Shelf partitions. Attach shelf partitions as shown in diagram, using either pocket holes set for 3/4" stock and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws or 2" screws countersunk. Use glue.

It is very important that you take extra measures to square up project - your drawers and doors won't fit right if you don't.

Next add the top and bottom to the project. Pocket holes are shown. It may be difficult to attach the center drawer divider with pocket holes due to drill clearance - so fasten from the bottom of the cabinet. Adjust for square.

The sides are 1x12s. This plan is designed for 1x12s that measure 11 1/4" in width. Measure the width of your 1x12s and rip down if necessary with tablesaw.

Attach the 1x12s as shown above, with a 1/2" gap on the outsides as shown in diagram. You can click on any diagram for expanded views.

Now add a shelf in each of the side cabinets as shown above. You can either make the shelves fixed by screwing in place, or drill holes for shelf pins for adjustable shelves.

For the footer, first mark and cutout the footer with a jigsaw as shown above. Sand until jigsaw edges are smooth and match. For the long straight part of the cut, I personally would use a circular saw.

Note that the front footer is slightly different, although the same pattern.

Attach side footers to the 2x2s with glue and screws.

Mark front and back footers and cut out as you did the side footers. Attach to both side footers and the 2x2 cleats.

Now the fun part. Attach to the cabinet base as shown in diagram, using 2" wood screws and glue.

Door Storage. You will need to build two of these, and they will need to be very square. Check the width of your 1x8s, ensuring the width is 7 1/4" wide.

Build as shown above.

Doors. There are many ways to build doors, ranging from super complicated to uberly easy. Easy is shown above. Use 1/2" plywood for the panel, framed in 1x3s. Remember that you will need to set your Kreg Jig for 1/2" stock when fastening the panel to the frame. Then you will need to set the Kreg Jig for 3/4" stock when attaching the frame boards together.

For a tutorial on something very similar - except you can skip the raised panel part - go here.

Now attach door to door storage. Outside edges should be flush. You can use either pocket holes from inside or finsih nails from outside.

The tricky part about putting the doors on is getting them to swing easily. The plan gives 1/8" clearance on top/bottom of the door.

Attach hinges as shown in diagram. Adjust hinges so door closes smoothly.

Drawers. Build drawers as shown above. Attach plywood to bottom with 1 1/4" finish nails and glue. Take extra precautions to ensure drawers are very square.

When used properly, drawer slides really aren't that difficult to install. The main thing is to remember that the door face needs 3/4", so the slides/drawer needs to be inset 3/4" at this step. I've got a tutorial on how to install drawer slides here.

Build the door faces to fit, as you did the cabinet doors. The measurements shown above are for an 1/8" gap on all sides of the drawer face.

My trick for perfect looking drawer faces? With the drawer box full inserted, place the drawer face over the drawer box, centering the face on the opening. Next comes just a few 1/4" finish nails through the drawer face frame into the drawer box. Then open the drawer, and screw the face on from the backside.

Be considerate of the location of pulls/handles when nailing/screwing.