A sturdy small round table with an X base.
Shame on me, I still haven't filled my frames. Or painted my trim. Or even mopped my floors.
But I DID build a new dining room set. Correction. I built a dining table with the legs on backwards, could not figure out why the it was off square by SIX INCHES, found myself literally scratching my head, went inside and watched tv for a few minutes, dragged myself back outside to finish it, and realized that I had screwed the legs on backwards. So I finished building the base, and the Ram built the tabletop. I upholstered the chairs and the Ram sanded and finished the table and the chair bases. He does better work than me. I'll admit it. This dining table is stunning. And the top is so smooth!
I'm not so good with photoshop, but you can get the idea here. We love our table! The legs all angle out just slightly, increasing the sturdiness of the table (won't rock) but the X base keeps the legs from spreading apart. And I put the legs at a forty five to the aprons, so you DO NOT need a double compound miter saw to cut those legs. In fact, your third grader's compass and a jigsaw would work just fine. Oh, those are all pine furring strips! This table cost us about $20!
Wondering why I only built two chairs? You've been inspiring me . . .
My dining area is FAR from done, so stay posted, lots more projects to come! Today, we'll build my table.
36″ Tabletop or 3/4″ MDF or 3/4″ Plywood cut into a 36″ circle
3 – 2x2s
1 – 1×4
3″ Screws or 2″ pocket hole screws
2 – 2×2 @ 13 7/8″ (Top X, one end cut at 5 degrees off square, measurement to long point)
1 – 2×2 @ 29 3/16″ (Top X, both ends cut at 5 degrees off square, measurement long point to long point)
4 – 2×2 @ 29 1/8″ (Legs)
2 – 2×2 @ 15 3/4″ (Bottom X, one end cut at 5 degrees off square, measurement to long point)
1 – 2×2 @33″ (Top X, both ends cut at 5 degrees off square, measurement long point to long point)
4 – 1×4 @ 20 1/2″ (Both ends cut at 45 degrees perpendicular to each other)
Build the Top X
Cut all of the boards as directed in the cut list. Lay out so the bevel cuts all taper downward. Mark center (13 7/8″ from outsides of longer board) and screw the shorter boards to the longer boards. I used pocket hole screws, but if you do not have a Kreg Jig™, simply screw at an angle to join the second board to the longest board.
Now this was the toughest part for me, but doesn’t have to be for you. Start by lining up the inside corners and either gluing and nailing (nailer would be super handy here) the aprons to the legs and top X or predrilling holes and screwing the aprons to the top X base. Now notice how the apron does not follow the line of the leg? Rather, it remains perpendicular to the ground. Note that and you’ll be good.