Community Brag Posts

What a fantastic plan.  I made one for my granddaughter.  It has two advantages over the doll house I made years ago.  (1) It can be unstacked and shipped.  This one will be shipped.  (2) It allows the child to restack and rearrange rooms.  My grandaughter loves to rearrange things.  It is an "engineering inclination" according to her mother.  Well, she can rearrange these rooms as many times as she likes.

I made only one change to the published plan.  I expanded the rooms to 8" wide, 8" high and 16" long in order to accommodate a piece of furniture my son-in-law had already made.  Maintaining the 2-to-1 ratio keeps everything fitting together well.

Thank you again.

Like many others have mentioned, I wanted a 36" high table so I could use it as a bar. Ana mentioned that it would be too wide at 15 degrees so perhaps 10, after busting out some trigonometry I found that 10 degrees would give you about a 16" base and 15 would give you a 24" base. So, 12.5 degrees it came to be if you want a 20" base.

Many have said it takes 4 2x2's, that definitely holds true with this modification.

Here are my measurements, otherwise the cuts and assembly are the same as the original:

All angles are now 12.5 degrees rather than 15.

The legs are 33 3/4" from end to end

The outside edges of the legs should come to 20 1/4" wide for the base.

The stretcher will stay the same 13 3/4" on the bottom length, just cut at 12.5 degrees.

The stretcher is now 7 3/8" up from the ground, I found it was easiest to measure 7 1/2" up along the inside of the legs and line the bottom of the stretcher up at this mark.

And that's it!

A tip I used was clamping 4 2x2's together to get all the legs even, this only works if you have a sliding compound miter saw. I also recommend doing the straight cuts first and then leave the saw set at 12 1/2 degrees until you finish the project, this will keep cuts consistent.

Other modifications I made were to shorten the depth to 16 1/2" and use 2x6's for the top, I needed a narrow table in the room. I also made the depth of the sawhorses only 15 inches so the top would have a 3/4" overhang in front and back, I think this cleaned up the look some.

I loved this table the second I saw it and knew I had to build it. The only modification I did was adding an additional 2x10 to the table top to increase the width. It is a pretty substantial table but the table top is a really good size (makes folding laundry awesome!). 

Wife wanted something that matched the comforter colors but looked a little antique-y. So I made her this!

My wife loved the Benchwright table at pottery barn, and I did not love the price. Got a lot of ideas from this site and tried to make it my own. The outside and legs are made from 5"x5" Cypress, purchased from a local saw mill. I used a kreg jig on the entire thing along with lag bolts and glue. It is very heavy and I can jump up and down on it. Bought the hardware from Fastenal. Fun project, took about 16 hours total.

This is build 2 and I was really happy with how well it came together.  I used Douglas Fir again as it takes the vinegar and steel wool mixture really well.  This piece was hand waxed for a different look than my corner table.  I love the tight grain in the top and how the variations in the grain caused some of the wood to appear almost white while the rest of the top is very grey.

I made this from Anna White's plans. Thanks for your idea and the plans. It is made from Mahogany, Pine, and I used 1/4 aspen plywood for the back. I made the face frame (rails and stiles) with the Mahogany, and did mortise and tennon joinery and then attached to the shelving. I made the raised panel doors out of Mahogany also and made the crown moulding as the trim piece out of the same species. The shelving and back board is from pine and capped with mahogany trim on the shelf edge. The door knobs are not yet on in the picture, but I used solid wood round knobs and stained the same colour and located the knobs up near the top of the door stiles.

Stained in Dark Walnut Minwax Water based and finished in Varathane Semi Gloss water based.

My 7 year old daughter LOVES her new loft bed!!! It was a fun build. Plans were very accurate and simple to follow. Took a weekend to build and about 5 nights to paint.
Next I plan on building a desk and some shelves under the bed. More pics to come!

I've been seeing a lot of window panes turned photo frame and really liked the look. We didn't have any extra panes around but I did have a bunch of scrap pieces of 3/4 inch plywood so I decided to make my own!

We built our coffee table to match our farmhouse entry table! I love the tutorials from Ana White! We made changes to the bottom shelf and used 2x2 slats instead of the 1x12 pieces. Also changed the dimensions so it measures about 56x34 (kept the height the same). It complements our living room perfectly! I can't wait to built end tables next! 

I used the Clara Table design then decided to make the table top into a lego table. I bought (4) Lego Plates from Target at $15 each. Then super glued the Lego Plates onto the tabletop.

*** Note- Make sure that the spacing between Lego Plates is correct. I used different Lego's to connect the different plates to make sure that the spacing was correct.

Thanks for the ideas Ana!

i was able to rescue a few doors out of a roughly 140 year old house.  so the idea of a head and footboard came to mind.   the headboard is oak was the front door, and the footboard is pine from bedroom.  these were not taken apart just sanded cut to length and finished.   now everyone around me wants a pair.

I really didn't want to need to feed/water the chickens too much, but at the same time only having four didn't really necessitate a massive system. I found this video for a feeder (https://youtu.be/pzW4YytXYaQ ), and then bought some sideways chicken nipples off of amazon and <~$20 later it was done. I've since gone in and made the street elbows for the feeder a little longer than he recommends, which has made them truly zero waste. 

Also, a couple of good wheels from Tractor Supply (https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/titan-casters-4-in-rigid-poly…) on the one side and some handles on the other and boom, chicken tractor. 

Finally, I noticed one person that had extended the rungs on the ramp out... my chickens love that and are on them almost all the time. Lastly, I put a quick 1x2 at the top of the ramp to keep the chips from spilling when I move it, but they really like roosting there, now.

I really enjoyed building this headboard. I had all of the wood cut at Home Depot saving some time. Putting the headboard together was pretty simple. First I applied wood conditioner then I used an expresso stain. I then sanded everything and used Rustoleum satin fossil colored spray paint. After the paint dried, I sanded again and applied Minwax express color in walnut. That was it! I love how this turned out.

A great plan that was so easy to follow!  My hubby and I had a great time building this, even though it took us about a year from start to finish, actual work time on this project was not huge.  The Kreg jig was brilliant and made everything so easy.  

We started building farm tables just recently and used the great plans from the Ana White site along with all the helpful other brag posts.  The main construction of the table was based on the plans from here: www.ana-white.com/2012/11/plans/farmhouse-table-updated-pocket-hole-plans along with some other modifications made along the way.  The table turned out great and just wanted to give thanks for the plans and this community.  

We built more than just the picture uploaded if you want to see more versions/sizez you can check them out here: http://backyardcedarsevents.com/gallery/

Thanks for the great DIY website - the projects and plans here are great for everything!