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Fancy X Farmhouse Table

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Submitted by Ana White on Thu, 05/23/2019 - 11:19
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Build the Fancy X Farmhouse Table from 2x4s and lumber for $65.  A reader favorite, this table has been built thousands of times.  

We also have plans for a matching bench and lots more farmhouse furniture plans.

dark wood stained farmhouse table with X legs and cross bracing
side view of farmhouse table with cross bracing

 

 

Whitney from Shanty2Chic and I teamed up to help you get that designer look without the price tag! 

 

 

Whitney has a family of seven, and wanted to build a sturdy and strong farmhouse table with a little bit of fancy to it to dine on outdoors this summer.

This is my very favorite build yet! I have been in serious need for an outdoor table to seat my family of 7. When we stumbled upon a beautiful, long farmhouse table from Anthropologie, I knew it was love at first sight. Everything was perfect about it... Except that $2,000 price tag... Ouch. That hurts to even write. But... I knew who to call to help me make my own at a very small fraction of that cost! This baby only cost me $65!

Head over to visit Whitney at Shanty2Chic to get all the details, lots more photos, and a peek at her construction process!

 

Thanks Whitney!!!

 

Dimensions
dimensions diagram of farmhouse table with X bracing
Dimensions are shown above.

Preparation

Shopping List

4 – 2x10 @ 8 feet long

7 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long

1 – 1x4 @ 12 feet long

3” self tapping wood screws 

2 ½” pocket hole screws

2” finish nails

Cut List

ENDS

  • 8 – 2x4 @ 11 3/8” (ends cut at 45 degrees off square, longest point measurement, NOT parallel)
  • 4 – 2x4 @ 20”
  • 4 – 1x4 @ 28 3/8” **
  • 8 – 2x4 @ 32 5/8” CUT TO FIT **
  • 4 – 1x4 @ 3 ½”

 

MAIN TABLE

2 – 2x4 @ 65”

2 – 2x4 @ 30 3/8” (both ends cut parallel at 45 degrees off square)

4 – 2x10 @ 96”

 

** For 45 degree cut tops and bottoms (easier) on the legs top and bottom (see steps 3-5 and step 10), replace these cuts with:

4 - 2x4 @ 31" (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square NOT parallel long point measurement)

4 - 2x4 @ 34" (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square NOT parallel long point measurement)

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Build four of these. I’d simply countersink screws from the backs into the ends of the cross braces using 2-1/2" self tapping wood screws

Step 2

Then just attach two of the leg pieces together with glue and 2” finish nails from each side

Step 3

And add the top/bottom. You can use 2” screws or nails here and glue.

Step 4

And then add the curved pieces. The ends may be a challenge – what I do is first cut a 2x4 32 5/8” long with both ends cut at 30 degrees off square, ends not parallel. Then make a second cut at 45 (or more if your saw cuts higher degree bevels) degrees off square and cut that same board 28 3/8”  short point to short point. 

Step 5

Repeat for the next layer of 2xs to build up your leg ends

Step 6

Followed by the little feet ...

Step 7

I'd recommend 1 1/2" PHs and 2 1/2" PH screws here ... hide on top and bottom edges

Step 8

The easiest way to attach cross braces is with pocket holes.  But you will have to fill later with wood filler.

An alternative is to glue and screw through the cross brace into the top and bottom 2x4s with longer screws.

Step 9

And finally the top! I recommend building the tabletop first with pocket holes and then attaching.

If you are using the table outdoors, leave a little space between the boards for water drainage.

Step 10

And for the alternate ends like Whitney did - just use 45 degrees off square cuts.

Step 11

For more photos and construction details, please stop over and visit Whitney at Shanty2Chic!

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Project Type
Table Plans
Dining Table Plans
Room
dining room
Style
Farmhouse Furniture

Comments

Cwill1022

Wed, 07/22/2020 - 07:59

Does anybody know what stain was used on the one in the pictures? Looking to get as close to possible. Also - Any recommendations on sealing this since it will be outside (under a covered patio) but will get some rain on it. Thanks!

trevorflaherty

Tue, 12/08/2020 - 14:26

I am making this table now and am loving every piece of it. My frustration lies in the fact that every time I see one of these builds you have it priced out for a super cheap number. I have yet to build anything from your plans for anything close to what you say you can build it for. Shanty says this table was built for $65 but I spent $60 on the 2x10s alone. I know lumber prices have skyrocketed but even still I see no way to make these things for the prices you quote. Expect the blanket ladder I made for 12 bucks with 2 2x8s. (-:

Regardless, these plans in general are awesome and this table will be a fantastic Xmas present for my other half!!!

trevorflaherty

Tue, 12/08/2020 - 14:51

Another quick question...there is no mention on how to connect the table top to the legs...is there a preferred method? I was hoping to hide the screws from underneath but the legs go pretty thick. I may have to go top, countersink a bit and add filler. Thoughts?