Modern Media Console with Metal Box Frame Base

diy media console reclaimed wood
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Free plans to build your own rustic modern media console.

Dimensions
dimensions for console table
Dimensions shown above

Preparation

Shopping List

1 sheet of 3/4" plywood (I just used AC plywood) ripped into three strips 15-3/4" wide x 8 feet long

1 - 1/4" plywood @ 52" 17-1/2"

24 feet of 3/4" x 3/4" square tubing

I set of hinges (I used this type)

Common Materials
3/4 inch finish nails
120 grit sandpaper
Cut List
  • 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 15-3/4" x 52"
  • 4 - 3/4" plywood @ 15-3/4" x 16"
  • 1 - 3/4" plywood @ 15-3/4" x 33-3/4"
  • 1 - 1/4" plywood @ 52" 17-1/2"
  • 2 - 3/4" plywood @ 15-3/4" x 16-3/4"

 

SQUARE METAL TUBING BASE (can also build base using 2x2s or hardwood 1x1 pieces)

  • 4 - 3/4" square tubing @ 6" long
  • 4 - 3/4" square tubing @ 14-1/4" long
  • 4 - 3/4" square tubing @ 50-1/2" long

 

SCRAP TUBING FOR HANDLES are 6" and 10" long

Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Drill
Table Saw
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Build the basic box frame for the project.  I recommend using a Kreg Jig on this project because there is no face frame to reinforce these joints.  Use 3/4" setting to drill pocket holes and attach with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.  Three pocket holes per joint are recommended for this width of board.

Step 2

Add shelves as desired, using pocket holes again.  Alternatively, you could use a shelf pin jig to create adjustable shelves (I did).

Step 3

Add the back.  Use glue and 3/4" brad nails or staples, secure to all fixed shelves too.

Step 4

Hinge doors on.  I used this type of hinge.  I ended up Kreg Jigging some 1x boards together to make my doors.

Step 5

Step 6

Attach to the underside of the cabinet with 1-1/4" screws (I just used a few of my pocket hole screws).

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.

Comments

milleall

Mon, 10/19/2015 - 11:58

I am so happy to see these plans!  It looks great in all finishes, but I think I like the dark stain the best.  It will sure be difficult to figure out what finish to put on mine.  

Pam the Goatherd

Mon, 10/19/2015 - 21:22

I've been planning to make this.  I don't have a welder but I figured I'd just make the bottom frame out of 1"x2"s and paint it with some of the metallic Rustoleum spray paint.  I built a pair of hutches for my kitchen a few years ago and used the hammered metal spray paint on the countertop part.  It turned out really well, so I think using the metallic paint on the wood frame would work equally well.