Free plans to build a Farmhouse Table. This table has been built tens of thousands of times and is loved the world over for it's basic material composition, simple clean lines, easy to build steps, and sturdy, functional size. Our step by step plans with diagrams make it easy.
This plan uses pocket holes and is the updated plan. We also have this plan available to build without pocket holes.
Built by Hillary at The Friendly Home, we upgraded the farmhouse table for pocket hole joinery (no visibile fasteners) and easier construction.
Hillary made this table with pocket holes instead of adding the 2x2 supports as done in the original plan, saving a ton of cuts and holes to be drilled, which saves time and money.
Also, by using pocket holes, we hide most all of the screw holes, so a beautiful stained finish like Hillary's is very easy to do.
The easy to do pocket hole plan follows if you want to build this table.
And as always, Hillary delivers a beautiful finish, and you can get all the details on how Hillary finished her table here. I love the stain color and will have to try it as well!
PS - Don't have a pocket hole jig? Here's the original Farmhouse Table Plans.
PSS - Have trouble finding 4x4s? Check out this beginner friendly 2 Tool/$50 Farmhouse Table plans
Preparation
- 4 - 2x4 @ 8 feet long
- 1 - 4x4 @ 10 feet long
- 4 - 2x8 @ 6 feet long
- 1 - 2x8 @ 8 feet long (breadboard ends)
- 1 - 2x10 @ 6 feet long
- 4 - 4x4 posts @ 29" (legs)
- 2 - 2x4 @ 67" (long aprons)
- 2 - 2x4 @ 27" (short aprons)
- 1 - 2x4 @ 74" (stretcher)
- 2 - 2x4 @ 34" (stretcher supports)
- 4 - 2x8 @ 70.5" (table top planks)
- 1 - 2x10@ 70-1/2" (center table top plank -- I had to use one 2x10 to get the right overall width)
- 2 - 2x8 ~38" (breadboard ends -- measure your joined tabletop before cutting these)
Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!
Instructions
Step 1
First, cut and notch out the 4x4s. If you can get your home improvement store to make square cuts, ask them to cut your 4x4s. Otherwise, you'll need a 12" (maybe a 10" will work too) miter saw or set your circular saw to the deepest possible cut. Cut one side, flip the 4x4 and finish the cut on the bottom side. Sand until cut is smooth. You'll probably add cork or felt pads under the legs later on to level table up and protect your floor.
Then notch out the stretcher joint as shown in diagram. Definitely practice first on a scrap if you can. This is easier to do than it looks - just be sure to get the top and bottom cut right, and it will all work out!
Step 2
Notch out the stretcher support board first, then attach to the 4x4s. Remember the screws will show here, so drill in pattern. Use 3" screws to attach.
Do both ends.
Step 3
Then add your top aprons with 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.
NOT SHOWN: Drill 1 1/2" pocket holes on the insides of your aprons facing upward for later attaching the the tabletop too. Drill three holes per end apron.
Step 4
Now attach the two ends together to create your table frame.
NOT SHOWN: Drill 1 1/2" pocket holes on the insides of your aprons facing upward for later attaching the the tabletop too. Drill five holes per side apron.
Step 5
Attach base stretcher with pocket holes underneath.
Step 6
Now start building your tabletop.
Step 7
Measure and cut your breadboard ends to fit and attach to tabletop.
Step 8
Then attach the base to the tabletop through predrilled 1 1/2" pocket holes with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.
It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Comments
tabrewington
Tue, 08/02/2016 - 13:54
What do u think max length could be
Do you think this could be stretched to 10 or 12ft without any issues
smith8ar
Fri, 08/12/2016 - 06:57
Where buy wood???
Where are you guys buying your wood? I just got a quote from a local lumber yard for the wood needed for this in Ash and they quoted me at $1500! But you guys are talking about only spending a couple hundred at most. Where are you getting the wood and what type are you getting???
rwglink
Mon, 10/03/2016 - 02:03
فیزیوتراپی در منزل
very good
فیزیوتراپی در دنیای امروزه یکی از روش های درمان می باشد که در آن اغلب از روش های غیر دارویی و غیر جراحی استفده می شود.
بعضی از بیماران به خاطر بیماری های همچون بیماری های مغز و اعصاب ، سکته مغزی ، بیماران ارتوپدیک و همچنین به خاطر سن بالا ، جراحی های سنگین و عوارض بیمارستانی ، قادر به مراجعه حضوری به مراکز فیزیوتراپی نیستند که در چنین مواردی بهترین راه حل برای این بیماران استفاده از خدمات فیزیوتراپی در منزل می باشد.
در صورتی که بیمار شما قابلیت حرکتی ندارد و قادر به خروج از منزل نیست ، می توانید از خدمات فیزیوتراپی در منزل مرکز توانبخشی ایرانیان استفاده کنید. مرکز توانبخشی ایرانیان با ارائه خدمات توانبخشی در منزل و فیزیوتراپی در منزل ، آسایش و آرامش را برای همراهان بیمار و خود بیمار فراهم می آورد.
توانبخشی در منزل یا بازتوانی در منزل روش و فرآیندی است که به فرد کمک می شود تا توانایی های را که بر اثر واقعه ، بیماری یا آسیب از دست داده است و باعث محدودیت عملکرد وی شده را دوباره بدست آورد.
مرکز توانبخشی ایرانیان ارائه دهنده خدمات فیزیوتراپی در منزل و توانبخشی در منزل به صورت شبانه روزی ، آسایش و آرامش را برای بیمار و همراهان او فراهم می آورد.
ClayDorris10
Tue, 11/01/2016 - 11:39
Bent and bowed
I went to screw the table top together and the boards are now twited and bending. What is the best and fastest way to level the boards out?
Jeanne624
Sun, 12/11/2016 - 09:57
I accidentally clicked on This is Spam button for my comment!!
Hi Everyone -
Thanks, Ana, for these fabulous plans. I just finished building my first farmhouse table! All on my own!
Now I need to stain.
But I do have some tiny separations in between my boards on the top.
Should I fill that with wood filler?
Do I put the wood filler in the "knots"?
Should I do the wood filler before the final sanding?
Thanks in advance. I just have come this far - I don't want to mess it up now!
Jeanne
schaffnern
Mon, 12/26/2016 - 13:45
Cost?
Can any give me a cost for this table? I know the older plans said $30-$50. Is that still around the same?
Also, is there a count for how many of each different screw I will need?
joedamato7@gmail.com
Sat, 02/18/2017 - 20:07
question
Hi - I'm about to start making this table :)
Quick question: since there are strecher supports at the ends of the table, is there room for your feet and chair to comfortably get close enough to the table? I'm thinking of making the base of the table shorter so there is more room for people to sit on the ends and have enought room for their legs? Does that makes sense!
Jrollins7
Mon, 02/27/2017 - 09:31
Stain
What stain did you use on this table
Aaron_n
Mon, 01/08/2018 - 17:48
Quick question
Can this table be built without the stretcher and bottom apron? Or will it make it less sturdy
Crabbman
Tue, 01/16/2018 - 09:14
Pocket Holes
On the breadboard ends, I would recommend not driving the pocket hole screws into the end grain. This is not how they are designed and will loosen over time. You can simply flip them around so they go OUT of the end grain and INTO the bread board.