Wishing Well

Difficulty

Starter Projects

Wishing Well made out of reclaimed pallets

•cut 10 1x8 boards 22" (side boards) any height you want is okay I choose this height for this project based on how high I wanted my well and how long of boards I had for the posts •cut 10 1x8 boards in half (roof boards) since it is scrap boards it is hard to say the length to use mine were 18" as long as they are even but for a rustic look it is okay that they hang over and are uneven at points (I also took and evened out the width of each board for the roof so they will sit better. I did not do any specific measurement I just evened out the first board to be straight and then used it as a template for the others) •cut 20 2x4 boards (bracing boards and assembling supports) 18* angle miter cuts at both ends, long end measuring the width of your smallest board (should be 8" but most boards are not a true 8" I went with 7 7/8 and there were a few I was still too long on seeing as how I am using reclaimed pallets the wear down on the wood played a part and the top of a board could be wider then the bottom also so if you don't want any to hang over go with 7 1/2" •cut about 15-20 1x8 scrap into strips (or buy metal brackets) this to attach each section to other Metal brackets would be the best route but if you want to stick with solely using scrap the spare 1x8 work just fine It may split if you are using screws especially since it's reclaimed wood, and it's already the ends deemed not good enough for the projects done •4 1x4s (posts) I choose not to cut these but a 45* miter cut can be applied in the top of all 4 for an alternate roof attachment • 2 •1x10s (roof attachment) these get attached in between the two side posts I used 2" hex screws used for decks, however a pneumatic nail gun could be used as well. I am always afraid that one of my girls is going to nail their hands with that so I choose to use the impact driver that has a little more control and slows them down. Personal preference that allows my children to do the projects with me! Also 2" screws were probably too long however we had two huge buckets laying around here so no need to buy new ones I would have probably used 1 1/4 had I gone and bought new ones but I am sure everyone knows enough to know this stuff I was also out of wood glue and would have used that. >I marked a line 4" done from the top and bottom of each board for the sides for each assembly board >from the back side I then predrilled two holes (I would usually use an actual drill and the correct size drill bit, however working with the girls the drill is too heavy for them and I have a very light impact driver that is small and easy for their smaller hands. So, I took a 3" screw and marked the spots for the screws and thus the reason for the back side pre drill. They put the screw in just to the point it went through and then backed it out. Not my favorite way but it worked to allow them to do this and any way to allow my girls to get involved is okay with me) >once all the holes were done we lined the precut boards up long side to side boards (here is where I would have used some wood glue and clamps but out of glue) one on the top one on the bottom > went to the next side board did the same thing making sure they lined up, and then attached the bracket over top to hold the two pieces together (bracket on top and bottom) this is where you can use the metal or the extra 1x8 scrap Again wood glue would come in handy but out!!! I also used extra scrap to build up spots that weren't even with the girls helping not all the supports were at the same heights (easy fix using the wood scraps, even with the metal brackets a wood scrap under would level it out) >continue around until all sides are attached and a ring is formed (Formula for cuts 180* divided by # of sides = * of angles) if you choose to go with a different number of sides then 10 And jut make sure the long side is the same as the width > attach one of the long side posts to each side across from each other at both the top and bottom >mark center of bottom of 1X10 roof support > attach to center post at center point > now attach other long side post to back of roof support and even with first side post (fastening at each of the top and bottom support spots) on both sides > roof lays 5 boards on either side and attach to supports (There are other ways to do this roof that I am going to play with today because I am just not sure about this It works but I am sure there is a better way!!!!!!)

Dimensions

Cut 10 boards (36" or desired width) I cut them at 22" tall for this project

Preparation

Shopping List

•reclaimed pallets I apologize for not knowing what to buy It is made from 1x8s (10@22", 10@18") 1x10s (2@36") 1x4s (4@36") 2x4s (20@ 77/8 ) I think I have these right and they are approximate measurements since they are reclaimed and not exact other then what I cut •21/2" screws (smaller could be used I am sure) •wood glue •clamps •measuring tape •brackets (if you choose metal) •protective gear (gloves, safety glasses ect) •miter saw •saws-all (if using pallets, it is the easiest and fastest way to disassemble them) •miter blade that can cut wood/metal (you will hit nails or one you don't care will get chewed up if you use pallets) •paint or finish (if you choose to cover it to protect the wood, I was told by the recycling company the pallet wood was insect treated and meant to withstand weather so it may be okay with out being finished, but I would not want to put work into something and not finish it with something) > I am sure I am missing something Sorry

Cut List

I think I did it all in the upper areas sorry

Cutting Instructions

Formula for angles 180* divided by number of sides= angle to cut Then take the width and that is the long side This will be your cut for any circle So for 10 sides it's 18* Width of 8" (actually 77/8) that is my long side This is my measurement for my 20 supports (2 for each side panel one top one bottom) Hope this makes it easy for anyone that wants 8 sides or 15 or however many you have to adjust to!!! Cutting the height is up to however tall you want your well base 22" seemed to be a good height for the boards I had 18" was the length I cut the roof boards to this gave a little hang over from the diameter of the well but not too much For the roof panels I did make sure they were all the same width I wanted no gaps (I wasn't going for water sealing or no leaks it was for appearances. The side panels however, I liked the gaps the different widths gave. I am using this as landscape and placing a flower pot in mine so I want to make sure water doesn't collect and settle in the base, personal preference Here is another option which I may do (girls were helping and this is the first plan I made myself) Cut 10 more 2x4s same size as the supports same angle (or however many/angle you used for the supports) Place them around the top of the well as a shelf (sorry for the after thought >when laying out the supports long side is always out, I am sure most of you know this but some may not so I thought I would add it and save someone the confusion) •any of the side posts or roof supports don't need cut However if you are going for a clean cut project instead of the rustic look you can always use a table saw/circular saw and adjust the widths to be the same >and of course if you aren't using pallets they will need cut to length!

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Finishing Instructions

Preparation Instructions

Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Project Type

Outdoor Projects

Room

Outdoor

Comments

Lu7997

Wed, 07/30/2014 - 06:40

Grumble

I realized after I posted that I should have done the instructions in a come rely different section

I am so sorry
This is my first project I have ever done with out plans

I will learn

I was so excited to share (Like a little kid lol)
Please forgive me lol
My girls and I had worked on this yesterday until dark and any mom trying to not only do a project from scratch but do it with a 9 year old and a 12 year old can hopefully understand Lol (at one point my nine year olds solution to one problem was pink glitter......lmao)

I love these mother daughter projects but I love them with prewritten plans more Lmao I do apologize for any and all confusion in my post

I promised the girls I would post this and I was as excited as they were we figured this out!!!!

Lisa Strickland

Mon, 11/03/2014 - 09:46

very cute

I thought it looks great. I also find it adorable that you have your girls working on it with you. I too am trying to get my daughter in to doing projects. She's 10 and I'm a newbie to this who DIY. Hope this will work out as great as your's did. Cross fingers we can complete a project. I wanted to start being more self-reliant and I want to teach her to do the same. Great project! Good Job Girls!