @ 55″ (Fronts and backs of Legs)

2 – 1×2 @ 55″ (Inside of Legs)

5 – 1×4 @ 60″ (Panel Pieces)

3 – 1×6 @ 60″ (Panel Pieces)

4 – 1×4 @ 58″ (Panel Trim, Front and Back)

1 – 1×3 @ 64 1/2″ (Top Trim)

1 – 2×4 @ 65 1/2″ (Top of Headboard)

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Circular Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Work on a clean level surface. Use necessary safety precautions. Measure and cut your boards to fit your piece – measurements given are for a perfect build, and you may find your headboard off a tiny bit. So on the trim and top pieces, measure to fit, using the given cut list as a approximate measurement. Use glue and check for square after each step.


Step 1

Legs. Begin building the legs by fastening the 1×2 middle piece to the 1×3 front leg piece, as shown above. To hide your nail holes, fasten for the 1×2 board into the back side of the 1×3 board. Keep outside edges flush.

Step 2

Panel Pieces. Starting on the top, fasten the panel pieces as shown above. The red pieces are 1×4 boards, the blue are 1×6 boards. Use 1 1/4″ nails and glue. Check for square. Hide your nail holes as you did in step 1.

Step 3

Back of Legs. Use 2″ nails and glue to fasten the back of the legs in place. Fasten to the panel pieces and the middle leg piece. Keep outside edges flush.

Step 4

Trim Pieces. Start by fastening the front trim pieces by using 1 1/4″ nails and nailing through the back into the back edge of the front trim. This will hide your nail holes. Then fasten the back trim in place using 2″ nails and glue.

Step 5

Step 6

Top Trim. As shown above, measure and cut your top trim piece. The distance will be the overall width of the headboard at this step. Keeping the top trim flush with the outer leg and the front of the headboard, use 2″ nails and glue to fasten in place.

Step 7

Top of Headboard. Cut the top of the headboard piece 1″ longer than the trim piece from step 6. Mark 1/2″ in from all sides. Center on top of the headboard and fasten in place with glue and 2″ nails.

Step 8

Finishing. Fill any visible nail holes with wood filler and sand and finish as desired. A bed frame can be attached by drilling holes in the fronts of the legs, and using bolts and nuts inserted in the slots open in the insides of the legs.


Matt (not verified)

Sun, 11/07/2010 - 04:00

Just an FYI to everyone here - these measurements are off... which is kind of a big deal when you're using reclaimed wood and you can't just get more.

Anyway, it's got the two top pieces measured at 64.5 inches and 65.5 inches. However, the panel pieces are 60" plus 2" on either side, plus an additional 3/4" if not an inch with the leg "caps". That brings the total width to 65.5" if not 66"... longer than the two top pieces are.

I don't know how to contact the author - but she really needs to know. I'm going to have to do some ripping now (since my leg pieces on the inside are a different type of wood) in order to cover it. Only had one 2x4 in the same wood... so I'm going to have to make it work somehow. Anyway, good luck! Other than that, it looks really good.

Matt (not verified)

Sun, 11/07/2010 - 04:01

The same exact way... just make everything shorter (top to bottom). The widths would all apply as well (although you should look at my other comment because the measurements on this are slightly off.)

JulieP (not verified)

Thu, 11/18/2010 - 08:47

I would love for you to do plans for the end table and dresser that match this headboard.

Jason (not verified)

Tue, 11/30/2010 - 04:54

Seems that you built it wrong. The horizontal panels pieces are 60" (correct) but the legs are built using a 1x2 sandwiched between 1x3s. The horizontal pieces butt up to the 1x2s on the ends for a total width of approx 63" (60" + 1 1/2" for each 1x2). Then you add the additional 1x3s to the outside for an additional 1 1/2" (3/4" thick each). The brings your total width of the headboard panel to 64 1/2". That is exactly what Ana says in her instructions. Maybe the lumber you were using was actual size and not 'nominal'??

John (not verified)

Thu, 12/23/2010 - 20:29

I wish I had known of this site before I built my own version of this headboard for our King bed. I made mine to just hang on the wall behind our bed, with no legs or attachments to the bed frame itself. I measured the bed and took it from there. I bought wood from a pallet recycler, and so the wood was rough with saw marks, and it was authentically beat up. When it wasn't I hit it with a belt sander, hammer and anything else I had. I sanded it just enough to keep from getting splinters, stained/polyurethane in one step and hung it on the wall. It is identical to the one in the catalog with the trim on top. My wife loves it and I didn't spend $800.

gadanny1 (not verified)

Mon, 01/03/2011 - 11:07

Can I use screws in this project? I do not have nor can I afford a nail gun :( Please let me know.

Free Plans Made Possible By Our Sponsors