Full Storage (Captains) Bed

Submitted by Ana White on Sun, 05/19/2019 - 20:54
Difficulty
Beginner
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You can build a simple storage bed to elevate a mattress and provide extra storage with these simple plans. Featuring six large, wide cubbies, perfect for fabric bins, toys, or even books and games. This bed has a cubby depth of 12".

This plan is also the base plan for the twin sized modification. You can see all the project plans in this collection here. Special thanks to Amy and Steve for sharing their amazing photos with us.

storage bed headboard
Dimensions
storage bed full size woodworking plans
Fits standard full size mattress. Top platform height if 15".

Preparation

Shopping List
  • 6 – 1×12 Boards, 8′ Long (Most economical for stain grade is pine (like the PBTEEN stained bed, and also would work great for painting. You could also use sheets of MDF cut into 1x12s, but you would need to purchase two whole sheets of plywood and only use up 1 1/2 sheets)
  • 1 – Sheet of 1/4″ Plywood cut into 15″ wide strips, 8′ long
  • 6 – 1×2 Boards, 8′ Long (For paint grade, 1×2 Pine Furring Strips would work for about $1.00 each)
  • 5 – 1×3 Boards, 8′ Long (1×3 Pine Furring Strips are about $1.50 Each and would work perfect)
  • 2″ Screws
  • 1 1/4″ Screws
  • 1 1/4″ Nails (optional if you have a nailer handy)
  • 2″ Nails (optional if you have a nailer handy)
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
Common Materials
120 grit sandpaper
primer
wood conditioner
paint
paint brush
Cut List

CUT LIST FOR THE BOXES

  • 6 – 1×12 @ 15″ (Cubby Sides)
  • 3 – 1×12 @ 12 3/4″ (Cubby Dividers)
  • 2 – 1×12 @ 54″ (End Cubby Top and Bottoms)
  • 4 – 1×12 @ 62″ (Side Cubby Top and Bottoms)

 

CUT LISTS FOR THE TRIM

  • 6 – 1×2 @ 12″ (Vertical Trim)
  • 2 – 1×2 @ 55 1/2″ (End Top and Bottom Trim)
  • 4 – 1×2 @ 63 1/2″ (Side Top and Bottom Trim)

 

CUT LIST FOR THE CENTER SUPPORT

  • 2 – 1×3 @ 63 1/2″ (Cleats)
  • 11 – 1×3 @ 30 1/2″ (Slats)
Tools
Tape Measure
Speed Square
Pencil
Hammer
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Drill
Brad Nailer
Power Sander
General Instructions

So if you read my blog long enough, you already know that to get a square project, you gotta work on a square surface with square boards. And you also need to check for square after each step. Predrill and countersink your screws. If you are working with MDF, use drywall screws and make sure you drill a pilot hole the entire length of your screw hole to keep your MDF from blowing apart. Be safe, have fun!

Instructions

Step 1

You will need to build one end cubby.

Step 2

And two side cubbies.

Step 3

Put the back on the end cubby with nails and glue. Don't forget to nail into the center partition as well.

For both backs: You can have the lumber store “rip” your 1/4″ plywood into 15″ wide strips so they are easier to manage, can be hauled in a car, and all you have to do is make a single chop. Have the plywood ripped into 3 – 15″ wide x 8′ long strips. Then cut your plywood for the backs of the end and two for the side cubbies. Use 1 1/4″ nails and glue to fasten in place.

Step 4

Do the same for the side cubbies.

Step 5

Step 6

Trim for the side cubbies.

Step 7

CLEATS
Use the 2″ screws and glue to fasten cleats to the backs of the side cubbies only.

Step 8

SLATS
Lay the slats on top of the cleats, as shown above. Screw in place. Don’t use glue so dissemblance will be a cinch. Also screw the end cubby to the side cubbies ( a couple of blots with washers and nuts would be your best option to keep everything together over time (and make dissemblance a cinch)

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill any holes with wood filler (overfill) and let dry. Start sanding with coarse sandpaper and work your way to fine. Vacuum with a soft bristled brush. For paint grade, prime and apply multiple coats of paint. I always paint the insides first, then the outsides and finally the trim. For stain grade, you may wish to apply a wood conditioner first, then stain, and finally finish with a varnish or polyurethane sealant.
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Comments

Crystal (not verified)

Thu, 05/20/2010 - 07:16

Ana- is it possible to use the slats instead of plywood boards on the Queen size as well?

Ana White (not verified)

Thu, 05/20/2010 - 07:23

Thank you all, I'm really liking this simple more economical design, for those of you okay with no drawer possibilities and not so deep cubbies.

Yes, you could definitely do the slats for the king and queen beds.

Michelle (not verified)

Thu, 05/20/2010 - 12:38

YAY! This is so awesome! My husband and I are always looking for better ways to add storage to our space. This would be perfect. We LOVE LOVE LOVE your site. Thanks for all you do!

Miranda (not verified)

Thu, 05/20/2010 - 15:00

This is awesome and just what I've been looking for along with the corner unit. Can you give tips on how to make this with drawers? I'm putting my 3 boys in a bonus space that has sloped ceilings and not enough space for dressers too. I'm planning to make a U shape with them, but need drawers. Thanks!

Katie Seamons (not verified)

Thu, 05/20/2010 - 17:16

What kind of putty is everybody using? We tried elmers and it seemed to dry super fast. Is there a better brand?

marcie (not verified)

Thu, 05/20/2010 - 21:46

I made the Queen stratton for my 4yr old/guest bed as needed, it turned out great. its very humid here and I have a memory foam mattress so to get airflow to the mattress I drilled some holes in the tops of the cubbies.to answer the question of using slats on the queen size I followed the plans but used 2x2's spaced closer together and just left off the plywood topper. it seemed strong. for adults I would maybe use
2x4s for added strength