Kreg Jig and splitting wood/screws popping through 1x material

Submitted by kristen on Tue, 11/16/2010 - 05:46

I think I have figured out my problem, and I thought I would post this on here in case anyone else is experiencing this.  I have had problems while using the Kreg Jig, with screws popping through or splitting the wood with 1x material.  For example, I was joining 1x3s side-to-side to create a larger, flat piece of wood and the screws popped up through the flat part of the wood.  But I didn't have any problems when I was making 90 degree joins. 

 

I think the problem is when I am screwing into the wood sideways (drill is almost parallel with the floor) rather than from above the pocket hole (drill is almost perpendicular with the floor).  There is only 3/4 in of wood, so if you don't get the Kreg screw in there just right, it will pop through.  It is much easier to do this when the drill is aimed at the floor.

 

This is only my second project and I had this problem with my first also.  I could have prevented it by how I was clamping and assembling the project.  If I had always assembled so I was working above the pocket hole, it would have helped.  Obviously you can't do this joining side-to-side to create a large, flat piece of wood (or can you and I just haven't thought of that solution yet??!!), but for a join where it is possible, go for the above-the-pocket-hole orientation.

 

Maybe this is intuitive for others, but it wasn't for me.  Just throwing that out there for other newbies to this whole process!

Tsu Dho Nimh

Tue, 11/16/2010 - 12:03

Kristen said:

If I had always assembled so I was working above the pocket hole, it would have helped.  Obviously you can't do this joining side-to-side to create a large, flat piece of wood (or can you and I just haven't thought of that solution yet??!


Some folding work tables can act as a clamp and hold a piece like this ... | ...

Then you could clamp the next piece, the one with the pocketholes, above it, drill down:

Just keep adding pieces, or make several pairs and then screw the pairs together

smasumur

Wed, 11/17/2010 - 11:57

Kristen said:

 

This is only my second project and I had this problem with my first also.  I could have prevented it by how I was clamping and assembling the project.  If I had always assembled so I was working above the pocket hole, it would have helped.  Obviously you can't do this joining side-to-side to create a large, flat piece of wood (or can you and I just haven't thought of that solution yet??!!), but for a join where it is possible, go for the above-the-pocket-hole orientation.


When making the angle chairs, I opted to screw boards together rather than use a piece of MDF or plywood.  I used  two bar clamps (like this one from Blue (http://www.lowes.com/pd_118178.....t%3Dclamp)) to clamps the two pieces together flat.  I also cleared enough space on my flat table to assemble the seat there.  It was much easier to assemble the pieces and drill almost horizontally when it was higher up.  I've also assembled on the floor, but table tops are preferrable. 

You might also want to check on the screws as fine threaded ones are better for hardwoods (the expensive wood) and coarse is better for your whitewood boards and plywood.  Having the wrong screws can sometimes increase the amount of effort you need to put into screwing stuff together.

Just keep building, I'd say.  I made two messy looking side tables and a standing desk before I got the hang of it and figured out what worked best for me.

kristen

Wed, 11/24/2010 - 12:58

Thanks everyone for the help with this!  Luckily the problem spots were on the bottom of shelves, so I'm not too bothered with the results I got on this particular project.

 

I used the Kreg Jig coarse screws with the whitewood boards and assembled on a portable workbench up off the ground, but both are good points--especially having the work up higher when making panels.  I think that would help and probably is why some of the screws went in fine on the one I made.  smasumur--would love to see pics of your finished angle chairs and the panels you made.

 

Tsu Dho Nimh--I bought a portable workbench on your recommendation on another post you answered for me (thanks for that suggestion, by the way).  Made working A LOT more enjoyable for this project.  I wondered what the heck to do with the black clamp-like things that came with it.  I'll try out your suggestion on my next panel attempt. 

 

I am personally happy to see a KregRep on here, specifically for Kreg Jig questions!  I checked out the link and I will be trying some of those suggestions as well.  I think this tip might be helpful:

By driving your screw half of the way in, back out, and then in again, you’ll reduce any excess wood in the hole.

 

Thanks again for the help!

Thyri

Mon, 10/26/2015 - 18:50

I had a variation of one of the points in the linked post. I was punching through the face of the board to which I was attaching my drilled board. I'm making frames from 1"x2" stock. It turns out that the thickness is actually 11/16". I'm going to try 1" screws and see if they work. I may play with backing the collet off a bit too, but given where the screws are coming out of the first board, I think I would be better off treating the boards as 5/8" instead of 3/4". Of course this didn't happen with my test pieces. frown Luckily this is just cheap pine.

Thyri

Mon, 10/26/2015 - 18:50

I had a variation of one of the points in the linked post. I was punching through the face of the board to which I was attaching my drilled board. I'm making frames from 1"x2" stock. It turns out that the thickness is actually 11/16". I'm going to try 1" screws and see if they work. I may play with backing the collet off a bit too, but given where the screws are coming out of the first board, I think I would be better off treating the boards as 5/8" instead of 3/4". Of course this didn't happen with my test pieces. frown Luckily this is just cheap pine.

Thyri

Mon, 10/26/2015 - 19:27

Addendum smiley: The 1" screws I'm going to try are supposed to be used with 5/8" thick material. I was using 1 1/4" screws which are supposed to be used with 3/4" material.