21" DIY Kitchen base cabinet plans with full overlay door - Momplex White kitchen cabients.
3/4" plywood ripped into strips 22 1/4" long (for sides and shelves)
3/4" plywood scrap from ripping sides and shelves (for top supports)
3/4" plywood ripped into strips 5" long (for base supports - use cheaper plywood here)
1x2s for face frames
1/4" plywood (for backs)
1-1/4" pocket hole screws
3/4" finish nails
edge banding for shelves
2 - 3/4" plywood @ 22 1/4" x 34 1/2" (side panels)
1 - 3/4" plywood @ 22 1/4" x 19" (bottom shelf)
2 - 3/4" plywood @ 5" x 19" (bottom supports)
2 - 3/4" plywood @ 3 1/2" (can vary in rip width) x 19" (top supports)
1 - 1/4" plywood @ 32" x 20 1/2" (back)
2 - 1x2 @ 27"
2 - 1x2 @ 21"
1 - 1x2 @ 18"
3/4" plywood @ 22" x 18 3/4" (measure and adjust to fit shelf pins)
DOOR/DRAWER FACE for FULL OVERLAY (1-1/4")
5 1/2" x 20 1/2" (drawer face)
22-1/2" x 20-1/2" (door)
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
We cut our top supports from the leftover scrap from ripping plywood down to the side/shelf width (22-1/4"). This ended up being about 3-1/2" wide. Depending on the type of drawer slides you are using (we used Metabox drawer slides that mount to the top of the drawer so not a problem for us) you may wish to place extra support for mounting the drawer slides to the back or a larger back piece.
We built our face frames seperately on a clean table, clamping each joint. Then we attached the face frame (after painting it) to the front of the cabinet through the pocket holes drilled in the outsides of the sides and the top.
We did have to glue and nail the bottom of the face frame, as it is too tight to fit a drill in there to attach at the base.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.