The best workbench you can build! This workbench features a miter saw stand, with roll away carts to hold all your tools and create work spaces. It's easy to customize, and the best part, it all rolls away when done!
Free step by step plans from Ana-White.com
This is one of my most favorite workbenches I've ever designed and built!
Miter Saw Stand
The base of this workbench is a miter saw stand -
But here's the big problem with a sliding miter saw: It needs 32" (or more depending on your saw) depth-wise to slide.
So what to do with the space under the workbenches, that need to be 32" deep? I knew 32" deep shelving would be a terrible idea, as stuff would just get lost back there (kitchen cabinets are 24" deep and that's about as deep as you want to go).
So instead of 32" deep shelving where stuff goes to die, I decided to put roll out carts that function as both storage and work surfaces.
And then when you are done working, they carts neatly tuck under the workbench, saving space in the garage and putting everything away
After designing, tweaking, redesiging, stressing over how to optimize materials to help you save money when building, and then more tweaking .... we built this!
It may look complicated, but I promise, this one is easy. It is big, but it is not difficult to build, and you'll be amazed at how fast it comes together.
Customizing Tool Storage and the Carts
Once you have that perfect workbench built, it's time to start customizing it for your needs. There's a spot for a vacuum under the circular saw, so you can manage your sawdust easier.
Then on one of the carts we cut out part of the top and attached a bench tool to this. We did this for all the bench tools that needed a home.
So when you need a bench tool - like this Kreg Jig - all you have to do is slide it into the cut out, use it, and then store it. The Kreg Jig piece is lightweight, so it stores upside down in the space.
How cool is that?
On the side of that cart, we added a clamp bar, so clamps are within easy reach, but always have a home to go back to.
On the second cart, we customized it to hold a table saw. When not in use, it just is a flat surface, but when in use, the tablesaw deck is significantly larger and easier to work with. The cut out area helps to contain the sawdust, and you have a nice place to store your table saw.
The second cart also functions as an outfeed table for your tablesaw. This is especially handy when using the tablesaw by yourself.
We are so very proud of how this workbench turned out. It is the result of many hours of consideration of how a home woodworking workshop is used, balanced with trying to minimize complexity and materials cost. I wanted this project to be accessible to a new woodworker, but not be something they would outgrow as their skills increased.
We hope you love it as much as we do.
Workbench with Roll Away Carts and Miter Saw Stand Plans
Preparation
• 4 Sheets of 3/4” plywood
• 2 sheets of 1/4" plywood
• 8 – 3” casters with brakes
• 3/4” screws for attaching caster wheels
• 11 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
• 8 – 1x2 @ 8 feet long
• 3” self tapping wood screws
• 2” and 1-1/4” 18 gauge staples
• 4 handles for carts
Workbench Cut List
• 6 – 2x4 @ 49”
• 4 – 2x4 @ 28”
• 8 – 2x4 @ 39-1/2”
• 2 – 1/4” plywood @ 39-1/2” x 31” (see plywood cutting diagrams)
• 2 – 3/4” plywood @ 52-1/4” x 31” (see plywood cutting diagrams)
• 4 – 2x4 @ 29-1/2”
• 2 – 2x4 @ width of saw (shown at 24”)
• 2 – 3/4” plywood @ width of saw x 31” (shown at 24”)
Cart Cut List
• 2 –3/4” plywood @ 48” x 30” (see plywood cutting diagrams)
• 4 – 3/4” plywood @ 8-1/4” x 30” (cut from scraps, see plywood cutting diagrams)
• 24 – 1x2 @ 28”
• 8 – 3/4” plywood @ 8-1/4” x 28” (cut from scraps, see plywood cutting diagrams)
• 4 – 1/4” plywood @ 30” x 28-3/4”
• 4 – 3/4” plywood @ 48” x 29-1/2” (see plywood cutting diagrams)
Suggested Plywood Layouts for the Cuts
Instructions
Step 1
Workbench Step 1: Build Workbench Frames
Attach using 3” wood screws and glue at corners. Check for square and adjust as needed.
Step 2
Workbench Step 2: Legs
Attach legs to frame with four 3” screws and glue. Check to make sure legs are installed square with the frame.
Step 3
Workbench Step 3: Bottom Support
Attach bottom support to back legs of bench, 4” from bottom of legs. Use 3” wood screws and glue.
Step 4
Workbench Step 4: Plywood Side
Use glue and 1-1/4” staples to attach ¼” plywood to side of workbench. Remember to plywood the outsides of the bench as shown in below diagram:
Step 5
Workbench Step 5: Workbench Top
Attach workbench top to frame with 2” staples and wood glue.
Step 6
Miter Saw Shelf Step 1: Cleats
Measure the height of your miter saw deck. Add 3/4” to this measurement. Attach top cleats to sides of workbenches this measurement down from top of workbench. Cleats are flush to back, 1-1/2” less on front side. Use 3” screws.
Attach bottom shelf cleats with 4” space underneath.
Step 7
Miter Saw Shelf Step 2: Front Trim
Attach front trim to workbench legs and cleats with 3” screws.
Step 8
Miter Saw Shelf Step 3: Shelving
Place plywood shelving on cleats and attach with 1-1/4” staples and glue
Step 9
Cart Step 1: Caster Wheel Height
Measure the overall height of your caster wheels. Maximum clearance under workbench is 36” but some space should be left to allow cart to slide in. Cut list as shown is for casters with 3-3/4” clearance – adjust your cuts if your caster wheels are different heights.
Also double check the final location of your workbench for sloping garage floors and give extra room if in doubt.
Step 10
Cart Step 2: Cart Frame
Use 2” screws to attach cart front to cart shelf end with 1x2s. Build two of the cart frames.
Step 11
Cart Step 3: Shelves
Attach remaining 1x2s to shelves with 1-1/4” staples from underside. Then attach shelves inside cart frames with 2” screws or staples and glue.
TIP: Cut two 9” blocks of wood and use as spacers when placing shelves.
NOTE: Shelves can be placed at any height – customize to fit your needs and toolset.
Step 12
Cart Step 4: Shelf Backs
Attach backs to shelves with 1-1/4” staples and glue.
Step 13
Cart Step 5: Top and Bottom
Attach top and bottom to cart frame with 2” staples and glue
Step 14
Cart Step 6: Caster Wheels
Install caster wheels on bottom of carts with ¾” screws.
Step 15
Step 1: Benchtop Cutout
Use a circular saw or jigsaw to carefully cut out the top of the workbench cart, following back of shelves and cutting to depth needed for your bench top tools. Make sure you leave about 2” extra for adding the cleat in step 3.
Step 16
Step 2: Bench Top Cleats
Cut 1x2 cleats 1-1/2” less than the opening depth. Screw to the insides of the workbench cart, so the 1x2 top is flush with the bottom edge of the plywood workbench top.
Step 17
Step 3: Benchtop Tool Shelf
Attach a 1x2 cleat flat to 3/4” thick plywood cut to match the opening of the benchtop. Test fit and adjust if necessary.
Step 18
Step 4: Bench Top Tool
Attach Bench top tool to the removeable tabletop piece as recommended by the tool’s guide. Only lighter tools should be hung upside down. Additional cleats can be added inside cart for storing more benchtop tools.
Step 19
Step 5: Tablesaw Modification
Repeat steps as directed for benchtop tools, except custom cut tabletop out to fit your tablesaw, leaving enough room for the tablesaw fence, guides and accessories to freely move. Use cleats and ¾” plywood to create a shelf for the tablesaw. When installation is complete, the tablesaw deck should be slightly higher than the tabletop itself. Secure tabletop to shelf.
Comments
brickton
Wed, 02/17/2016 - 16:19
Amazing!
I'm in the midst of trying to figure out what I want to do with my sliding miter saw and this looks amazing. I love the utility of having the outfeed section for the tablesaw. This is so great!
In reply to Amazing! by brickton
Ana White
Thu, 02/18/2016 - 09:51
Thank you so much! Glad you
Thank you so much! Glad you liked it. It is so nice to have a sliding miter saw built into the bench. So hard to use a small tablesaw without an outfeed table by yourself too. Share if you build, would love to see how you mod yours out!
chadk
Thu, 02/18/2016 - 15:49
Super Cool!
What's the estimated cost on this one?
chadk
Thu, 02/18/2016 - 15:50
Super Cool!
What's the estimated cost on this one?
Ana White Admin
Thu, 02/18/2016 - 17:24
cost
$250 to $400
Heather Theis
Fri, 02/19/2016 - 08:42
this project!!!
I almost voted for the shanty girls the other day- SO GLAD the Ryobi site hates me!!! lol! Figured it out for you though! This is exacty what I've been looking for! I've been using an unfinished island ( x sides of courst), an old dresser I found on a facebook garage sale site and the two drawer sides to an old desk to do exactly what you did here. It and it doesn't work so hot. Looks like I'm going to be flipping my current pieces to pay for this! lol.
boice12
Wed, 03/02/2016 - 06:57
Plywood type
This may seem like a silly question. But I am just diving in to the world of wood working and just had a question regarding the type of plywood you typically use? What type should I get for this project and where would you recommend getting it. I grew up in North Pole and Eagle River down by Anchorage....so fellow Alaskan here. :-)
vaddr3
Tue, 06/23/2020 - 06:57
I would also like to know. …
I would also like to know. Thank you
exit2studios
Thu, 03/17/2016 - 14:38
If I'm reading the plans
If I'm reading the plans correctly, there is 3/4" clearance for the carts with the casters you used? I ask because my casters are slightly larger (4-1/8" clearance) and I would prefer to have less gap so hoping I can leave the measurements as stated. The pictures don't look like there is that much leeway :-)
Great design, btw. I signed up just so I could vote for you!
exit2studios
Thu, 03/17/2016 - 14:39
Very Cool!
If I'm reading the plans correctly, there is 3/4" clearance for the carts with the casters you used? I ask because my casters are slightly larger (4-1/8" clearance) and I would prefer to have less gap so hoping I can leave the measurements as stated. The pictures don't look like there is that much leeway :-)
Great design, btw. I signed up just so I could vote for you!