Clubhouse Bed

Submitted by Ana White on Tue, 05/22/2012 - 10:22
Difficulty
Intermediate
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Build a clubhouse bed! Free plans from ana-white.com

Do NOT be like me.

Last winter, stuck inside for months and months while we waited for the sun to return to Alaska, Grace and I were really missing her original playhouse bed.

Now that I blog, our spare bedroom has turned into my office slash room of shame and the only place we have for guests to sleep is Grace's bed.  A couple of years ago we decided NOT to force our guests to sleep up in Grace's playhouse bed and replaced it with the Hailey storage bed.

All has been good, and it's great having somewhere for guests to stay.

But then last winter, Grace saw the Eli Fort Bed in Pottery Barn Kid's catalog and asked if we could build it for her.

I drew the plans up.

And they sat on my computer for months.  

And months.

When my dear friend Jaime from That's My Letter wrote me saying it was her Buddy Boy's turn to get a new bed and, I knew Jaime would get the bed done and posted and shared.

We worked on refining the plans, and you will thank Jaime when you build this bed for her brilliant suggestion to sister up 2x4 legs for added strength.  This also allows for the bed to be assembled in easy pieces.

One week later, the clubhouse bed is done.

Be like Jaime.

DIY this bed today.

Your kids are growing every day, and one sad sad day, they won't want a clubhouse bed anymore  :(

Well, if I haven't lost you already - no offense taken - Jaime really built an amazing bed! - I have one request: Please stop over and read all the details from Jaime on how she built this bed.

Jaime added a fort area underneath.  She sewed those cute curtains!  You can check out the details here.

And she made this surfboard sign too!  Check out her tutorial here.

And she added window grids that hinge open!  You can get the instructions on making these window grids here.

So PIN THIS project right now to your DIY board and make it happen!

And of course the plans follow!  Thank you Jaime!

Dimensions

Preparation

Shopping List

2 – 2x2 @ 8 feet long
4 – 1x3 @ 8 feet long
8 – 2x4 @ 8 feet long
5 – 1x4 @ 8 feet long
2 - 1x2 @ 8 feet long
15 – 1x6 @ 8 feet long
1 ¼ and 2 ½ PH screws
1 1/4 finish nails
Wood glue
3” screws or bolts for assembly
2” screws for slats
Slats (7 – 1x3 @ 8 feet long)

NOTE: Jaime recommends the following changes to the shopping list because her 1x6 board ran a little wide on the front and she wanted gaps between the wood slats.

- add 2 - 1x5 @ 8'
- decrease 1x6 quantity to 14

Common Materials
Cut List

NOTE: This plan assumes your 1x6 boards are less than 5 1/2" wide. Jaime found that she needed to substitute two of the 1x6 boards on front and back for 1x5 boards to create gaps between the wood slats.

SIDE WALLS (BUILD 2)
4 – 2x2 @ 36”
14 – 1x3 @ 25 ½”
4 – 2x4 @ 68” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
4 – 2x4 @ 17” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, NOT parallel)
2 – 1x4 @ 43 ½”

BACK WALL
2 – 2x4 @ 68” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 37 1/4” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x5 (Jaime recommends using the 1x5s here instead of 1x6) @ 40 3/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 43 1/2” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 46 3/4” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 49 7/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 53 1/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
1 – 1x6 @ 54 1/2” (top end cut to dogeared point 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
1 – 1x4 @ 78”
2 – 1x4 @ 49” (one end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
1 – 1x2 @ 71”(slat rail ledge)
2 – 2x4 @ 12” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel)

FRONT WALL
2 – 2x4 @ 68” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 37 1/4” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 40 3/8” (Jaime recommends swapping these out for the 1x5 boards) (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 13 7/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 17 1/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
4 – 1x6 @ 17 5/8” (under windows)
2 – 1x6 @ 49 7/8” (top end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
2 – 1x6 @ 16” (doorway)
1 – 1x4 @ 78”
2 – 1x4 @ 49” (one end cut at 30 degrees off square, long point measurement)
4 – 1x2 @ 13” (window trim - recommend cutting to fit)
1 – 1x2 @ 71” (slat rail ledge)
2 – 2x4 @ 12” (both ends cut at 45 degrees off square, ends NOT parallel)
- add 2 - 1x2 @ 14.5" (lower window trim interior - add to inside of windows)

LADDER
2 – 1x6 @ 38” (both ends cut at 15 degrees off square, ends are parallel)
3 – 1x6 @ 14 ½”
1 – 1x4 @ 14 ½”

SLATS
Recommend cutting 1x3 @ 40 1/2” long

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Build the walls with 3/4" PHs and 1 1/4" PH screws. Use scrap 1x3 to help with spacing. Fill upper holes with either PH plugs or wood filler.

Step 2

Now add the legs.

Step 3

And then add the cross supports. Jaime used 2 1/2" PH screws through 1 1/2" PHs to attach.

Step 4

And the trim to the base.

NOTE: Attach 34” up NOT 34 ¼”

Step 5

Step 6

Attach top and bottom trim.

Step 7

This is for the slat system. You can use a 2x2 here too.

Step 8

And the cross supports.

Step 9

Lay out your front wall as you did the back wall.

Step 10

And add the trim.

Step 11

I'd cut the window trim a little long here.

NOTES FROM JAIME:
screw on front trim from inside then screw added interior window trim from inside from strength (my kids will definitely lean on this sill and without any side support in the slats I needed to add the extra longer interior trim piece).
- I also added a short 1x2 @ 4" piece across the top point on the interior to hold the joint where the angled trim pieces meet, not to mention it provides a sturdy hook for decor.

Step 12

And the bottom supports and cross supports.

Step 13

Now move the pieces into the room. For the large walls, try going in upside down, and getting one leg through at a time.

NOTES FROM JAIME: I used 3/8" lag bolts @ 3 1/2" in 3 spots on each leg

Step 14

Add the slats or bunkie board or box spring.

Step 15

And then build your ladder and attach.

NOTES FROM JAIME: gap between rungs is 8", attached with 2 - 3/8" carriage bolts @ 3"

Step 16

For the window grid tutorial and lots other tips and construction photos please read Jaime's build post here.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Help Improve This Plan

We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.

Comments

afrozdad

Wed, 02/19/2014 - 19:32

In Step 6, the width of the bed is shown as 78 inches on the outside including legs. In the next step, step 7, the width of the bed is shown as 71 inches on the inside excluding legs. Given that the legs are made of 2x4s, this doesn't add up. Either the inner width should be 70" (78 - 4 - 4) or the outer width should be 79" (71 + 4 + 4). Which one is it?

StewartTX

Sat, 03/08/2014 - 14:59

We decided to build this a bit bigger and taller. I will caution you to be careful as we came inches to not making it through our doorways. We expanded the depth 15" to make it a full bed and we extended the length of the legs to allow for 48" clearance underneath.

We also went with a rock wall instead of a ladder. I 1st built the angle too steep; recommend at least a 30 degree angle on a wall. Kid's love it; mom not so much when attempting to make the bed! :)

We went with military theme - green rope lights, camo netting for a roof, and sandbags filled with old clothes from my high school years for a bunker underneath.

Great project! Thanks for the idea!

jvuijk

Sat, 03/15/2014 - 14:09

I repeatedly see "PH screws" listed in the plan.

Does this require something like the Kreg Jig I have seen in other plans?

Cacheturtle

Wed, 05/28/2014 - 17:28

I bought my lumber from Home Depot. The boos for both sides look like they are ruff cut. Did you sand each cut piece before attaching sides together? Also, where were the slats attached? Was it in the center of the 2x2, front, or back?

Building Momma'

Sat, 11/08/2014 - 17:07

Was a 50 pack of  2-1/2" Pocket Hole Screws enough or should I get 2 or 3 or more packs?

How Much wood filler should I purchase? Quart? Pint? ½ pint?

And I was wondering about how much stain would I need? Or if I go with paint, how much paint would I need?

Building Momma'

Sun, 11/09/2014 - 16:30

I have noticed that pretty much everyone has carpet.|
But I do not. We have Hard Ceramic Tiles throughout the whole Appartment.|
I was wondering if this type of bed would be safe (or what ever) on hard ceramic tile floors?|
I'm thinking of putting carpet just under the area under it. Would this be wise? or no?

I would most likely just buy some low-cost carpet from Home Depot from the rolls they have there. If i should do this will i need to also purchase something else to put between the carpet and tile?
or would maybe just a throw rug for my boys comfort but not under the legs of the bed be good?
i'm goign to use Bolts to attach all four sides together and i'm goign to change the size of the side pieces to fit two crib/todler matresses long ways [ i guess you would say]. And ofcorse change the slats a bit in that 16 inch opening which will now be the space between the boys matresses and undewr there mattresses put some thin plywood or something to keep the mattresses from falling through the slat openings.

Also I will be raising the space under the bunk area up 8 to 12 inches and reducing the upper Club house area about the same amount.

But also will be adding 3 boards on each side and back legs about lower to mid way up for a bit more sturdiness and Also addign a attached book case/ toy storage shelf across one side under the bunk part.

I had a great idea [well i think so] to have the forward facing side of the book shelf be a Surfboard Cut out. And to make it a Little Batman & Spiderman theme I would Paint the top half of the Surfbioard Book Shelf Side Blatman Logo and the Bottom Spiderman Logo for the Boys. Can't afford nor have the room for 2 beds ( hehehehehehe) So i'm praying this is Do able for the Boys to not only think i'm the coolest Mom Ever but to also have thigns neater and more space from my two little Monkey Butts?

So what do ya'll think? The Book Shelf on the side that will be close to the  wall and every thing will ti be good and ok on Hard ceramic flooring? 

Thank You inadvance for any help ya'll can give me.

z2angelic

Mon, 04/13/2015 - 20:27

Looking at making this for my sun this summer. Don't really have any wood working experience so I'm a major noob. Is this for a standard sized twin bed? Also if we wanted to make it a little higher (like 48" underneath) but keeping the overall height the same how would we do it or is it better to not try?