Kendal Extra Wide Dresser

Submitted by Ana White on Mon, 03/24/2014 - 10:42
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Build your own dresser. Free plans from Ana-White.com

Are you anxiously awaiting news of baby Sew Woodsy's arrival???  

ME TOO!!!

For those of you who have no idea what I'm talking about, our good friends Katie and John from Sew Woodsy are expecting their first baby any time now!  

And to prepare for the new baby's arrival, Katie and John wanted to build nursery furniture.  I'm so thrilled and honored that they turned to me for plans!

First up, an extra wide dresser for the wee one!

I love how simple this dresser is, but with so much storage!  

Katie and John did an awesome job sharing their whole building process with LOTS of photos and building tips, so take a second to check out their building post!  

It's a must read!

And of course, plans follow - check them out below!

XO Ana + Fam

PS - Love the board and batten?

Check out Sew Woodsy's Video Tutorial here!

Dimensions
Dimensions shown above

Preparation

Shopping List

1 - sheet of 3/4” plywood, ripped into strips 15-1/2” wide (you’ll only use up about 1/2 of this plywood, but the 15-1/2” wide strips can be used for a variety of other projects or as shelving)
3 - 2x2 @ 8 feet long
3 - 2x4s or 1x4s (these are the back supports) @ 6 feet long
2 - 1x2 @ 6 feet long
6 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long
2 - 1x8 @ 8 feet long (IMPORTANT: Plan assumes 1x8s are 7-1/4” wide)
1 - sheet 1/4” plywood for back
7 - 16” euro drawer slides
4 right and 4 left rear mount sockets to match drawer slides
7 knobs or handles
1-1/4” and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws

Common Materials
Cut List

2 - 3/4” plywood @ 15-1/2” x 26-1/4” (side panels)
4 - 2x2 @ 31-1/4” (legs)
2 - 2x2 @ 49-1/2” (back support and bottom support)
3 - 2x4 @ 49-1/2” (back supports) USE 1x4s here if you are using rear mount sockets for the drawer slides
3 - 1x2 @ 49-1/2” (front trim)
4 - 1x2 @ 7-1/2” (front trim between drawers vertically)
1 - 2x2 @ 15-1/2” (bottom support) If you used 1x4s on back, this board must be 3/4” longer in length

DRAWERS - CUT TO FIT!!!
Plan uses 1x6 for drawer boxes and 1x8 for drawer faces

TOP
1 - 3/4” plywood @ 15-1/2” x 54-1/2”
1 - 1x2 @ 54-1/2”
1 - 1x3 @ 54-1/2”

BACK
52-1/2” x 26-1/4”

General Instructions

Please read through the entire plan and all comments before beginning this project. It is also advisable to review the Getting Started Section. Take all necessary precautions to build safely and smartly. Work on a clean level surface, free of imperfections or debris. Always use straight boards. Check for square after each step. Always predrill holes before attaching with screws. Use glue with finish nails for a stronger hold. Wipe excess glue off bare wood for stained projects, as dried glue will not take stain. Be safe, have fun, and ask for help if you need it. Good luck!

Instructions

Step 1

Start by building the two sides. Everything is flush to inside.

Step 2

Join the two sides together with the back support boards. For rear mount drawer slide sockets, the sockets will attach to these boards.

NOTE: To give the rear mount sockets a little extra room, I recommend using 1x4s instead of the 2x4s here, keep them flush to the back. The 2x2 on top should be fine.

Step 3

Attach front boards, these will trim out drawer openings.

You may wish to add the vertical dividers first (from next step)

Step 4

If you use pocket holes, you may need to use a right angle drill for attaching as it will be tight, or attach vertical dividers in previous step.

Step 5

Step 6

Drawers should be built to fit the openings per drawer slide recommendations. Each drawer measured just to make sure there is no variance between drawers openings. Drawer boxes should be 1x6 or 1x4. 1/4” plywood is used on bottom with glue, nailed on, if using euro drawer slides (they fit the bottom corner so weight transfers from plywood directly to the slide).

Step 7

Drawers are installed 3/4” inset to allow for the drawer faces.

Rear mount sockets are only needed on the drawers sides that in the center - on the sides, just attach the drawer slide directly to the side of the cabinet.

Step 8

Cut drawer faces to fit, leave an 1/8” gap on all sides. Attach to drawer boxes with finish nails and glue.

TIP: You may wish to install the drawer pulls first.

Step 9

Build top and attach to top of dresser.

Alternatively, the ends can also be finished by cutting short and adding 1x2s. For a paint finish, the plywood end can filled, sanded and painted.

Step 10

Attach back with glue and finish nails.

Finishing Instructions
Preparation Instructions
Fill all holes with wood filler and let dry. Apply additional coats of wood filler as needed. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum sanded project to remove sanding residue. Remove all sanding residue on work surfaces as well. Wipe project clean with damp cloth.

It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. Use primer or wood conditioner as needed.
Help Improve This Plan

We apologize if there was an error in this plan. Please help us out and report any errors here.

Project Type
Room

Comments

natepeterman

Mon, 01/05/2015 - 12:04

We just found out were having a Baby Boy. This will be on my build list in the coming weeks

Lavenbaby

Fri, 03/13/2015 - 22:35

My husband and I are expecting a baby girl this summer and we want to make this dresser and also use it as a changing table. The only problem is my husband is 6'4 so this is a little short for him. My son's dresser is 58.5"x40"x19.5" and its a good size. How do we adjust all the measurements to make the dresser taller? Thanks!

lawschr

Wed, 04/22/2015 - 10:12

I am in the middle of building one of these for my little girls and it's coming together nicely. The only problem I am having is the shopping list for the 1x2 boards doesn't give enough for the project!!! Instead of 2-1x2 @ 6ft at least 4 boards will be needed. I can't wait until it is complete.

ScottBuilds

Tue, 06/02/2015 - 19:21

Really nice looking piece. Brand new baby showing up late July, so I've got to start on this soon. Looks like a fairly straight forward build. I'm just wondering if anyone has thoughts on the following:

* How strong is this? I haven't actually gone to Pottery Barn, but the online description of their product looks like it's also just plywood. I'm wondering specifically about using drawer slides on the face frames and how much weight can be handled. I suppose if I use Oak, which is fairly strong for the frame, that would be tough; though a bit more expensive than pine or similar.

* Does anyone assemble drawers after actually installing the sliders? I know that regardless of plans, it's always smart to do the drawers last just in case something is off by 1/32" or something, but I recently saw where someone actually put the sliders in and then measured for the drawers. Anyone do this? I'm going to use a dovetail jig to build the drawers, so don't want to screw them up.

* Anyone try building with a kickplate all the way to the floor? (Idea is no vacuuming, no hassle, no dog losing tennis balls underneath, etc.) I think it might look like garbage, though I guess I could try it first.

Thanks for any time!

ScottBuilds

Fri, 07/17/2015 - 10:13

Hi,

Alright... so ignore my questions in last post. I just went and built it!

I posted it in project brags, but I'm not sure how that works and I don't see it. Maybe needs to be approved? Anyway, my experience doing this is here.

This is a great project and I really apprecaite these plans having been here. No way I would have attempted this from my own designs.