Community Brag Posts

I really loved the look of the benches for this table, so decided to change the top of the table to have a side slat. We painted it to go with our porch.

This is for my daughter’s 3rd birthday. I decopaged the walls and floor with patterned paper before assembling. I thought it would be easier.

I also didn’t bother with the middle ‘front’ door. The dollhouse in the example photos look beautiful from the outside, but kids don’t really play with the outside of the houses. So I made the windows a little bit bigger.

The windows and doors both looked terrible. My first time using a jigsaw was not a success. So I used tiny dowels for the trim around the door and craft sticks on the inside.

The last thing I need to do is put some lights in it. I ordered some fairy lights on amazon. I plan to use another dowel that I’m hoping I can wrap with the fairy lights and then wedge in the back on the ‘ceiling’ on the first floor and then Velcro the switch to the side of the house. It won’t look professional or anything, but being able to turn the lights on and off will be very fun.

Casey

I adjusted the depth of the bench to accomodate a bath vanity top with sink (from the Habitat reStore). The width was adjusted to allow for 2 feet of workspace to the left of the sink. The overall height was adjusted to my wife's height. The front legs were made longer than the rear to account for the slope of the yard location.

A great weekend project...the "love swing"! I used the plan from Ana for the swing seat and added two arm rests from left over 1x6, rounded them off and sanded.

I cobbled together an A-frame to hang everything, made from five 8 foot 4x4s and two 8 foot 2x6s laminated together for the stretcher. Assembled with 1/2" galvanized carriage bolts and hung with 1/4" chain.

Definitely going to want a good miter saw for the A-Frame angles (the top ones are a bit tricky to get everything lined up)

Love it! Thanks for another great plan Ana..and of course..Shanty2Chic!

Used Ana's plans to build my floor to ceiling shiplap fireplace. Excellent guide made it easy.

The need for a proper workbench in my garage/shop is a must, but. So is space! I already have a fold down workbench I’ve made with ¾ inch pipe & a door, but. I just need something that can handle all my tools. So, I stumbled upon these plans from the Family Handyman & couldn’t find a reason why this wouldn’t work in my shop. It has room for storage, can easily accommodate my tools & most importantly fold up to store. Easy to build too! Make sure you read all the plans first as some of the materials could be pricey, but well worth it. Technically it’s taken 2 months to build this bench, as I operate on a firefighter/teacher’s budget & during the holiday season no doubt. I ordered all the shelf standards & brackets through Amazon, $210.00 for those alone, but they hold so much weight to support your tools I figure it’s worth it. The rest materials (wood, screws) were purchased at Home Depot for around $150.00. The plans called for ¾ inch ply & it was $45.00 per sheet. However they did have a smaller thickness for $22.00 per sheet & was only a 1/32 inch thinner. I plan on topping all my surfaces with some ¼ inch tempered hardboard later on so I knew it would work. That also left me adjusting my screw size to mount my brackets. Due to the reduction in thickness of the plywood all my #8-1 inch screws needed to be adjusted to ¾ inch so to not screw through the ply. I also hit the molding isle to nab some pieces to use as furring strips to use under the shelves before attaching the brackets. This way I can sand each strip to match before mounting to make sure it lined up flat with the center top. One more thing; where it says “drill 1/8 inch hole in brackets make sure you use 1/8 inch pop rivets. I barrowed a pop rivet gun & was handed some rivets as well. Popped two & they had to be trashed because the rivet size turned out to be 5/32. So I stepped up in drill bit size & it all worked out. As I said, I’ll be topping it with some ¼ inch hardboard. I also plan to run it’s own electrical with an outlet on each post. I hope you all enjoy & this can help!

I saw many different sliding door projects online, so I did my own spin on one. I was able to get several old pallets for free (pine and oak). I went to Lowes and bought a few 2x3s which I used as the frame, and the track hardware which was only $13! Most doors I see are mounted from the wall, but since I have 7' ceilings downstairs I mounted mine from the ceiling. This project only took about 4 hours total and cost about $40 when you figure in costs for screws, stain, etc. The most difficult part was taking apart the pallets. Using a reciprocating saw with a 12'' demolition blade is the best way to take them apart. Thanks for the idea Ana.

I have been looking for ways to use the live edge walnut from our property. I adapted Ana's side table plans to make several tables.
I used select 2x2 pine and painted the legs bronze to coordinate with our windows.

I built this closet system for our basement gym as a Christmas present to my boyfriend.  He loved it!

I stained all of the boards before building as suggested in the plan - it definitely saved a lot of time and stress.  After cutting and staining, and I brought all of the pieces downstairs to build.  

The actual building went relatively quickly, but without perfectly straight boards, the shelves themselves were a little tricky.  I also just nailed the shelf boards down with wood glue rather than screwing them in to save time - it's still sturdy and secure.

The length of the closet is about 8 feet long, so the middle shelf is about 1 foot and the two rod shelves are about 3.5 feet long.

Thank you so much for the plans Anna.  My two year old absolutely loved this Christmas present.  I used drains for the stove tops and added a wire rack to the stove and tiled the backsplash.    

I desperately needed some storage in my workroom and finally decided to make this! It's from the 6 Cube Bookshelf plan and it works perfectly in this space I've got in my workroom.
I would've rather used real wood throughout, but this is my first proper project and to keep the cost down I used MDF for the main boards (all cut to size by my local B&Q, yay!) and planed whitewood 1x2s.
I definitely learnt a lot on this project, but most of the mistakes are hidden under the paint :-) and in the end I'm really pleased.
I wanted an off-white finish and, after a baffling time in the paint aisle, chose a very pale grey, it sits in the room perfectly! I'm hoping to make some fabric boxes for it, but not sure what colours I want yet.
Now for the next project...

I used the chicken shed plans to create the coop, with a modification to include two nesting boxes, one on each side.

I slightly modified the nesting boxes, using a U shaped frame and added hinges for the front to swing down and the pine shavings to be swept out.

For the siding, we found it easiest to do the tack and trace method. We tacked each full sheet of siding in place and traced the cuts for the window, roof line, doors, and nesting boxes. We then took them down, darkened the lines, cut 'em, and re-hung them. It made it a million times easier, IMHO.

For the inside, I designed several roosting bars with poop platforms. The water is a gravity fed chicken nipple/pvc setup, which I found online.

The food stations, also gravity fed, are (new) sewer pipes with wye connectors.

I used the roof and siding scraps to make shelves for storage inside.

By sourcing reclaimed materials, I built the coop, run, interior, feeding stations (5), and waterer for $550. I only bought 27 pieces of new lumber (15 2x4's and the 12 8 foot long 1x3's)

Even the paint was free! (We have a drop and swap at the haz mat recycling center run by the county. We have gotten 100's of dollars of free paint, stain, and varnish there. I even used a can of free spar varnish to seal the inside of the coop)

There are still a few pieces of trim to be cut and painted, but the girls are inside eating, drinking, and merry!

I did find that at the Home Depot, if you buy chicken wire, it costs way more then 150 feet x 36 inch "stucco netting". The stucco netting was $54 for 150 feet, and chicken wire is $76 for the same amount. It is the exact same wire.

I built the run out of resourced 1x2 furring strips. They were a pain to work with, very prone to breaking when not supported, but with the entire run costing $25 for wood and $54 (with half a roll left over) for chicken wire, I can handle some extra time and effort.

If anyone has any questions for me, feel free to contact me! I'd love to help!