Benchright Industrial Farmhouse Table

Submitted by Ana White on Sat, 07/20/2019 - 11:24
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Free step by step woodworking plans to make an industrial style Farmhouse Table. Features metal stretcher and lots of details to make your table interesting and unique. 

We also have matching bench plans available here.

modern farmhouse table pottery barn benchwright knock off

Reader submitted photo by SGILLY

We've had quite a few requests for plans inspired by Reclaimed Wood Benchwright Farmhouse Table from Pottery Barn - I get it, not everyone has thousands to spend on a dining table.  But if you are willing to put in the work (and it's fun work!) you can build a solid wood dining table for a fraction of the cost to buy.
The base is sized for a five foot long iron pipe, available at most home improvement stores in the plumbing aisles.  There's tons of iron fitting that you could use to "dress" the table up with.

Similar Plan Option

We also have this table in a very similar look, but built using 4x4 legs. 
4x4 leg benchwright table
Please take a look at that plan as well here.
dimensions diagram for modern farmhouse table
Dimensions are shown above.


Shopping List

6 - 1x6 @ 6 feet long

2 - 1x4 @ 8 feet long

2 - 2x4 @ 8 feet or stud length

2 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long

3 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long

3 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long

1 - Black Iron Pipe 60" long, both ends threaded Bolts/Caps and Washers for decorative touches

4 - 6" Black Bolts with washer and Nuts (1/4" would work fine)

Common Materials
2 inch screws
3 inch screws
2 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
wood conditioner
paint brush
Cut List


  • 4 - 1x4 @ 29 3/8" (Bevel both ends at 10 degrees off square, short point to long point)
  • 4 - 1x2 @ 21 5/8" (Both ends cut at angle 10 degrees off square, short point to long point)
  • 4 - 2x4 @ 29 3/8" (Bevel both ends at 10 degrees off square, short point to long point)
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 28 1/2" (End Aprons)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 31" (Stretcher)
  • 8 - 1x2 @ 4 1/4" (One end cut at 10 degree angle, longest point measurement)
  • 4 - 1x2 @ 16 1/8 (cut to fit - spacer)


  • 2 - 2x6 @ 45 1/4" (Side Aprons - short point to short point measurement, both ends cut at 10 degrees off square)
  • 3 - 2x2 @ 20" (Supports)
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 67" (Sides)
  • 2 - 2x2 @ 30" (Ends)
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 33"
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 33"
  • 6 - 1x6 @ 67 1/8" (cut to fit)
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Miter Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

We'll start by making the legs. The most important part of the legs is getting your cuts right. Some of the cuts are bevels and some are angles, so pay attention in the diagrams. All angles will be ten degrees off square. Remember, you will need to assemble two sets of legs, and the legs are mirrors of each other. You can use finish nails and glue. Start by attaching the 1x4 to the top 1x2 as shown above.

Step 2

Now attach the 2x4 to the legs as shown above. Use glue and 2" finish nails - don't worry, we'll be further suporting this leg shortly.

Step 3

Now sandwich in the apron and stretcher as shown above. Stretcher will overhang 1/2" on each outside end.

Step 4

And now simply fill in the blanks.

Step 5

Step 6

And attach the supports - these will give you something to nail your top boards on too.

Step 7

I'd love to see these bolted on with a iron bolt for a little extra touch. Attach with 7 1/2" overhangs on ends.

Step 8

Now the end supports. Attach with screws and glue.

Step 9

Bolt the breadboard end on as shown above. Use 6" bolts with washers as done here.

Step 10

Nail down the 1x4 to the ends as shown here.

Step 11

And finally top with the 1x6s. Note, you can use other boards for the top, for example reclaimed wood boards for a more rustic look.

Step 12

Drill holes in the stretchers and add iron pipe. Use fittings to secure pipe in place.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.


Ashley Ez (not verified)

Mon, 07/25/2011 - 14:44

I can't even imagine already thinking about winter! We still have sunny, HOT days ahead of us AT LEAST through November. And usually Christmas day is spent in shorts here on the gulf coast. Gorgeous plans!


Tue, 07/26/2011 - 13:46

I like the look of the rectangular iron hardware at the base, but no idea where to purchase this or if I'll have to 'fake it' with paint and wood. Any thoughts. I've worked through how to finish out the pipe with fittings, but still stumped on this.

Also thinking of making it expandable at the breadboards rather than middle(easier and the base can be fixed) has some extensions that do this.

Guest (not verified)

Thu, 08/04/2011 - 05:11

Just finished the legs...I think the "4 - 1x2 @ 21 5/8" (Both ends cut at angle 10 degrees off square, short point to long point)" direction should read "one end cut at 10 degree angle, other end square" it created a 10 degree gap where the 2x4 stretcher meets and Im trying to figure out the best way to fill I wrong? Either way I have this gap to deal with :\

Allie (not verified)

Fri, 08/12/2011 - 14:45

There is a mistake in the cutting directions. I got lucky and only had enough scrap to get one and a half legs done before I had to run out and get more, so only one of my legs are goofed. After I stained it, your don't even notice.

C (not verified)

Wed, 08/01/2012 - 16:14

Quite right. I had to trim the 1x2 to make the bottom edge square, and lengthen the 4 1/4" 1x2. Luckily I hadn't cut the 4 1/4 piece yet before I realized something didn't seem right.


Thu, 10/13/2011 - 07:26

Has anyone made it 38" deep like the PB table dimensions? If I tweak it, will it make the table less sturdy? I'm just thinking 33 1/2" might be too narrow. Please let me know if you've done this already!! Thanks!

Guest (not verified)

Mon, 12/26/2011 - 16:41

Has anyone tried adapting this for a large writing desk?

Guest (not verified)

Wed, 01/18/2012 - 16:32

It would be easy enough to modify the depth/width, just add an extra 1x6 to the top and make all width measurements 5 1/2 inches wider and that should line up just fine. Your legs would be wider apart which could/should make the table more stable.

Guest (not verified)

Thu, 01/19/2012 - 18:01

there seems to be an additional problem with the legs.
the cut list has 2 - 2x6 @ 38 1/2 for end aprons the diagram shows the end aprons at 29"
what is the length that should be used?


Guest (not verified)

Thu, 01/19/2012 - 18:07

that should read 2 - 2x6 @ 28 1/2 not 38.

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