Using plywood as drawer faces - unfinished edges?

I am interested in the answer to this as well.  From what I can tell, using 1x for the drawer faces, rails and stiles will make the complete drawer face too deep.  Using 3/8" on top of 3/8" makes the drawer face 3/4"--matching it up to the 3/4" frame for the drawer.  If you use 1x on top of 1x, the complete drawer face will be 1 1/2" deep.

 

I am wanting to use plywood for the classic storage base and hutch and asked a similar question about how to finish the edges on the finishing forum.  Edgebanding was the conclusion, but I'm thinking that will mess with the cut dimensions since the edgebanding has to have some dimension to it.  I'm going to play around with it once the holidays are over and see what happens.  I don't want to use mdf, but I might compromise and just use it on those pieces that are going to have exposed, unfinished edges.

 

I'm hoping someone jumps in here and tells us how they solved this problem!

I am interested in the answer to this as well.  From what I can tell, using 1x for the drawer faces, rails and stiles will make the complete drawer face too deep.  Using 3/8" on top of 3/8" makes the drawer face 3/4"--matching it up to the 3/4" frame for the drawer.  If you use 1x on top of 1x, the complete drawer face will be 1 1/2" deep.

I am wanting to use plywood for the classic storage base and hutch and asked a similar question about how to finish the edges on the finishing forum.  Edgebanding was the conclusion, but I'm thinking that will mess with the cut dimensions since the edgebanding has to have some dimension to it.  I'm going to play around with it once the holidays are over and see what happens.  I don't want to use mdf, but I might compromise and just use it on those pieces that are going to have exposed, unfinished edges.

I'm hoping someone jumps in here and tells us how they solved this problem!

If you are painting the piece, filling the holes and smoothing the edges with wood putty, then sanding it smooth will be sufficient.  If you want to stain it, be really extra careful on the wood putty, and fill and sand the edges before you assemble it.

 

If you want a "fine furniture" edge - no plywood edges visible - you have to use a different technique, such as edge banding on 3/4 plywood, or make the frame out of 1x2s and routing out a space for the plywood to hide. It adds a level of complexity and expense that many people might not want to tackle.

Kristen said:

I am interested in the answer to this as well.  From what I can tell, using 1x for the drawer faces, rails and stiles will make the complete drawer face too deep.  Using 3/8" on top of 3/8" makes the drawer face 3/4"--matching it up to the 3/4" frame for the drawer.  If you use 1x on top of 1x, the complete drawer face will be 1 1/2" deep.

I am wanting to use plywood for the classic storage base and hutch and asked a similar question about how to finish the edges on the finishing forum.  Edgebanding was the conclusion, but I'm thinking that will mess with the cut dimensions since the edgebanding has to have some dimension to it.  I'm going to play around with it once the holidays are over and see what happens.  I don't want to use mdf, but I might compromise and just use it on those pieces that are going to have exposed, unfinished edges.

I'm hoping someone jumps in here and tells us how they solved this problem!

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Edge banding typically has a thickness of no more than 1/16 of an inch, including glue. If you have an old iron (no steam function necessary), an extra block of wood to use to apply pressure behind the iron while the glue cools, and some fine grit sandpaper to clean up your edges (220 is great for this), you can edgeband easily. Other equipment that is nice to have but not critical is an exacto knife to cut the banding cleanly (always a bit oversize to account for slippage in the application), and a metal block - ideally aluminum - instead of a wooden one to act as a heat sink to cool the glue and wooden edge banding faster than is possible with wood.

It can be a bit time consuming when you first start, but then you get into a groove and it can start to go pretty quickly. If you alter your dimensions, remember to account for twice the thickness of the edge banding.  I don't know what the gap is around the drawer faces on that particular plan, but you shouldn't have to alter the dimension too dramatically to allow for the edge banding and still have the drawer fit cleanly.

Thanks for the information!  Due to plywood cutting problems (which you helped answer on another question, thanks for that too!) I haven't got much done on this project.  I'll have to come back to this post after I try all this out and report on my success (at least I hope it is success!).