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Farmhouse Storage Bed with Drawers (Queen)

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Farmhouse Bed plans for a small space! This bed packs lots of storage in a more compact profile. Detailed step by step plans to help you build your own DIY Farmhouse Bed in queen size.

Also check out our Full and Twin Farmhouse Storage Bed plans.

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Farmhouse Beds
Storage Bed Collection
farmhouse storage bed dimensions queen

Reader submitted photo by BEEKEEPER has some modifications from plans

 

So excited to add this plan to the Farmhouse Bed Collection! Thank you for requesting!

 
It's an updated approach to our most popular plan.

 
 
I've made a few changes to this bed.  The panels are plywood (although you can still do beadboard paneling or planks for a more country look) and the overall width is 7" narrower than the tradditional Farmhouse Beds.  The reason for this is the mattress on this bed extends all the way to the outsides of the legs, instead of to the insides.  
 
So if you have a compact space, this bed is a great alternative to the Farmhouse Bed.  It's smaller and includes six huge HUGE drawers for storage.
 
Please do not attempt this bed as a beginner project with the drawers.  For drawers to work, you must build perfectly square, and all cuts must be square and straight.
 

Pin For Later! 

Farmhouse Storage Bed with Drawers

Dimensions
dimensions diagram of farmhouse bed with storage drawers in queen size
Dimensions are shown above for queen size.

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 3 - Sheets 3/4" Plywood or other sheet goods
  • 1 1/2 - Sheets 1/4" Plywood or other sheet goods
  • 2 - 4x4 post, 7 feet long
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 10 feet long
  • 3 - 2x4 @ 10 feet long (cut longest first!)
  • 5 - 1x10 @ 8 feet long (OR 1 sheet of 3/4" plywood cut into 5 strips 9 1/4" wide)
  • 6 - Euro Style Drawer Slides (the cheapo white ones) 14" long, medium to heavy duty rating
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 6 feet long
  • 3 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 9 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
  • 5 - 1/4" hobby stock, 2 1/2" wide @ 8 feet long (OR 1/4" plywood cut into strips 2 1/2" wide)
  • 4" Screws (if you are not using a pocket hole jig and will be attaching 4x4 legs to panels with screws)
  • 6 Knobs or handles

NOTE: Drawers are optional - can be added later or just used as storage shelves.  The shopping list DOES include materials for the drawers, so if not building drawers, please adjust shopping list accordingly

Common Materials
2 inch screws
3 inch screws
3/4 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
1-1/4" Pocket Hole Screws
2-1/2" Pocket Hole Screws
Elmer's Wood Glue
Elmer's Wood Filler
120 grit sandpaper
primer
paint
paint brush
Cut List

HEADBOARD

  • 1 - 3/4" Plywood @ 26" x 53" (Can substitute planked wood for panel to create a more authentic "farmhouse" look)
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 53"
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 54"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 53"
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 60"
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 62"

 

FOOTBOARD

  • 1 - 3/4" Plywood @ 15" x 53" (Can substitute planked wood for panel to create a more authentic "farmhouse" look)
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 53"
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 19"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 53"
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 60"
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 62"

 

STORAGE BOXES

  • 4 - 3/4" Plywood @ 15 1/2" x 80 1/4"
  • 8 - 3/4" Plywood @ 15 1/2" x 13 1/2"
  • 2 - 1/4" Plywood @ 80-1/4" x 15"

 

SUPPORT & CENTER

  • 2 - 2x2 @ 80 1/4"
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 16 3/4"
  • 18 - 1x3 @ 28 1/2" (Slats to mattress specs)

 

OPTIONAL DRAWER BOXES

  • 12 - 1x10* @ 23 1/4"
  • 12 - 1x10* @ 14"
  • 6 - 1/4" Plywood @ 24 3/4" x 14"

*Plywood cut into 9 1/4" strips can be substituted for 1x10s, use at least 1/2" thick plywood; for direct conversion to cut list use 3/4" thick plywood

 

OPTIONAL DRAWER FACES

  • 6 - 3/4" Plywood @ 25 1/2" x 13 1/4"
  • 12 - 1/4" hobby stock, 2 1/2" wide @ 8 1/4"
  • 12 - 1/4" hobby stock, 2 1/2" wide @ 25 1/2"
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Hammer
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Circular Saw
Table Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Level
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Have your hardware store rip the first piece into three equal sized strips, 15 1/2" wide. Then all you have to do is make the cross cuts at home. These cuts are from the 3/4" thick plywood.

NOTE: Measurement should be 15-1/2" x 13-1/2" NOT 13-1/4" - please check with cut list

Step 2

From another sheet of 3/4" plywood, have your hardware store rip into two 15 1/2" strips and one 13 1/4" strip. From these strips cut the following pieces.

NOTE: Measurement should be 15-1/2" x 13-1/2" NOT 13-1/4" - please check with cut list

Step 3

From the final 3/4" piece of plywood, cut it cross wise as noted in the diagram, and then cut your headboard and footboard panel from the larger half. From the remaining pieces, cut your remaining drawer faces as shown above.

Step 4

From the 1/4" plywood, cut the following pieces. You will need to either purchase an additional 1/2 sheet of plywood for the two remaining drawer bottoms, or you could use leftover 3/4" stock for the remaining two drawer bottoms.

Step 5

The largest cuts on this diagram should be 80-1/4" long, NOT 79-1/2". 

Step 6

This is a relatively easy task if you have a Kreg Jig - simply drill 3/4" pocket holes along sides of panel and attach to legs. Make sure you are leaving 1 1/2" to the back of the panel as shown above (Very important with footboard).

If you are using traditional screws, mark the legs where they meet up with the panel at the top and bottom (where the panel is covered in trim. Use a drill bit the size of the screw head to drill a hole 2" deep into the legs. In this hole, use a drill bit the size of the screw head to drill a second hole all the way through the 4x4s. Attach to panel with 4" screws and glue.

Step 7

Attach the bottom supports in the same manner as the panel, carefully locating as shown in diagram.

Step 8

Hooray, an easy step! Attach as shown above.

Step 9

Finally the crown. I'd screw on myself to minimize any gaps.

Step 10

The footboard is built just like the headboard - make sure you leave 1 1/2" to the back of the panel - see next step ...

Step 11

This is so your 2x4 spacers fit just right in the backs. Attach with screws and glue.

Step 12

You can build these with either a pocket hole jig or traditional screws. Build square if you are using drawers or your drawers will not slide right.

Step 13

Attach back to the boxes with finish nails and glue. Make sure you nail into all center dividers too. The back will help keep things straight and minimize sagging.

Step 14

Now this is where things get fun! Take a minute and cut some leftover 4x4s or 2x4s 4" long and use them as blocking to hold the boxes up as you screw to the headboard and footboard. Screw from the inside of the boxes into the legs and supports.

Step 15

Attach the cleats to the back side of the boxes, leaving 3/4" gap to the top.

Step 16

Especially if you move up to a king, you will need to add some support to the center. Some 2x2s "legs" as shown above will never be seen, but add a tremendous amount of support to the bed.

Step 17

Finally, lay the slats. Per your mattress recommendation, you may need more (or can get away with less) slats.

Step 18

Build six drawers as shown above. Your drawers must be perfectly square to slide properly into the bed. Remember, your drawer should be exactly 1" less than the overall width of the opening, and 1" less deep as well.

Step 19

Install drawers into bed as shown in diagram, using the white euro style drawer slides that cup the bottom corners of the drawers. Make sure drawer sits inset 1" from outside of box to allow for drawer face. Adjust drawer slides until you are satisfied with how the drawer opens/closes.

Step 20

Build the drawer faces by attaching 1/4" hobby stock (or other moulding) to the faces with 3/4" finish nails and glue. Place drawer face on installed drawers, with an 1/8" gap on all sides of drawer face. Attach with 1 1/4" finish nails and wood glue.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type
Beds and Bed Frames
Queen Beds and Bed Frames
Room
Bedroom
Storage Solutions
Style
Farmhouse Furniture

Comments

jackielw (not verified)

Fri, 08/03/2012 - 19:05

How much did this cost (using plywood) or using more expensive wood?

How long did this take everyone?

Im thinking of putting my bf on this task as a similar bed i want online is $1600 and takes 12 weeks ( made by amish)

Kim Lavoie (not verified)

Fri, 08/17/2012 - 19:00

I am updating my son's room and will be adding another son in there. Ana, can you please make a set of these plans for twin size? Pretty please! :)

Marie D. (not verified)

Sat, 09/01/2012 - 10:54

Awesome bed! Among others would love to have twin size instructions needed for 2 grandson with small bedrooms - thanks a million! Marie D.

Bobbi Jo (not verified)

Mon, 09/03/2012 - 08:47

I am anxious to make this bed with a few alterations. I'll be making it king size. Here's what I'm thinking. First off, I want to double the drawers by making the cubbie spaces 24" high and running 2 drawer glides. I would also like to make the drawers 24" deep. I plan to use 3/4 plywood on the back of the cubbie as well just to add strength, I will also build the 2' x 4' support frame for under the boxes. Any suggestions on how this make work or potential pitfalls would be greatly appreciated.

Lisa G. (not verified)

Wed, 09/12/2012 - 09:52

I would also like to put together a full-sized version of this bed. I'm moving into my own apartment in about a month and have been looking to build my own frame. This storage frame is just the kind of space saver I need!

I'm assuming that the dimensions for these plans are for your average 60x80 Queen mattresses, seeing as the dimensions for the base frame itself are 60x80. Average Full mattresses (in North America) are 54x75, yes? How involved do you think it would be to just do a little math and downgrade all of the dimensions in proportion to each other?

Thaylok (not verified)

Wed, 09/26/2012 - 09:37

Consider this:

If the extra length does not bother you, then the only real change is in the support boards which connect the two drawer sections. You can narrow those as you see fit.
Additionally, I do believe the Full Size plans are also in this site compliments of the great Ana-white.com creator/maintainer.

Is it too involved? I don't believe so, but then I'm one to modify things continually. I am using these base dimensions and modifying "horrifically" for deeper, longer drawers (to hold comforters). Also incorporating the fold-out drawer (shoe dresser) for storage up where the nightstands sit beside my bed. Lastly, No feet. My bed will be flat on the floor to control dust and dogs from getting under there.

If you don't have it, invest in the Kreg Pocket Hole Jig as well as the Kreg circular saw attachment for ripping wood, Well worth he cost.

zannej

Tue, 08/27/2013 - 03:36

What sort of hinges do you use for those? Just regular hinges? I'd love to see the plans for that. Also, thanks for the recommendation of the pocket hole jig and circular saw attachment.

jasongroce

Tue, 12/08/2015 - 11:40

So I wanted to create this in a Full Size so it fit a mattress we already owned. I determined that the best way was to shrink the width by 6 inches, the height of the headboard by 2 inches, and the length by 3 inches.

This will leave two inches in length longer than a full sized mattress but simplifies the math with the drawers.

Here’s the cut list:

Headboard:

1 – 3/4” Plywood @ 26” x 47

2 – 1x4 @ 47”

2 – 4x4 @ 52”

2 – 2x4 @ 47”

1 – 2x4 @ 54”

1 – 2x6 @56”

:- Lay the 4x4 posts flat and temporarily lay the 2x4’s between the 4x4 where the plywood needs to go. This will allow you to pocket screw the plywood into the 4x4 posts at the correct height on the 4x4. Pocket screw the plywood where you are going to add your 1x4 to save on a pocket plug and hide the screws. Add your 1x4 with glue and 1 ¼ nails. Finish the headboard by connecting the 2x4’s used in the spacing of the plywood to the bottom of the 4x4 where the plan calls for them.

Footboard:

1 – 3/4” Plywood @ 15” x 49”

2 – 1x4 @ 47”

2 – 4x4 @ 19”

2 – 2x4 @ 47”

1 – 2x4 @ 54”

1 – 2x6 @ 56”

:- Same as the headboard. Lay down your 4x4’s. Place your 2x4’s behind there you are going to add your plywood. Pocket hole your plywood to the 4x4’s. Add the trim with nails and glue. Flip it over and attach the 2x4’s with pocket hole screws where the plan calls for them.

Storage Boxes:

4 – ¾” Plywood @ 15 ½” x 77 ¼”  (Outside top and bottom)

8 – ¾” Plywood @ 15 ½ x 13 ½”  (Sides and center support)

2 – ¼” Plywood @ 77” x 15” (Backing of box)

Support and Center:

2 – 2x2 @ 77 ¼”

2 – 2x2 @16 ¾”

18 – 1x3 @ 22 ½”

Drawer Boxes:

12 – 1x10 @ 22 ¼” (Front and back of drawer box)

12 – 1x10 @ 14” (Sides of drawer box)

6 – ¼” Plywood @ 23 ¾” x 14” (Bottom of drawers)

* ¾” Plywood sheet cut into 9 ½” strips will be the same size as the 1x10’s. It was cheaper for me using plywood.

Drawer Faces

6 – ¾” Plywood @ 24 ½” x 13 ¼”

12 – ¼” hobby stock, 2 ½” wide @ 8 ¼”

12 – ¼” Hobby Stock, 2 ½” wide @ 24 ½”

 

This should be a conversion from this Queen down to a Full.

Michael Robinson (not verified)

Sat, 10/06/2012 - 15:57

I would like to build this and stain it. What kind of wood would be best and won't break the bank?

James H (not verified)

Tue, 10/09/2012 - 13:20

Here in Northern CA, I just estimated the cost of this project at $375. That's lumber from a local building supply. If I get everything at Home Depot the estimate was over $400. This is just materials and no tools. I think our lumber prices are too high.

Jesi (not verified)

Fri, 10/12/2012 - 07:19

Ana, I'm in LOVE with this bed! My Dad is DIYing an apartment for my son and me on my parent's property. I'm strapped for cash and have NO furniture, which I'm actually excited about because I can BUILD all my furniture, and design exactly what I want for my tiny space! I don't want much more furniture in my bedroom than my bed, but I need even MORE storage. When I was in Macy's one time, I happened to pass their bedding department and saw one of their display headboards which I really loved. It was deep, and there were long handles on the sides which almost looked like bars hand towels. It reminded me or a drawer handle, and I thought, "why couldn't I build a deep headboard with drawers on the sides? Then I could use the top of my headboard like a shelf, too!" I wonder if you could draw up plans like that... That would be the ULTIMATE in a storage bed! :)

I just LOVE your site, by the way. It's empowering, knowing that I can build nice furniture I can be proud of. Thank you, and keep up the amazing work!

Meredithbr (not verified)

Tue, 01/08/2013 - 15:55

If I already have a ton of 1/2" plywood, can I use that? Will anything turn out significantly different? I haven't had a half hour to look at this plan thoroughly yet. Thanks.

RG (not verified)

Sun, 01/13/2013 - 00:31

Is there any problem with making the drawers deeper instead of using slats? Making them each half the width of the bed?

Thanks so much - I love this site!!!

Aaron (not verified)

Mon, 01/21/2013 - 15:09

Hi Ana,

I love this bed and I'm trying to adapt it to a King size version, assuming 76" for the width of the mattress. Based on your plans, I'm wondering if there's an extra inch added into the headboard/footboard panels by mistake? The plans have the headboard/footboard panels spec'ed at 53". Including the posts, from their outside to outside, the plans say 60". The headboard crown length says 62", with the 1 inch overhangs on each end.

If the headboard/footboard panels are 53", and the posts are 4x4s, then the headboard width, from outer post to outer post, cannot be 60". It would be 61" (53+4+4). This would make the crown 63".

Please advise Ana. I'm trying to spec out the king size version. The dimensions below are what I have so far. The rest will be easy once I figure out where the extra inch came from. Or if I'm crazy!

Headboard/Footboard panel: 68"
Headboard/Footboard outer post to outer post: 76"
Headboard crown: 78"

Thanks again,

Aaron

ctespinosa

Wed, 01/30/2013 - 07:04

I'm planning to build the farmhouse storage queen, with some modifications to the height and drawer depth. I'm planning on using oak plywood for the boxes, and staining them. How are people finishing the visible edges of the boxes? Do pine 2x4's, 2x6's finish out to look okay, or is it worth the quadruple cost of buying oak?

Timothy Simpson

Mon, 03/04/2013 - 05:49

I've already built the traditional farmhouse bed, for my own home. It's a beautiful bed, which is as solid as the rock of gibraltar. Couldn't be happier with it!

Here's the thing: some good friends of mine, after seeing that bed, have asked me to build one for them. However, they're more interested in the storage version of the farmhouse bed, shown on this page. My concern, as well as theirs, is how strong is this design, compared to the other one? The original farmhouse bed is framed with 2x10 rails, and 2x6 supports spaced 16" on center, all tied together with a 3/4" plywood top. In comparison, this storage version of the farmhouse bed, has no rails at all. I'm concerned with bending/bowing of the plywood cabinet boxes, particularly at the outside edges (as in, when he/she sits down at the edge of the bed, putting their entire body weight directly over an unsupported piece of plywood spanning 26"). The couple I'm building this bed for, is on the large side.

So, my question is, has anybody who's built this bed, experienced any bowing or sagging issues? Does anybody have any ideas for how I could reinforce it, without significantly altering the plans?

One more question: what have other users done, to hide all the plywood end grain in this design? I don't see anything in these plans for applying any edge banding, or hardwood strips, so I'm just wondering how others have worked around this.

Thanks a bunch!

Breatherguy

Thu, 04/18/2013 - 19:37

To cover the plywood end grain, I used screen molding to cover, glue and nails.
To help protect the paint from wear, last coat was clear poly.

Got a deal on baskets that had glides so I did not make drawers.

geophyrd

Thu, 05/23/2013 - 03:39

I built it. I altered the design a couple of ways. I put blocks under the 'boxes' that are the storage units where they abut against the headboard and foot board. That way, I knew they would be easy to take off and put back on again later without having to hold the boxes looking for screwholes. I used 3/4 plywood, primed and painted, glued and screwed.

I also did some substantial carving on the legs, head and footboard and backlit a headboard insert with LED lighting.

All in...VERY strong. If you want to see pictures of the bed and the build, you can click the link below. Its my facebook page. I posted this on Ana's site, but I didn't get much response. Its possible that I somehow didn't make the couple of pics public or something.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150844261192960.416336.6516…

zannej

Tue, 08/27/2013 - 04:27

Wow! That is amazing. Do I even want to know how much that carving machine costs to buy? Does it require a computer or something?

You said Ana made mistakes in her plan. Can you outline what mistakes she made and what you did differently?

Thanks!

leverknight1

Thu, 06/20/2013 - 21:59

I love all the plans for the storage beds on here but we are looking to get a king size to build one for.

BriFrerich518

Thu, 08/08/2013 - 22:07

Is this design plan for a queen sized bed? Does anyone know? If not, could someone please tell me how I figure out how to change dimensions for a queen?

Thank you!

zannej

Tue, 08/27/2013 - 04:42

I have a few questions about this plan:
How would you stop the mattress from sliding? Even though my mattress weighs 90lbs, it tends to slide.

Where can I find the plans for the Full version of this bed?

Are there any plans for double drawers (one on top of the other) instead of just single drawers?

What about the space in the middle of the bed? It looks like it could be used for storage-- what options are there for accessing that storage?
(I love Birdsandsoap's hinged footboard idea).

What modifications could be made if I wanted to use something like SUSPA® 100 LB Gas Spring/Prop/Strut/Shock to have the top lift up to access storage under the mattress?

Are there any better ideas for accessing that space?

Instead of a footboard, what about a footboard dresser like the Lea Industries Dillon footboard dresser?
http://www.ivgstores.com/prodimages-cdls/LA/la-906-241.jpg

If I wanted to have this sit on the floor so nothing could get underneath, but wanted it propped up on something with a toekick on the sides instead, what would I have to change?

Are there diagrams of suggestions for more support in the middle?

Thanks for these plans. It really is giving me a lot of ideas. I admit the storage part and platform are the part that I am looking at the most since I love my existing headboard. I do not currently have a footboard though.

darkjuan

Tue, 08/27/2013 - 05:41

Hello Zannej,

I don't have all answers for your questions, but I can suggest for the 1st question about preventing the mattress for sliding, I can guess that using some wood shims would stop the sliding. Also, unless you have pleennnttyyy space on the side if you want to make the drawers with more depth.

For the other question about using double drawers, you may want to reconsider it, as you may be getting the bed level way to high. I speak from experience, my in-laws have a solid wood king size bed with double drawers and doors opening on the footboard to access the "middle" storage area. My wife have to open the bottom drawers in order to "climb" to the bed.

Just my 2 cents.

zannej

Wed, 08/28/2013 - 12:59

I was thinking of making shallower drawers or of having single drawers but the faces would give the illusion of double drawers. I have a 14" mattress but I used to have a 24" mattress. For awhile (before I was able to remove the old one) I had the new mattress stacked on top of the old on on top of the box spring which is on a metal frame. That was actually a bit too high for me, but I could easily add another 10" of height to my mattress and have it be comfortable. It's actually easier for me to get in and out of that way.
But you do have a good point. I wouldn't want the bed to be too high since I'm only 5'5".
Now, for my brother's bed it can afford to be higher because he's about 6'3".

Doors on the footboard would be another option as well. I wish the hydraulic lift thing was easier to figure out because that way we could access storage near the headboard.

geophyrd

Tue, 08/27/2013 - 05:35

Ok, so six months later...bed is still every bit as strong. I did add on item: I cut a piece of plywood the exact size of the bed and threw it on top of the boxes,under the mattress. It has been described as the most comfortable rock ever...

To the person asking and the carving machine, its around 1,500 which sounds like a lot, but I've made five pieces of furniture with it and its the gift that keeps giving (not really a gift, my wife was gonna kill me when I bought it). But seriously, I have no talent for carving and what I wanted, it was the easiest we to get closest. If you're interested, you can go to CarveWright.com to see about the carving unit.

now into the next project!

zannej

Wed, 08/28/2013 - 13:01

Thanks for the info on the carving machine, geophyrd. It sounds like you've made good use of it.

I did a little hand carving in woodworking class although it was nothing spectacular.

paulaandmatt2010

Sat, 11/02/2013 - 01:04

So it's time for a new bed frame and I've located this idea and LOVE it!! My only question...due to back issues we need to use a box spring, mattress, and memory foam for our bed, can this combination work on a platform style bed. Also, would the dimensions/cuts/etc. need to be adjusted to fit the extra height/weight of those items??

Thanks!

geophyrd

Sat, 11/02/2013 - 10:12

That's a whole lotta mattress going on. Here's some suggestions:

If you insist on mattress, boxspring and foam, your head and footboard will need to be higher to compensate. Doesn't sound like a big deal, but the ones I made would have been nearly all lost to the mattress if I'd put on a boxspring. Not a big deal, just prepare for it!

Build everything on Google Sketchup first. Awesome program, though it does have a bit of a learning curve. But the first time you touch wood, you'll know exactly what you're doing and be confident in your design.

Last, I put footers under the boxes, blocks of wood screwed to both frame and boxes for some extra support. I don't know that they're doing much, but i'm much more confident in my build because I know they're there!

Good luck! Post some pics when you're through!

toddr

Sun, 03/02/2014 - 22:28

I'm going to use this as a base design but I will be reusing waterbed drawer pedestals and the headboard.

Thia

Thu, 04/03/2014 - 18:15

What a great project! I was looking for plans to make myself one, the only thing is that I'm going to move eventually and would need to be able to disassemble it into parts (headboard, footboard, left drawers, right drawers, something like that). Do you have any suggestions how I could manage that?

lisa64

Sun, 04/06/2014 - 17:22

Do you have the plans on how to make the storage boxes for a twin size bed. I would love to have these under my son's bed that I am planning to build for him. It will be his first real bed in his own room.
Thanks

lisa64

Sun, 04/06/2014 - 17:22

Do you have the plans on how to make the storage boxes for a twin size bed. I would love to have these under my son's bed that I am planning to build for him. It will be his first real bed in his own room.
Thanks

balloongal247

Mon, 04/14/2014 - 08:18

If you click the "Plans" button at the top of the page, on the blue bar, you can search for specific plans. I had thought that I'd seen farmhouse twin storage bed on here before, but that may have just been a brag post that modified it, because I don't see it. There's a plan for a non-storage Farmhouse Twin Bed, and several other storage twin beds though. I recommend looking through the options, you may find another one you like, or you may be able to combine plans to try to create your own farmhouse twin storage bed.

sonicblaze

Mon, 09/15/2014 - 13:02

Looking through your pictures, I love the color/how you did it.  A few router questions...can you tell me what you did for the edges of your boards?

Did you use a 45degree router bit on the edges of some of the boards? It looks like the 4x4's for the footboard had that done to them...or the lighting is making it look like that

And a roundover on the crown of the headboard/footboard?

And your 2x4's and such are nice and squared on the edges. Did you have to do that, like rip down from 2x8's?

sonicblaze

Mon, 09/15/2014 - 13:04

Do you have the SketchUp of this available for download somewhere that I missed? I'd like to expand your existing design for a kingsize bed, and It'd be nice to start from your plans so I don't reinvent the wheel.

Thanks!

RedRoof

Fri, 11/07/2014 - 04:46

Hi, Ana! I love this stoage bed! Will you be adding the dimensions and instructions for converting this to a full size bed? :) 

jasongroce

Tue, 12/15/2015 - 12:09

So I wanted to create this in a Full Size so it fit a mattress we already owned. I determined that the best way was to shrink the width by 6 inches, the height of the headboard by 2 inches, and the length by 3 inches.

This will leave two inches in length longer than a full sized mattress but simplifies the math with the drawers.

Here’s the cut list:

Headboard:

1 – 3/4” Plywood @ 26” x 47

2 – 1x4 @ 47”

2 – 4x4 @ 52”

2 – 2x4 @ 47”

1 – 2x4 @ 54”

1 – 2x6 @56”

:- Lay the 4x4 posts flat and temporarily lay the 2x4’s between the 4x4 where the plywood needs to go. This will allow you to pocket screw the plywood into the 4x4 posts at the correct height on the 4x4. Pocket screw the plywood where you are going to add your 1x4 to save on a pocket plug and hide the screws. Add your 1x4 with glue and 1 ¼ nails. Finish the headboard by connecting the 2x4’s used in the spacing of the plywood to the bottom of the 4x4 where the plan calls for them.

Footboard:

1 – 3/4” Plywood @ 15” x 47”

2 – 1x4 @ 47”

2 – 4x4 @ 19”

2 – 2x4 @ 47”

1 – 2x4 @ 54”

1 – 2x6 @ 56”

:- Same as the headboard. Lay down your 4x4’s. Place your 2x4’s behind there you are going to add your plywood. Pocket hole your plywood to the 4x4’s. Add the trim with nails and glue. Flip it over and attach the 2x4’s with pocket hole screws where the plan calls for them.

Storage Boxes:

4 – ¾” Plywood @ 15 ½” x 77 ¼”  (Outside top and bottom)

8 – ¾” Plywood @ 15 ½ x 13 ½”  (Sides and center support)

2 – ¼” Plywood @ 77” x 15” (Backing of box)

Support and Center:

2 – 2x2 @ 77 ¼”

2 – 2x2 @16 ¾”

18 – 1x3 @ 22 ½”

Drawer Boxes:

12 – 1x10 @ 22 ¼” (Front and back of drawer box)

12 – 1x10 @ 14” (Sides of drawer box)

6 – ¼” Plywood @ 23 ¾” x 14” (Bottom of drawers)

* ¾” Plywood sheet cut into 9 ½” strips will be the same size as the 1x10’s. It was cheaper for me using plywood.

Drawer Faces

6 – ¾” Plywood @ 24 ½” x 13 ¼”

12 – ¼” hobby stock, 2 ½” wide @ 8 ¼”

12 – ¼” Hobby Stock, 2 ½” wide @ 24 ½”

 

This should be a conversion from this Queen down to a Full.

 

 

 

soapdish

Tue, 12/09/2014 - 16:27

I'm looking over the cut plans and I'm wondering if the 13-1/4"x15-1/2" cuts on plywood sheet #2 and #3 shouldn't be 13-1/2" x 15-1/2" cuts for the Storage Boxes.

fubar911

Sat, 03/07/2015 - 18:11

I noticed the error too. From just looking through the plans you can see the 2x4s on the headboard are spaced 15inches (19 from the floor to the top board and 4 up off the floor equals 15inches) Part 7....The picture looks like the drawers are flush with the top and bottom of the 2x4. If you cut the plywood at 13.5 you then add the 3/4 for the bottom piece and 3/4 on the top piece which equals 15 total.
I hope that makes sense to people.
I will be trying to make this soon. I will probably add a 2x4 frame to the floor on the inside and attach it to the backs of the drawers. I weigh 260lb and that plywood will bow at some point. I was tempted to put it flush to the floor but wanted the air flow because a vent is by the bed. Also, I will cover the plywood ends with nice trim and just inset the drawer frame and shrink the drawer size.