Community Brag Posts

Will be making MANY more of these, so easy and a fun gift! This one was for my niece.

I wanted to make chairs for a vanity that I made for my 5 and 3 year old girls. After I finished the chairs I decided not to attach the back and upholster the seats instead. They love them and so do I!! I measured each cut multiple times and took my time. I think that helped me tremendously because it all came together very easily!

Thank you Ana White!!

I was inspired by DIY Pete's Double bench seat but wanted more of the traditional adirondack look, so I kind of combined 3 plans together to get this! For my first attempt at these chairs with a few of my own tweaks I think it turned out pretty darn well. Changing the legs to extend out the back and curve out the front posed small challenge and then mounting the chair backs at a comfortable angle. There are some imperfections that probably only I would notice but I can correct it for next time. This photo was taken just after staining when I noticed that I missed sanding some wood filler on the front of the seat. Building these chairs only took about 6.5 hours before the finishing process but the next time would go faster. I am currently in the process of adding a protective varnish to give it a semi-gloss finish. All together it cost me under $100 CDN or $80 USD.

Memorial Box

My father gave us a whole mess of reclaimed barnwood that a neighbor had given to him, and I knew just what to do with it! My husband had an old cooler that would be the perfect size to create a rustic cooler case from. We built a frame out of 2x2's, faced it with the old wood (which looked like old cedar fence pickets) and popped the cooler inside. I've got a whole step-by-step on my blog. Love the way this turned out! We used an antler shed to make the lid handle, and bought some great rustic looking handles for the sides, as well as an old rustic bottle opener. Can't wait to see it in action!

I made this for my 2 young daughters. They love it.

I loved this from Ana's site so much we tacked one. Please note I glued, screwed and dowel ed the holes. I hate kreg jigs. We also made ours taller to add an extra shelf.

I followed Ana's Fancy X Farmhouse Table to build my base, but switched her tabletop out for a split herribone design.  The tutorial for the tabletop is on the blog! 

I liked the apothecary plans and loved the look. My wife really liked it and needed somewhere for our daughter to keep her toys. For our anniversary I told her I would redesign it and make it as she liked. This is what we came up with and I think it turned out great. We used full overlay door to prevent the visible lines on the original and are really happy with the results.

We were replacing the floors in our house so we decided to build a closet mud room. We used the plans for the smiling mudroom and altered them slightly. We didn't end up building the partitions because the left and right seats would have been too closed in. We installed bead board on the back wall and used moulding on the shelf and bench. The only hard part was that we had to actually assemble the shelves and bench in the closet because they wouldn't have fit in once built! The Kreg Jig was extremely helpful and well worth the purchase.

this was the second table built using Anna's fancy x plan. The first used regular 2x6 pine boards for the top and was given to my son for a housewarming gift. This second I built for my wife and changed up the top by using 1x6 pecan we had milled and then I planed down myself. The outer edges were left with a live edge to give it more rustic character. I used slotted "L" shaped metal about 6" long to secure the top of the table to the supports underneath, to allow for any expansion in the boards. I recently made a new kitchen island to match.

The Breakfast Nook is a small space with doors on either side.  The Bar-Stools are a little bit "higher than normal" and they have an obtrusive arm.  Very comfortable for sitting; but, cannot have an apron on a table or bar.  Needed room for 2 stools on each side.

To meet all these requirements, end up with a table that's long-ish, narrow, and tall.  Desired dimensions:  58 L x 28 W x 36.25 H.

Problems:  (1) worried about it being "wobbly" (tall & could not have an apron on the length); (2) needed to fit those bar-stools between the legs.

Solution:  I "merged" the plans for the Farmhouse Table with elements of the Truss Beam table for structural integrity.

Top is typical:  used pocket-hole jig / screws (Kreg) to join three 2 x 10's.  Final Width:  27.75".  Cut even with straight-edge and framing saw (used a 60 T Fine-finish blade - nice!).

Set the end stretchers into the legs; attached with brown-colored deck screws.  Attached length-wise stretchers to the end stretchers with deck screws.  Could have used pocket-holes; but, this way, it's symmetrical and everything matches.

Added 45 degree supports for stabililty - used combination of pocket-holes and deck screws.

Base is sized so that top has a 1.5" overhang all-round.  

Attached the top to the base with pocket-holes / screws - to top end stretchers and legs, and top length-wise stretcher.

Modern Farmhouse Dining Room Table (with pocket hole) and 2x4 chairs with plans reposted from morelikehome.net.

Surfed the site for the right plans and dove right in. Thank you for the inspiration all!

My brother and I built this table in about 4 hours over two days (finishing took longer) shortly after I purchased my first house. We needed a dining room table, and everything was super-expensive that we liked, so I luckily came across Ana's site and found this bad boy. I had never built anything in my life, but my brother had a little woodworking experience and, very importantly, some tools, so I ordered the legs from Osbourne Wood, got the rest from Home Depot and got building! We've gotten so many compliments on it. Thanks, Ana!

This table was fun to build, but took me a looonng time. Things I learned doing this project: First, when the pros tell you something can be put together in a few hours, they do not mean for mere mortals. Second, good staining really requires you to know your wood. I had several pine boards with a very pink undertone that made it impossible to get the color I wanted. I had to restain this twice. Third, this console table can support at least 130 pounds! 

Inspiration for this project came from the original Restoration Hardware table's price, which was way out of our budget. We found the plans on this site, and then the brag post from http://tommyandellie.com/?p=2582, which convinced me to give it a try when we moved to our new house.
I pulled some ideas and techniques from a couple of different areas - one was the idea from American Woodworker to use a straight-edge and a router to joint the edges of adjacent boards so they match perfectly, or as close to perfect as possible (see one of the pictures). After a few false starts it worked out very well.
One other big change was to use 4x4 pieces for the legs and cross-braces - especially on the long cross-brace. With two kids (6 and 3) and a third on the way, I knew they would want to crawl under the table to play, and sit on the beams - and I was afraid a 2x4 wouldn't hold up to their weights. I've VERY happy with the result - that base is not moving or flexing at all.
Finally, I learned a TON about what NOT to do! Apparently after doing the dry fit and having everything fit well, you should not sand the parts of the boards that fit together or suddenly they will be loose! Also, wiping off the stain after the suggested amount of time IS a good idea, after all! Finally, we ended up using pine boards with fir 4x4's, and I wish we had used all fir as I think the grain pattern was nicer.
All in all, though, it was a great experience and I can't wait to tackle another project!