4x4 Truss Beam Table

Submitted by Ana White on Thu, 09/13/2018 - 10:03
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Build the truss beam farmhouse table! Free step by step plans from Ana-White.com

ana white truss beam table farm style

This beautiful solid wood table is sturdy and substantial.  Built using off the shelf lumber, we love the truss beam detailing and angled legs.  It's a beautiful table that will add that rustic look to your dining room.

We also have available the matching Truss beam bench plans

farm table benches

My friend Whitney from Shanty2Chic loved our Providence Table, but wanted a bigger version for indoor use, built using real 4x4 beams.

Here's from Whitney:

"Oh how I LOVE a great DIY dining table.  Restoration Hardware wants $3000 for theirs, and I built mine for around $100 in wood.  This table is big and beautiful, and I can't wait to serve my entire family at it!"

There's a ton of different ways this table could have been put together, but Whitney choose to use a Kreg Jig HD.  Because the 4x4 is so big, it won't fit in the jig, so Whitney's solution was to use a clamp.  

Whitney has provided lots more details on how she built this table and lots more pictures right here - please take a second to stop over and check it out!

And of course, the plans follow!


XO Ana

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Truss Beam Table

truss beam table dimensions
Dimensions shown above


Shopping List

5 - 4x4 @ 8 feet long

2 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long or stud length

2 - 2x10 @ 12 feet long (tabletop boards - can be cut in half at store for easier transport)

1 - 2x10 @ 8 feet long (cut breadboards out of this board - can also use a 2x8 or 2x12)

Whitney used 2 1/2" Kreg HD Screws and a Kreg HD to build this table

You'll also need 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to put the tabletop together and to attach the tabletop to the aprons

Cut List

2 - 4x4 @ 35"

4 - 4x4 @ 25 3/8" (both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, long point to short point, ends ARE parallel)

2 - 4x4 @ 28 1/4" (both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, long point to long point, ends are NOT parallel)

2 - 4x4 @ 65"

2 - 4x4 @ 26 1/8" (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, long point to long point, ends ARE parallel)

2 - 2x4 @ 65"

4 - 2x10 @ 68 1/2" (tabletop boards)

2 - 2x10 @ approx 37" (cut breadboard ends to fit)

Tape Measure
Speed Square
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Kreg Jig
Miter Saw
Power Sander
General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!


Step 1

Build two of the leg sets out of the 4x4s. Once you get one built, built the other on top of it so they match perfectly.

Step 2

Attach the two legs together with the center beams.

Step 3

Position the cross supports inside the table and attach to the top and bottom beams.

Step 4

Add the 2x4 aprons underneath for added support.

NOTE: We kept these flat to keep the look the Shanty girls were after, but to make this table stronger (especially if you were modifying the table to be longer) I recommend attaching the 2x4s vertically instead of flat. If you go this route, make sure you predrill 1 1/2" pocket holes facing upward in the aprons to attach the tabletop in the next step.

Step 5

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.



Sat, 10/15/2016 - 23:34

I totally love this rustic table. Will make a great addition to our dining room! Thank you for the plans!


Thu, 11/03/2016 - 22:51

The breadboard ends are supposed to be more than an asthetic detail - in practice they should allow the table top to expand/contract/move without cracking. This is normally done using more complex joinery, gluing and screwing the ends most likely defeats this entirely since the entire top would be held rigid.

Romptimus Prime

Tue, 01/10/2017 - 16:36

I just built this table, and it depends on how you do your screws.  I used the Kreg jig to make a pattern on the table top that gives it a bit of dress up.  I tend to over-engineer things, so with my table top alone, I'd say I used about 60 screws.  I didn't bother with the 2 x 4s under the table, and I also left off the 45 degree pieces off the center truss... It is more than sturdy enough without all that.




Tue, 01/10/2017 - 06:24

I love this table and plan on starting it this weekend. If I want to get some extra support for the breadboards what would you suggest? Also, is there plenty of room to put chairs on the ends or should the breadboards be extended?

Thank you in advance for any replys.

Romptimus Prime

Tue, 01/10/2017 - 16:40

I used all 2 x 10s and there was no need to extend the breadboards.  I'm a big guy (6'3") and with the way the trusses are designed, my knees fit with no problem without extending them.  I ran two screws top and bottom into the breadboards from each of the lengthwise 2 x 10s, and as long as no one tried to push themselves up using the table, they are rock solid.  I had debated reinforcing them with bolts from underneath, but with the way I lined up the 4x4s underneath, I had enough support.  I also used true 4 x 4 (eastern white pine), not 4 x 4s from the box store that actually measure 3.5 x 3.5".  


Best advice I can give anyone doing this table:  Spend the extra money and go to a real lumber yard and get nice wood.  It will save you time, effort and money in the long run when you're not stuck fixing warps, twists, cracks, etc.  


Wed, 02/22/2017 - 20:59

Awesome plans! These plans just specify to "build" the leg sets but I've seen a lot of videos where people use 6 inch torque screws to attach the legs, and the kreg jig like the Shanty girls did. I would love to know the measurement of how far to position the jig from the end of the work piece as well as what setting to use for the depth collar for the 4 inch material? No matter where I look I can't seem to find either of these settings for 4 inch material. Should I also use 2 1/2 inch pocket hole screws for the 4 inch material as well? Would help me out a ton! Thanks a bunch =)

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