For the life of me, I cannot find how to notch the wood for the farmhouse table. Also, can I use 4x4s for the legs...does that change the dimensions...can 4x4s still be notched the same way?
I just took a look at the design. That notch is called a dado, and they're kind of a pain in the tail to cut. The good news is that you can learn to do it pretty easily. I just built a workbench using a very similar design, using only hand tools.
You'll need a small handsaw (either a backsaw or a ryoba), a large chisel, an adjustable combination square and a marking knife. There are specific knives for marking joinery, but unless you're willing to spend a lot of cash or make your own knives, a utility knife with a new blade is your best bet. Notice that I didn't mention a tape measure. That's because you aren't going to measure anything, you're going to use the adjustability of the combination square to mark all of your measurements.
First, a note about using a marking knife. It's sharp, so keep your fingers out of the way. It makes your marking more accurate, and you'll need the accuracy for this job. But I frequently get a little blood on my work during the marking process. It's okay, it sands out, and your finger will stop bleeding pretty quickly (one of those things I've learned through experience). Also, plastic band-aides are really bad for gripping things, so don't use them.
Set the length of your combination square to the height that your dado (the notch) is going to start from the bottom of the leg. Mark the height on the corner of the legs by putting the square against the bottom and marking against the end of the rule on the square.
Now use the square to mark the cut for the bottom of the notch. The way to do that is to put the knife blade in the notch you marked in the previous step, and slide the square up to the knife. Draw the line across, making certain the keep the fence of the square flush to the side. Don't worry about making the cut deep, so long as it is clear. Repeat this for the bottom cuts on each of the legs.
Now take the wood you're going to use for the stretcher (the bit that goes between the legs). Lay it across the legs the way it will be assembled. Line the bottom up with the line you have marked, and put a notch on the corner of the leg at the top of the stretcher. Do this for each of the legs.
Now extend the line across the leg, just like you did for the bottom line.
Extend the line down both sides of the leg using the square again. You really only need to take them half way.
Now set the length of your combination square to the depth of the stretcher cut. I do this by putting the fench against one face of the board, and sliding the rule until it is flush with the other face. Don't forget to tighten it down before you take it away from the wood or you'll be repeating this step.
Use the depth you just measured to mark the depth of the cut on the sides. I do it by marking that depth next to the lines I've extended down the sides, and then marking it in increments along the full width of the cut. Do this for each of the legs.
Now I use my chisel to deepen the lines I have marked. I cut straight down with the bevel towards the bit that I'm cutting out. You can do it by hand, but a light rap with a hammer or mallet is better. I then come back and using hand pressure only relieve the cut by cutting at an angle, from the side of the line that will be cut away towards the line. Do this very gently, and don't put your fingers anywhere ahead of the chisel. A chisel is an amazing tool for shortening fingers.
Now use your saw to cut out the sides of your dado, down to the depth of the cut. You shouldn't apply much force on the saw. Too much force on the saw will tend to cause troubles with the cut, and you'll have to shim it or clean it up with a chisel. This is going to take a little bit, and you'll have to be patient. But you'll be a lot better at cutting with a hand saw before you're done (I can now make these cuts fairly quickly).
Now use your chisel and a hammer or mallet to hog out the waste. I just start levering off layers of wood from the outer edge working down. I work in from each side, because otherwise I can blow out the wood on the opposite side. When you get near the bottom, starting sliding the chisel along the width of the cut instead of the hard chopping. This makes a smoother, more controlled cut.
This is a lot of work, but it will make a really strong joint and it's completely worth the effort.
If you're wanting to see some good information on using a hand saw and a chisel, there are a couple of blogs woth checking out. Rob Rosiaki of Logan Cabinette Shoppe and Chris Schwarz of Woodworking Magazine have lots of good tips and videos about working with hand tools. Like Ana, they do a great job of making the work that can be intimidating from the outside into something approachable that you can do if you try.
If you have a circular saw you can use it tocut dadoes or half lap type joints. Layout the joint carefully and use a framing square to guide the saw when making the outer edge cuts. Then make several parallel cuts in the area to be notched, leaving about 1/4" between cuts. Then the majority of the waste can be broken out with a hammer and then the bottom of the cut can be cleaned up with a sharp chisel. Practice a few times on a scrap to get the hang of it.
I had in fact considered recommending Dan's technique, but I've had instances of the saw bucking when I've tried it in the past. That's really scary, so I thought I'd pass on it. I just built a workbench that used 4 of these joints on each leg, all cut using the method I described. Moderately strenuous, but if you pace yourself not at all difficult.
If the 4x4s you buy are of douglas fir (sometimes marked doug fir) it will be a little easier. It's slightly harder to cut than pine, but the straight grain makes the chiseling a lot easier. This applies for most methods.
Another point worth noting is on tools. If you start doing a lot of work with chisels (or even a little bit here and there), you're going to need to learn how to sharpen them. Especially the chisels you buy at the big box stores dull relatively quickly. There are a competing sects in the sharpening world, but the quickest way to get started is to google "Scary Sharp." It's essentially progressively finger grades of sandpaper glued to a sturdy flat surface (the original article recommends glass, but I use a polished granite tile).
If you discover that you like what you can do with chisels, it's worth buying a better set. My dad and I both have sets from Narex. You have to order them online, but we've both been happy with ours, and they stay sharper way longer than the chisels from the big box store.
claydowling
Sat, 01/29/2011 - 09:02
I just took a look at the design. That notch is called a dado, and they're kind of a pain in the tail to cut. The good news is that you can learn to do it pretty easily. I just built a workbench using a very similar design, using only hand tools.
You'll need a small handsaw (either a backsaw or a ryoba), a large chisel, an adjustable combination square and a marking knife. There are specific knives for marking joinery, but unless you're willing to spend a lot of cash or make your own knives, a utility knife with a new blade is your best bet. Notice that I didn't mention a tape measure. That's because you aren't going to measure anything, you're going to use the adjustability of the combination square to mark all of your measurements.
First, a note about using a marking knife. It's sharp, so keep your fingers out of the way. It makes your marking more accurate, and you'll need the accuracy for this job. But I frequently get a little blood on my work during the marking process. It's okay, it sands out, and your finger will stop bleeding pretty quickly (one of those things I've learned through experience). Also, plastic band-aides are really bad for gripping things, so don't use them.
Set the length of your combination square to the height that your dado (the notch) is going to start from the bottom of the leg. Mark the height on the corner of the legs by putting the square against the bottom and marking against the end of the rule on the square.
Now use the square to mark the cut for the bottom of the notch. The way to do that is to put the knife blade in the notch you marked in the previous step, and slide the square up to the knife. Draw the line across, making certain the keep the fence of the square flush to the side. Don't worry about making the cut deep, so long as it is clear. Repeat this for the bottom cuts on each of the legs.
Now take the wood you're going to use for the stretcher (the bit that goes between the legs). Lay it across the legs the way it will be assembled. Line the bottom up with the line you have marked, and put a notch on the corner of the leg at the top of the stretcher. Do this for each of the legs.
Now extend the line across the leg, just like you did for the bottom line.
Extend the line down both sides of the leg using the square again. You really only need to take them half way.
Now set the length of your combination square to the depth of the stretcher cut. I do this by putting the fench against one face of the board, and sliding the rule until it is flush with the other face. Don't forget to tighten it down before you take it away from the wood or you'll be repeating this step.
Use the depth you just measured to mark the depth of the cut on the sides. I do it by marking that depth next to the lines I've extended down the sides, and then marking it in increments along the full width of the cut. Do this for each of the legs.
Now I use my chisel to deepen the lines I have marked. I cut straight down with the bevel towards the bit that I'm cutting out. You can do it by hand, but a light rap with a hammer or mallet is better. I then come back and using hand pressure only relieve the cut by cutting at an angle, from the side of the line that will be cut away towards the line. Do this very gently, and don't put your fingers anywhere ahead of the chisel. A chisel is an amazing tool for shortening fingers.
Now use your saw to cut out the sides of your dado, down to the depth of the cut. You shouldn't apply much force on the saw. Too much force on the saw will tend to cause troubles with the cut, and you'll have to shim it or clean it up with a chisel. This is going to take a little bit, and you'll have to be patient. But you'll be a lot better at cutting with a hand saw before you're done (I can now make these cuts fairly quickly).
Now use your chisel and a hammer or mallet to hog out the waste. I just start levering off layers of wood from the outer edge working down. I work in from each side, because otherwise I can blow out the wood on the opposite side. When you get near the bottom, starting sliding the chisel along the width of the cut instead of the hard chopping. This makes a smoother, more controlled cut.
This is a lot of work, but it will make a really strong joint and it's completely worth the effort.
If you're wanting to see some good information on using a hand saw and a chisel, there are a couple of blogs woth checking out. Rob Rosiaki of Logan Cabinette Shoppe and Chris Schwarz of Woodworking Magazine have lots of good tips and videos about working with hand tools. Like Ana, they do a great job of making the work that can be intimidating from the outside into something approachable that you can do if you try.
Dan K
Sat, 01/29/2011 - 11:14
If you have a circular saw you can use it tocut dadoes or half lap type joints. Layout the joint carefully and use a framing square to guide the saw when making the outer edge cuts. Then make several parallel cuts in the area to be notched, leaving about 1/4" between cuts. Then the majority of the waste can be broken out with a hammer and then the bottom of the cut can be cleaned up with a sharp chisel. Practice a few times on a scrap to get the hang of it.
cecek
Sun, 01/30/2011 - 09:48
Clay and Dan
Both posts were really great, thank you for all
the great information!
Cece
claydowling
Mon, 01/31/2011 - 05:11
I had in fact considered recommending Dan's technique, but I've had instances of the saw bucking when I've tried it in the past. That's really scary, so I thought I'd pass on it. I just built a workbench that used 4 of these joints on each leg, all cut using the method I described. Moderately strenuous, but if you pace yourself not at all difficult.
If the 4x4s you buy are of douglas fir (sometimes marked doug fir) it will be a little easier. It's slightly harder to cut than pine, but the straight grain makes the chiseling a lot easier. This applies for most methods.
Another point worth noting is on tools. If you start doing a lot of work with chisels (or even a little bit here and there), you're going to need to learn how to sharpen them. Especially the chisels you buy at the big box stores dull relatively quickly. There are a competing sects in the sharpening world, but the quickest way to get started is to google "Scary Sharp." It's essentially progressively finger grades of sandpaper glued to a sturdy flat surface (the original article recommends glass, but I use a polished granite tile).
If you discover that you like what you can do with chisels, it's worth buying a better set. My dad and I both have sets from Narex. You have to order them online, but we've both been happy with ours, and they stay sharper way longer than the chisels from the big box store.