Farmhouse Storage Bed with Drawers (Queen)

Submitted by Ana White on Tue, 09/25/2018 - 23:40
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Farmhouse Bed plans for a small space! This bed packs lots of storage in a more compact profile. Detailed step by step plans to help you build your own DIY Farmhouse Bed in queen size.

Also check out our Full and Twin Farmhouse Storage Bed plans.

farmhouse bed with storage drawers
farmhouse storage bed dimensions queen

Reader submitted photo by BEEKEEPER has some modifications from plans

So excited to add this plan to the Farmhouse Bed Collection! Thank you for requesting!

It's an updated approach to our most popular plan.

I've made a few changes to this bed.  The panels are plywood (although you can still do beadboard paneling or planks for a more country look) and the overall width is 7" narrower than the tradditional Farmhouse Beds.  The reason for this is the mattress on this bed extends all the way to the outsides of the legs, instead of to the insides.  
So if you have a compact space, this bed is a great alternative to the Farmhouse Bed.  It's smaller and includes six huge HUGE drawers for storage.
Please do not attempt this bed as a beginner project with the drawers.  For drawers to work, you must build perfectly square, and all cuts must be square and straight.
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Farmhouse Storage Bed with Drawers

dimensions diagram of farmhouse bed with storage drawers in queen size
Dimensions are shown above for queen size.


Shopping List
  • 3 - Sheets 3/4" Plywood or other sheet goods
  • 1 1/2 - Sheets 1/4" Plywood or other sheet goods
  • 2 - 4x4 post, 7 feet long
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 10 feet long
  • 3 - 2x4 @ 10 feet long (cut longest first!)
  • 5 - 1x10 @ 8 feet long (OR 1 sheet of 3/4" plywood cut into 5 strips 9 1/4" wide)
  • 6 - Euro Style Drawer Slides (the cheapo white ones) 14" long, medium to heavy duty rating
  • 2 - 2x6 @ 6 feet long
  • 3 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
  • 9 - 1x3 @ 8 feet long
  • 5 - 1/4" hobby stock, 2 1/2" wide @ 8 feet long (OR 1/4" plywood cut into strips 2 1/2" wide)
  • 4" Screws (if you are not using a pocket hole jig and will be attaching 4x4 legs to panels with screws)
  • 6 Knobs or handles

NOTE: Drawers are optional - can be added later or just used as storage shelves.  The shopping list DOES include materials for the drawers, so if not building drawers, please adjust shopping list accordingly

Common Materials
2 inch screws
3 inch screws
3/4 inch finish nails
1 1/4 inch finish nails
2 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
paint brush
Cut List


  • 1 - 3/4" Plywood @ 26" x 53" (Can substitute planked wood for panel to create a more authentic "farmhouse" look)
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 53"
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 54"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 53"
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 60"
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 62"


  • 1 - 3/4" Plywood @ 15" x 53" (Can substitute planked wood for panel to create a more authentic "farmhouse" look)
  • 2 - 1x4 @ 53"
  • 2 - 4x4 @ 19"
  • 2 - 2x4 @ 53"
  • 1 - 2x4 @ 60"
  • 1 - 2x6 @ 62"


  • 4 - 3/4" Plywood @ 15 1/2" x 80 1/4"
  • 8 - 3/4" Plywood @ 15 1/2" x 13 1/2"
  • 2 - 1/4" Plywood @ 80-1/4" x 15"


  • 2 - 2x2 @ 80 1/4"
  • 4 - 2x2 @ 16 3/4"
  • 18 - 1x3 @ 28 1/2" (Slats to mattress specs)


  • 12 - 1x10* @ 23 1/4"
  • 12 - 1x10* @ 14"
  • 6 - 1/4" Plywood @ 24 3/4" x 14"

*Plywood cut into 9 1/4" strips can be substituted for 1x10s, use at least 1/2" thick plywood; for direct conversion to cut list use 3/4" thick plywood


  • 6 - 3/4" Plywood @ 25 1/2" x 13 1/4"
  • 12 - 1/4" hobby stock, 2 1/2" wide @ 8 1/4"
  • 12 - 1/4" hobby stock, 2 1/2" wide @ 25 1/2"
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Circular Saw
Table Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
Drill Bit Set
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

Have your hardware store rip the first piece into three equal sized strips, 15 1/2" wide. Then all you have to do is make the cross cuts at home. These cuts are from the 3/4" thick plywood.

NOTE: Measurement should be 15-1/2" x 13-1/2" NOT 13-1/4" - please check with cut list

Step 2

From another sheet of 3/4" plywood, have your hardware store rip into two 15 1/2" strips and one 13 1/4" strip. From these strips cut the following pieces.

NOTE: Measurement should be 15-1/2" x 13-1/2" NOT 13-1/4" - please check with cut list

Step 3

From the final 3/4" piece of plywood, cut it cross wise as noted in the diagram, and then cut your headboard and footboard panel from the larger half. From the remaining pieces, cut your remaining drawer faces as shown above.

Step 4

From the 1/4" plywood, cut the following pieces. You will need to either purchase an additional 1/2 sheet of plywood for the two remaining drawer bottoms, or you could use leftover 3/4" stock for the remaining two drawer bottoms.

Step 5

The largest cuts on this diagram should be 80-1/4" long, NOT 79-1/2". 

Step 6

This is a relatively easy task if you have a Kreg Jig - simply drill 3/4" pocket holes along sides of panel and attach to legs. Make sure you are leaving 1 1/2" to the back of the panel as shown above (Very important with footboard).

If you are using traditional screws, mark the legs where they meet up with the panel at the top and bottom (where the panel is covered in trim. Use a drill bit the size of the screw head to drill a hole 2" deep into the legs. In this hole, use a drill bit the size of the screw head to drill a second hole all the way through the 4x4s. Attach to panel with 4" screws and glue.

Step 7

Attach the bottom supports in the same manner as the panel, carefully locating as shown in diagram.

Step 8

Hooray, an easy step! Attach as shown above.

Step 9

Finally the crown. I'd screw on myself to minimize any gaps.

Step 10

The footboard is built just like the headboard - make sure you leave 1 1/2" to the back of the panel - see next step ...

Step 11

This is so your 2x4 spacers fit just right in the backs. Attach with screws and glue.

Step 12

You can build these with either a pocket hole jig or traditional screws. Build square if you are using drawers or your drawers will not slide right.

Step 13

Attach back to the boxes with finish nails and glue. Make sure you nail into all center dividers too. The back will help keep things straight and minimize sagging.

Step 14

Now this is where things get fun! Take a minute and cut some leftover 4x4s or 2x4s 4" long and use them as blocking to hold the boxes up as you screw to the headboard and footboard. Screw from the inside of the boxes into the legs and supports.

Step 15

Attach the cleats to the back side of the boxes, leaving 3/4" gap to the top.

Step 16

Especially if you move up to a king, you will need to add some support to the center. Some 2x2s "legs" as shown above will never be seen, but add a tremendous amount of support to the bed.

Step 17

Finally, lay the slats. Per your mattress recommendation, you may need more (or can get away with less) slats.

Step 18

Build six drawers as shown above. Your drawers must be perfectly square to slide properly into the bed. Remember, your drawer should be exactly 1" less than the overall width of the opening, and 1" less deep as well.

Step 19

Install drawers into bed as shown in diagram, using the white euro style drawer slides that cup the bottom corners of the drawers. Make sure drawer sits inset 1" from outside of box to allow for drawer face. Adjust drawer slides until you are satisfied with how the drawer opens/closes.

Step 20

Build the drawer faces by attaching 1/4" hobby stock (or other moulding) to the faces with 3/4" finish nails and glue. Place drawer face on installed drawers, with an 1/8" gap on all sides of drawer face. Attach with 1 1/4" finish nails and wood glue.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.


Guest (not verified)

Mon, 09/26/2011 - 09:45

What I wouldn't give for you to simply build this for me! I live in Fairbanks, let's make a deal. lol.

Guest (not verified)

Mon, 09/26/2011 - 09:49

This would bring a ton of room to my bedroom!! I wish I had the tools and space to make this bed!!

I am assuming this if for a queen sized bed...

Thank you for all you do!!!

therese (not verified)

Mon, 09/26/2011 - 10:18

Dh will want box springs. Can they be used? Will the bed end up too high? Thanks. I love this bed!


Mon, 09/26/2011 - 18:19

I love this plan! Several months back, I modified the previous storage bed plans to do something pretty close to this in a King size. One of the differences is that I made the back-most drawers (the ones closest to the headboard) only 16" wide and made the remaining 2 drawers on each side wider, since those back drawers will normally be blocked by nightstands. So those are for not-often-needed items, and I get the rest of the length for easy access storage.

It's been mentioned that these types of platform beds can foster mold growth on mattresses in high-humidity areas, and I'm in north FL so it's a concern for me. I added more breathe-ability to mine by using 2X4 slats across the entire width, instead of making the center support as shown in these plans. I just added a molding board along the sides to cover the 2X4 edges.

I got busy with other stuff and haven't finished the headboard and footboard, but we've been sleeping on it for months and it's been fantastic. Have to get back to this project soon, and now I know I'll be using these plans for the headboard and footboard!


Mon, 09/26/2011 - 18:22

I would love to see your variation with the slats across the entire width. Would you mind posting a picture? Thanks, Serena


Mon, 09/26/2011 - 18:58

Sure, I'm not sure if there's a way to embed photos here in a comment, but here are links to 2 pics:……

These are in-progress photos. We wanted to make the bed really easy to disassemble for potential moving in the future, so we also glued/nailed spacers in between each slat, cut from 2X4 scraps. The big side boxes are 24" deep, so the center space is only 28" across.

Zanne (not verified)

Thu, 06/14/2012 - 22:48

I know this is an old thread, but I just found it recently. You said you made the drawers near the nightstand only 16 inches, but exactly how wide did you make each of the other drawers?
Were they evenly sized or did you have one larger than the other?
Would the width of the drawers be the same on a queen as on a king?
Thank you for sharing the information! After I practice on some other projects I think I will attempt a variation of this. I'm a bit rusty on my woodworking and I won't have any help this time around.


Tue, 08/27/2013 - 03:22

Hi, Dee!

Your idea to make the cubbies closer to the headboard is a great idea. I was actually trying to sketch something like that out. I would think that instead of having an actual drawer in the part obscured by night stands, there could be a shelf in the middle-- although that might make it hard to get to stuff on the bottom shelf-- I'm not sure. Maybe some decorative trim could be put on the edge to give it the illusion of having a drawer and the rest will be hidden from view by the night stand.

I've been reading that a rug mat (to keep rugs from slipping) can be placed underneath to prevent mold.

Memory foam mattresses supposedly don't grow mold. I got a 14" one from Overstock for under $500 with free shipping. It weighs 90lbs though. It comes with all of the air pushed out and is rolled up and put in a sack. You have to find a place to lay it out for it to puff up before using it. I think that takes about 48 hours.

When you decreased the opening to 16" for the nighstand area space, what size did you make the other spaces?


Wed, 09/28/2011 - 23:34

I tried to download the PDF and the link isn't working for this plan. Just thought I'd let you know.

LOVE this bed. I had planned to build a Farmhouse bed for my husband and I but then I saw this and I LOVE it so much more! We always are griping about needing more storage - kills two birds with one stone!

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