Simple vegetable bins that can store all your child's needs. A lip on the front keeps items in the bins.
One of the very first plan requests I had as the author of Knock-Off Wood was for simple toy bins, like these from Pottery Barn Kids. And while simple in appearance and in nature, I could not figure out how to design a Knock-Off Wood plan that met my criteria for posting a plan. And I just could not subject you to cutting out little pentagon shaped pieces from plywood (four of them per toy bin) and then finishing edges with edge banding. Time and tediousness removed, cutting pieces from plywood was wasteful. By cutting out the pentagon shapes, a great amount of wood would become unusable scraps. And I just couldn't do that to you.
But how to add that front lip to the piece, without wasting material? I thought about this all winter. Of course, if you had a fancy tool, it would be super simple. But I don't expect you to have fancy tools.
And when I got my Kreg Jig (special thanks to one of our readers for taking her time to write The Kreg Tool Company about Knock-Off Wood), I knew that with the Kreg Jig, I could easily add the lip to the toy bin.
But one problem. At $99, the Kreg Jig that I received was a little expensive. And although I highly recommend buying the Kreg Jig if you are doing lots of woodworking, for those of us just needing the Kreg Jig here and there, the Kreg Jig JR was much more economical.
For just over $44, which isn't much if you've bought (and broke) countersink bits trying to drill at an angle), just by building this one project once, you would make back your investment. The first thing I noticed was how nicely the entire jig fit into the included case. Because when you've got kid's helping and husbands borrowing your tools, it's nice to keep all the parts together.
It works with a standard clamp and you simply clamp the jig to your wood and drill a pocket hole. The bit that is included is the same as the full size Kreg Jig and it's sharp - I even caught my husband using it when he was siding our house!
As I've said before, the Kreg Jig solves a couple of problems your standard power tools don't
Think building tabletops or just getting your boards to be a little wider, the Kreg Jig can join boards up to 1x6 widths edge to edge. Just make sure you alternate the grain of the wood as you join your boards to keep the panel from warping to one side.
Been there, building cubbies and suddenly realize you can't screw the divider down on one edge? With the Kreg Jig or Kreg Jig JR, you can simply drill a pocket hole and fasten the divider in place.
And some other common problems that I would use the Kreg Jig for:
- Attaching Tabletops from Underneath
- Building Picture Frames (joining the corners)
- Build Cabinet Doors with Rails and Stiles (joining the corners)
I'm not ready to give up my nailer, but I am ready to add a Kreg Jig to my projects. I see the Kreg Jig as not a replacement for screws and nails, but a compliment, an addition to your tool arsenal. And because I see us using the Kreg Jig as a compliment, I believe that the Kreg Jig JR will fit your needs perfectly. If however you see yourself creating lots of pocket holes, I would highly recommend spending the extra fifty bucks for the Kreg Jig.
This video show the full size Kreg Jig, but the Kreg Jig JR uses the same technology, it just takes a little more time to set up the jig and drill your pocket holes. You can get the same results with the Kreg Jig JR, but it's going to take more time. The full size Kreg Jig will let you drill pocket hole after pocket hole, I was able to drill pocket holes as fast as two per minute. But with the Kreg Jig JR, it takes me closer to 2 minutes to clamp the jig, drill, and unclamp the Kreg Jig JR per pocket hole.
I built it before breakfast, made a noon hair appointment (sorry about the sawdust in my hair)
and in between painting the front of our house, I put two coats of High Gloss Red Valspar paint on.
5 – 1×4, 8′ length
1 1/4″ Self Tapping Pocket Hole Screws
1 1/4″ nails
6 – 1×4 @ 31 1/2″ (Top and Bottom Panel Boards)
6 – 1×4 @ 12″ (Side Panel Boards)
6 – 1×4 @ 10 1/2″ (Divider Panel Boards)
2 – 1×4 @ 12″ (Lip Sides)
1 – 1×4 @ 31 1/2″ (Lip)
Remember you can click on any image for a larger view. Always read comments before begining a project and use the plans from the blog to get the most current plans. Work on a clean level surface and use straight boards. Use glue. Predrill any screw holes. Take a square after each step. Be safe, have fun.
Step 1: Build the Box
To get the planked look, first join the 1×4 boards to create the panels shown above. You will have two sides, two dividers, and a top and bottom panel. As you join your boards, pay attention to the grain of the board (look at the end of the board) and join the boards together with your Kreg Jig™ is such a manner that the grains are alternating spiraling up and spiraling down. This will keep your panels from warping to one side or the other. You can skip this step by simply building the box out of 1×12 boards instead of 1×4 boards as done here.
And while you can definitely use the Kreg Jig™ to build the box, it’s not necessary because the bottom sits on the ground and the top sits on the sides – there is minimal weight or strain on the nailed joints. So I nailed the box together using glue and 2″ nails, leaving 10″ between the sides and the dividers.
One other note, I did notice that this lip was not as pronounced as you may want it to be for holding items like legos or even lincoln logs (smaller items). It is perfect for larger items, like balls, large blocks, dolls, and even stuffed animals. You can easily adjust for a steeper lip by using a 1×6 instead of a 1×4 for the lip and tracing the 1×6 edge on to the lip sides and cutting your lip sides to fit the 1×6.
If you are stacking, I recommend attaching the bins to each other (drilling pocket holes in the underside of the bottom bin and screwing into the bottom of the top bin would be very effective) and also attaching to the wall.
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